DMF, Clutch and gearbox bearing

rizzini7

rizzini7

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Oh happy days!
Found the route of my recent bad running. We're 99% its the DMF showing up as misfires and camshaft sensor faults. Also been told I've for a gearbox bearing on its way out. So looking at parts wise
£510ish for gearbox repair
£340 for DMF
£290 for clutch
£30-40???? Oil
Approx £300 labour taking out and refitting.

Can't decide wether to take the hit and get it done or see what it's worth trade in. And spend the cash on something else.
Could get the work done then find the camshaft issue is more serious. Cars now hit 96k and in theory supposed to last me another 3yrs before its paid off. Although I could change cars and run into similar issues.
Plus I haven't a clue how much its worth trade either. Suppose that always depends what you want.

Opinions??
 
It is alot of money to spend in one lump sum but the clutch and flywheel will need replacing on any vehicle at some point. Besides you've got a lovely looking car!
 
rizzini7 said:
Oh happy days!
Found the route of my recent bad running. We're 99% its the DMF showing up as misfires and camshaft sensor faults. Also been told I've for a gearbox bearing on its way out. So looking at parts wise
£510ish for gearbox repair
£340 for DMF
£290 for clutch
£30-40???? Oil
Approx £300 labour taking out and refitting.

Can't decide wether to take the hit and get it done or see what it's worth trade in. And spend the cash on something else.
Could get the work done then find the camshaft issue is more serious. Cars now hit 96k and in theory supposed to last me another 3yrs before its paid off. Although I could change cars and run into similar issues.
Plus I haven't a clue how much its worth trade either. Suppose that always depends what you want.

Opinions??
Click to expand...

Fix it but don't assume the prices are fixed, my guess is it will be more expensive.................
 
Ouch man that's real bad luck, I'd say fix because chances are not much cash will come without repairs. Plus the hassle of converting back to standard or losing paid extra's. Either way it's cash down the pan, sum up which option is financially sensible.
 
lukey baby said:
It is alot of money to spend in one lump sum but the clutch and flywheel will need replacing on any vehicle at some point. Besides you've got a lovely looking car!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'd been thinking those were on the way out for a while so was expecting it at some point. Just didn't need the gearbox issue as well. Luckily a mate got good prices for the DMF and clutch. Although I think I can get the clutch cheaper from Tps but not the flywheel as that was £530ish + vat.

I do like the car so probably gonna bite the bullet and risk repairing it. And fingers crossed the camshaft issue goes as well.


Only estimated price is the gearbox repair. My mate said he'll do the labour (fit and remove the lot) for £300. Gearbox place said they'd do labour for £250ish but not sure that included fitting clutch and DMF
 
audi upgrades
Good luck, fingers crossed that all goes well for you! :icon_thumright:
 
Lets hope. Hopefully it is just a bearing on the gearbox. Thats the main worry at the moment as could end up costing loads if its not. Will keep updated.
 
rizzini7 said:
Lets hope. Hopefully it is just a bearing on the gearbox. Thats the main worry at the moment as could end up costing loads if its not. Will keep updated.
Click to expand...

You could always get a box from a breakers ?
Current price for a B7 Manual is circa £350.
 
rizzini7 said:
Thought about it, but couldn't find any same code. Then run the risk of a dud
Click to expand...


I believe all modern day breakers offer a limited guarantee so even if a second hand unit should be a duffer they would swap it or refund the cost of the unit. Todays breakers are in general not the vagabonds we used to deal with twenty-thirty years ago. Its all quite reputable these days.
Good luck with the car.
 
audi upgrades
Paul B7 said:
Fix it but don't assume the prices are fixed, my guess is it will be more expensive.................
Click to expand...

You're probably right. Got this e-mail from transmission place:

"The price to overhaul of the gearbox will be approx £425 and to remove and
refit the unit is £250. Both prices are plus vat.
As soon as the the gearbox has been dismantled and inspected we will ring to
confirm our findings and give you the final costings."

That just shouting out its gonna cost more to me. Although the bloke that took the car out said it didn't seem to bad. But obviously as my DMF is shot I thought it would be stupid not to do the gearbox as well as its not exactly a 5 min job to get to and the constant whine at 50+mph is getting annoying now

Managed to order clutch for £193 plus vat+ £20 surcharge. Oil is £11 a litre (probably plus vat). Both from Tps with discount
Then my mates ordering the DMF from where ever he uses as Tps was £530ish plus vat :) for the same as my mates getting for £340ish. Yet the clutch was more for him to get? What a rip off.

Then once its all back together I'm hoping the camshaft adjuster isn't naff as I think they were around £700each last time I looked.
It just faults slow to response or out of range. And the odd misfire that never happened. (Assume its the engine mounts doing their job)
So hoping its when the DMF makes the whole car shakes its just throwing whines off balance.

Needless to say the misses has put a ban on my spontaneous purchases for the near future :(. Although she lucked out on the playstation 4 as that's already on preorder
 
rizzini7 said:
Needless to say the misses has put a ban on my spontaneous purchases for the near future :(.
Click to expand...

Hahah, this!

I am on the naughty step right now as it was my own, clueless tinkering that led to my ECU going for a swim. I am now under strict instructions to cease and desist from any hands-on vehicular intervention that goes beyond fuelling, driving and cleaning.
 
rizzini7 said:
Just got e-mail back confirming the £300 labour also covers fitting the new parts. Result
Click to expand...

So what does that give you as a likely overall bill for all the parts and labour to get the car back to health?
 
Last edited:
They charge £300 labour to remove and refit the gearbox. However they've told me they'll fit the clutch and DMF in that price as well. So at least I know how much the labour is. Plus hopefully that will then be covered with the warranty they give. It's just the gearbox repair that's variable in price depending on what needs doing.

So in all I'm hoping its gonna be a grand total of around £1500 :(. Really wish I'd put some cash away for the DMF and clutch as I knew it was going to need doing at some point in the near future.
 
rizzini7 said:
They charge £300 labour to remove and refit the gearbox. However they've told me they'll fit the clutch and DMF in that price as well. So at least I know how much the labour is. Plus hopefully that will then be covered with the warranty they give. It's just the gearbox repair that's variable in price depending on what needs doing.

So in all I'm hoping its gonna be a grand total of around £1500 :(. Really wish I'd put some cash away for the DMF and clutch as I knew it was going to need doing at some point in the near future.
Click to expand...

It could be worse.......................
 
Fingers crossed for you Mucker....when you weigh it up, apart from a full engine build it is probably the most expensive job you can fear to do on an Audi engine. Look on the bright side, it should fix all your issues and give you may 000's of miles before tinkering with it again. Still a bit unsure about this "engine bearing" you mention. Good luck Matey.

BR
A
 
Well it's back and still playing up on the drive home :(. They changed the pinion bearings but not the one that's faulty. My mechanic said its the did one and for some reason they didn't pick up on it. Have e-mailed them so will see what happens. Also the idle judder started again. On the plus side feels much better and shifts better with new clutch and DMF. Just a shame the main issue isn't sorted
 
audi upgrades
sorry to hear that, what else have you had done/changed with the car prior to the dmf etc?
 
Hoping its still a wiring issue. Had someone change my electric fan and they messed up some of the wiring. And this issue has been since then. My mechanic has been over the wiring a fixed most of the problems that arose. I'll run it a few days now and hope the CEL light comes on a records some faults again. Previously it kept bringing up misfire and camshaft sensor. But was put down to the DMF throwing the engine balance all over the place
 
lukey baby said:
sorry to hear that, what else have you had done/changed with the car prior to the dmf etc?
Click to expand...

Latest scan mate:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06E-910-559-BKH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 910 559 Q HW: 8E0 907 559
Component and/or Version: 3.2l V6 FSI 0020
Software Coding: 010C0003180F0118
Work Shop Code: WSC 66565 257 00032
VCID: 3B7378807A6DC4C6811-806E
4 Faults Found:
000013 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 2 Exhaust)
P000D - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 8
Mileage: 154759 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2144 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 332.5 mg/str
Temperature: 82.5°C
Part Throttle
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Steering Angle: -84.00°
000913 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G301)
P0391 - 006 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 35
Mileage: 154813 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 736 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 136.3 mg/str
Temperature: 84.0°C
Idle
Bin. Bits: 00010000
Speed: 0.0 km/h
012410 - Air Intake System
P307A - 009 - Flow too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 31
Mileage: 155183 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 736 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 81.8 mg/str
Temperature: 88.5°C
Idle
Voltage: 14.28 V
Speed: 0.0 km/h
000104 - MAP/MAF <-> Throttle Position Correlation
P0068 - 007 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000010
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 30
Mileage: 155183 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 704 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 81.8 mg/str
Temperature: 88.5°C
Idle
Voltage: 14.18 V
Bin. Bits: 00000010

Readiness: 0000 0000
 
Now taking a look at this. Just checked measured value block 90 - 98 to check the camshaft adjustment angles and they're all reading spot on to the requested values at the moment. I'm sure bank 2 exhaust cam was reading 30 degs out of spec last time you came in for a check. Basic settings on the adjusters is coming back as system ok as well which makes it hard to diagnose.
I'm thinking N319 is faulty and not adjusting bank 2 exhaust cam, this throws the P000D which in turn logs P0024 as the cam hasn't reached it's set value and P0391 cam position sensor is logged as implausible signal meaning the sensor is working but the signal isn't being seen at the ECU at the expected time. I'll have to keep running it until it faults and then run guided fault finding on ODIS to confirm the wiring and power supply is ok from the ECU to N319. Just typing this up while reading the cam values waiting for it to fault. ;) Cheers, Andy.
 
Cheers, got it to fault today, it is a problem with N319. The exhaust cam adjuster isn't returning to normal position fast enough and sometimes sticks open. Going to price up a valve. I've tried clearing the solenoid with a 12V pulse as this will sometimes free them off and you wont get the code back but no joy with this one. I'll see if you can get the valve separately as I've replaced them on W8's before and it's a complete housing.
 
Last edited:
Cheers mate, as for the whine. Your sure it's the tyres. If so where's the best place to get it done? I'm now wondering if it's out because my mate may of dropped the subframe when changing the oil pump
 
Morning, replaced N319 and carried out basic settings on the inlet an exhaust cams from cold start and all the adjusters return to zero instantly now. Roadtested for 15 mins stop start driving and a couple of full throttles and it all looks ok.
The droning comes in from 40mph and looking at the tyres the inside tread is shaped like a fifty pence piece so I'm pretty confident with a decent set of tyres the bearing noise will go. MK5 golfs had a TPI regarding Bridgestone tyres doing this on the rear after too many warranty claims for rear wheel bearings were being made. The camber would mostv likely be out at the front if the subframe's been off without fitting allignment pins first. As your 30mm lowered the negative camber will be more than stock but can only be equalized on the front as far as I'm aware. It's adjustable independently on the rear so anyone with a proper four wheel aligner could set it up for you. We're a new business so can't afford to invest in one yet.
 
audi upgrades
Never googled it, had a bulletin come round when I was at VW and don't see it that often when servicing any more. Seems more to do with tread pattern than the car, tyres with smaller blocks on the outer tread don't seem to do it.
 
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