on the pack it says 'VW AG' then some part numbers then 's3'???
Do things right first time round.. I gathered tons of info by reading tuffty's, prawns, Andrews, superkarls, jardo's(yes.. Jardo!!), westy's dani's etc.. All (and more) have the best info you could possibly want.. My thread mearly shows what happens when you read and do correctly which is why I got such a good map from bill! Lovely power, lots of torque (which was Pegged down). Even JASON PLATO loves my car as he's driven it!
AmD Tuning: AMD STAGE 2 UPGRADE
Part Number: AMDMAPKO3SS2
This is an upgrade from stage 1
Stage 2 includes.
* Remaping to suit the upgrades fitted to the car
* Also Dyno time for setting up and fine tuning
* Gains of 10-15% over the Stage 1 map
Allows the use of a full exhaust including De-Cat or Sports-Cat without the ECU throwing an Engine Check Light.
Required Hardware
* Turbo back exhaust without pre-cat and either decat or highflow catalytic convertor (Millteksport system recommended)
* Cold Air intake (Pippercross panel filter Or Cold Air Induction Kit)
* Uprated DV (recirculating diverter valve)
* Also for the car to be running on good fuel 97-99ron
* 4 bar pressure regulator
Optional Hardware
* Uprated Engine Mounts
* Uprated Transmission Mounts
* Uprated or Additional Intercooler
*** just tell AMD to remove their prehistoric map and give you a refund. Then drive to either Stonehouse or Hinkley and get a real map with proper advise and a car that will leave in full working order and without the need to mess about with going back to amend spikes!!!
Or was it a bit off an accident lol!-)
Thanks jojo, have You got a hadlex controller To get that sideways?
There's nothing wrong with prehistoric AmD maps, and they respond well to B5 3" TIP also, my car is proof of that!
Thanks jojo, have You got a hadlex controller To get that sideways?
1. Lift off the throttle
2. Chuck her into a corner at some speed
3. Let the R32 Rear ARB do it's work
I read people jump off bridges too, should we all do that?people on other turbo car forums run their boost solinoids on the cold side for a more stable pressure to help combat spiking... im gonna try it, only a 5 min job. cant do any harm right?
will it be ok to plug the n75 charge pipe connection and run it off a 'T' on the pipe out off the top of the throttle body (the one that goes up to the firewall then to the carbon canister) for a more stable feed?
I read people jump off bridges too, should we all do that?
I cannot see any difference in what you are doing. Your car has been incorrectly mapped and you are trying to fudge your way around it.
what?
its not going to be any less stable.. NOT that stable is the issue...
choose a different point for boost source and it will effect what level of boost is going to be passed to n75/actuator... Closer to turbo higher the boost.
map is spike or malfunctioning n75
I think you read too much on tinterweb and get 2+2=5
Stop messing about with stuff or you'll end up making it worse. Just get the pipe amd have recommended then take it back to them and get them to sort it out.
the n75 is a genuine f valve and 6 months old, i replaced it when trying to sort the overboost issues you helped me with bill.
i really think its the map now like you say, even though moving the n75 feed seems to have helped with the spike. it was something that the s13 boys used to do back in the day, a close friend knows all there is to know about s13s and was a forum whore a few years ago, he suggested it. i done some googling and i thought it was worth a go. in your opinion is less spike is better...?
im not talking about a perminant fix, the n75 will be plumbed normally for the return visit to amd on saturday and i'll be asking them to map it out but for the time being 1.5/1.6 bar is better than 1.6/1.7.
how do you know its incorrectly mapped mate in all honesty you dont even know the car, are you assuming everything on my car was ready for that much boost cause the coilpacks certainly werent! it could be multiple things causing a boost spike like others have suggested n75, also air leaks, dodgy turbo, sticking actuator ect, have you even read the full thread?
you come rolling in with one word answers and generally being no help what so ever so why are you commenting lol?
lol, because you dont know about it its fudging it is it, please.... i dont just read one random post and take it as gospel!-) the sudden pressure right next to the turbo when it comes on boost is obviously going to be reduced once its gone through all that pipework! and for your info ive been out and about since my post earlier and the car is running better all round tbh, i never saw more than 1.6 mostly running straight to 1.5 and staying put! its obviously had some effect!