S3 engine help

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s3_sid

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Hi guys some of you may already know I have issues with my s3 and wounder ing where the thread went well I had to remove it as instructed by his soliciters to stop then taking legal action against me ! Any how

iv got the car back from the garage and I'v just check the cam follower which is showing signs of ware but not to bad or so I don't think !! I have taken a pic if the metal debris to show you it blocking the chain tensioner

Now their no metal that I can see around inside of the head around the cams although the lobes arnt warn they are scored on where they sit on the head if you get my drift

Now I don't know if the fuel pump has failed before and just been repairs on the cheap before I got it which is probably by best bet but what would be your course of action to clean it all up ?

Cheers in advance guys !
 

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To be on the safe side mate I would change the HPFP and do the cam follower as a matter of course which is what your supposed to do when the fuel pump is changed anyway. Either look at Autotech internals or go the whole hog and plump for the Loba item with cam follower
 
Yeah but I have more of the issue of metal in the oil galaries that I need to adress before it takes out an engine part what's you normal protocol with a conpltley failed fuel pump follower ?
 
s3_sid said:
Yeah but I have more of the issue of metal in the oil galaries that I need to adress before it takes out an engine part what's you normal protocol with a conpltley failed fuel pump follower ?
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It does need to be stripped down and flushed out.

If there is any wear,scoring,or bits of metal you haven't found,then it's trouble waiting.
 
Yeah I had suspicions Alex just would have been nice not to have to do it !! Got a local fella lined up who builds rally engines but he dosent know the enge that well so cannt say how much it will cost to strip and rebuild it
 
s3_sid said:
Yeah I had suspicions Alex just would have been nice not to have to do it !! Got a local fella lined up who builds rally engines but he dosent know the enge that well so cannt say how much it will cost to strip and rebuild it
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I can understand,but it needs to be done and a good engine builder should be able to pick out the problems.
 
Another way is to flush the engine. We used to do it on Tornado jet engines when pumps and gearboxes started to fail. Drain and flush about 3-4 times until all swarf has been removed or until oil filter is clear of debris. Pain in the a55 but the only proper way to remove the swarf.
 
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Yeah it's a thing I did think of brodster I but then I don't want to let it just float about the engine when flushing it and then theirs the possibility of it blocking the pickup strainer , its just the hassle of doing it ! Don't think the garage will contribute in anyway but could be wrong
 
The good thing is funds depending I have a few nice bits lined up to rebuild it for big power ;)
 
s3_sid said:
Yeah it's a thing I did think of brodster I but then I don't want to let it just float about the engine when flushing it and then theirs the possibility of it blocking the pickup strainer , its just the hassle of doing it ! Don't think the garage will contribute in anyway but could be wrong
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Well....if it's good enough for a jet engine,I'd trust it.


s3_sid said:
The good thing is funds depending I have a few nice bits lined up to rebuild it for big power
wink.gif
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Good time to go for that,while the engine is out and in bits.

That saves a LOT of time and cash.
 
not done much with this at the moment but its not looking encouraging , they cams have scoring on the journals lobes are fine not a mark on them so i think its going to need a head or whole engine but they seem to be like rocking horse poo !! my engine is a bhz which i know is only a s3 engine now does anyone know if something like a cdl engine would hook up to my ancillaries and box ect ?
 
s3_sid said:
not done much with this at the moment but its not looking encouraging , they cams have scoring on the journals lobes are fine not a mark on them so i think its going to need a head or whole engine but they seem to be like rocking horse poo !! my engine is a bhz which i know is only a s3 engine now does anyone know if something like a cdl engine would hook up to my ancillaries and box ect ?
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Sorry to hear that.

I think in any situation where loose metal is found in an engine,the results are usually pretty bad,especially little bits that get carried everywhere.

You can sometimes find entire engines on the net,and esp.places like eBay,but you have to be very careful with what you get.
 
yeah i know its always my luck ! been lucking like mad on the web trying to find on that being striped for parts ! i have toyed with the idea of getting a brand new engine from audi but im a bit short on cash !
 
What's the latest with the Garage did you have any luck?
 
not much joy with the garage to be honest they sent a solicitors letter basically saying i have not told them what is wrong with the car and their are no faults bar a tapping from the engine as in no loss of power or engine lights on ... ( some people make you laugh) so im getting an engineers report and getting my solicitor to correspond with him but its going to be a drawn out process and i just want my car back its annoying me like no once business !! especially living where i do its a pain if you don't own a car !
 
Ah man thats not good, this was the Sprint Blue S3 if I remember right?
 
your memory is impeccable :laugh: had to remove the old thread for legal reasons ...
 
s3_sid said:
yeah i know its always my luck ! been lucking like mad on the web trying to find on that being striped for parts ! i have toyed with the idea of getting a brand new engine from audi but im a bit short on cash !
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I think given the cost of an entire new engine,you'd be best looking for a good one from a wrecker,unless you have very deep pockets.
 
its all a trust game ! their was a nice one from a beakers for 1500 but thats sold now ! but audi want 3600+ vat for a bare motor which i dont think is massively bad when some of these breakers are wanting £2k and your not sure on the engine, and it would make it easier to sell when it has a receipt for a new engine from audi
 
s3_sid said:
its all a trust game ! their was a nice one from a beakers for 1500 but thats sold now ! but audi want 3600+ vat for a bare motor which i dont think is massively bad when some of these breakers are wanting £2k and your not sure on the engine, and it would make it easier to sell when it has a receipt for a new engine from audi
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That's actually a very good point.

If that's the price Audi are quoting,I think it's a pretty decent one,as it guarantees you a brand new engine that someone hasn't knackered.
Does that include the head?
 
yeah i think its prity good price i asked for it to be the bare engine but you never know with some of these parts guys ... i am going to call tps once i hear back from the garage and see what we can do.

i may be able to just get a head for my car but its just you dont know where the metal has gone and you can never get rid of it 100% i cant imagine !

the only dilemma is that if i buy a new engine iv almost put half of what the car cost me back into it again !!
 
i tell you what i did find the other day though that i thought was interesting ! you can buy a fully built 2.2 tfsi race engine from germany for 6999 euro so £6000 which i dont think is massively bad
 
look in classifieds
theres a s3 been broke looks like he has all parts
worth giveing him a call
 
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s3_sid said:
i tell you what i did find the other day though that i thought was interesting ! you can buy a fully built 2.2 tfsi race engine from germany for 6999 euro so £6000 which i dont think is massively bad
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It's reasonably good,and it may well be from a US company which builds these engines.

I've looked at that as well!
 
this was a company called bar tek , with a red rocker cover on them ? what was the us company called ? might be worth dropping them a line with the better exchange rate and such im open to all avenues lol
 
Yeah just looked into them and aparently they ain't as good as they look ! They use cheap Chinese pistons rods and parts that you cannt find anywhere as they brand then as their own so makes you think a bit and not sure if I'd trust it !
 
s3_sid said:
Yeah just looked into them and aparently they ain't as good as they look ! They use cheap Chinese pistons rods and parts that you cannt find anywhere as they brand then as their own so makes you think a bit and not sure if I'd trust it !
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Don't be too quick to dismiss chinese rods.

You'll find if you Google it,that most of the aftermarket rods originate there,and are exported and finished by the eventual sellers.

It's the quality of the finishing and balancing that really counts,as the rods themselves are pretty tough,and reliability is amazjingly good for these rods,as I don't know anyone,myself included,that's managed to bend a set.
 
i know what your saying alex , right i know its not advisable but im struggling to find the same engine code as mine being a bhz its a s3 only engine has anyone fit a different block and used their old ancillaries ? main concern is like will the gearbox fit on ect most the electric's ect must be the same across the board
 
I think you should stick the 2.5tfsi in there
 
Ha funny you mention it ! I was looking at one its just all the other bits needed to make it work that makes it very expensive !!
 
R34nel said:
I think you should stick the 2.5tfsi in there
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Funnily enough,not only very costly,but getting the 2.5L engine over 500bhp is looking very difficult,if tuning is what's in mind.

Even if it isn't,it's a seriously expensive project,and cheaper to source a new 2.0TFSi and still have change for tuning it.
 
S3Alex said:
Funnily enough,not only very costly,but getting the 2.5L engine over 500bhp is looking very difficult,if tuning is what's in mind.

Even if it isn't,it's a seriously expensive project,and cheaper to source a new 2.0TFSi and still have change for tuning it.
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Yeah I appreciate what your saying, wasnt a serious suggestion although It would be nice
 
right guys i have got my hands on a bhz bottom end and head 39k on it for 750 which i thinks not to bad ! ,

any tips for things i should so before i put the head on it i know the normal de coke the valves ill give it a bit of a port and polish but nothing to extreme as well as regrind the valves

also any tips or things i should look out for when removing the engine and box ? i just planed on doing it like most others and pull the front end off the car i assume is easiest ?
 
s3_sid said:
right guys i have got my hands on a bhz bottom end and head 39k on it for 750 which i thinks not to bad ! ,

any tips for things i should so before i put the head on it i know the normal de coke the valves ill give it a bit of a port and polish but nothing to extreme as well as regrind the valves

also any tips or things i should look out for when removing the engine and box ? i just planed on doing it like most others and pull the front end off the car i assume is easiest ?
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If you were thinking of anything like porting and polishing the head,now is the time....much cheaper this way.

If not,make sure the valve stems are cleaned,as they can get amazingly coked up.

You won't get the engine out without taking the front off the car.


 
cool cheers alex though that would be the case well ill be striping the whole head geting put in a ultrasonic bath then just do a complete rebuild i know alot of people leave out valve stem oil seals but when they come in the head set for 5 mins its not worth changing them !!

im probably going to put a smf flywheel and sachs clutch on it as well save messing around in the future ! do they take much pain past stage 2+

looks like fun undoing the prop shaft bolts !
 
s3_sid said:
cool cheers alex though that would be the case well ill be striping the whole head geting put in a ultrasonic bath then just do a complete rebuild i know alot of people leave out valve stem oil seals but when they come in the head set for 5 mins its not worth changing them !!

im probably going to put a smf flywheel and sachs clutch on it as well save messing around in the future ! do they take much pain past stage 2+

looks like fun undoing the prop shaft bolts !
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That's always amazed me why people will leave out things like that,which take little time,and cost so little,when the thing is in bits anyway.

As to the bolts....you'd have to ask AMD.....I come up with daft ideas,and they find a way of doing it!

I would say the Sachs or Loba clutches are the best for your requirements,and both will take you to around 440lbs if you treat them right,especially the Sachjs in that respect.
If you give it hell from day one,it won't last,and the Loba is tougher in that area.
 
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