Just whipped the rear diff mount off as received my polycraft polytek 85 shore polyurethane so just waiting for it to go off then i will be out putting it back on in roughly 2 hours !!
Brads A4 2.0 TQS build thread
- Thread starter Bradderz_1988
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All is fitted slight clunk when changing to second think the inner cv joints may be a little worn on take up, also there is a whine/grone at about 2-3k on overun at low speeds coming from the rear which goes as soon as you dip the clutch, rear diff ?? Inner cv joints ?? Wheel bearing possibly ?? Sounds like n/s/r !!
Where did you get the polytek stuff, and does it come black as standard or do you put a dye in it?
Regards the clunk, I noticed when replacing my rear diff that there is quite alot of slop in all of the cv joints even though they are not knackered. There is even movement in the splines between cv and the shaft.
So I reckon getting rid of all the slop will be near impossible. Just my 2p.
The whine/groan, are you sure its from the rear? Surely it wouldn't go if you dip the clutch as everything is still turning?
Regards the clunk, I noticed when replacing my rear diff that there is quite alot of slop in all of the cv joints even though they are not knackered. There is even movement in the splines between cv and the shaft.
So I reckon getting rid of all the slop will be near impossible. Just my 2p.
The whine/groan, are you sure its from the rear? Surely it wouldn't go if you dip the clutch as everything is still turning?
The stuff is from ebay its not black its more of a honey colour just looks black due to the original bush
Polytek Poly PT Flex 85 Fast Cure - Shore A85 Polyurethane Rubber - 500g | eBay
Im pretty sure its the rear when its under load from the engine if you twist the prop there is a thud (slack) noise in the rear diff dont no if this is normal though ??
Polytek Poly PT Flex 85 Fast Cure - Shore A85 Polyurethane Rubber - 500g | eBay
Im pretty sure its the rear when its under load from the engine if you twist the prop there is a thud (slack) noise in the rear diff dont no if this is normal though ??
Ah right, I though it was black as supplied. I'll get some ordered for my project then.
I think the thud is normal. Both diffs I've got do it. I think its the backlash in the gears inside the diff that is the issue, that can be adjusted I believe, not easy though.
I think the thud is normal. Both diffs I've got do it. I think its the backlash in the gears inside the diff that is the issue, that can be adjusted I believe, not easy though.
wheel measurements?
heres what i found on audizine :-
Frankenturbo F21
I will measure them myself to make sure A) the F21 spec is correct and B) see if my F4 has shrunk lol as it might go on ebay for parts not working if its all within spec !!
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Were can i get one off these from the uk ??
K03/K04 Turbo Locking Flange - 034Motorsport | Performance Parts for Audi, Porsche, and Volkswagen
K03/K04 Turbo Locking Flange - 034Motorsport | Performance Parts for Audi, Porsche, and Volkswagen
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I have the same slack, swapping the diff didnt really help it, and i found stiffening everything up just make the clunk more pronounced. Changing gear quickly is now a horrific experience with massive bangs from under the car as the prop unloads and loads up again...
I think its partly caused by play in the CV joints, so my next job is to replace them all.
I think its partly caused by play in the CV joints, so my next job is to replace them all.
As I mentioned I noticed play between the splines of the inner part of the cv and the shaft, both on the driveshafts and the propshaft.
So I wonder if it would do any good to assemble the cv's onto the shaft splines using thread lock in an attempt to eliminate the play, or would the torque loading/unloading just crush the loctite?
So I wonder if it would do any good to assemble the cv's onto the shaft splines using thread lock in an attempt to eliminate the play, or would the torque loading/unloading just crush the loctite?
UPDATE:
took my B6 S4 calipers to work and did the same as i did with the rears.
also measured the comp wheel and its more or less bang on to the pics in the frankenturbo link !!
took my B6 S4 calipers to work and did the same as i did with the rears.
also measured the comp wheel and its more or less bang on to the pics in the frankenturbo link !!
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New shaft time tbh. If the hardened steel is fubar, loctite isnt going to be able to save it!!
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Looks like a 2277 wheel, as used on the 911 Turbo.
Afaik that wheel is good for about 300hp, but the turbine side is too restrictive so you wont see that much.
Bit smaller than the turbo on our avant, which has a 2280 compressor, and an RS6 (44mm) turbine wheel, which is slightly bigger than your 42mm one. With a 12psi actuator we're seeing around 230hp airflow figures. Not had it on a dyno or got it tuned yet though!
Should be a good little turbo.
Afaik that wheel is good for about 300hp, but the turbine side is too restrictive so you wont see that much.
Bit smaller than the turbo on our avant, which has a 2280 compressor, and an RS6 (44mm) turbine wheel, which is slightly bigger than your 42mm one. With a 12psi actuator we're seeing around 230hp airflow figures. Not had it on a dyno or got it tuned yet though!
Should be a good little turbo.
Ive read on frankenturbo or forum that it is a 2280 compressor wheel iirc
what other mods you got for it to be showing those airflow figures you on stock injectors etc ?? you running n75 disconnected then ??
what other mods you got for it to be showing those airflow figures you on stock injectors etc ?? you running n75 disconnected then ??
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Hmm, its not big enough to be a 2280 i dont think...
2280 is 56x45, 2277 is 56x43.
Yours matches the 2077 measuement!
Its running a 3" MAF, C20LET injectors and a 3 bar regulator, stock tune, no N75 and a 12psi actuator.
2280 is 56x45, 2277 is 56x43.
Yours matches the 2077 measuement!
Its running a 3" MAF, C20LET injectors and a 3 bar regulator, stock tune, no N75 and a 12psi actuator.
ive checked mine and the only play i can feel is actually the flanges on the diff maybe a couple off mm not the actually CV joint theres only minimal play in the CV joints, theres also play and the clunk noise in the rear diff if i spin the prop back and forth, the clunk is more there if i do it back and forth harsh and quick, this noise is doing my head in now i could hear it before i put the poly'd rear diff mount on but not to the extent i can now i noticed the o/s/r shaft seal is weaping so going to get that done and top up with oil, im also going to do the N/S/R wheel bearing as at motorway speeds it does sound like a dry bearing, and when i fitted it there was play but i thought it was acceptable and that the shaft bolt would take up the play so will do that under warranty just to rule it out !!
i did think id cured it as if found that a bolt that goes through the box/block below the starter bolts had thrown the nut and was hitting the driveshat on the o/s/f and thought it was this but it turned out it wasnt ...... typical !!
nice !! You on the VR6 sensor or just stock and housing as didnt mark have trouble with his in stock sensor in VR6 housing ??
so if i adjust my actuator to 12psi and swap those bits i should see similar airflow ?? Do i just pop a mity vac on and pressure up to 12 psi when wastgate valve fully closed ??
just looked at there website and on the F21's for the S4 they are 2180 spec comp wheels which show the same measurements as the 1.8T F21 !!
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Mine has an actual 12psi actuator on it, not sure what you've got? trying to raise actuator pressure by adjusting the rod isnt a great idea though, as you end up with a smaller "fully open" angle, and thus potentially out of control boost.
Its the original MAF sensor, inside the VR6 housing. I've got an S3 MAF lined up as well for when i switch to ME7.
I'm also on stock exhaust manifold, although i had it ported a bit by Badger5, and i'm still running fully stock exhaust system/cat.
Borg Warner dont do a 2180 wheel afaik. They have two series, 20xx and 22xx. 20xx have 50mm exducer (2.0") and 22xx have 56mm exducer (2.2")
the second digits represent the inducer size as a % of the exducer. So 2280 means 2.2" (56mm) exducer, and 56 x 80% (45mm) inducer.
A 2180 if it existed would have a 2.1" exducer, which yours doesnt!
Very roughly, the 2277 will flow 300hp, 2280 will do 320ish, and 2283 will do 350ish.
The problem is the turbine housing on our K03's is tiny, so that poses a big flow restriction. We recon the headline figure of somewhere around 270-280 could be achieved on the stock housing.
Its the original MAF sensor, inside the VR6 housing. I've got an S3 MAF lined up as well for when i switch to ME7.
I'm also on stock exhaust manifold, although i had it ported a bit by Badger5, and i'm still running fully stock exhaust system/cat.
Borg Warner dont do a 2180 wheel afaik. They have two series, 20xx and 22xx. 20xx have 50mm exducer (2.0") and 22xx have 56mm exducer (2.2")
the second digits represent the inducer size as a % of the exducer. So 2280 means 2.2" (56mm) exducer, and 56 x 80% (45mm) inducer.
A 2180 if it existed would have a 2.1" exducer, which yours doesnt!
Very roughly, the 2277 will flow 300hp, 2280 will do 320ish, and 2283 will do 350ish.
The problem is the turbine housing on our K03's is tiny, so that poses a big flow restriction. We recon the headline figure of somewhere around 270-280 could be achieved on the stock housing.
Frankenturbo list it as a high lit custom actuator (5-12psi) yeah i read on vortex that the wheel is a complete redesign thats not available from BW or anywhere else its a fully custom comp wheel for FT !!
VWVortex.com - Farewell to a FrankenFriend: F4T ----> F21T
What would you recommend as to setting the actuator ??
VWVortex.com - Farewell to a FrankenFriend: F4T ----> F21T
What would you recommend as to setting the actuator ??
Iceash
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fair enough!
It'll be interesting to see how it spools compared to mine, because mine is certainly "laggier" now it has the big hybrid in it.
It'll be interesting to see how it spools compared to mine, because mine is certainly "laggier" now it has the big hybrid in it.
When i first installed the turbo it was pretty quick on spool but then it went down hill, it peaked at 14psi and was fairly quick at hitting full boost, now it hits 12 then goes straight to 10 maybe just under and feels really laggier now compared to the first few months of fitting it, do you get any boost spikes with yours as mine used to boost spike like mad when go back on full wot at low speeds ?? There is residue of oil at the crankcase breather that i need to replace aswell which iirc is common for causing boost leaks ??
Also in a dilema of brake pad opinions ?? Should i
1. buy feroddo premiers all round ??
2. buy a set of new rear pagids for under £15 and use the near new front pagids that came with calipers which ive cleaned up ??
3. use the front pagids and rear brembo pads also like new ??
Im leaning towards 2. as just trying to keep cost to a minimum at the minute but would like same pad compound all round !!
Also in a dilema of brake pad opinions ?? Should i
1. buy feroddo premiers all round ??
2. buy a set of new rear pagids for under £15 and use the near new front pagids that came with calipers which ive cleaned up ??
3. use the front pagids and rear brembo pads also like new ??
Im leaning towards 2. as just trying to keep cost to a minimum at the minute but would like same pad compound all round !!
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The cheapy pagids are pretty awful, i'd avoid those.
The big hybrid doesnt spike at all as its just on actuator pressure. Spikes only occur because the ECU's N75 mapping isnt lined up with the turbo.
The little one was more like the F4L in size, and its a little spikey, especially like you say if you lift at highish rpm then reapply throttle, but the car has a really odd issue when changing gear after a full bore run thru the revs to near the limiter, where you only get 5psi for a second or so, then it gives you 10ish. Gave up trying to get to the bottom of it.
The big hybrid doesnt spike at all as its just on actuator pressure. Spikes only occur because the ECU's N75 mapping isnt lined up with the turbo.
The little one was more like the F4L in size, and its a little spikey, especially like you say if you lift at highish rpm then reapply throttle, but the car has a really odd issue when changing gear after a full bore run thru the revs to near the limiter, where you only get 5psi for a second or so, then it gives you 10ish. Gave up trying to get to the bottom of it.
What you reckon hp wise if i left the actuator at 7-8 psi and threw some C20lets in with 3 bar fpr and 3" maf with N75 disconnected ????
When you say yours is laggier is it not due to the 12 psi actuator ??
When you say yours is laggier is it not due to the 12 psi actuator ??
Finished these off today built them up ready to throw on caliper pipes and brackets should be here tomorrow then just need a caliper slide pin as someone has butchered the 7mm allen key !!
aragorn as to the pagids B5QUAT had these and couldnt fault them i no the rears are cheap but isnt that as they fit various models across the range the fronts for the S4 are £70 off ebay !!
aragorn as to the pagids B5QUAT had these and couldnt fault them i no the rears are cheap but isnt that as they fit various models across the range the fronts for the S4 are £70 off ebay !!
This is the noise i can hear not the best but you can here it as i come off throttle on to overrun, i can also here the noise when on throttle at certain speeds in different gears on the motorway it seems to sound like a wheel bearing and dont no if its just me or the noise itself but it seems to change with steering input !!
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums...F608E44-2874-000003C2AA467B8E_zps7539380f.mp4
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums...F608E44-2874-000003C2AA467B8E_zps7539380f.mp4
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The S4 front pads are the same as quite a few A4 and A6 models too, they're not all that rare.
Not sure if theres much point doing the MAF and injectors etc if your leaving it at 8psi...
Not sure if theres much point doing the MAF and injectors etc if your leaving it at 8psi...
So if i pushed it up to 10psi maybe 12psi then it would be worth it ?? Did you fit the 12 psi actuator before or at the same time as fitting the maf/injectors ??
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everything went on together.
I figured that at 12psi it would be flowing more air than the stock MAF/injectors/tune could cope with, so went with the 3" maf from the off.
I figured that at 12psi it would be flowing more air than the stock MAF/injectors/tune could cope with, so went with the 3" maf from the off.
Ok so best get it on all at same time and disconnect the N75 !!
just need a 3 bar FPR and injectors as B5QUAT said i could have the one he had for his TQS !!
what CC are the injectors your using ?? 315 or 350 ??
just need a 3 bar FPR and injectors as B5QUAT said i could have the one he had for his TQS !!
what CC are the injectors your using ?? 315 or 350 ??
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Well got the pump done today took me 2.5 hours, eventually got the pump out thought the sump would be a pain but removed the N/S engine mount and it kinda fell out with some manoeuvring and jacking the engine a little and lowering the subframe a little, had to strip both pumps to get them out/in dont know how audi can charge the price they do for them theres naff all to it !!
The gauze didn't look to clogged maybe round the edges but there was a clump right near the pick up that may off been causing the light to come on
sump looked a little something like this -
^^ Loads of crap below were the pump is bolted
new pump built back up and bolted in place
My sump escape route !!
car runs miles better now !!
and a tip aswel clean the bottom of the block and sump faces but apply your chosen sealant to the block much easier than trying to manoeuvre the sump with it on :thumbsup:
The gauze didn't look to clogged maybe round the edges but there was a clump right near the pick up that may off been causing the light to come on
sump looked a little something like this -
^^ Loads of crap below were the pump is bolted
new pump built back up and bolted in place
My sump escape route !!
car runs miles better now !!
and a tip aswel clean the bottom of the block and sump faces but apply your chosen sealant to the block much easier than trying to manoeuvre the sump with it on :thumbsup:
UPDATE:
other week i removed this from the milltek for a little more noise !!
saturday i got cracking throwing this lot on :-
Hit a stop gap when i found what i heard/seen something flew of the car the other week !! CV boot clip let go so regreased and secured but need to redo with a heavy duty clip !!
Some before and after shots !!
tomorrow i will be tracking it again !!
next is replace rear diff and S4 facelift 300mm rear brake upgrade !!
then im going to look at getting the F21 upgrade on with maf/fpr/injectors and find a cheap engine to build up in the garage ready to drop in and take a trip to unicorn !!
other week i removed this from the milltek for a little more noise !!
saturday i got cracking throwing this lot on :-
Hit a stop gap when i found what i heard/seen something flew of the car the other week !! CV boot clip let go so regreased and secured but need to redo with a heavy duty clip !!
Some before and after shots !!
tomorrow i will be tracking it again !!
next is replace rear diff and S4 facelift 300mm rear brake upgrade !!
then im going to look at getting the F21 upgrade on with maf/fpr/injectors and find a cheap engine to build up in the garage ready to drop in and take a trip to unicorn !!
Update :-
rear diff is done and cured my bearing rumble, rear brakes will be getting done in the new year along with the rear bushes and drop links etc
next on the cards is to throw these on with the F21 Upgrade and VR6 MAF
injectors arrived today got them from seller brookesaab on ebay for £22.60 posted !! So give him a shout if your planning on going this route.
the above will be done as soon as i choose my air filter been looking at the ASH carbon air filter box and piping (anyone used one)
also i run the ecs crank pulley and have read on here that it can lead to engine destruction now mines been on over 12 months and not really noticed any errors, any input/suggestions welcome apart from fit the original as i dont have one !!
rear diff is done and cured my bearing rumble, rear brakes will be getting done in the new year along with the rear bushes and drop links etc
next on the cards is to throw these on with the F21 Upgrade and VR6 MAF
injectors arrived today got them from seller brookesaab on ebay for £22.60 posted !! So give him a shout if your planning on going this route.
the above will be done as soon as i choose my air filter been looking at the ASH carbon air filter box and piping (anyone used one)
also i run the ecs crank pulley and have read on here that it can lead to engine destruction now mines been on over 12 months and not really noticed any errors, any input/suggestions welcome apart from fit the original as i dont have one !!
Well its been decided that i will be running one of these and its MASSIVE !!Took a pic next to the 3" MAF for size Comparison !! 
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Will be interested to see the difference in sound it makes with that filter, I took the lid off my airbox on the s2000 and you really hear the induction noise! Especially between 6k and 9k revs
Will let you no how it goes and pictures of install just about to order some hoses etc to put the filter lower behind the light unit then i might look at making a heat shield up !!
