S3 BT build.

Awesome thread mate, great read and quality progress. Can't wait to see the final numbers.

Very interested in the outcome of the LPFP too....
 
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S3 Alex,,,,It’s such a drag trying to find someone who can produce performance parts who is UK based seeing as this is a growing market and culture!

AFI tubular manifold is one serious nice looking peace of kit built using 306 stainless steel, which makes this a great performance upgrade & I would think to be very pricey too. We need someone quick to help us adrenaline freaks! Works of Art probably has the nicest one around, but not for everyday driving, a bit noisy I find. I have noticed that Unitronic loves using them in their bigger applications though!

It's good to see well established bigger companies who can come up with great upgrade ideas! This fuel pump was one of them! I can’t really comment on what Steve says, but it will be confirmed very soon though! LOL There are 2 pumps on these S3s, high pressure & low pressure, the LPFP is the weakest link seeing 440bhp is its limits.
 
S3Alex said:
Just keep it coming,and burn the midnight oil.

Love to find out what you think when you've got it running.

Each time I've taken a big step with mine,it's felt great,and kind of like having the Cosworths all over again.


I remember buying the GpN Escort and being told it would kill me or cure me......seems it didn't quite do either,and I'm sure this will be a great car when it's finished(although finishing a build is another thing altogether).
Click to expand...


Great cars when thy were introduced! I would any day have my self one of them but this S3 better put the smile on my life on my face! I can't wait to test drive it July coming & taking it for its 700 mile slow run will be killing me!
 
S3Alex

My original planing was to achieve for instance 500hp @ 500lbs and choosing the 83.5 flat top piston with a height of 1 mm higher than the standard piston that this would be a huge factor in achieving these torque figures.
 
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Well it was time to do some extra work and this was what came up!









After watching some youtube clips how to imitate carbon fiber I thought I would give it a shot my self and this was it. LOL











 
Unitronic said:
S3Alex

My original planing was to achieve for instance 500hp @ 500lbs and choosing the 83.5 flat top piston with a height of 1 mm higher than the standard piston that this would be a huge factor in achieving these torque figures.
Click to expand...

I went for the reduced CR Wossners which have quite a sculpted top but should allow me to continue to raise power without worrying about boost levels and CR's.

Mine last ran 480+bhp and 480lbs on a dyno,but as I've explained elsewhere,was pulling out load and timing on the dyno,so it's not a true representation of what it does on the road(i.e. it does better on the road).

A number of people have had problems with rolling roads and Haldex systems,leading to errors,and pulling back etc,so I wasn't too surprised to have the same issues.
The good thing is it runs better when it's not stuck on a dyno.

I would think that with a GTX3076,WMI,and all the other bits you're including,that 500bhp will be easily achievable,as mine does that with a GT3071.
 
Unitronic said:
S3 Alex,,,,It’s such a drag trying to find someone who can produce performance parts who is UK based seeing as this is a growing market and culture!

AFI tubular manifold is one serious nice looking peace of kit built using 306 stainless steel, which makes this a great performance upgrade & I would think to be very pricey too. We need someone quick to help us adrenaline freaks! Works of Art probably has the nicest one around, but not for everyday driving, a bit noisy I find. I have noticed that Unitronic loves using them in their bigger applications though!

It's good to see well established bigger companies who can come up with great upgrade ideas! This fuel pump was one of them! I can’t really comment on what Steve says, but it will be confirmed very soon though! LOL There are 2 pumps on these S3s, high pressure & low pressure, the LPFP is the weakest link seeing 440bhp is its limits.
Click to expand...

Hi there...missed this last night!

There are a few UK based companies,but a lot of the existing parts are coming from the USA still.

The AEI system is basically the BSH Work of Art,and I'm not sure if that's what you were referring to,or another system you've found along the way as well.

I do know of one other tubular system,but again it's not UK based,but I can look it out if you want.

I think that as with a few other things on the S3,Audi decided not to over-spec,and the LP pump was just another of those parts...the "yellow top" pump seems to be finding it's way around the net right now,and I notice that USP are also selling them.

The WMI system on mine was placed in the unused battery well in the boot...



And the controller in the ashtray,which I don't have any use for.....




But I don't think yours would fit in that space!
 
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S3Alex said:
A number of people have had problems with rolling roads and Haldex systems,leading to errors,and pulling back etc,so I wasn't too surprised to have the same issues.
Click to expand...
we pull the haldex fuse and dyno it at front wheels only. Otherwise like you say, car is all over the place.
 
superkarl said:
we pull the haldex fuse and dyno it at front wheels only. Otherwise like you say, car is all over the place.
Click to expand...
It's a strange thing,but seems to have a lot to do with the way the Haldex manages traction and power distribution,but pulling the fuse has it's own issues.

We've tried mine with the Haldex disabled,and a friend from Europe has also,but the problems of putting 500bhp/500lbs down via the front wheels alone make the whole thing a bit of a lottery at high power/torque levels with this system.

I'll maybe try mine again after the turbo and diff are installed and see if it makes any difference.
 
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Looks very neat & you can still use the boot space, nice work buddy! the controller looks nice and neatly tucked away as well! The Devils Own has a smaller control & wold probably fit nicely in the same space! I don't use the ashtray my self so its something I will look at!

I have relocated the battery as I needed more space in the engine bay for my catch-can and lied all the necessary cables and pipe work for the WMI! took a small amount of time but fairly easily done!

I will be making up some aluminium plate's where the battery was located for my Catch-can location. Still have not decided if I want to run the wall through as well seeing I would need a heat blank of for the induction & would probably cut a hole for a secondary cold feed using the OEM feed from the front grill feeding the induction with flexible piping!
 
S3Alex said:
I went for the reduced CR Wossners which have quite a sculpted top but should allow me to continue to raise power without worrying about boost levels and CR's.

Mine last ran 480+bhp and 480lbs on a dyno,but as I've explained elsewhere,was pulling out load and timing on the dyno,so it's not a true representation of what it does on the road(i.e. it does better on the road).

A number of people have had problems with rolling roads and Haldex systems,leading to errors,and pulling back etc,so I wasn't too surprised to have the same issues.
The good thing is it runs better when it's not stuck on a dyno.

I would think that with a GTX3076,WMI,and all the other bits you're including,that 500bhp will be easily achievable,as mine does that with a GT3071.
Click to expand...

Awesome, do you know the weight differences between the Wossners & standard rods & pistons? They seem to look lighter but could be deceiving?

Nice figures man! 480lbs is so nice! I have found driving on road surface are way better seeing I'm not such a big fan of RR! I mostly take my car out on the road doing its final bits of fine tuning and do defo get more out of it then a RR! However, RR are good for detecting detonation & reading Air-Fuel ratios!

The Heldex as you mentioned have there own problems seeing when you disconnect the fuse it leaves the prop spinning at high speeds which I think could cause its own problems on high revs! The Gen 2 could help you run comfortably on RR tho as it has it settings as you know...

I will be around 580 crank hp fingers crossed and it will be achievable. This time round I will not be using Revo flash files.
 
Well the first thing to look at would be the MAF & induction system! I have had 2 ideas concerning the MAF,,,,,delete it or use the flow through system but seeing that most big mapping companies have problems with the MAF flow through I would suspect it could be the heat sensitivity the MAF might have on the FT system.

It seems we will have to stick with the 2.75" MAF housing and find a way to feed the car with 24 PSI! This's why I have tken the next step to use the RFD including Partition delete! this alone will give you 25hp more on this application.
 
Mines running 2bar currently and I think the MAF diameter is a sticking point in terms of mapping as there seem to be no alternatives.

Having said that a number of people have run considerably more boost via the same system without problems.

I would think yours (and mine when the GTX arrives) should be workable.

I don't know the weights of the pistons and rods but the rods are way stronger than the originals.
 
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Using most parts from my previous car I had to upgrade the engine mounts to M L400 Vibra-Technics internals.

This's what happens when one bolt loosens up!




Just replaced the internals with L400.





 
Still very early stages deciding what I was going to do with the Partition Flaps I cleaned them up before I decided to go RFD system! Here are some pics showing the carbon buildup!














 
The entire intake and scavenging on this car is a bit of a nightmare and all for the sake of emission control.

The valve stems in particular get caked with gunk but you've already sorted that!
 
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Partition Flap Delete & RFD. These flaps are another restriction I don't need including RFD!

The side inserts are replaced with 10.3mm rods and CNC finished. Its a sure 20hp to 35hp+ gains depending on applications!





Runner Flaps.





 
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We can see what difference there are in this intake with RFD and the previous restrictions!










This's the end result when Partition Flap has been deleted and CNC machined after the 10.3 rods are inserted!


 
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S3Alex said:
The entire intake and scavenging on this car is a bit of a nightmare and all for the sake of emission control.

The valve stems in particular get caked with gunk but you've already sorted that!
Click to expand...


How's you Al hope you having a great weekend buddy! I will be diverting all PVC valves to a Subaru Catch Can! I'm not very keen on the smells but will divert the outlet pipe under the chassis to the back of the car to restrict the nasty smells from this Catch Can! :-(
 
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Lovely work.

WIll you be using a custom map or APR's RFD map?

I think what you're doing here is superb!
 
hate them flaps thats what i did with my inlet just took them off so much better flow ... makes me wonder sometimes with all the R&D why they would engineer these flaps the way they did
 
Hi Bryan

Lovely work on both the Leon and the S3,this looks like a nice thread to keep an eye on , the Cnc work on the head after the rod insert work looks pretty smart its a shame somebody doesnt manufactuer the inserts to remove the flaps on the head side as i think they would be a good seller for anyone doing work in that area already.

nice to see people going to town on the mods and also creates something interesting for us car loving freaks to read.
 
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phil76 said:
Hi Bryan

Lovely work on both the Leon and the S3,this looks like a nice thread to keep an eye on , the Cnc work on the head after the rod insert work looks pretty smart its a shame somebody doesnt manufactuer the inserts to remove the flaps on the head side as i think they would be a good seller for anyone doing work in that area already.

nice to see people going to town on the mods and also creates something interesting for us car loving freaks to read.
Click to expand...

The problem with the runner flaps is that when removed,you may get rough or erratic idling,and APR do sell a kit of parts to delete the flaps.
They do of course recommend their own software to get around this.

APR - Runner flap delete.
 
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Do you know if anywhere sells the machined rod inserts for the head itself? Surely it would make sense to sell the kit with everything to do the delete :think:
 
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S3Alex said:
The problem with the runner flaps is that when removed,you may get rough or erratic idling,and APR do sell a kit of parts to delete the flaps.
They do of course recommend their own software to get around this.

APR - Runner flap delete.
Click to expand...

Your right mate but that kit only replaces the inserts that the flaps bar runs through on the manifold side doesnt it and not in the in the grooves/machining in the head,the ones i have seen where they had done the mod you mention in the manifold side only seem to tick over rough (even that wording doesnt seem right because its not that bad) for a couple of minutes then you cant tell so first start up really.
 
phil76 said:
Your right mate but that kit only replaces the inserts that the flaps bar runs through on the manifold side doesnt it and not in the in the grooves/machining in the head,the ones i have seen where they had done the mod you mention in the manifold side only seem to tick over rough (even that wording doesnt seem right because its not that bad) for a couple of minutes then you cant tell so first start up really.
Click to expand...

To be fair to them Phil,I don't run their stuff on my car,and only know what I've seen or been told about.

I don't know exactly what's in their delete kit,and I agree with what you've said about the running.
 
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