top end flat spot/hesitation BAM

ttseph

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Hi iv got a bam 225 engine with a problem, ive not long had it so im pretty clueless as to what the problem is....

It runs what seems alrite up to about 5-5.5k revs then feels as though its stuck/somethings restricting it which aint the limiter, as it hesitates/fluctuates for a few seconds then pings past it to the redline at 7kish.

people have suggested boost leaks, overboost, coil packs, dump valve etc.

ive checked pipes over and over, replaced the inlet pipe, n75 valve. the problem is still there.

any pointers please and oh yeh no engine light is present.....

abs/esp light randomly comes on and ! with a circle round it in red in the middle dash panel, turn the car on and off and it will dissapear? not sure if thats anything to do with it but just read a post about a dodgy MAF pulling that light up so thought id mention it.

cheers for any help.
seph
 
forgot to mention when i let off the throttle to change gear it revs a little extra as if im still giving it a bit of throttle???
 
hi newbie, first posts as always a problem lol... get an obd 2 cable off ebay and the free software from ross-tech.com then plug your laptop in, bingo your car tells you whats wrong!-) cost you about 8 quid.
 
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forgot to mention when i let off the throttle to change gear it revs a little extra as if im still giving it a bit of throttle???

Clutch pedal switch
Causes car to over rev when the clutch pedal is depressed


I took this from a sticky in the 8L section have a search lots of great info in the stickies.
 
I'm getting it plugged in today but the is no engine light showing so not sure it's going to show up a lot
 
I'm getting it plugged in today but the is no engine light showing so not sure it's going to show up a lot

There are hundreds of possible faults that will not throw up a warning light on your dash mate.... as well as leaking pipes.

Where about are you located fella? You getting a VAG specialist to check it over for you?
 
Could be a number of things, sounds like a similar prob to what I am having.

The over revvnig between gear changes will be the clutch switch that will need replacing, I had to do mine recently when my clutch pedal snapped!!

With regards to boost leaks, they are not always visible, if possible, get a smoke test or boost leak test done on the car which will help to identify the issue some more for you.
 
Cheers for your replies, iv had it plugged in, wiped all previous codes and the code that came back up is....
16705 po321 ignition/distributor or engine speed input circuit-g28:range/pperformance

which given the lack of top end power I'm assuming will be a coil pack?? If anyone can clarify before I shed out on new coil packs would be a great help
 
Cheers for your replies, iv had it plugged in, wiped all previous codes and the code that came back up is....
16705 po321 ignition/distributor or engine speed input circuit-g28:range/pperformance

which given the lack of top end power I'm assuming will be a coil pack?? If anyone can clarify before I shed out on new coil packs would be a great help

Seph is popping round later and will be having a look over his car, ive got a spare engine speed sensor or 2 but have had AGU's and a APY blocks that have broken and not sure what come from which

Can anyone shed some light to wether these are different between engine codes?

Forgot to say his is a BAM
 
Forgot to say i would check ETKA or look at the sensors but theyre at work and was hoping soneone coukd confirm before I get a lift or cycle (because im lazy like that lol) ;)
 
Swapped the crank sensor over fine cheers Stacey, still got the same code coming up tho, cam sensor maby?
 
Possible Symptoms
Engine shuts off
Engine doesn't start
Speedometer inoperative
Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes
Possible Causes
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
Special Notes
The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position and correlates with the Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 1 (G40) and Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 (G163).
When an engine will not start due to mechanical timing or spark/fuel related issues it is not uncommon to set G28/G40/G163 fault codes. The basics should be checked if this code returns after extended craning and a no-start with a new sensor installed.
When found in a VW Golf/Jetta (1J/9M) or Audi A3 (8L) with 1.9l TDI-PD (AXR), check TPI 2007067 which explains issues with electro magnetic interference. A modification to the wiring will fix this problem, extensive details can be found in the named TPI. Even though this TPI was originally released for VW Golf/Jetta (1J/9M), a customer of ours came across the same issue on an Audi A3 (8L).
When found in a 2004 VW Golf, Jetta, or New Beetle with 1.9l TDI-PD (BEW), check for TSB 2010461 (01-07-45 formerly 97-05-03) or 201463 (01-07-44 formerly 97-05-04) calling for a flash update to the ECU and a secondary ground installation.
 
Thank you very much, have now changed cam and crank sensor. But it is still got hesitation at the top of the rev range and sometimes randomly. I noticed today it does not do it when it's cold!? It has a aftermarket cone filter on with no proper cold air feed, could the hot air cause this problem does anyone know? The engine seems too hot when opening the bonnet after driving but still reads 90 in the gauge.
 
Oh really? So my loss of power at 40C IAT makes sense, do you know how the timings are scaled with temperature?
 

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