My minor modding thread

Sorry to interrupt you build thread with a question, how or what is the technique of getting the plastic scuttle panel to clip back into the windscreen lower channel? I replaced mine with nice new one a week or so ago and could only get the ends to lock in place.
Andy
 
ap said:
Sorry to interrupt you build thread with a question, how or what is the technique of getting the plastic scuttle panel to clip back into the windscreen lower channel? I replaced mine with nice new one a week or so ago and could only get the ends to lock in place.
Andy
Click to expand...

place it on the groove and light tap it into place, but be very careful that you dont crack the windscreen, if you can use your thumbs
 
<tuffty/> said:
Any old pump, any old nozzle, DO check valve and a pressure switch... its the controllers that are usually crap and tbh if you do it right there is no need for progressive... progressive just reduces the pump pressure... if you use a fairly large nozzle then at lower pressure its not going to atomise properly... I plan to try small nozzles but use a twin nozzle setup running at full pressure... have seen a similar setup work well like that...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

LOVE YOUR WORK DUDE - you make things look so easy.

Are these the only things you need to run a "DIY" WMI setup ?
Plus the tank/fluid lines/fittings/wiring - obviously :blush:

So my understanding is,
Once the boost reaches the preset on the pressure switch, the pump kicks in at full operating pressure, suppling the WMI to the small nozzle(s)
 
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Scullies said:
LOVE YOUR WORK DUDE - you make things look so easy.

Are these the only things you need to run a "DIY" WMI setup ?
Plus the tank/fluid lines/fittings/wiring - obviously :blush:

So my understanding is,
Once the boost reaches the preset on the pressure switch, the pump kicks in at full operating pressure, suppling the WMI to the small nozzle(s)
Click to expand...

elcorecto boss!
reading gets taken off map sensor or maf
 
ap said:
Sorry to interrupt you build thread with a question, how or what is the technique of getting the plastic scuttle panel to clip back into the windscreen lower channel? I replaced mine with nice new one a week or so ago and could only get the ends to lock in place.
Andy
Click to expand...

The channel that is 'glued' under the windscreen that the cover clips into had come unstuck... so as you push to clip it in the channel just sank down so there was no way you could clip it in... I carefully removed this and cleaned it up... using silicon sealant to 'stick' it back to the bottom of the windscreen then I used some hotglue to support the channel as there was a massive gap which I guess if it was stuck on using the proper stuff would not be an issue but I didn't have any to hand...

This supported the channel well enough to enable me to push the cover back into the groove...

MIGGZ said:
top work as always dude. but that tank is small hey, dont know how much driving you do with the car
Click to expand...

Yeah, its a little small but I only plan to run it occasionally (hence the switch) and hoping using the smaller nozzles won't use it up so quickly... will see how it goes... I will re-evaluate if it turns out the tank is emptying too quickly... it was ideal for where I wanted to fit it :/

Scullies said:
LOVE YOUR WORK DUDE - you make things look so easy.

Are these the only things you need to run a "DIY" WMI setup ?
Plus the tank/fluid lines/fittings/wiring - obviously :blush:

So my understanding is,
Once the boost reaches the preset on the pressure switch, the pump kicks in at full operating pressure, suppling the WMI to the small nozzle(s)
Click to expand...

Pretty much yeah... just works off the pressure feed to my boost gauge... into the pressure switch and bingo... 18psi it switches the relay and the pump gets full juice...

<tuffty/>
 
MIGGZ said:
elcorecto boss!
reading gets taken off map sensor or maf
Click to expand...

Mine doesn't... I do have a progressive controller but not using it... they are unreliable and not totally convinced that its particularly 'progressive' at all... dual nozzle and maybe a 2 stage system using another pressure switch and a solenoid maybe... but will potentially try a dual nozzle setup depending on how things go with this... I am only after a drop in IAT's... not fussed about tuning for it as the car does alright as it is :)

<tuffty/>
 
What psi rating is the pump you have?
I have seen a few that range from 150, 200, 250 and 300 psi.
 
Scullies said:
What psi rating is the pump you have?
I have seen a few that range from 150, 200, 250 and 300 psi.
Click to expand...

Its a devils own pump... 200psi iirc... the newer ones seem rated higher (300psi)...

<tuffty/>
 
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So finally after owning a WMI kit for over 2 years I have actually got it fitted and working...

First of course I de-blinged the pump and the tank...
20130601_172602.jpg


Fitted the pump and made brackets for the tanks... piped it all up and wired the pump....
20130602_151405.jpg


Had a leak initially from the tank pipe as I hadn't pushed it home far enough but once sorted all was good...

Quick test on the way home from Bill's... ambient was 20 degrees... on cruise IAT's sat at 22/23 degrees.... 'armed' the system and gave the car a blast in third to properly load her up... didn't log with VCDS but fired up the 'Torque' app on my sammy S3....
wmi001.jpg


The 25 deg was from idling while parked up taking the screen shot... you can see the minimum figure of 12 degrees... exactly the result I was looking for out of this... normally IAT's would increase to 30/35 degrees in 20 degree ambient under boost but the results so far are very good... I gave the car another burst and had the same result... the car felt strong too... she has felt a little lethargic since the weather got warmer which is to be expected but the WMI appears to be doing exactly what I fitted it for... happy bunny :)

<tuffty/>
 
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superkarl said:
8 degrees below ambient?! Really? I didnt think it was that good wow.
Click to expand...

Yeah... its good **** man... when running on the dyno its typical to see it drop below ambient... not as much as this as a rule as it does get hotter on the dyno than it would on the road... will get some logs at some point when I find the time.... meth off and meth on back to back... get a good idea of the actual benefits then..

g60leigh said:
What water/meth ratio did you use there Tuffty!
Click to expand...

50/50 currently as Bill had some already premixed... will see how it goes and maybe drop to 30/70 at some point as this would be safer to use if I still get the cooling benefits from it..

<tuffty/>
 
I honestly thought it just knocked a few degrees off iats but still ambient or above, climbing with boost. I had no idea it was capable of dropping below ambient on boost. I do remember welly saying his mani wne frosty during winter but thats understandable, and not really good conditions to gauge the gains. Im not sure anybody has documented back to back runs with it on and off, but then ive not bothered to go searching really.
Up until now ive had absolutely zero interest in wmi...
 
superkarl said:
I honestly thought it just knocked a few degrees off iats but still ambient or above, climbing with boost. I had no idea it was capable of dropping below ambient on boost. I do remember welly saying his mani wne frosty during winter but thats understandable, and not really good conditions to gauge the gains. Im not sure anybody has documented back to back runs with it on and off, but then ive not bothered to go searching really.
Up until now ive had absolutely zero interest in wmi...
Click to expand...

Well... its not definitive by any stretch... but Torque uses the same data as VCDS etc (ECU data from the sensors) and I fired it up when the engine was warm and had done a few miles so IAT's were sat at a realistic 2/3 deg over ambient (which is normal on my setup from previous experience)... Torque records min and peak figures on the dials you have setup and there isn't anything else that would make my IAT drop to 12 deg on a 20 deg ambient day :)

I was surprised tbh too... its not to say WMI would do this on any install as its hugely subjective (my hardware setup is quite exotic compared) but I have seen WMI consistently drop IAT's lower than the registered ambient temps to varying degrees on cars run on Bill's dyno...

No idea why I left it so long lol...

<tuffty/>
 
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Well done Tuffty. WMI is great stuff, I'm still running a 50/50 mix but I don't have a liquid gauge so haven't really done much logging. All the logging I did last year was on VCDS and on a partially working WMI kit. I really should do some more logging.
 
I really need to get back on with my wmi set up. Tuffty you are a inspiration LOL
 
Last edited:
WOW that's impressive. Did you put ice water in the 50/50 mix :eyebrows:
Is that just on the small single nozzle setup?
So you running wmi on the current map?
Does wmi not throw out the fine tuning of a BT file?
Are you going to map the wmi in or just run it as you need it?

sorry for the 20 questions :blush:
 
Scullies said:
WOW that's impressive. Did you put ice water in the 50/50 mix :eyebrows:
Is that just on the small single nozzle setup?
So you running wmi on the current map?
Does wmi not throw out the fine tuning of a BT file?
Are you going to map the wmi in or just run it as you need it?

sorry for the 20 questions :blush:
Click to expand...

answers in CSV format...

No, Yes, Yes, No, B

:)

<tuffty/>
 
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Interesting day out today... went the TT Forums North vs South dyno day at Powerstation...

Bill took the Lupo of course :D

In preparation of course I cleaned the car... she was looking pretty damn good despite my somewhat epic fail of over wet sanding the **** lacquer job from the 'warranty' paint work I had done...
20130604_184533.jpg


20130604_185049.jpg


Over did the bit where the lacquer had peeled away from the original paint and broke through :(
...so for now I have just slapped some touch up over it and will address it later... despite that the rest came up fine.... ah well
20130604_200535.jpg


Still she came up ok in the end...
20130607_160022.jpg


Anyhoo... back to the dyno day... I hadn't intended to run my car but after a little badgering from Hollie and Bill (no pun intended) I ran her up...
powerstation-dyno.jpg


The runs on Powerstations dyno are very long... seems the dyno puts a lot of load on the car as the poor old girl was glowing a good one... for what ever reason they ran the car again and sadly this lead to the coolant hose behind the turbo decided to let go and piddle coolant over the glowing hotstuff... this lead to loads of white smoke and a small fire on the downpipe... marvellous!!!

The pipe in question is a stainless hard pipe but has a high pressure heat resistant rubber section to join the two halves together... (right of the picture below)
IMG_4366.jpg


Not an easy fix and topping up with water just poured out the bottom again... brilliant!...

Thankfully Bill being the super hero that he is donned his Badger Man outfit and came to the rescue...
20130608_160641.jpg


Hopefully should be a case of remove driveshaft and downpipe and I'll have access to sort it out...

Cars... gotta love um and todays lesson is (the same as all the others tbh)... heatshielding, heatshielding, heatshielding... anything that is likely to melt probably will :)

Engine will be out soon for 'some work' so I am going to address some of the issues like this to up the reliability factor...

<tuffty/>
 
Nice little write up but shame about the ending :(

I know this probably isnt the best comment....but the pic of bills S6 towing your S3 on the back of a trailer- both in silver is pretty cool looking :) If anybody saw it on the way home they would have just thought it was on its way to a track day!
 
Got the car on the ramp today and as suspected it was the rubber joiner... looking at it now I am thinking 'why the hell did I do that!' but you live and learn... irony being if a customers car came in like that I would most likely point out that its not a very good idea lol...

20130609_121144.jpg


20130609_132607.jpg


20130609_133412.jpg


New bit of hose this time with extra heat protection...
20130609_134547.jpg


20130609_151636.jpg


...and finally (when everything has cooled down after the leak check) a bit of ceramic backed stuff...
20130609_155617.jpg


This of course is a sort term fix... I am under no illusion that I need a full hard pipe there and thats what will happen (plus some other planned tweaks) when the engine comes out for 'some work'

Moral of the story is never to under estimate how hot these things get and heatshielding plus other preventative measures are your friends

She is leak free now at least and shouldn't have this issue again before the engine is out... yay!

<tuffty/>
 
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Westy said:
Good work Paul. Very unlike you that rubber pipe! Sort of thing is do lol.
Click to expand...

Seemed a good idea at the time and I did heat shield it... in fairness its lasted more than 12 months but Powerstation runs are epically hard on cars... things were glowing big time... relentless mani's would melt lol...

<tuffty/>
 
Heatshielding, heatshielding, heatshielding lol, yeah you made it clear to me i needed some :)
 
Love the picture of bills s6 towing your s3 .......... Mint! Only better would be if bill had badger break down assist graphics on it! :)
 
S6 towing the S3 looks awesome lol.

Didnt realise how much power this thing was running, oh dayum! Bet you surprise a fair few porschers etc in that!! Looks really clean too, good work! What an S3!
 
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