First start and faults advise

s3gazz

s3gazz

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Hi guys well started the car today after my second engine build.

problems I'm left with 3 faults

17956
17795
17748

Followed by Exhurst rattle wish is an easy fix.

so went for a spin after it got up to temp 90 degree boost gauge reads -12 but checked all pipe and there's no leaks after 15 mins drive water level has dropped to nowt 3 times so topped up and then engine Managment light came on deleted the fault and went not come back could this be todo with the faults above.
Also then another fault popped up 17705 pressure drop between turbo and throttle body em all pipe connected don't get it any help would be great thanks
 
You checked the red elbow from turbo to charge pipe? Any air locks in system for the coolant side?
 
Don't no how to check for air locks dani pal .

engine mani light should not come on tho should it.

Also last time Andrew said that's how I warped the head not bleeding it ryt
 
Have you actually looked any of these codes up yet Gazz as they are fairly self explanatory...

17956/P1548/005448 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17956/P1548/005448 - Boost Pressure Controle Valve (N75): Open Circuit

N75 disconnected...

17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17748/P1340/004928 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation

Cam belt or cam chain is out a tooth or link...

Only one I can't find on the wiki is 17795 but if you are using VCDS it will give you the description which will help you (and us) understand what it means...

P1387/17795 - Internal Contr. Module altitude sensor error... not a VCDS description I don't think but the actual description would be useful

<tuffty/>
 
Last edited:
Check all pipes are warm if not then you have air lock. Open expansion lid, put heaters on full and blower on full, hold revs at 3000 for a few minutes them check all pipes and if warm you should be good.
 
Thanks guys yes tuffty I've checked them pal and came up same as what u have posted can I ask where is the speed sensor on the car could be that.
 
Speed sensor? thats at the back of the gearbox... not sure what makes you think any of these codes are related to that... the dash would be doing odd things (speedo not working for one) if the speed sensor was iffy...

Post the 'actual' code and description ;P

<tuffty/>
 
Ill try get em up pal copy and paste em.

Two new things I need to add sorry 1. Hardly any brake pressure s3dave thinks I might if flipped a seal in the reservoir by bleeding with the brake pedal.
2. Is the turbo I bought was a eBay k04 so when I went to put the egt sensor in the tred that goes into the hot side won't grip so must be a different Fred it's in there now and has not popped out yet that is a boost leak if I'm right.
 
All I could find tuffty

17748/P1340/004928 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation


Possible Causes
Timing Belt/Chain incorrectly installed
Timing Chain probably lengthened
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Timing Belt/Chain installation
Use Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) to Check Timing Chain
Check/Replace Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
Check/Replace Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

ecu fault carnt really pin point owt apart from what tuffty posted and its somate in the ecu for shore
 
s3gazz said:
Ill try get em up pal copy and paste em.

Two new things I need to add sorry 1. Hardly any brake pressure s3dave thinks I might if flipped a seal in the reservoir by bleeding with the brake pedal.
2. Is the turbo I bought was a eBay k04 so when I went to put the egt sensor in the tred that goes into the hot side won't grip so must be a different Fred it's in there now and has not popped out yet that is a boost leak if I'm right.
Click to expand...

Not a different thread else it wouldn't screw in at all... chinese hotsides have a deeper EGT port and the nut bottoms out before it can tighten on the probe... I also assume you have had the wastegate ported? as you will know chinese hotsides suffer from horrendous boost creep...

Not a boost leak... its not boost on the exhaust side, its exhaust gas... its an exhaust leak... this will potentially take energy away from the turbine and could also potentially introduce air into the exhaust flow causing issues with AFR readings

<tuffty/>
 
How would I get around fixing my prob in then tuffty this is my main issue if ground the brass thing off the prob would it go in enought to screw up u recon.

going to take rocker cover off tomoz and see if there is 16 links on the chain inbetween the arrows as all the other timing bit is spot on Andrew fit cams so I didn't check derrr me
 
Cambelt will be a tooth out if Andrew built the head then as I doubt he got the 16 rollers bit wrong...

Best check the timing belt

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks I'm going to line trimming up tomoz and see what's out with rocker cover off.

just been out and put liquid gauge on to find on idle my car is running 14 psi so somate a miss
 
Can I get a dictionary please? You make me chuckle Gaz, it takes me about 5 minutes to "get" your messages! I'm obviously far to old...

if however it's an iPhone autocorrect then I feel your pain..
 
Lol ye dan your right iPhone crap hate it need rid of it does head in ha.
 
Just looked back at the txt god that's bad dan lol feel your pain trying to read it
 
When the cam pulley is at TDC its under tension from cyl 2 exhaust springs... if not careful the exhaust cam has a habit of rotating back a tooth while trying to get the belt on...

Its easily done and I have had this happen myself before... just need to double check and check again before pulling the pin on the tensioner damper...

<tuffty/>
 
Ye Carl pal I did it mate.

What I did was line bottom pulley up and gear box followed by rocker cover mark and can cog mark inline turned 2 revos then checked it all again with s3dave here with me hen pulled the pin all still in line so might of move under tension but its the 14 psi on idle I'm weird about
 
His liquid gauge is saying 14psi but is obv wrong on tickover, we have sorted it now 1 tooth out....Doh..so ****** easy to get wrong when that tensioner pulls it tight..
 
Thanks Dave pal for the help and well from now on ill always keep it a tooth out so when the pin is pulled it can pull trimming into place not line it all up and the it pulls it out lol.

took me and Dave hours so sort it one ****** tooth car drives better already and no code now great.

just need to sort the +14.3 psi on idle out and my EGT prob now

thanks so much for everyone's help guys
 
your egt probe..

your siggy says> BBT new k16 7+7 blade hybrid turbo

so whats occuring? you also say cheap chinese ebay turbo?

I've lost track of what you are or have fitted to your car?!?!?

eh?

me an "well confused"
 
Soz bill the turbo I send dan was a copy eBay k04.

now dans made me this spec

Compressor is a 2283 sized wheel but with a 7+7 blade design. Modified compressor housing. Custom made k16 sized turbine wheel 55mm/46.5mm . a ported and modified turbine housing. Upgraded bearing kit. 15psi uprated actuator.
 
hmm. there's a reason I trust nothing CN/copy wise and always dry build stuff off the car to confirm everything fits, check threads are clean and correct depth, etc...

you have to be one of the most unlucky dudes around with all this always happening to you
 
badger5 said:
hmm. there's a reason I trust nothing CN/copy wise and always dry build stuff off the car to confirm everything fits, check threads are clean and correct depth, etc...

you have to be one of the most unlucky dudes around with all this always happening to you
Click to expand...
The hotside had a bolt and washers in it when I got it, I left them in there. Maybe the previous owner just put any old bolt in there thus screwing up the threads inside.
 
Ye that could be the problem with that nut in there damaged thread.

well decided ill give it ago tomoz and if nothing work bung it back up and drill a hole in the down pipe and weld a boss on and put my EGT prob there.

Car has a boost leak now and then says my liquid gauge but nothing apart from EGT prob open
 
Wouldnt the fact that nothings in the egt probe hole cause a boost leak / vacuum leak.
 
Dani_B19 said:
Wouldnt the fact that nothings in the egt probe hole cause a boost leak / vacuum leak.
Click to expand...

been told this is not a boost leak pal so god nose why it's coming up with the fault pressure drop between turbo and throttle body
 
s3gazz said:
been told this is not a boost leak pal so god nose why it's coming up with the fault pressure drop between turbo and throttle body
Click to expand...

Its not a boost leak in the true sense no but as its a pre-turbine then boost will suffer as a result... this is subjective to whatever the boost request is of course...

17705 code is also attributed to a software fault and can be coded out... chances are this is the cause and tends to happen on tuned maps more often than std maps as a rule

<tuffty/>
 
So surely itll affect boost and vacu then paul?
 
Dani_B19 said:
So surely itll affect boost and vacu then paul?
Click to expand...

Exhaust leak? depends... if a little exhaust gas is being leaked out of a small hole then it 'could' prevent the turbine from spinning as fast as it could if sealed and thus 'lose' a little boost capability across the rev range... with vacuum its possible that the extra air drawn in will dilute the lambda reading and confuse the ECU causing the throttle plate to open more than normal dropping vacuum...

Either way its subjective but still should be fixed... I would only start worrying about lack of boost or iffy vacuum once the hardware issues have been resolved...

<tuffty/>
 
This morning I had a mess about with the probe nut and hey presto it screwed in. But then I did ten mile and checked it and its worked loose so what I'm thinking is crew it in again and try weld the nut to the hotside so it don't come loose. Job done if I can get to it ha .

next thing is do I need a map update or a new map to sort the 17705 fault out and it does say on vag com check DV but its a new revised OE one so carnt be that.

had it on my mate dyno this morning to See what's happening with fuel and its hitting 13.2 with the prob in the Exhurst bit rich I think could be the course of the white on the spark plugs.
 
13.2 is lean on power... white deposits on plugs suggests lean..

<tuffty/>
 
Sorry ye my bad lean then confused for some reason.

That too lean tuffty or ok for now till I've done my 1000 mile and got I mapped
 
Are you running with the N75 unplugged? why 1000 miles? Bill is running Stacey's in on the dyno IIRC...

<tuffty/>
 
New engine build tuffty new rings but same bearings and arp bolts.

would u say run in till the pal and yes n75 unplugged.

my mate said if I go up tomoz he will put few hundred mile on it for me on the dyno what u recon won't take it above 4000 rpm
 
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