A little info for you on ARP bolts for people that want to fit them

Andrew@A.L.D

May add NOS to 600+bhp S3.
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Since my engine damage i have been doing a lot of research into ARP bolts, As my standard main bearing bolts stretch under the forces my engine was making i thought it would be a good idea to upgrade and here is what i found.

If you google ARP 1.8t 20v main stud & nut kit you will most likely end up with a link to a US site like IE that shows you a good price on the part but you will have to pay tax and duties, shipping and a 3 week wait.

IE don't give out the part numbers as they claim they have them made for them? Ok can you get them in the UK? Yes Bill is one of many. Anyway i was nearly sold some main stud ( not by Bill ) that i was told were for the 1.8t 20v. I was told they were for all water cooled VW's but i found out ( Google again ) that they are the wrong ones when in fact you need ARP 201-5001 these are for a BMW S14 4 cylinder and are a perfect fit with only a little grinding to the sump as seen on Staceys thread page 29.

Another one is ARP flywheel bolts for the 1.8t, Google that and it will come up with a US site selling them $120 inc shipping ( £80 ) + taxies to pay on top. Again some research on Google and i found the sizes of the bolts needed for for the 1.8t and also a part number of 254-2901 on a US site but with that part number you get to many bolts and with finding out the size i found that you can buy just to one bolt if needed
http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=37447 or ARP Ford 4.6L 5.4L Modular V8 Flexplate Bolt and for a gran total of £28 for 6 bolts delivered.. not a bad saving don't you think?

So my advise is to everyone is to do your research on the parts before you buy as you want to get the right part and at the best price also​
 
I'm looking at getting some ARP main bolts, poss some 2000 conrod bolts as well. Still not sure what the plan is until I take my mullered block to my engine builder. Cheers for the info!!
 
I would say the limits of the standard 1.8t main bolts are about 500-600 bhp. I stretched mine with 531 bhp so i would say your fine.

If you have some steel rods then i have a spare set of ARP's 3/8 2000 big end bolts here doing nothing
 
I was just thinking of the fact that I can reuse them, will price up some more oem ones, only done 450 miles on the engine when it seized. Thanks for the offer, will see what the engine builder says/if the rod (IE) can be saved. Will be in touch if it can, cheers!!
 
Some more info for people using ARP bolts on their builds.

ARP crankshaft main studs - PART# 201-5001 ( as mentioned in previous post by Andrew, they made for BMW but work for 06A blocks )

Torque specs



ARP head BOLTS M10 - PART# 204-3901

Torque specs


ARP head STUDS M10 - PART# 204-4103

Torque specs



ARP conrod bolts - these are the 3/8 ARP 2000 bolt found on the IE rods.

Torque specs
Connecting Rod FAQ — IE AutoBlog




ARP flywheel bolts, as mentioned previously the bolts that you get from the BIG names seem to be the same as the ARP bolts for the Ford modular V8 (PART# 254-2901) and the Ford pinto (PART# 251-2901) I think Andrew bought the V8 ones and I have bought the Pinto ones, yet to be fitted.

Torque specs - they are the same :yes:
Modular V8 254-2901


Pinto 251-2901



ARP crankshaft timing gear bolt
- this is said to be an IE exclusive part. Not sure why its call a damper bolt when it bolts the crankshaft timing belt gear on :uhm:

ARP Crank Damper Bolt for 06A Late 1.8T/FSI engines

Torque specs
Torque to 74 ftlb + 1/4 turn when using 30wt motor oil

Torque to 78 ftlb + 1/4 turn when using loctite

(note... reeeeeeeeealy long breaker bar required for the 1/4 turn....)
 
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For the flywheel bolts I used loctite on the thread and arp lube under the head of the bolt and then torqued them to 60lbs/ft and then to 80lbs/ft but I also double doweled my crank to flywheel to stop them from moving, you can also use shim from IE that grips the flywheel and crank to stop any movement.
 
If you buy the #201-5001 meant for the bmw, should you torque it to 80ftlbs that the other ones mention?

Which other ones do you mean?

I would stick to the recommended ARP torque settings as per their product codes.
The oem bolts are torque'd to 65nm + 1/4 turn, which is about 48ft lbs + 1/4 turn.
 
'three equal steps'? So torque them 3 times with the 3rd being final?

I want the arp mains, but i dont like what it states about tolerance changes and it require a hone
 
Torque the flywheel bolts to 80lbs/ft, Speeding-G60 on vortex has done his to 95 on his drag audi 80

The have been tests to the flywheel bolt and they don't stretch till around 100lbs/ft

All others i've stuck to the correct specs
 
'three equal steps'? So torque them 3 times with the 3rd being final?

I want the arp mains, but i dont like what it states about tolerance changes and it require a hone

the equal steps they mean are all nuts up to 20ft lbs then 40ft lbs then 60ft lbs following the OEM bolting sequence.

I used the ARP mains on the first build an used plastic gauge to check the clearances and all the main and rod journals were within spec. I wrote them down but cant find the paper now.
When I took it apart all the main bearings still looked new, they were calico race numbers and the coating was perfect.
I will be building the new engine over this week and I will need to check the clearances again.
 
'three equal steps'? So torque them 3 times with the 3rd being final?

I want the arp mains, but i dont like what it states about tolerance changes and it require a hone

Don't worry about the hone as measured the mains when torqued down and they were fine

Its when you change the rod bolts to aged 625 then you more likely to need to hone the big end
 
Thread stuck for now because it contains useful information. Once sticky post is updated i'll put link in thereto be easily found
 
Which other ones do you mean?

I would stick to the recommended ARP torque settings as per their product codes.
The oem bolts are torque'd to 65nm + 1/4 turn, which is about 48ft lbs + 1/4 turn.

Ignore me, I never noticed it was 80ftlbs for the head stussh/bolts, thought it was 3 different part numbers for the mains....:$
 
A bit of an update with the ARP bolts for the flywheel. I bought the CM FX850SS kit which came with a billet steel flywheel and 10.9 flywheel bolts. I originally bought the 254-2901 bolts as recommended but they are too short to use with the flywheel. The 254-2901 are 20mm but the supplied bolts are 25mm and I wasn't comfortable with such little thread being used so used the 10.9 so I'm hoping they will be ok. I went for 85lb/ft with red loctite.

There's some good info in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5896408-ARP-Flywheel-bolt-Torque-spec

If you want an ARP bolt that is slightly longer then you want 254-2801 which is 25.40mm length under the head and have a shoulder just under head, this has the same 16mm 12 point head. Another choose is 156-2801 which is 24.8mm length, it also has a shoulder but has a 19mm 12 point head. All of these will work on the 1.8t/2.0t cars using an aftermarket single mass flywheel. The 10.9 flywheel bolt that we tend to use for aftermarket flywheels is 25mm in length, so as you can see both of the other ARP bolts I listed above will work.

2540577_600.jpg


In order left to right, 10.9 25mm bolt, ARP 254-2801 and ARP 156-2801.

I'm tempted to order the 254-2801 just to be safe while it's apart and replace the 10.9. Thoughts?
 
A bit of an update with the ARP bolts for the flywheel. I bought the CM FX850SS kit which came with a billet steel flywheel and 10.9 flywheel bolts. I originally bought the 254-2901 bolts as recommended but they are too short to use with the flywheel. The 254-2901 are 20mm but the supplied bolts are 25mm and I wasn't comfortable with such little thread being used so used the 10.9 so I'm hoping they will be ok. I went for 85lb/ft with red loctite.

There's some good info in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5896408-ARP-Flywheel-bolt-Torque-spec



I'm tempted to order the 254-2801 just to be safe while it's apart and replace the 10.9. Thoughts?

You can see my set up on page 2
 
Yeah, not sure I'm up for getting the drill out. Might just order some of the longer ARPs for piece of mind.