Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

Hi all,
Excuse me for my english :)
I've the same problem described in this thread, month ago i've pulled out my electric motor, cleaned the brushes and all work fine. Recently the problem come back again, I've pulled out again the electric motor and did the same things, but the roof not work.

I have noticed that there is a brush that is completely locked, while the other is free to move.
Must move both?
how do I unlock it?
how can I make sure it gets electricity to the motor?
how do I place the multimeter?
How can I accept myself that the motor is not completely broken?
by scanning with vag not find errors in the form of the roof


thank you all :)


HI arcer

All of these questions are answered previously on this thread see gaz 2nd nov 2012

Brush must be free to move
open the brush carrier by prying it open to loosen it
connect the multimeter to the two wires going to the motor but you have to reassemble the storage compartment and close boot to be able to test
If freeing the brushes does not work and the motor is getting power then you need a new one £180 from Audi
you will not find any error codes for this issue
 
ive got to say that you saved me over 2k. my hood was not closing so i printed out your procedure and gave it to the dealer. they refused to follow it at first and said it would cost 2.5k to repair. then when i told them to take out the motor so i could do it myself they did it for £300!!! thank you so much!!!!! made me realise how much they can con you. always thought you could trust a dealer but clearly you cant.
 
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ive got to say that you saved me over 2k. my hood was not closing so i printed out your procedure and gave it to the dealer. they refused to follow it at first and said it would cost 2.5k to repair. then when i told them to take out the motor so i could do it myself they did it for £300!!! thank you so much!!!!! made me realise how much they can con you. always thought you could trust a dealer but clearly you cant.

Hi audijon,

Probably the one of best pieces of feedback I've had on this topic!! Glad to know I've helped another fellow member. Just make sure that they have pried open the brush carriers or the problem will reoccur. Out of interest which dealership was it ? I should probably ask them for a job lol !

Enjoy the sun (!) when it arrives
 
hi there,

probably best i dont give the dealers name. lets just say they are in north cambs.

regards,

jon
 
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hi i have a56 reg a4 cab and the roof works the odd time now but most of the time says soft top cant be opend on dash..there is no motor noise so just wondering will the motar need cleaning or replacing for soft top?..can any any one help please
 
hi i have a56 reg a4 cab and the roof works the odd time now but most of the time says soft top cant be opend on dash..there is no motor noise so just wondering will the motar need cleaning or replacing for soft top?..can any any one help please

You need to scan the car with VCDS to see if there are any faults listed for the roof sometimes the sensors go faulty so it stops the roof working

If there are no faults listed Chances are its the motor. You need to gain access to the motor and check if your getting a voltage at the motor connections if you are chances are its the brushes on the motor

You need to follow the steps listed in previous threads to fix and clean the brushes of the motor
 
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Hi, unfortunately the roof on my wifes 56 reg A4 also has this fault where it unlatches and raises a few cm but goes no further - although it can then close again automatically from that position. In an effort to avoid getting ripped off by main dealer I took it to an independent who scanned faults and told me that the microswitch in the front locking motor assembly was intermittently failing, they quoted me £243 to replace. I already had my doubts about whether this would be the full story and after reading through all of these posts I wonder if there is nothing wrong with the switch and the fault actually lies with the pump motor. It appears to me that this is a much more common fault, but why would the diags indicate the switch as being faulty? Also, if it was the switch can anyone confirm if this can be replaced, as I thought it was an integral part of the front motor assy.

What would be the easiest way to check which of these is causing the fault or do you guys think it may be something else?

Thanks for any help guys.
 
Hi, unfortunately the roof on my wifes 56 reg A4 also has this fault where it unlatches and raises a few cm but goes no further - although it can then close again automatically from that position. In an effort to avoid getting ripped off by main dealer I took it to an independent who scanned faults and told me that the microswitch in the front locking motor assembly was intermittently failing, they quoted me £243 to replace. I already had my doubts about whether this would be the full story and after reading through all of these posts I wonder if there is nothing wrong with the switch and the fault actually lies with the pump motor. It appears to me that this is a much more common fault, but why would the diags indicate the switch as being faulty? Also, if it was the switch can anyone confirm if this can be replaced, as I thought it was an integral part of the front motor assy.

What would be the easiest way to check which of these is causing the fault or do you guys think it may be something else?

Thanks for any help guys.


Hi KO,

Sounds like its the motor fault, I've just repaired another last weekend. When the roof doesn't complete a full open close cycle this can trigger fault codes for the various switches giving "implausible" signals. According to the wiring diagram (in the main guide) there are two switches and they should be replaceable if not a minimum serviceable. Did he clear the codes and see if they reappeared? Did he check the switch measuring block values ?

If you have vagcom I can tell you how to check the switches in measuring blocks, if not you can use a multimeter to see if the motor is getting current or if the switches are faulty.

P.s. forget independents, even dealers have been wrong !!
 
Hi Krumz,

I don't have vagcom but a friend at work may have. For now I think I'll check with a multimeter. I take it I need to run a couple of wires from the motor terminals, out of the closed boot to a multimeter and then try to open roof. I guess I should not have a reading until the phase just after the roof unlatches and then read 12V DC?? If I do but nothing else happens does this prove that it is the motor? If I don't is there a fuse I should check?

(By the way, fantastic initial post mate.)
 
Hi Krumz,

I don't have vagcom but a friend at work may have. For now I think I'll check with a multimeter. I take it I need to run a couple of wires from the motor terminals, out of the closed boot to a multimeter and then try to open roof. I guess I should not have a reading until the phase just after the roof unlatches and then read 12V DC?? If I do but nothing else happens does this prove that it is the motor? If I don't is there a fuse I should check?

(By the way, fantastic initial post mate.)


cheers for the feedback :)

yes too all of the questions above, there are a few fuses, check the wiring diagrams I've posted on page 1.

You may be able to even get away with giving the motor a few taps to free the brushes and then test it. Words of advice, there is a clip holding down the boot side cover which you can get to by opening the convertible roof storage compartment, if it is the motor, don't forget to pry open the brush carriers to let the brushes move freely. And finally if it works, print of a copy and give it to your independent dealer ;)
 
Thanks for the tip. Hopefully I'll get a chance to check it out this weekend. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again.
 
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Audi A4 Cabriolet convertible 2008 58 reg 2.0L TDI S Line roof soft top issues - roof won't fold down and only moves a couples of inches then stops or is stuck. I looked at the hydraulic level on the pump reservoir - it was fine, I then thought I would check the brushes for wear, so I re-opened up the hydraulic motor pump assembly for the soft top & tested the brushes on the commutator to make sure there was plenty of wear left & I found one of them sticking in it's brass housing! so here's what I did...I got very small flat screw driver to slightly prize open the top gap on brass housing on the brush unit, the small brush immediately sprang out to touch the commutator unit, I tested it (its spring loaded) several times before putting the motor etc. back into place the roof now works fine.
Audi Newcastle wanted £600 to investigate & repair or replace the unit...
cheers, Micky Bell - Blyth, Northumberland.
 
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Just figured out how to post my issue on the forum - see above :arco:
 
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Thanks a million Krumz. The roof is sorted and the wife is delighted!
One brush was sticking badly - I freed it with WD40 and pryed the carrier open a bit, as you suggested.
I also thought it was worth cleaning the faces of the brushes with wet and dry. Cotton wool buds were helpful when cleaning the commutator. Hopefully the repair will last, but even if it doesn't I am glad I know for sure what the cause of the fault is.
If anyone else is experiencing the same issue I would strongly suggest that they keep their wallets in their pockets and follow the advice given in this thread - it is not very difficult and will save you a fortune.
It certainly seems to be a common issue (although the independent I went to failed to suggest it as a possibility)
 
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For anyone out there, I had the same issue as the initial poster with a 2003 A4, top unlatched, rear lifts but storage panel unlatches then stalls, basically doesn't lift more than an inch or so.

After following motor bush refurb guide, even purchased 2nd hand motor to eliminate, re sync'd, plugged into VAG diagnostic with similar codes to others, all resulted in no improvement.

It finally turned out that one of the motors/guides**? had worked loose, this sits within the narrow front panel situated directly above the head of the driver when the roof is initially unlatched.

(**it was with the mechanic by this stage who explained, so terminology may not be correct)

The mechanic identified that a grommet/bush had worn along with a very slight movement of the mechanism (again within the same front panel), enough to cause the issue in his view.

With new reworked bush/grommet and retightening the roof works perfectly since.

If nothing else I hope it helps someone out there to look in this area if all else fails.

Great thread for the enthusiast, Thanks for posting:arco:.
 
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Jay,I opened mine up over the weekend and found the same problem again (dirty commutator). When checking the brushes I found that one of the brushes was not moving freely in the carrier, leading to poor contact and in turn more arcing. I have since then put a drop of WD 40 on the brush carrier and worked it free. (See white arrow)
Picture 035.JPG
Hi Krumz, unfortunately I too have just developed this dreaded issue on my A4! Looking at your fantastic write up, I am going to attempt it this weekend! I just wanted to clarify how to free up the brushes... Once you drop the WD40 in the carrier, do you pry the brushes free with a screwdriver or does this cause damage to the brushes in the carrier?
 
Hi Krumz, unfortunately I too have just developed this dreaded issue on my A4! Looking at your fantastic write up, I am going to attempt it this weekend! I just wanted to clarify how to free up the brushes... Once you drop the WD40 in the carrier, do you pry the brushes free with a screwdriver or does this cause damage to the brushes in the carrier?

Hi Del,

Yes pry the brush carriers with a small screwdriver, as long as it does not contact the brushes you will not damage them, or they will get stuck again.
 
hi great write up, i have just joined and in need off help with my roof, when i press the down button the windows drop half way and the front upper roof will open but thats its, i have the launch diagun and if i clear all codes and then try it again the codes that come back are 00532 supply voltage and 02023 terminal 87 , i do hope someone can help me with this problam as its doing my head in lol cheers in advance
 
I cannot thank you enough. Im looking at a quote from Audi for £2353.22 for replacing the hydraulic pump. I thought, it cannot cost that much and stumbled across this thread.

Well i cleaned the commutator Saturday and the roof went down, brilliant - but then would not go back up.

Today i took the pump out again and this time took the actual electric part off, make for easier cleaning. I could also clean the brushes and oil them as they were no longer springy. When i went to clean the excess oil away with lighter fluid, you would not believe the amount of carbon deposit that i got off - this really was the problem with the pump after all.

Its a shame that mechanics who fault find are a thing of the past and technicians just want to replace a whole pump just because a computer tells them too.

This whole operation over the two days took me about 2-3 hours or cleaning etc, not a bad hourly rate hey.

Thanks again, ill ost some extra pics which you might find helpful.

Warren
 
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A before and after the first clean. You can see the black carbon buildup on the before pic (left).
Dirty cleanCLICK ON TEH PICT TO GET A LARGER VIEW

I took the electrical part off to make it easier to clean, heres whats inside after removing the two bolts.

BEWARE, THERE IS OIL IN HERE AND YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE PUMP SO THAT NONE SPILLS OUT
In pump

And cleaning these so the spring again (they just stayed in when pushed into the housing) is what worked for me.
Clean this

Thankyou thankyou thankyou

Warren
 
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Sorry to keep posting. But if anyone in the South London/Surrey area wants a hand with this, im happy to help.
 
Good result, nice to hear this thread has saved you £££.

My friends wife's 07 cabs roof has failed so hopefully this will work too.
 
hi great write up, i have just joined and in need off help with my roof, when i press the down button the windows drop half way and the front upper roof will open but thats its, i have the launch diagun and if i clear all codes and then try it again the codes that come back are 00532 supply voltage and 02023 terminal 87 , i do hope someone can help me with this problam as its doing my head in lol cheers in advance

Hi Cossiedave,

I have not come across this before. Check the wiring diagrams at the beginning of this post, you may not be getting power? Have you checked all the fuses.
 
A before and after the first clean. You can see the black carbon buildup on the before pic (left).
View attachment 13885CLICK ON TEH PICT TO GET A LARGER VIEW

I took the electrical part off to make it easier to clean, heres whats inside after removing the two bolts.

BEWARE, THERE IS OIL IN HERE AND YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE PUMP SO THAT NONE SPILLS OUT
View attachment 13887

And cleaning these so the spring again (they just stayed in when pushed into the housing) is what worked for me.
View attachment 13886

Thankyou thankyou thankyou

Warren

Hello Warren, thanks for the feedback and glad this post was useful, may I just add that (for the benefit of other users) removing the motor from the hydraulic assembly is not necessary (to avoid spilling oil) and you may choose to pry open the brush carriers with a small screw driver to allow the brushes to spring back freely.

P.S. you could always go back to Audi and teach them something they dont know ;)
 
Hi roof now working, ran another feed to the control module and hey presto it worked, rear boot still don't open on remote and drivers seat still doesn't do any thing but well chuffed roof is working
 
Hi roof now working, ran another feed to the control module and hey presto it worked, rear boot still don't open on remote and drivers seat still doesn't do any thing but well chuffed roof is working

Sounds like a power issue, what is your year, engine and gbox code and I will post the Base Equipment wiring diagrams for you
 
thanks mate its 2002,2.4 v6 with multitronon box, i have the latest auto data disc, i carnt get the seat to move to get the bolts out lol
 
Well the sun was out yesterday and i put the roof down at lunch with no problems, however when i went home it stopped working.

I guess i will have to strip it all down again and prise the brush carriers apart a bit, i didn't do that last time.

Does that fact that it worked for a while probably mean its ok?

I will go and run a scan with my vagcom at lunch and see what it shows. Was there any extra tests i can run to test the roof?"

Cheers

W
 
Well the sun was out yesterday and i put the roof down at lunch with no problems, however when i went home it stopped working.

I guess i will have to strip it all down again and prise the brush carriers apart a bit, i didn't do that last time.

Does that fact that it worked for a while probably mean its ok?

I will go and run a scan with my vagcom at lunch and see what it shows. Was there any extra tests i can run to test the roof?"

Cheers

W

Hi Warrren, prying apart the carriers should stop the problem reoccurring, let me know how you get on and if you need anything drop me a line.
 
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Ill pry the carriers apart and get back to you. In the meantime, heres relevant scan data if you spot anything untoward, could you let me know please?



Address 26: Auto Roof Labels: 8H0-959-255.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8H0 959 255 A
Component and/or Version: VSG B6 CABRIO 6894
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code: WSC 00672 785 00200
VCID: 346D6D74542070E
1 Fault Found:

00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

And if i measure blocks, heres the log:

Address 26: Auto Roof (8H0 959 255 A)

13:36:36 Group 001: Convertible Top Status (Actual)
Not Oper. Convertible Top Control Switch
11011010 Switches && Positions I
10 1010 Switches && Positions II
230.0 Top Frame Position (G356)

13:36:36 Group 002
0.0 km/h Vehicle Speed
11.70 V Voltage (Terminal 30)
Lid close Rear Lid Contact Switch
00000000 Window Regulator Operation

13:36:36 Group 003: Window Positions
0.5 Window Position Driver's Door
0.0 Window Position Passenger Door
0.0 Window Position Rear Left Door
0.0 Window Position Rear Right Door

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 26: Auto Roof (8H0 959 255 A)

13:37:34 Group 001: Convertible Top Status (Actual)
Not Oper. Convertible Top Control Switch
11000110 Switches && Positions I
10 1010 Switches && Positions II
227.0 Top Frame Position (G356)

13:37:34 Group 002
0.0 km/h Vehicle Speed
11.60 V Voltage (Terminal 30)
Lid close Rear Lid Contact Switch
10101010 Window Regulator Operation

13:37:34 Group 003: Window Positions
45.5 Window Position Driver's Door
46.5 Window Position Passenger Door
58.0 Window Position Rear Left Door
57.0 Window Position Rear Right Door

 
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Hi Warrren, prying apart the carriers should stop the problem reoccurring, let me know how you get on and if you need anything drop me a line.



Last sunday I've unlocked soft top of my car....but still have not figured out where to put the screwdriver to pry. Ok in brush carrier but WHERE???
 
Last sunday I've unlocked soft top of my car....but still have not figured out where to put the screwdriver to pry. Ok in brush carrier but WHERE???

Arcer,

Page 1 there is a picture with a white arrow further down, you will see there is a slot in the brush carrier for the cable, use a small screwdriver and pry it open from there. Then check the brushes are moving freely.
 

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