Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

[<tuffty/>]

On top mounts Bill normally runs both across the top..

On my underslung the inlet from the block went to the block side port and the outlet went up and round the cam belt side of the engine...

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers mate grate help and have given me a few ideas

Any advice on a particular heat sleaving as seen a couple on the bay and currently reading the merlons catalogue?

Pretty sure I'm going to run the oil drain through runners 3&4 in the end as which every way I look at it it's going to have to run in real close vacinity to the runners, down pipe or more likely the wastegate outlet pipe, so am going to drop it the most direct/vertical route and protect it as well as I can

 

[<tuffty/>]

I wouldn't run anything anywhere near the runners dude... even with ceramic coating its gonna be hot... it maybe worth while having a chat with Bill over the drain as it could be an issue when the DP and wastegate pipes are made...

I would use stainless tubing for the water lines until well out of the way of hot stuff... thats based on personal experience as well as what we do for customer cars...

Heat shielding wise... once out the way of the really hot stuff using the SS tubing then this kinda stuff in an appropriate size...
Merlin - THERMAL SLEEVE 30MM - CTEK-30

The OE water pipes are hard lines too remember and the OE return from the turbo is only rubber once its pretty much past the cam belt cover...

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Yeah all the pipes are going to be stainless hard lines for as much as possible, have previously spoke to bill about it but its looking like whichever route I run the drain its going to be a lot closer to the runners than what I'd desire

Was hoping with the ceramic coating, then using hardlines with decent wrap around them would be enough to get away with it?

Will dig up some info and pics from earlier on in the thread once I'm home

 

[superkarl]

prob with ****** oil drains is that garrett say it HAS to be vertical. Any chance you could put a 45 degree off the turbo toward the fire wall THEN go vertically down toward the sump?
looking at your pics it doesnt look too tight between 3 and 4 runner

 

[<tuffty/>]

you have a 15 deg allowance in tilt of the CHRA to prevent pooling but remember to factor in the actual tilt of the engine too as they lean back in transverse applications

<tuffty/>

 

[superkarl]

and 20 degree maximum tilt for the coolant lines which are 90 degrees to the oil lines on the garrett chras.
suppose 15 degrees for both oil and coolant is enough to play with

 

[StaceyS3]

IIRC when i measured the engine has a 15 degree tilt back and garrett advise having the water outlet level or preferably higher than the inlet but will probably all be aranged around where the oil drain is best positioned

I'm just going to bombard you with pics now and reel them off of photobucket as some of these really don't give you a concept of the amount of room there is (sometimes more than is percieved and others a lot less)

Can see me pointing to where am thinking of dropping it through (theres more room than there looks but not loads)

Can see even if you bring it backwards to go round the mani it will extremely close to the wastegate take off and expect the wastegate dump will run in the gap between the transfer and mani as that would be the other route in mind although some of the run would end up near horizontal

All the pipes will hopefully end up stainless hard pipes at each end and majority of length with some stainless braid in the middle to give it some flex....well thats the plan not sure if will actually end up tha way

 

[Broken Byzan]

Slightly off topic, Have you measured clearence from valve to piston with the new cams yet? And are you using VVT on them?

 

[StaceyS3]

Slightly off topic, Have you measured clearence from valve to piston with the new cams yet? And are you using VVT on them?

I havent no and to be honest don't really now how to apart from removing the head and some how putting both the head and block in there relative positions and measuring how far the valve sticks out?

It did say that my cams can be run with VVT on BobQ's site so am hoping thats good to go by?

It is also another reason i went with JE pistons in the end over Mahle and wisseco as they have valve relief pockets?

 

[Sam_]

What's wrong with some decent heat sleeving and run it between the runners?

CRD here build drag engines, road engines etc and here's a recent RB26 single turbo build...

As an aside, if you've not heard of them, they built the #2 quickest GTR in the world, the infamous GTR700. A monster. Youtube it

Edit: how could I forget Jun: "DREAMCRUSHER" JUN 9 second R32 GTR - YouTube

 

[<tuffty/>]

Difference is Sam on a drag strip or on the road the heat cycles and the duration the heat is present is small compared to track usage... if Stacey plans to use the car on the track then consideration must be given to sustained heat protection...

If there is no other option but to run components close to hot stuff then obviously you try to protect it as best you can but running components away from hot stuff is always the preferable option

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

They've built plenty of track/race cars too.

Do you normally use some fire sleeve over the top of the hardline? Otherwise surely it's still pretty vulnerable to heat?

 

[badger5]

They've built plenty of track/race cars too.

Do you normally use some fire sleeve over the top of the hardline? Otherwise surely it's still pretty vulnerable to heat?

It will burn thru.
been there, done that

hard pipes past hot stuff far more reliable long term

 

[StaceyS3]

Problem i can see guys is which ever way i run it its going to be pretty close to high heat sources, obviously some worse than others, but the slightly cooler options then seem to be a lot more horizontal/almost horizontal which would have thought wouldn't help if the oil is flowing slowly or staying in hot areas for longer periods allowing it to heat more?

Bill where do you think the wastegate pipe will run looking at the positioning in the pics?

I know on others youve run down the other side of the trans tunnel to the downpipe but that was on fwd iirc, my only other thought was it will have to run over the transfer and join the downpipe in that area?

 

[StaceyS3]

Am in need of buying some oil and usually buy in bulk but am really unsure of what to go for?

Euro have got an offer for 30% castrol oil at the mo and wondered if it was a good opertunity to stock up on 10 or so litres of oil?

Most people go for and reconmend 5w 40 but wasn't sure to use that on a fairly new engine?

My other question is most of the 5w 40's seem to quote to be for Diesel engines but would this be alright?

On another note managed to get my calipers assembled

Just got to buy some discs, pads, lines and mounting carriers to fit them now lol

 

[<tuffty/>]

Don't use any form of synthetic oil until run in mate.... I am assuming Bill is running the engine in on the dyno once the DP is done?... mineral oil first as the rings etc need to wear in etc then over to 5W40... not a fan of 5w30, its like water... thicker oil is better for track use as it doesn't go thin when hot... Bill uses 15w50 iirc in the Ibiza

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers mate forgot to mention its not for running in etc as like you say bill will be doing it and I've still got some cheap tesco mineral oil from last time

The oil will be for normal running, track days....basically all the time once is mapped

Any particular 5w 40 as a lot of them specify to be for Diesel engines?

This one seem alright even though says diesel?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/...gineoils/5w40-engine-oil/?521771341&0&cc5_248

Cheers PT

 

[<tuffty/>]

I use Quantum Platinum mate... not sure of the exact details but Bill buys it from TPS in bulk (20ltr containers)

http://www.thetradepartsspecialists...02131 Quantum Platinum Product Data Sheet.pdf

www.vwspares.co.uk

I believe the 5w30 is the normal spec for Audi petrol engines on AVS etc and the 5w40 for dervs... but 5w40 can be used for fixed interval servicing on petrol engines...

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers Paul

Had been using quantum 5w 40 in the past and gone through a few gallons of it, but wasn't sure if some castrol edge was worth getting whilst 30% off?

On another note my clutch is fudged and the added torque from turning the boost up (liquid says 330ftpb) has caused my clutch to slip which had thought the revs had a little twitch a couple of times recently but loaded it up tonight in 4th around 3500-4000 and it repeatedly slipped right round to 6000+

So need to go back to the n75 and possibly wind boost down in unisettings for further notice

 

[<tuffty/>]

Cars tuned to this level are always temperamental... only going to get worse when you start using it on track... second car ftw...

<tuffty/>

 

[Westy]

Cars tuned to this level are always temperamental... only going to get worse when you start using it on track... second car ftw...

<tuffty/>

If only someone had said right at the start that modding a car would end in needing to run 2 cars!

 

[StaceyS3]

Lol I will need a second car shortly as am now looking for a better job but downside is my current one is 1.8miles from home so that's why have got away with it so far

Suppose that clutch has lasted just over 2 years lol, am hoping I will still get away with putting the 6 puk friction plate in with the used fly and pressure plate.....and it'll be able to cope with the new build?

 

[Jason.s]

Some fat heavy lumps of metal await you sir lol

 

[StaceyS3]

Lovely....you sir are a diamond

 

[StaceyS3]

Discs have turned up (cheers jase) although not had a chance to open them yet so no pics

Had a few little niggles with the car this week including blowing off two boost hoses and having a car that ran like ****e, it kept going very lean as soon was coming on boost so drove it like a granny home from London

I was seriously considering breaking it and selling up as all has got a bit much with loads and loads of little problems and faults on the car where it has been neglected due to family and building the engine

I then reset the fault codes on the liquid to clear a reoccurring evap fault and the car felt 10x better

I then gave it some real man boost and started to fall in love again until the front brakes started to judder

Little update

Took the comp cover off to fit a n75 feed, which revealed this beautiful but of art

Machined ally nipple pressed into comp cover

I tried to see if my surge tank would fit where I had hoped but its going to be to tight to get fittings etc on so its back to the drawing board

There's other places that it will fit up front like in the drivers Smic location but would be worried having it in a vulnerable location in event of a crash?

May just run AN lines from the inline 044...will think...umm

 

[Westy]

I feel your pain with all the niggles and just wanting an easy life haha. I think the answer is to buy another car for a run about.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Can't you fit the surge tank in the spare wheel well?

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

Aw, no full fat 4" housing

I await what you do with the surge tank so I'll copy it. Is there no where under the boot floor? Placement is one thing, then there's all the plumbing

 

[StaceyS3]

I feel your pain with all the niggles and just wanting an easy life haha. I think the answer is to buy another car for a run about.

It's been mentioned and now seriously bein considered as doing a bit of extra work up the city here and there as well as looking for a new main employment so more traveling than my usual 1.8mile commute

 

[StaceyS3]

Can't you fit the surge tank in the spare wheel well?

<tuffty/>

Can do but am hoping to retain the spare wheel as have had issues in the past when I didn't have one....I had an alloy wheel fracture with no spare alloys or space saver at the time and the AA refused to recover the car as the car should have a suitable spare

Am going to have a think for a bit and see if I can get creative?

 

[StaceyS3]

Aw, no full fat 4" housing

I await what you do with the surge tank so I'll copy it. Is there no where under the boot floor? Placement is one thing, then there's all the plumbing

I wish I'd got the full sized housing but when I ordered it, I originally had gone for underslung....although I could have probably changed it when I changed the turbine housing?

If you come up with some ideas then fire away mate as am unsure of where its gonna go?

 

[superkarl]

smaller, slimmer washer bottle would solve it.

 

[AudiS3-Turbo]

Great read, loving the work gone into this, hope to follow this and go the same way at somepoint

 

[Sam_]

I wish I'd got the full sized housing but when I ordered it, I originally had gone for underslung....although I could have probably changed it when I changed the turbine housing?

If you come up with some ideas then fire away mate as am unsure of where its gonna go?

Mine came with both but to be honest, it probably won't see an engine for a while

I wasn't really sure to be honest. I'll need to tackle it pretty soon though. Are you going to use the stock lines and just plumb the standard intank filter to the surge tank and then surge tank to the stock filter?

 

[StaceyS3]

smaller, slimmer washer bottle would solve it.

That was thought about and I know some of the other mk4 chassis cars have got a smaller water bottle but not sure in which measurement is smaller?

Original idea was to relocate the power steering reservior to under the screenwash tank in the smic position but is rather tight

I had considered getting rid of the expansion bottle and putting an inline filler before the rad for the coolant but i like the idea of having the low level warning to much to do so....unless can find something to replace it with a level warning sensor of something could install one in?

 

[StaceyS3]

Great read, loving the work gone into this, hope to follow this and go the same way at somepoint

Cheers for the kind words and glad youve enjoyed it

Look forward to seeing the build

 

[StaceyS3]

Mine came with both but to be honest, it probably won't see an engine for a while

I wasn't really sure to be honest. I'll need to tackle it pretty soon though. Are you going to use the stock lines and just plumb the standard intank filter to the surge tank and then surge tank to the stock filter?

Original plan was to have stock lines to the bay with OEM filter in the original place then adapt to AN fittings to run and connect to the surge tank, the surge tank will then feed from the 044 outlet - fuel rail - adjustable FPR - return back to the surge tank

All of the AN hoses and fittings will probably be in -6AN although had considered -8 from pump to rail?

 

[superkarl]

The return lines for the fuel rail need to be sbstantial ive read. seeing as the fpr just regulates whats going back to the tank. -6 fuel feed. -8 return perhaps.

As for a washer bottle, your getting pretty good at the fab work, make an alloy one??

 

[Sam_]

Wouldn't there be less fuel going back to the tank? Especially after the fuel needed to keep a GTX in order