15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

Yeh its looks so MUCH better now huh. Now I can see my vision for it. My Wossner pistons have arrived :) Engine building today all day, pics later...

Great news.

Pistons and rods for mine took ages to arrive,but seeing it all come together is just the best.
 
So I started rebuilding the engine today. The block had already been prepared and painted ready for install.


DSC_0066.jpg




DSC_0067.jpg




Shells fitted ready for crank

DSC_0069.jpg




Engine rebuild paste liberally applied

DSC_0070.jpg




Test fit of crank after a good clean of the journals

DSC_0072.jpg




****** thrusts are the wrong ones Dohh. The ones that came out are 2.44mm and these are 2.00mm


DSC_0074.jpg



DSC_0075.jpg




Ill fit the pistons then as I cant do the crank now :( I had already fitted the rods.


DSC_0078.jpg




Pistons nice and snug


DSC_0079.jpg


Nice :)


DSC_0081.jpg




Ill get new thrusts tommorow so I can finish it off. I cleaned loads of parts ready to go back on.

Mark.
 
That looks superb Mark.
.
Considering the state it was in when you got it,you've done an amazing job so far.
 
One thing im finding odd.

On my front subframe there are 4 main mounting holes that are quite large. M10s go in these but the hole is MUCH bigger and thus the subframe can move around as I bolt it up, there dont seem to be any locating lugs so what am I missing here? I want to bolt it up square of course?

Mark
 
Awesome, Awesome work.

I wish i could be there to assist you. Cant wait for the next post

When are you looking at getting it completed by ?

Kev
 
I am hoping to make a test day at Donny on April 25th for the race on April 29th. Let's see how this week progresses. The car should be back from the bodyshop this week and I should be ready by then to put the front end back in with the new engine. I just bought some special ally cleaner so i can clean the gearbox up while its out.

Then I need to fit the seat, paint the calipers white and bleed the brakes, finish off the inside with the new switch panel we are designing and then its off to NMS for interior loom and map.

I took the decision to refit the steel doors, tailgate and bonnet to make the car a bit heavier and thus allow me to let the engine breathe a bit more as I am only allowed 200bhp/ton at front wheels.

Haldex will be switchable on the steering column which will be nice for starts and when it's damp.
 
Sounds great, cant wait to see the final product.

I am sure the engine will be pushing more than that so its going to have a lot of restrictions on the mapping ?

May i ask why you are going for this class and not something faster ?

I saw in a previous post that you estimated with the carbon doors and bonnet it would be around 1.1 tons ?

What are you looking at with the steel doors etc ?


Kev
 
What are you planning on doing with the doors?
 
What are you planning on doing with the doors?

The doors tailgate and bonnet I will sell. I am running in Team trophy as it is a natural progression from Track Day Trophy and I know them all and it's great fun and a good paddock.

Weight wise I think 1.25 with me in it and ten litres of fuel but we will see once it is all back together.
 
The doors tailgate and bonnet I will sell. I am running in Team trophy as it is a natural progression from Track Day Trophy and I know them all and it's great fun and a good paddock.

Weight wise I think 1.25 with me in it and ten litres of fuel but we will see once it is all back together.

I may be interested in some of that if the fit and condition are ok for an S3 8P.

Let me know around sale time maybe.
 
Come and look at them now buddy :) I am in Peterborough.

Not too far.

Mine is slightly unroadworthy right now as the suspension is in bits. Lol.

When its all back together it would be great.
 
So I got a bit more done and as you can see the dirty parts from the floor have turned into clean parts on the enigne :)


Crank looking good all bolted up now.

DSC_0066.jpg




DSC_0067.jpg



Oil pump fitted

DSC_0069.jpg



DSC_0070.jpg



DSC_0072.jpg



Let's start on fitting and timing up the cams then


DSC_0071.jpg



DSC_0073.jpg






DSC_0076.jpg



DSC_0077.jpg



DSC_0079.jpg



DSC_0080.jpg



DSC_0081.jpg



My parts pile seems to be getting smaller :)

DSC_0078.jpg



Ill get some more done tommorow as the selant turns up at Audi for doing the sump and new studs for the exhaust manifold. I am going to fully build the engine and gearbox up so i can just slot it back in in one movement. Then I only have to connect the exhaust and gearbox shafts up :)


Mark.
 
Yet more automotive naughtiness......very nice indeed.
 
One thing im finding odd.

On my front subframe there are 4 main mounting holes that are quite large. M10s go in these but the hole is MUCH bigger and thus the subframe can move around as I bolt it up, there dont seem to be any locating lugs so what am I missing here? I want to bolt it up square of course?

Mark

Check out Tyrol Sport subframe collars. They are made to fill the gaps and keep the subframe from shifting.
 
One thing im finding odd.

On my front subframe there are 4 main mounting holes that are quite large. M10s go in these but the hole is MUCH bigger and thus the subframe can move around as I bolt it up, there dont seem to be any locating lugs so what am I missing here? I want to bolt it up square of course?

Mark
Sealey VS3900 - Subframe Locating Pin Set 4pc --- Sealey & Draper Tools - CCW-Tools

To the book the idea being that these are fitted before you remove the subframe then you can replace it in the same position and not loose the suspension alignment, but they can be used to centrally align the subframe in your case.

They are repros of VAS tools, not something someone has ****** up.
 
Check out Tyrol Sport subframe collars. They are made to fill the gaps and keep the subframe from shifting.

They look to big buddy. My Sub is ally. If that's all you need though ill get some custom ones made up by Radical precision, my mate owns it. They are modifying my sub so my power steering rack fits anyways by moving the rack mount holes.

I wonder why Audi made it such a daft design? Unlike the Germans that. I mean why not just have an M10 in err like and M10 hole.
 
Should be spigot'd and bolted imo. But its probably done as you can get small camber equalisation by moving the subframe.
 
Should be spigot'd and bolted imo. But its probably done as you can get small camber equalisation by moving the subframe.

Yeh I agree. Ill get Mik to make me that brass bush kit up while he is modyfying my rack mount points.
 
Also

Can I get a sequential box for an 8P? We are looking at taking this to 24 hour spec after this years racing.
 
The car is slowly coming together. The engine has been a ***** though, so many mis matched parts on this engine it's a joke to get the right parts for it but im nearly there! The timing belt is off a Mk2 golf gti 16 valve LOL. 147 teeth.


Sump dry fit and also nice and clean thanks to Ally clean :)

DSC_0066.jpg



DSC_0067.jpg



DSC_0068.jpg



Manifold being tidied up

DSC_0069.jpg


Sump fitted

DSC_0086.jpg



DSC_0087.jpg



My bottom pulley had a knackered key in (fault number 50) it so I bought a new one.

DSC_0090.jpg



Now that engine looks better huh?

DSC_0093.jpg



DSC_0094.jpg



DSC_0095.jpg




Fitting the fire supression system in. 4 nozzles to the engine bay

DSC_0090.jpg



DSC_0091.jpg



DSC_0092.jpg



DSC_0093.jpg



DSC_0094.jpg



DSC_0095.jpg



DSC_0096.jpg



My subframe being modified

DSC_0098.jpg



My mates rather large lathe, this is one of 3 this size!!

DSC_0099.jpg



My modified cam pulley to bring it out 3.5mm so the belt dont lip. This is because the Audi 80 head does not line up correctly with the bottom pulley. The cam pulley was on the wrong way around to counter this but that was not an elegant solution for me.

DSC_0100.jpg



DSC_0101.jpg



Peddle box fitted with some anti slip flooring.


DSC_0102.jpg




More to come :)
 
Also

Can I get a sequential box for an 8P? We are looking at taking this to 24 hour spec after this years racing.

You might give Sadev a try but they will be shockingly expensive and I'm not sure the 4wd version will fit.

Also Quaife don't do one.

Another thing you could do is drop Backdraft and AMDTuning a line and both may have some advice.
 
You guys are in pboro that awesome I'm down the road may have to pop in some time
 
Wait this is in peterborough?! What the heck how havent i noticed that, its where i live!
 
Man there are a LOT of jobs on this rebuild. It has been more work that I thought simply because I remove something and see it needs redesigning so its taking a lot longer than a normal reuild would. Anyway here are some parts I had made:)

My stainless subframe mount kit, a much better solid dogbone and a nicer cap for the hall switch.

DSC_0090.jpg




I decided to fit the H&R anti roll bars I had lying around. For this of course you re-use the standard mounts.

DSC_0091.jpg


If you are careful you can drill out the riv nut using a 13mm drill and still use the nut part again :)

DSC_0094.jpg



DSC_0093.jpg



DSC_0092.jpg



DSC_0095.jpg



This is my modified subframe so the mount for my rack does not push the gaitor off the end like it was before!

DSC_0096.jpg



DSC_0097.jpg


My bushes fitted. 1mm stainless. You have to loosen the whole subframe for these to fit nicely

DSC_0098.jpg



This is the engine just about complete

DSC_0100.jpg



DSC_0101.jpg



DSC_0102.jpg



DSC_0103.jpg



DSC_0104.jpg



DSC_0105.jpg



DSC_0106.jpg



DSC_0107.jpg



And back in the car

DSC_0108.jpg



LOADS more to do :) This is a tentative list of jobs left over!

1. Doors need rehanging
2. Door upper window frames need putting in doors
3. Plastic windows need fitting to door frames unless you use the frame the window is in if those frames are as good as the other frames that came out of the good steel doors.
4. Rear steel tailgate needs fitting
5. Front steel bonnet needs fitting
6. Rear tailgate plastic window needs taking out of carbon tailgate and fitting in steel one
7. Front bumper support black panel needs fitting. This might need a lot of fettling and cutting so it fits and the rad and intercooler fit underneath it. The other front panel (The one without the ally bumper bit on it)
8. Front bumper needs fitting securely to front panel and wings
9. Front bonnet pins need fitting, these can be taken from the carbon bonnet
10. Rear bumper needs fitting (this was held on with wood chip screws LOL)
11. Exhaust needs fitting. There is a bit on the back box that needs cleaning and welding as it is leaking there. Just a dab of mig should do it
12. Front callipers need balance pipes making and fitting on the bottoms.


1. Carbon door cards need fitting by using M6 riv nuts and M6 blue counter sunk with blue washer I guess one in each corner, Door centres can be cut out but leave room for mounting door card and door frame mounts
2. Carbon door handles need fitting to top centre of doors with M6 riv nuts and blue fixings
3. The two screen heaters need fitting so they point up at screen as close the screen, then a small cut out needs making in dash panel so they just poke though each side.
4. Brakes need bleeding front and rear.
5. Clutch needs bleeding


1. Headlights need fitting if they arrive (I ordered new ones as again the other ones were cut etc)
2. Seat needs fitting
3. Caliper's need painting white with Foliatec kit
4. Drain diff oil
5. Drain haldex oil
6. Replace haldex filter
7. Clean engine loom



Repair the other driveshaft with kit in box
Fit both shafts tourque to 70Nm and I think 140nm outer bolt (need to check)
Pipe up water system and intercooler system with cleaned samco hoses and mikalor clips
Fit water expansion tank lower down left side so bonnet shuts
Fit catch tank system right side so bonnet shuts
Fit dash
Fit centre console
Fit switch panel to centre console with M8 riv nut
Fit rear fuel pump and filter back underneath car on the hangers
Run pipe through car secured with M5 riv nuts and P clips
Pipe in swirl pot in engine bay and high pressure fuel pump in engine bay
Fit engine loom
Get interior loom made
Map car
Corner weight car

Win races!!!!


Pheww not much left to do then
 
The engine work is looking superb....you've done an amazing job of cleaning that up and sorting it out.
.
The whole thing is completely transformed,and I hope it goes as good as it beginning to look!
 
The engine work is looking superb....you've done an amazing job of cleaning that up and sorting it out.
.
The whole thing is completely transformed,and I hope it goes as good as it beginning to look!

I have done my best :)
 
Keep checking this post daily always egar to see your progression.

Had a look at your S3 Alex must say AMD tuning did an amazing job. I wish we had high quality work like that in ZA.

Kind Regards,
 
whats gonna be quicker, this or s3alex's s3?!
They're very different cars to be honest.

Despite the power difference that 15Degrees will run for the track,I'd expect his to be quicker around a track as it's going to be lighter,and purely focussed to the track,rather than carrying around air-con,leather,rear seats and all that sort of stuff.

There's also the matter of the drivers...my track experience is zero!


What I'm really interested in is seeing how different people put their cars together,and how we all get around similar problems in different ways,so we can all find answers that others use.

Keep checking this post daily always egar to see your progression.

Had a look at your S3 Alex must say AMD tuning did an amazing job. I wish we had high quality work like that in ZA.

Kind Regards,

Many thanks Kev......thats very kind,and I can only say I agree with your comments about AMD.
 
  • Like
Reactions: big harty