Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

bent wrist pin? wow Tool Steel JE ones next?
what cyl pressure was that running at I wonder?
extra stroke loading do you think maybe? some acute rod angles on the big crank....

Has done well to bend one....glad I've got tool steel ones in mine :)
 
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Just noticed the grip plate from IE

Integrated Engineering EKagrip 6 Bolt Flywheel Friction Disk

Same thing from Audi for £2.51 plus vat, just picked one up today
 
If had of known would have got one from vag but as said in the texts they're different thicknesses IE 0.27mm Vag 1.2mm although I'm sure it won't hurt the extra 1mm

Live and learn ;)
 
Little Update

The engine is fine after emptying its coolant and getting rather hot :yahoo:

Received my AGN head...better late than never

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Am a bit peaved as was advertised with port dimensions of a largeport and turns out its a smallport, so am in the process of disscussing this with the seller

Managed to dissapear for 20 mins to change the rocker over at work :)

I cant run the breather how i had originally planned, which was to run the block directly to the front of the agn cover through the runners and then another feed from the normal side port to the catch can

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Will just run the normal config of the 2 tee-ing into each other then to the catch can, have knocked out the normal breather nipple and tapped it to 1/2npt thread to run AN fittings

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Am going to swap the AGN vvt with my current one as i know some of the history of this one and it looks newer, when i do so i will drop in the agn inlet cam and will run that in my car for now as not sure when the new engine will be going in

There generally seems to be pretty good gains from just changing the inlet cam on vortex and as its easy to do so when changing the vvt thought why not it must be worth a go and should net some gains even if is only a little
 
Oh and forgot to add the inevitable has happened......i have burst another turbo outlet pipe, which always seems to happen when racing hot hatches lol

Have ordered a nomex straight coupler to replace it as this has lasted quite a while where as normal Mrsilicone couplers only lasted a couple of weeks, i will be wrapping it with exhaust wrap to make it last longer and will look into fabbing a heatshield if i dont change it all over shortly
 
I've seen a few people do that with the AGN setups. Well tidy. Tempted to get one myself but bolt down coilpacks would require some work. Better breather outlet position though for sure...
 
I do love the smoothness of the ang cover, it does get the occasional caressing ;)

The engine would have been going in very soon but my mapping and downpipe fund (which i've had put aside for nearly a year) is going down day by day for mortgage and legal fees :(
 
Yeah will sell the 6 pots on, I love them but looking at having to pay >£300 for ds3000's for them each set of pads is a crippling thought where as can get them for £150 for these an they're still a pretty big caliper with big pistons (44mm and 38mm iirc)

They will still be run on r32 discs so may be dropping you a pm shortly as mine have got worse and worse to the point that one hard stop and they're shaking the car to bits lol
 
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Yeah will sell the 6 pots on, I love them but looking at having to pay >£300 for ds3000's for them each set of pads is a crippling thought where as can get them for £150 for these an they're still a pretty big caliper with big pistons (44mm and 38mm iirc)

They will still be run on r32 discs so may be dropping you a pm shortly as mine have got worse and worse to the point that one hard stop and they're shaking the car to bits lol

Especially with the way you abuse your brakes ;) What calipers are the new ones?
 
Especially with the way you abuse your brakes ;) What calipers are the new ones?

Yeah my brakes do take quite a hammering, all 4 of my discs need replacing which will mean am onto my 3rd rear pair and 5th front :faint: lol

They're 996 turbo calipers which will still have plenty of power with the size of the pistons that are in them ;)
 
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yellows for you Stacey? given the grief you give em... Good Luck!

Was only considering them ;)

I will be going for ds3000's on the 996 turbo calipers but am unsure of what discs to go for as there's really not a lot of options :(

Any chance you could come up with some fancy 2 piece setup?
 
Shame its not easy to change the size of the disc used and get some redrilled. Theres cheap VAG OEM discs out there much cheaper but thinner and bigger diameter like 8P S3 discs, newer TT MK5 R32 discs at 340x30/345x30 but i can do them at like 60 something plus vat each lol.

2008ish transporter discs are 333x32.5 but obviously need redrilling and who knows if they`d even fit on the hub and line up to everything just like the others above.
 
Cheers Jase but there doesn't seem to be much with regards to the r32 fitment, even with upgrades as the r32 lot seem to just bolt things on to run with oem discs or buy complete kits

Looks like options at the mo are oem discs through yourself, EBC of some description, tarox or Ecs 2 piece (would definately go for these but think its a **** take that you can't just buy the rotors and replace them yourself and that its nearly full price for replacement rotors)
 
Yeah my mate had the 2 piece setup with 6 pots on his mk4 and needed new rotors. They said send us the bells and we`ll fit new rotors then send them back. Sounded like a complete ballache.
 
And lots of $$$$

I'd love to go 2 piece and in my mind they will cost more as an initial to buy bells and rotors but then should be quite a bit cheaper at a later date buying just rotors?
 
Looking on the R32oc from a while back someone asking about discs. Bought EBC and warped straight away lol. Most people saying OEM are the best going basically other than obviously 2 piece. Someone mentioned on that thread about BMW 750 discs being the same size. No idea on the fitment though and obviously would need redrilling but they do seem pretty cheap.

Also mentioned Zimmerman discs from ebay look to be the same as OEM discs ie 2piece style but i dont know what the price is compared to my discounted rate.
 
Oem is looking like the way I will end up going

Second option am considering is getting some 2 pieces custom made as iirc when searching a couple of the big brake co's do this where you give them the bell dimensions and then pick one of their rotor sizes

I could also go a tad bigger than the r32 discs and then use a spacer between the caliper and bracket to make up the extra as 334mm doesn't seem to be a standard size

Have dismantled the calipers this morning and if get a chance will send them off for powdercoating early next week :)

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Managed to get time yesterday to change over the vvt unit and dropped in an AGN inlet cam whilst I was at it, because for a lot of setups around this power a lot of company's just reconmend a larger profile intake cam (and because I'm lazy and intake is easier to drop in) ;)

The added bonus I also replaced my burst boost pipe :p

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Measuring the bam intake compared to the AGN (although not that accurate as was trying to hold the cam measure it and take a pic in my break at work)

Bam

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AGN

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Here's a helpful diagram to help with the timing

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I made a school boy error when marking up that I didn't count the first roller to ended up with 17

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Could tell once was in that it didn't look right and then found the obvious mistake lol

After I put it right

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First impressions is that it pulls better up higher in the rev range and am undecided about the lower range and will have to drive some more to make my mind up but suspect its lost some umpth lower down

Would have loved to dyno before and after but it's not really an option ands its only a playing exercise :)

I then put my known vvt (which i had to grind down, thanks PT for the heads up) and the cat inlet cam in on my project engine

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It's definately worth getting an adjustable cam gear if you've had work done to the head and block as mine was a couple of degrees out

This will be due to the head having 0.5mm off of it, the block just under 0.1mm off and the headgasket being 0.5mm thinner iirc

I made my own TDC marks earlier in the build :)

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Used a screwdriver to help show the mark on the cam cover

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I forgot to take a pic of once I adjusted it but its a lot closer :)
 
Good work again big man. That boost hose wasn't so much "burst" but "totally angiliated" haha.

Lol cheers mate :)

Am starting to get worried that the engine is pretty much done now and I'm not going to have anything to play with and at the same time won't be able to fit it? :(
 
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I am actually getting really excited about this build... I went out in James stroker LCR (the one with the boost creep TSR mani), it was back at Bills for gear based boost mapping... fooooooook me that thing shifts!!! I know it always feels faster when sat in the passenger seat but third and fourth are just out of this world... in an S3 its gonna feel awesome dude... jealous much :D

It actually got me thinking about selling on my current setup (which in fairness after taking for a blast this morning just to make me feel better is no actual slouch!!) and doing something similar... then I remembered I was skint... lol... I think I will haev to save up for a crank as well as pistons for the engine rebuild now though...

Have you pinned the crank sprocket? IE do a kit which is a bit pricey but I know Mark (ByzanA4) did the one on his by drilling the OE one(which I think is all IE supply anyway) and use a tool steel pin...

<tuffty/>
 
Cheers mate I'm really excited (as can be imagined) my only worry is it will be laggier than I hoped as keep hearing that the gtx spools quite a bit slower than the gt equivilant and with the .82 housing will obviously loose some spool but time will tell?

I have been following James thread closely and he's got some cracking results, which must be mental on the road :)

Your car is by no means a slouch and its been a brilliant journey with a lot of custom work rather than just the bolt on and go approach

I'm sure yours will continue to keep evolving and get more out of it :)

I got an oem pulley drilled by my local engineering shop that I use through work etc as tried myself on our cack piller drill and couldn't get the holes completely square to the mounting face, I ground two sides off of an old oem bolt to hold it to the crank and spotted through into the crank and reamed the 2
I then glued the pins in and the pulley can be slid on and off the pins with a bit of persuasion

It's all in the thread somewhere ;)
 
Car went for its MOT yesterday and all sailed through bar one of my rear springs needs replacing

So am open to suggestions of what springs could fit, the cars currently on H&R coilovers and would ideally like a slightly stiffer pair as hit the stops quite regularly if ever have anyone in the back

After seeing a few threads on vortex recently and Andrew stretched his I have bought some ARP main studs for peace of mind as would seriously cry if the oem ones failed and caused a lot of damage

I fitted them today and the sump required some clearancing but nothing to major

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Can just about see the gap where the sump isn't sitting flush

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I have now sealed the sump on and should hopefully be taking it to my friend if I've not got much work on this week to have the lines done :)
 
this is a great idea, checking the timing on the pulley with the engine in the car is a really PITA!

Cheers mate did think it'll make it a lot easier once the head was on, also iirc the fly is supposed to have a timing mark but my southbend one hasn't so thought this was a worthwhile thing :)
 
Where did you get your main studs from?

I'm still waiting for mine to come

eBay I hate to say (they were new though)

Played around with the heatsheild some more and I hope this should be sufficient to stop as much heat directly on the coilpack wires, rocker cover seal and may even help keep a bit off of the charge pipework pending where that ends up

It's nothing fancy or pretty but should be functional.....I hope

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Should hopefully stop hot air directly off of the mani running up the back of the rocker

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Had to bend a couple of parts to clear the rocker and the turbine housing

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I knew there was something else I meant to ask.....does it matter what is the inlet or outlet on the turbo coolant?

Remember now that's why I took the last pic in the previous post lol