Reesy's Big Turbo A3

How longs the wrap been on the downpipe? That smokes pretty badly when hot on its first run fitted.
 
Jay A3 said:
Glad to hear its sort of drivable again






Washed it yet?
Click to expand...

It's progress, and I could have driven it home if I really needed it, but I don't..

Car had a wash on New Years Day and one in about Mid Feb, so not due one for a few weeks I don't think..

Jason.s said:
How longs the wrap been on the downpipe? That smokes pretty badly when hot on its first run fitted.
Click to expand...

Hadn't thought of that.
It's only done about 10 miles, so could well be that. Car smoked a bit when it was put on the old downpipe, although the coolant leak didn't help that..
 
s3dave said:
nearly there then Reesy , exhaust related work and they smoke like ****...Until its all burnt off
Click to expand...

i know mate, just a bit of a worry when you have nearly had a fire..

Wesyy, tiger sealing the spares is easier and should be a bit firmer..
 
Extending life of the spares? Good idea if you have spares to try out. Worth a shot
 
Jay A3 said:
Extending life of the spares? Good idea if you have spares to try out. Worth a shot
Click to expand...

i think the tiger sealed ones are a better option, I can only imagine the strain on the mounts when the turbo comes on boost.
 
So by all accounts the car is back together and ready to race.

Got to say another massive thanks to Ben. Some knob in a BMW got stuck on a hill yesterday due to havy snow, so my normal 1/2 hour journey home took 2 and a 1/4 hours. Whilst I was sat in traffic in a *** Zafira, Ben sorted out my car for me, again.

He also told me that the handbrake is seized on. What a treat.

Car has been heat shielded using some heat mat stuff, but it ideally needs a bit more. Ben thinks the dp was rubbing on mani causing the noise, so he has fixed that and made a bracket to hold the exhaust up at the back of the subframe as it was sitting a bit low.
the climate control, which didn't work on my test run, was just a fuse as Ben expected. Apparently the rear brake is a bit sticky, but its been released for now. Have heard of people using the Sharan(?) springs to aid this, assuming its not a slightly seized rear calliper.

Hopefully collect it tomorrow after work. :arco:
 
My n/s/r caliper sticks with handbrake on when its cold. Only that one though so if i know its going to be freezing i`ll just bring it up 3 clicks instead of 4 and leave it in gear and its fine. Pain though if i forget or dont know if its that cold.
 
It's always the n/s/r. That caliper stuck on my last a3, as well as this a3 one and now I'd pretty much guarantee it'll be the same on the s3 calipers.
I got told to do the same thing, don't pull the handbrake up too much in this weather. *** **** rear calipers
 
When we had the first snow spell earlier this yr, my n/s/r was seized up. Turns out it was the hand brake cable itself that was the problem. I think it was something like £8 for a new cable. Worth inspecting next time its up on the lift
 
audi upgrades
Time for an update:

Picked the car up Wednesday night. Under load the downpipe was still knocking but I needed the car for Thursday so took it anyway. Driving off boost the car was fine so that's how I had to drive it unfortunately.

I have ordered some poly resin to try and reduce engine movement and hopefully stop the downpipe rubbing completely. Should be here early part of next week, which is quite exciting.

yesterday due to a change of circumstances, the downpipe came off again. We could see where the downpipe was rubbing so a strategic dent was put in the downpipe. It was not as severe as a milltek system that Ben had in stock so I'm not too worried.

The dent has defiantly helped, as it now only knocks when under load and the wheel being turned. Hoping the engine mounts will stop this altogether. Yesterday was the first time in weeks I've driven the car on boost and its still very fast, which is good.

Ben took the car for a drive, and as soon as he came backin he took the clocks out of my car and removed the bulb so my immob light isn't constantly flashing.
 
audi upgrades
Opinions on running 2 OEM DV's vs a forge supersize?

007p isn't quite cutting it.
 
Reesy said:
Opinions on running 2 OEM DV's vs a forge supersize?

007p isn't quite cutting it.
Click to expand...

I did consider this but I have already blocked up the DV port on my charge pipe and had no room to accommodate it... there are race cars in the Combe Saloons that run dual 007p's so no reason why it won't work

<tuffty/>
 
Why not! Only way to find out

all I'd say is unless they are identically matched the chances are 1 will always dump before the other which may then just render the other useless. Worth trying though.
 
Do something and sell me your 007 for a friendly rate lol. Need one quickish as im sick of my new OEM unit sounded like im blowing over the top of a bottle constantly.
 
superkarl said:
Your supersize not dumping all the boost tuffty?
Click to expand...

Its working fine but was considering trying duel OE to see if there was any benefit... my SS valve doesn't leak and works fine but just couldn't see a nice way to fit them on mine so didn't bother...

<tuffty/>
 
Jason.s said:
Do something and sell me your 007 for a friendly rate lol. Need one quickish as im sick of my new OEM unit sounded like im blowing over the top of a bottle constantly.
Click to expand...

would do but it's welded on to an ally 90... Could remove it but not sure what state the bottom inlet would be in..
 
Long time since I updated in here.

So basically, almost 3 weeks ago my turbo died.

Car had been up and running for 8 days and drove fine on the 30 mile outward journey, and fine for about 15 miles of the journey home. At a set of lights I could hear a strange noise, but it was so faint I wasn’t sure what it was. Within ½ a mile I could hear a faint whistling so decided I’d limp it home. I assumed that the charge pipe hose had split, as others have had problems and the noise just sounded like boost escaping.

Put my foot down just to see what the gauge was saying and the car wouldn’t make over 4-5psi, so i thought it’s definitely a hose somewhere. Took a video, but you can only just hear it so I won’t post it.

After limping the last 10 or so miles home, up a couple of heftly hills at 30ish mph, i pulled up at home and when turning the car off it sounded like a jumbo jet. Straight away I knew that wasn’t just a hose issue. Took the tip off the turbo, cold side was ice cold as it was making no boost at all, and could see this:

3AB9F0C1-6B3B-4030-A0CC-C0647DF196C0-2036-00000106BB4C07E8_zpsa48941b8.jpg


And lots of in and out play.. ******.

C527FA12-E0E5-470D-A506-D4226E425029-627-000000349C1BB019_zps714aa2c7.jpg



So basically I have bought an eBay turbo. This one will get rebuilt by owens and sold on in the near future..

I’ve been away for just over a week so no progress has started yet, but hoping it’ll be well underway this weekend. Most bets are on oil starvation as the cause of the death of this one, so we’ll see.
 
Last edited:
oil starvation how?
what were your feeds like? size wise and routing?

read on vortex yesterday someone had the same thing.
last thing i wana do on mine is end up in the same boat.
 
From Garrett's FAQ's

Q. Does my turbo require an oil restrictor?
A. Oil requirements depend on the turbo's bearing system type. Garrett has two types of bearing systems; traditional journal bearing; and ball bearing. The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure.

If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. Garrett distributors can tell you the recommended range of acceptable oil pressures for your particular turbo.

Restrictor size will always depend on how much oil pressure your engine is generating-there is no single restrictor size suited for all engines. Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed.

For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo. The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance.
Click to expand...

<tuffty/>
 
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