My minor modding thread

Prawn said:
Top work there DCI PT, You should be on crime watch!

With all your cunning new mappery skills, why don't you just sack off the crap VVT system and code it out, and pay £100 for a brand new genuine non VVT tensioner Paul?
Click to expand...

StaceyS3 said:
Iirc vvt can be used to help aid spool when on bigger turbos?
Click to expand...

I do have a non VVT tensioner I can use and I can map it out if need be but yes it can help spool...

I will see what happens after I have hopefully sorted the fuel issue out... once thats done I can get on with tuning again... that will be when I will see how effective VVT actually is... ironically from looking at the maps its only K04 cars that have particularly active VVT... both K03 and K04 cars use VVT on warm up to get the CATs to temp etc but only K04 maps use VVT beyond that...

<tuffty/>
 
The VVT on and off is night and day, it helps the car feel more sprightly off boost and helps her to spool earlier. I did a bit of research to see what was worth doing when i went WB. I went for WB 02 and VVT.

Sadly i also got stung with copy VVT mechs. I knew the one in my car was a cheapo copy, to test the theory. I went to replace with a "genuine" one to find it was also a copy like PT's one. If it wasn't for his research on them, I doubt i'd have noticed. So I am waiting for a refund on mine because having run with a working VVT and a non working, I do not want to consider not running it
 
Yay!... have a week off work to play with the car... plans are...

Change battery cable to a straight run as I have a join in it and was never that happy with it tbh...

Fit WMI kit...

Change injectors to 550cc's Bosch to see if anything improves

Get on the dyno for a switchable map... 1bar, 1.5bar and 1.8bar... its a 5 map file so might slot one in between the first two depending on how hot things get and potentially add a 2bar map on the end for dyno days and the like

Plan is to have an actuator map, everyday non WMI map, WMI power map and a banzai map for special occasions :)

Made a start today... fellow ASN'r Aragorn sent me an interesting link to one of the yank sites... interesting in particular as it was totally down my OEM street...

20130223_092433.jpg


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...yes... thats right... actual OEM (from VAG) coil pack adaptors suitable for TFSI coils... they need trimming for use on cam covers with push down coils though as you can see they protrude out the bottom... the engines these come from (VAG V8's typically) used the bolt down type of coil originally... guess VAG decided this would be an easier way to migrate over to push downs rather than retool for new cam covers...

This how they sit pre-modding...
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Time to get the dremel out...
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...note that you need to be sure you have trimmed it right as due to the nature of the fixings they won't take too kindly to being removed and refitted too many times...

So, final fit...
20130223_100631.jpg


With the TFSI coil pack in...
20130223_100658.jpg


...and comparison to a coil not using an adaptor....
20130223_100754.jpg


All in all a great result... while they may not look as 'bling' as the aluminium ones kicking about they work out at about £2 each from a dealer (part number in the pic below)
20130223_092512.jpg


For bolt down cam covers they look a bit like this....
20130223_101303.jpg


More news in the week as the next bunch of work commences...

<tuffty/>
 
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Couple more pics... sorry it was getting dark by the time I had gotten around to sorting the others...

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Pleased with my adaptors that cost less than a tenner :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Looks tidy mate good find :)
would I need to get these ordered in or will they have them on the shelf at somewhere like TPS ?
 
dre_S3 said:
Looks tidy mate good find :)
would I need to get these ordered in or will they have them on the shelf at somewhere like TPS ?
Click to expand...

I got mine from TPS... they may have to order them in as I doubt its a 'popular' part... yet!... :eyebrows:

<tuffty/>
 
the VVT, looking on Elsawin under engine data it says that its only the AMK engine code that has variable valve timing, is that right?

Screenshot13_zps2ea45d1f.png
 
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Alex C said:
the VVT, looking on Elsawin under engine data it says that its only the AMK engine code that has variable valve timing, is that right?
Click to expand...

All wideband 20v engines come with VVT... AUM A3's, AMK/BAM S3's...

<tuffty/>
 
Great find on the adapters mate. These are more my style too. Not because they are OEM VAG, but because they are cheap. I couldn't be bothered with the shiny ones as they gave no real benefit and cost quite a bit. These are perfect.
 
Changed the injectors over to Bosch 550's to see if they run better than the 630 deka's I currently have... idle STFT's can be a bit wobbly on the deka's but work fine when rolling... lambda adjust has always sat +/-4% on cruise but idle seems to swing a bit wildly... while this is no biggy on an ME7 ecu being the perfectionist I am and also I like to faff with stuff (its how you learn things) I decided to try the 550's with a 4bar FPR as my inline pump is more than man enough for the job and Bill had a set of 550's I could use...

Had to use a set of unspacers (Bill had these on the shelf too... good man :D) and my fuel rail spacers too... it was odd as without the unspacers the rail would not sit the 550's in enough... with the unspacers I still had to space the rail back off!!.. ah well... they are in and they work...

Flashed in a revised file with the calibrations for the 550's and will spend the next day or so logging to see where the scaling sits... plenty of known data for a 3bar calibration but the 4bar calibrations seem to vary a bit so did some calcs and punched some numbers in... see where it sits...

20130224_142346.jpg


The unspacers are gold... but don't look to bad as they are hidden and the dip stick is orange so they don't stand out that bad... if all goes well with the 550's then the unspacers will most likely get a coat of satin black ;P

Also removed the rear seats this morning ready for re-running the battery cable tomorrow...

<tuffty/>
 
Interesting stuff mate. I was only thinking the other day whether my 550s would be up to the job of running a BT if I bought one in the future. Is this just a test you're doing or will you use 550s and a 4 bar from now on?
 
Westy said:
Interesting stuff mate. I was only thinking the other day whether my 550s would be up to the job of running a BT if I bought one in the future. Is this just a test you're doing or will you use 550s and a 4 bar from now on?
Click to expand...

If it runs fine and there is enough duty in the injectors for the power I should have then yeah...

<tuffty/>
 
Westy said:
Interesting stuff mate. I was only thinking the other day whether my 550s would be up to the job of running a BT if I bought one in the future. Is this just a test you're doing or will you use 550s and a 4 bar from now on?
Click to expand...

Samb LCR I mapped this week, was 96% IDC on 356bhp on its 550's at 3bar FYi
25psi sustained boost in his (cn)2871 on relentless V3 mani, reflanged T25
 
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What a 'fun' day... I had already removed some of the interior trim but had forgotten how much I actually had to remove to get to the cable!... fun, fun, fun!...
20130225_123624.jpg


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Anyhoo... got the old cable out... (one for Prawn ;P)
20130225_115403.jpg


As I am using a slightly thicker cable I opened the hole out a little and painted it to prevent corrosion...
20130225_123608.jpg


Had a rethink on the amplifier wiring too... I had it spliced in midway (hence wanting to replace with a single run) and was going to run the amp cable back to the battery but... decided to run it to the front instead... this was because the battery is realistically redundant once the engine is running... power for the electrics comes from the alternator... the amp cable would be better off closer to the alternator wiring rather that at the end of yet another long bit of cable... less voltage drop and more current potential..

This lead to a problem... how to get the cable through the bulkhead... as the pollen filter assembly was removed for ease of access I spotted another grommet...
20130225_130532.jpg


...which looks like this from the inside...
20130225_130014.jpg


Result!...
20130225_152049.jpg


...good job as there is no room once the 60mm cable is in...
20130225_152044.jpg


All connected up and will have a tidy up later when I have removed the charge pipes for the next part of this weeks work...
20130225_152421.jpg


All sorted for the amps too...
20130225_155904.jpg


I did make a minor boob though... underestimated how much cable I needed and had to get creative at the battery end :(
20130225_162848.jpg


Job done... as it gets asked a few times, here is a pic of the tools I used to terminate the cable..
20130225_171740.jpg


Interior is now back together and I am ready for tomorrows fun and games...
20130225_172824.jpg


20130225_172424.jpg


I have the choice of a progressive controller or pressure switch... I suspect I will just use the pressure switch tbh as the controllers are no more reliable than any of the others on the market...

More tomorrow...

<tuffty/>
 
Excellent work as always PT. I look forward to gettin that cable into my car :)

to take it the meth will use its own map setting on the switchable settings? That tiny tank under there won't last long otherwise!!!
 
Prawn said:
Excellent work as always PT. I look forward to gettin that cable into my car :)
Click to expand...

As I said before due, hapy to cut and terminate for you if you want... let me know how you wanna play it etc :)

Prawn said:
to take it the meth will use its own map setting on the switchable settings? That tiny tank under there won't last long otherwise!!!
Click to expand...

I will have it on a switch anyway and it will only be used for maps over 1.5bar I expect... will see how things go... depends on where I finally set the pressure switch too... I am not bothered about tuning to it more its cooling properties to keep performance reliable and consistent..

<tuffty/>
 
TFSI coils are meant to be a higher energy coil.. the TFSI runs a higher compression ratio that that of the 20v and a bigger plug gap as std...

Generally speaking its advise to run a 0.7mm gap on 20v's that have been mapped to prevent misfires on boost from the spark being blown out... what the TFSI coils should allow is the running of a larger gap (fatter spark is generally better) over that of the 20v coils... I currently run NGK BPR7E plugs on TFSI coils with a 0.85mm gap at 1.6-1.8bar... I have had no ignition related issues at all so far...

As for the increased power that some have so say reported I have seen no evidence to support this... I was there helping Bill during the coil pack tests on the lupo and we tried various combo's of coil pack and plug gap... no change in power...

The only noticeable difference is that the engine appears to run a little smoother and there are marginal improvements (subjective of course) in fuel consumption...

They are arguably a better coil pack than the 20v one so if you are in the market for a set then there is no harm in using them

<tuffty/>
 
audi upgrades
I've been getting some misfires on boost recently, changed plugs but it doesn't seem to have 100% cured it, perhaps these are the next logical step.
 
Bit of an anti climax today... started off changing the oil and filter... then removed the bumper to start work on the WMI fitting... thats where it all went a bit pear shaped...

I had the idea that the pump would sit in the cavity in the bumper on the passenger side and the tank would sit in the gap under the battery cover...

problem....
20130226_133156.jpg


I would need to relocate the horns and ambient air temp sensor... this 'would' have been fine but I really didn't want them back behind the grille (as they are as std) as I don't want anything blocking the air flow to the radiator and at some point I want to fit an oil cooler so would rather leave my options open...

I did think about fitting it the other side but that would mean running tubing backwards and forwards and I wasn't happy with it... I also remembered that a customer had fitted his DO pump in a simialr position and it ended up failing due to corrosion...

I tried various positions and tried to work out mounting methods for the tank too but tbh the only way it was going to sit was at a funky angle...
20130225_172424.jpg


I just wasn't happy with the way it sat or with any of the mounting methods... I don't need WMI that bad that I am just gonna throw it in... I did a quick test fit in the boot and I suspect thats where it will end up going when the warmer weather kicks in and I can spend a few hours in the evening doing outside the house...
20130226_130815.jpg


So I just went over the underneath of the car to do the usual checks and noticed a few cracks on the miltek back box... apparently its quite common...
20130226_160715.jpg


20130226_161447.jpg


...it was then I noticed that the box had deformed...

20130226_160738.jpg


20130226_161529.jpg


Guessing antilag launch/NLS is trying to find another way out of the box lol...

Anyhoo... Bill welded up the cracks and all is good in the world again so I went and removed some ADR cams from head Bill had on the shelf (maybe more on that another day) and a potential VVT unit from an AUM head that looked in good condition so will look at bunging that in as mine has started to rattle as I let off the throttle when revving the engine...

Few odds and sods to sort out but hoping Bill will be able to bung the car on the dyno at some point this week to at least see where things are and to see if the injectors are going to be up to the job or max out...

<tuffty/>
 
Westy said:
There's not much room to work with in the bays of these cars as it is. I love my WMI kit being in the boot tucked out the way. Just a PITA running it all in.
Click to expand...

I should have checked yesterday tbh... I could have run the pipe in as I did the battery cable but didn't realise my original plans were going to end up a bust... I simply could not be ***** to have the interior out again as its just a thankless task...

<tuffty/>
 
Cheers guys for your replys. Interesting stuff, I got to be honest I am thinking if the coilpacks go its worth a try.
 
lovemelongtime said:
Are there any negatives with WMI, well besides buying the fluid?
Click to expand...

To save further derailment of my build thread I have found these for you to read :)
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/audi-s4-a4-a4-cab-b7-chassis/166019-water-meth-injection.html

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/115517-water-methanol-injection-guys.html

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/165442-wmi-safe.html

There are a few more but this will allow yo to ask the questions you want there :)

<tuffty/>
 
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