Lorryz S3 8l

I had some more parts arrive this week, so I figured id update my progress.

I just fitted new black Forge silicon piping for the DV and N75 valve, as well as the red Forge Turbo elbow. Its already fixed a couple of leaks.
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My intake manifold spacer from 034 motorsports, Im probably going to wait until my catch can arrives before fitting.
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I got some 95mm double ply intake pipe, I will be fitting soon along with the smooth air-box mod.
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And finally, my custom Motorsport Tech Hub adaptors have arrived from the USA. I can't fault them for quality and the sit perfectly in the wheels.


Hub centric and wheel centric adaptors. 15mm for the front 20mm for the rear with mounting lugnuts and lugbolts.
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As soon as my new Pirelli's arrive, I will be able to get these bad boys fitted. :laugh:
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Nice one :) I got my adapters through Jr. at Motorsport Tech. Did yours take ages? I always pay the express fee to get them quicker haha. Good to deal with though and like you say, awesome quality. I've had no issues.

Phenolic spacer is a good opportunity to clean up the inlet and reset the TB etc. I am thinking about refitting the airbox too. A cone filter is just too loud I think. I must be getting old.

We should definitely have a Sydney meet up one day...
 
Cheers Sam, Yeah it took about a month for them to arrive, Luckily I was still figuring out which tires to buy (hardest thing in the world).

Yeah, personally I don't like the look of a pod, It's just a bit messy IMO. Stealth black and OEM+ is the way to go.
 
I've used Falken 452 and Bridgestone RE-11's. Both are meant to be good and I've not had any issues but haven't exactly pushed it to the limit...
 
mate im using Pzero's and i cant fault them at all and i really push it almost to the limit on the corners . try pilot sport 3's also they not bad
 
I finally got my wheels on this weekend, unfortunately the weather was a bit wet, so I didn't get a chance to clean the car before taking the photos. But ill try again when it gets sunny.

These are 18" Oz Racing Canyons, final offset et20 front and et15 at the rear.

As mentioned earlier, I haven't seen these wheels fitted to an S3 before and personally I think they look MAD. Let me know what you think.

The before pic
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After pic
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Just sitting under the arches and clearing everything.
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I also de-chromed the grill today.
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The car is sitting on Stock suspension, a 2" drop on a set of bilstein b12 or pss should finish it off.
 
It looks like the my pictures are working again.

The sun was out, so I took some more today after a quick clean.

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Nice wheels mate, coilovers next? How much were the adaptors if you dnt mind me askin, i went for h&r ones
 
Nice wheels mate, coilovers next? How much were the adaptors if you dnt mind me askin, i went for h&r ones

I haven't decided, id love to get the suspension done. But its coming into summer here in Aus, and im already suffering from heat soak. So maybe fmic next. Ill see what happens when I next have money :shrug:.

They weren't cheap, but they were custom made and fit perfectly to the wheel and hub.

With hub bolts, wheel nuts and postage, they came to about $400Aud (or around 250 pound).

Motorsport tech has a price generator on there website, if your interested in a set.
 
Ahh i see, that explains why the sun is out in all your picts lol. Ok cheers will check the site out.
 
How did you do the grille? Keen to do mine.

Car's looking good :)

Matt black vinyl and a heat gun. It turned out really well IMO.

I wanted it to be reversible (in case I hated it), also I didn't want the stone chips associated with paint.

We will see how well it lasts.
 
Oh awesome, fancy lending me the gun and selling me some vinyl? heh.

Used all my vinyl up (had a couple of practice attempts). Its cheap though Link.

Yeah you can use the heat gun, its just a cheap one from bunnings, like $30 bucks. Still does the job.
 
I fitted the Seat Cupra R splitter. It was a pretty easy job. I removed the bumper from the car, as I wanted mount it with screw/bolts and nuts (I think I used 24 in total). Also, wanted to measure and centre it accurately, and having it off the car made that a lot easier.

I used a dremel and heat gun to trim and mould it to the bumper. It was pretty straight forward.

I wanted an aggressive bend in the middle of the splitter, so I only trimmed a little off the 2 plastic centre posts.

This looked great off the car, but when I put the bumper back on the car, I wasn't happy with how the underside hangs down on the drivers side behind the splitter.

As seen on this silver s3. Obviously not my car, but I didn't a before picture.
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So broke out the dremel and started cutting bits off, to even up the bumper.
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Location of some of the bolts and bends.
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What I ended up cutting off.
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End result, I'm very happy with how it turned out. Maybe a little aggressive looking, but I think the car needed it.
 
Very Nice 8L you have there bud, Why dont you perhaps trim the 2 center pieces of the cupra lip to give it a more level fit? Just a thought. Otherwise excellent work done so far! :icon_thumright:
 
I have to agree with the above, I think they look better flat but it's your car!

Where did you get it from? Cheapest I've seen is about $95 from overseas.
 
Where did you get it from? Cheapest I've seen is about $95 from overseas.

I might trim it down again, when I have the bumper off next. For now, I'm happy with it.

$95 without postage ? I got mine on ebay, they all seemed to be around the same price, once you add shipping.
 
Why dont you purchse the cupra lip from the agents? The pricing is like 35 euro's is it not?
 
Yeah, if we were in Europe. There's no Seat dealers here and when I quoted the part number to a VW dealer here, they couldn't organise it. So instead we have to pay through the nose for it (like most other stuff)...
 
Yeah, if we were in Europe. There's no Seat dealers here and when I quoted the part number to a VW dealer here, they couldn't organise it. So instead we have to pay through the nose for it (like most other stuff)...

Wow ok, so each country has their pro's and con's with regards to the car scene, Must say I would rather struggle to get a cupra Lip over trying to find a set of brembo calipers hehe!

Sorry for thread jack.
 
Hi all, I bought a Stack boost gauge earlier last year and never got round to fitting it. About two months ago, I had a crack at fibre-glassing a pillar mount.

I started with a universal pod, but found it to be much too big for the pillar, so I cut it up and created a flush skin using the fibreglass and pillar as a mould.

Being my first time with fibreglass it wasn't perfect, but good enough, I just sanded and bogged all the imperfections.
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I wrapped the pillar with tin foil to stop the fibreglass from sticking to the pillar.
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Once I smoothed the pod, I drilled through it into the pillar and attached it using 4 bolts (Sorry, no pictures).
I then smoothed over them, just like tufftys pod in the stickys.
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A base cote of matt black, before test fitment.
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It sat perfectly, no rattles and the colour matched.
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As I only put a base cote on, got a few scratches when I installed it, the shiny stuff is just some tinfoil I hadn't remove before taking the photo.
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The pillar gauge was fine for a while, then I decided it was just too boy racer for me.

So I purchased a steering wheel cowling from an a3 and a mk4 golf column gauge gauge pod and went to work.

The mk4 cowling is a bit narrower than the audi's, so I had to do a bit of trimming before I started fibre-glassing.
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Here it is smoothed out, I didn't bother fibre-glassing the front, as the steering wheel would cover that part. But I wanted everything else to look flush and oem.
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Primed and smooth.
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Painted matt black.
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I had to remove the steering wheel to get it to fit.
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Test fitment. Everything sits flush.
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This is what it looks like in my sitting position, All gauges visible. Only the time/date is slightly obscured, which is easily fixed by tilting my head slightly left :p
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Head tilted left :D
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And without flash.
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This is the view from the passengers seat. All neat and tidy.
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I will try to take some better pictures when the sun come up.
 
Blimey you want to make them and sell them! Best looking boost gauge holder I've seen in a while...
 
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I also met up with Sam, Another Aussy on the forum. And took his old bilstein Pss set up off his hand.

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This will hopefully sort out my current ride hight issue :)
 
Love the colour mate and the mods are sweet,I really want a milltek exhaust!
 
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Nice one on the gauge. Did you need an M12 spline tool for the wheel?

You'll like that suspension I think :) Your car looked mint. I'm jealous of the color. Once it's a bit lower, it'll look awesome.
 
Nice one on the gauge. Did you need an M12 spline tool for the wheel?

You'll like that suspension I think :) Your car looked mint. I'm jealous of the color. Once it's a bit lower, it'll look awesome.

Yeah, I picked one up at Bunnings, I figured id need one for myself encase i wanted to modify it again. Maybe a duel setup :D.

Cheers, when the sun comes out again they will be going straight on. Can't wait haha.
 
As promised, a few more picture. Unfortunately no sun, but a least there is no flash glare.

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Passenger perspective. Colour match is dead on, but my stock under cowling could use some new paint.
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Side on.
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Coilovers fitted. The weather isn't that great, so the car is a mess. But at least it sits nice and even now :laugh:.

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Bit of an update. I think I've finished all my visual mods to the car. Only thing left now is hp mods :laugh:.

Here is how the car is currently sitting on my b14's. I think its just right.
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I've swapped my aerial for a vw shark fin. Am/Fm is still working great for me.
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And finally, I did the headlight painting mod. Lots of good information is found here.

I opted for flat black to match the flat silver used around the lenses. Which looked pretty good to me. Less chrome the better IMO.
Now i just have to give the Headlights a good polish.
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I've had a nice big turbo intake pipe (b5 v2 tip) on the car ages now, but I never got round to fixing the flow on the filter side.

Since there are some legality issues involved with pod filters (where I live), along with noise and looks, I opted to improve the stock airboxs flow.

I made my home made cold air intake with a 95mm double ply intake pipe.

Here it is next to the stock inlet.
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A size/flow comparison.
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Next was Dremeling out a larger hole for the new pipe, pretty easy if you measure it all up.
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The pipe fits cleanly down next to the battery.
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The engine bay, remains nice and oem looking.
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I haven't taken it for a spin yet, but pretty happy with how its turned out.
 
Today I fixed my broken headlight clip,I noticed this when I had my headlights out, from when I painted them two weeks ago.
But if your beam is pointing pretty low, its probably got a broken clip, as they are a common part that breaks on these cars (poor design ?).

Unfortunately, its pretty hard to get hold of an oem replacement. So I opted for the after market replacement found in this Group buy. I found that these clips weren't 100% plug and play. And had to modify a few things to make it easier for myself.

I did try to document as much as much as I could, but I only had my iphone to hand, So i did loose a few photos and I had to reuse some photos. I also borrowed a picture from Sparkesandnoise.

It is impossible to do this with headlight in the car, so step one is removing the bumper and then the 4 torx bolts holding the headlight in place (2 on top, 1 behind the light and 1 underneath).

Once the headlight is out and on the bench, you then rotate the the self levelling sensor 1/4 of a turn. Then it should pop out.
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The clip should then be accessible.

Here's the broken clip from my drivers side lamp.
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And this the stock clip next to the replacement. Its very unlikely that the new clip will break.

Its also a bit wider, and won't fit threw the access hole. I found the best way to fit it, was to push it under the back of projector lense. Then let it fall into place.
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Below is the self levelling motor, obviously the circular white part fits into the headlight clip.

However, when I attempted to fit my new metal clip, I found it extremely difficult to manoeuvre the motor into the correct location.
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My solution was to trim down two edges of the white circle into a square while leaving the other two side circular.
So the square side slots easily inside the metal clip.
And then when you twist the motor into its lock position on the light unit, the square rotates inside the metal clip to its circular shape and thus, locking its self within the clip.
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Hopefully these pics might help someone that struggled to fit the clip as I did.
 
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