I'd have them at the top but some people run them at the bottom so they are easier to get at to adjust, my issue with that is instead of pushing the top of the wheel out, you are in fact pulling the bottom of the wheel in to match.. (if you can understand my point) I'd go for the top.
I don't have any on, my cars not lowered yet but id have thought top would of been best as its the top of the wheel that cambers in? or is it infact the bottom of the wheel pushes out making it look the other way round?.. that's just my thought but if bottom is best then I will stick to that.. confusing haha
I've been doing some thinking on this. If you have them on the top, you increase rear toe, it's better to have them on the bottom to keep the toe as near as factory as possible I think.
Here is what a Forge rep states:
"......LCR....."
Just buy 2 sets like i did and problem solved and bo worries of them ever snapping lol.
No dave doesnt make them due to the costs involved, shame as their amazing quality, ive got his fitted, think mine are some of the last sets he produced.
LCR came in 4mo guise also, but not over here.
They both use the rose joint at the hub end, the |_| bracket bolts to it, allowing vertical and horizontal movement, although horizontal movement is minimal I suspect.
Yeah gruvenparts reckon these are decent ptfe lined self lubricating joints but clearly they are cheapos. Decent joints seem to last well, many have been using those CPT arms on the road for extended periods, 50k+. I'm going for bushes anyway as Max has done a fair bit of testing to find the right bushes. I was going to get some QA1 rose joints (said to be very good) to replace these but it's not worth it.
Aye the "Recession busters"....
How many beers had you drunk when this picture was taken?
where did you get that pic from....How many beers had you drunk when this picture was taken?
Awesome Dave, can you PM me please!!!!
Can't you PM him?