Rear Tie Bars

Sidey

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Can anyone tell me what metal the rear tie bars are made of? Mild steel maybe?

8178137978_43aec4bb12_z.jpg
 
Stainless has a lower tensile strength than mild so you're actually MORE likely to snap a stainless bar. That being said the bars dont snap 'by themselves' there is always a contributing factor such as the bush they bolt to seizing.
 
A bit off topic gents, but what does the tie bar mount to on the chassis of the car?

If say.. oh I dont know.. a hit and run driver , smacked in to my rear passenger wheel, head on... could the impact push the tie arm 'back' and bend the mount? as the arm itself has not bent.... as far as I can see
 
A bit off topic gents, but what does the tie bar mount to on the chassis of the car?

If say.. oh I dont know.. a hit and run driver , smacked in to my rear passenger wheel, head on... could the impact push the tie arm 'back' and bend the mount? as the arm itself has not bent.... as far as I can see

Fixes to the rear subframe which in turn is fixed to the body.. the subframe is pretty sturdy so the arm would suffer first...

<tuffty/>
 
Tuffty, not sure if that's aimed at me, but just for clarity, my post was meant for the original topic poster, he mentioned getting something machined ("wanted to know what steel I need to have machined"), so I was just linking to parts he may be able to use to save the hassle/expense.
 
Tuffty, not sure if that's aimed at me, but just for clarity, my post was meant for the original topic poster, he mentioned getting something machined ("wanted to know what steel I need to have machined"), so I was just linking to parts he may be able to use to save the hassle/expense.

Ah yeah... without a quote the context was lost... soz..

<tuffty/>
 
Ah yeah... without a quote the context was lost... soz..

<tuffty/>

Yeah, my bad, I wasn't very clear about that. The arms look simple enough to modify, shouldn't be too hard to do at all. Am I right in thinking that it's the bush in the hub seizing that causes all the issues with them breaking? If so then I think I'd be placing the adjuster as close to the chassis end as sensible to keep the leverage on it down should the bush bind. That should help minimize the issue with the weakening caused by the HAZ too, in fact I'd be tempted to sleeve and plug weld the threaded inserts in to help with that.
 
Not Audi ones......These are what I have on the rear of the MINI.

DSC 0150

One of my lower arms snapped a couple of weeks ago.......

IMG 0666

I was ****** lucky in that it only happed 50yrds from my house on the way home from work. I drive nearly 60miles a day on bumpy, windy B roads......I'm not known for hanging about either.

How much are replacements these days? Is it worth going aftermarket on a daily? I've slung on a 2nd hand jobbie at the moment.
 
If you are not lowered then oem is suitable
 

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