N249, No Boost, Audi S3, A3 S3

I think he has bypassed the N249 valve (looking at his other thread) but has also cut the electrical connection to the N249 valve and is awaiting a resistor to replace it with. I am assuming that the n75 is untouched?
 
Alex C said:
I think he has bypassed the N249 valve (looking at his other thread) but has also cut the electrical connection to the N249 valve and is awaiting a resistor to replace it with. I am assuming that the n75 is untouched?
Click to expand...

What am I even thinking, a bit drunk and read N249 as N75. What a clutz. Sorry bro's, bad eyesight.
 
Just add i would t bother wiring a resistor in, its not needed and cause the ecu to fry from what ive read. The n249 fault code wont casue running issues, i get the same code every time i scan mate so i think you need to start looking elsewhere.
 
cheers guys, basicly what happend is my N249 got caught up against the heat sheilding and caught fire! stupid mistake i know but i have been working in the dark with a head tourch. i have cut the wires off becuase i cant unplug it because the peice has melted itself together, i have no boost at all, ecu seems to be working, no odd things happening apart from the boost issue ( i know this because i unpugged my MAF and it came up with the engine light as normal) any ideas, i really need some help, i have tried everything. thanks.
 
Last edited:
Youve checked the turbo havent you? You taken the silicone elbow off that connects to the charge pipe to see if its covered in oil?
 
do you mean the induction hose? if so yes i have taken it off and looked, i checked it for play and to see if its seized, but didnt look for oil but im sure i would have noticed, cheers
 
Nonthe pipe that comes of the turbo and connects to the charge pipe (the metal L shaped pipe that goes around the top of the engine)
 
what happend was i was driving my car after replacing the inlet hose because it was split, i found this due to no boost as im experiancing now, i unplugged my battery for 5 mins and then drove it, it was working for a minute or two, i noticed the power drop again... i then pulled over and found the N249 on fire! i havent had it running full boost since :/
 
I wonder if the n249 wires are shorting some kind of signal out going tothe evc, didnt you say earlier that they are melted together?
 
hmm il have another look, but they were melted together thats why i cut them apart, i will tape them apart properly and see if that does the trick..
 
Haha im all out mate, youe tried everything, think is time for garage time and get a pressure test and also a compression test as well mate.
 
yeah same here, im going to try the resistor tomorrow, and get it on my mates snap on diagnostics.. then to the garage.. ive heard it could be engine mounts or the fuel pump... cheers anyway
 
Put the resistor on the N249 wires and still no luck, I may need to clear any faults on my ecu, but still no luck, anyone got any ideas?
 
sorry silly question, but you have bypassed you N249 valve? and you have run a hose from the inlet to the top of the DV?

also your TIP is definitely securely fitted?
 
I've just done the exact same... did you manage to find the root cause of your issue?

My N249 melted on top of the manifold, now I'm only boosting to actuator pressure.

Going to check codes in a min..
 
4 Faults Found:

17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17697 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
P1289 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0012 - 35-10 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded) - Intermittent
17938 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment
P1530 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000
 
N75 and Camshaft Sensor is plugged in... but looks like it's on the same circuit as the N249... Is there some sort of fuse or something that the melting N249 could have taken out?
 
Try looking at fuse 34, middle row of big fuses, 4 up.
 
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