Warped discs after 5k miles

Brodster

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As the title says the front brake discs on my S3 are now warped.....WTF. They must be made of cheese. So the cars into the garage next week to get all the wee niggly problems sorted. The worst one is trying to fill the car up full of fuel. Almost impossible unless you have about 15 mins spare. When you think its full, drive away the needle moves away from full after about 5-10 miles. I have tried to fill it right up and it takes about another £10-£12 so sounds like there could be a restriction at the top of the tank.
 
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As the title says the front brake discs on my S3 are now warped.....WTF. They must be made of cheese. So the cars into the garage next week to get all the wee niggly problems sorted. The worst one is trying to fill the car up full of fuel. Almost impossible unless you have about 15 mins spare. When you think its full, drive away the needle moves away from full after about 5-10 miles. I have tried to fill it right up and it takes about another £10-£12 so sounds like there could be a restriction at the top of the tank.

Mine moves after 12 miles! Its a slow and painful process brimming it.
 
Were ur discs and pads changed together last time round? Did u wear them in properly? Who installed the old ones?
 
The S3 is only 6 months old with 5k miles. Noticed it yesterday when coming back down the road from picking the kids up at Lossiemouth. Bad vibration through the pedal and steering wheel. Take your foot off the brake and everything is bob-on.

Its going in next week as I said to get it sorted and Im just waiting for them to say theres nothing wrong......bring it on!!!
 
Suprised they're not rusty :jump:

I got mine in Feb brand new, I'm now on 14,200 miles :)

Drive a bit harder? ;)

Time to upgrade to HUGE brakes?

Audi will probably replace under good will?
 
Had my discs & pads changed after 8k miles...same issue exactly....no quibbles from them about replacing everything either which leads me to think it is a known issue on some cars.
 
Had my discs & pads changed after 8k miles...same issue exactly....no quibbles from them about replacing everything either which leads me to think it is a known issue on some cars.

You've been quiet y'old chap!

touch wood, my brakes work very well :)
 
They brakes are still very strong but I can't handle the wobble coming thro the wheel and pedal. I have heard that it is a fairly common problem. And IF Audi don't change them under warranty then my alter ego will be coming out.......:shutup2:

Quick question though......seeing as my car has non OEM alloys on it - 19" BBS CK's will this make any difference to the warranty stuff????
 
****** hell thats bad,my bro had a Peugeot which needed new discs and pads after 3 months.....but an Audi ! Sacre Bleu :sadlike:
 
Get it sorted asap, it puts additional stresses through the suspension system when it gets really bad. If not u, then someone before u who had the car has been too heavy on the brakes too early (in transfer mileage or somthin?)
 
I heard from an Aston Martin dynamics engineer that there's no such thing as 'warped discs'... He said that the usual cause is actually pad deposits on the disk and you just need to take it up to motorway speeds and emergency brake down to 10mph without stopping, then accelerate back up and repeat this so you end up braking extremely hard about 8-10 times until you can smell the brakes burning and then drive at a constant motorway speed for a few miles to let the brakes cool down again.

I don't know if this is true or not, just passing it on. :)
 
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I think the stock brakes on the S3 are OK for a car up to Stg2,but given that the car weighs 1500kgs,as power rises,and speeds increase,it's pretty easy to get them way too hot,and encounted fade and possibly warping.
Time for a chat with DaveB I think.
 
I think the stock brakes on the S3 are OK for a car up to Stg2,but given that the car weighs 1500kgs,as power rises,and speeds increase,it's pretty easy to get them way too hot,and encounted fade and possibly warping.
Time for a chat with DaveB I think.


It doesn't matter how much power u have. If they're not aligned correctly on install then thats the beginning of problems. If the driver is too heavy on the brakes too early thats another cause, when theres new discs and pads then thats when its more likely to happen if they're not worn in properly (personal experience)
 
I heard from an Aston Martin dynamics engineer that there's no such thing as 'warped discs'... He said that the usual cause is actually pad deposits on the disk and you just need to take it up to motorway speeds and emergency brake down to 10mph without stopping, then accelerate back up and repeat this so you end up braking extremely hard about 8-10 times until you can smell the brakes burning and then drive at a constant motorway speed for a few miles to let the brakes cool down again.

I don't know if this is true or not, just passing it on. :)

Sounds like a load of old Tosh to me.

Assuming the braking components are aligned properly, discs wear according to how often and how hard you hit the brake pedal, the quality of the metal in the disc and the hardness of the pads. On a newish car you would assume all is as it should be. My guess is the quality of this batch of discs is not what it should be.
 
It doesn't matter how much power u have. If they're not aligned correctly on install then thats the beginning of problems. If the driver is too heavy on the brakes too early thats another cause, when theres new discs and pads then thats when its more likely to happen if they're not worn in properly (personal experience)
Absolutely.
It just wasn't what I was getting at,as I'd sort of rambled a couple of stages down the line,and not seen how new the car was!
 
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As the title says the front brake discs on my S3 are now warped.....WTF. They must be made of cheese. So the cars into the garage next week to get all the wee niggly problems sorted. The worst one is trying to fill the car up full of fuel. Almost impossible unless you have about 15 mins spare. When you think its full, drive away the needle moves away from full after about 5-10 miles. I have tried to fill it right up and it takes about another £10-£12 so sounds like there could be a restriction at the top of the tank.

Ive got this issue with filling it. Never seems to be able to get full! Whats going on
 
ouch mine this has happened to my a3, but it was because some numpty lauched mine with the handbrake up :$
 
My mate had the same prob on his 8L with about 3k on the clock...

Then again he had gone from 120 - 20mph on full anchors!

Replaced under warranty tho :)
 
Sounds like a load of old Tosh to me.

Assuming the braking components are aligned properly, discs wear according to how often and how hard you hit the brake pedal, the quality of the metal in the disc and the hardness of the pads. On a newish car you would assume all is as it should be. My guess is the quality of this batch of discs is not what it should be.

Nope it's the truth. The vibration will 99% be from pad deposits causing judder. You can skim the discs to remove the uneven pad deposits and they'll be smooth again but if the same pads and braking style are used the vibration will likely come back. Or you can use a more aggressive pad that might clean the disc up.



Brodster, What pads are being used?
 
How long typically should discs last without any issues? I know i'm due new pads soon, mines done 35K
 
Mine moves after 12 miles! Its a slow and painful process brimming it.

I thought it was just me!

It seems they don't like being filled while near full, I was going ona long trip today and thought I'd top it up (it was about 1/8th from full, I figured about £15 worth.

It started clicking at £5, which I knew was wrong, nursed it to £8 at which point is started spitting diesel down the side of the car, so I thought maybe I had overdone it after all. Got it started up, and it's a good 1/16th off full.

The fuel neck seems like it's designed wrong, I've had trouble filling up on other occassions too, when i never did on any other car I had.
 
I brimmed mine from empty 2 days ago now, I got at least 40 miles before I saw any massive movement off the top.

it was pretty much dead on £10 extra after the click.

But to be honest, I hate driving it full of fuel, performance is reduced, it feels much heavier, well it is! Something roughly like 1kg= 1 litre.
 
I brimmed mine from empty 2 days ago now, I got at least 40 miles before I saw any massive movement off the top. it was pretty much dead on £10 extra after the click. But to be honest, I hate driving it full of fuel, performance is reduced, it feels much heavier, well it is! Something roughly like 1kg= 1 litre.
Not quite that bad,but 60litres will add just over 40kgs to your car....I on the other hand,can add more....LOL
 
Ahh I was mis-informed, still heavy stuff! :)
Not as heavy as what sits in the driver's seat!.....I think it's noticeable probably,but I tend to brim mine,then run it to near empty,and try to get whatever discount/points etc I can get from the local garage.
 
15 miles and it moves off the full? i get at least 50 miles in my rs6 before it moves.

i shake the car sometimes to get the air out the tank and it usually lets some extra go in.

i did manage 150 miles from a 80ltr tank once :keule:
 
I don't tend to get the "moving off full" problem (at least I've never seen it) but have had a few times when the pump just clicks and clicks.

I have a sense that it's a combination of an odd fuel neck design plus a sensitive pump. I like to brim it each time, it makes it easier to monitor mgp...
 
Not yet. The discs are definately warped so will get them changed under warranty. The fuel thing I can live with. Im actually looking at selling the S3 due to getting a new dog next week and Im looking at the B7 RS4 for bigger boot space so just trying to find a descent one in the colour and spec I want......could be a long wait.
 
Not yet. The discs are definately warped so will get them changed under warranty. The fuel thing I can live with. Im actually looking at selling the S3 due to getting a new dog next week and Im looking at the B7 RS4 for bigger boot space so just trying to find a descent one in the colour and spec I want......could be a long wait.

It's not a 'Scottish Border' terrier (or collie) is it ????? Sorry !! lol
 
I heard from an Aston Martin dynamics engineer that there's no such thing as 'warped discs'... He said that the usual cause is actually pad deposits on the disk and you just need to take it up to motorway speeds and emergency brake down to 10mph without stopping, then accelerate back up and repeat this so you end up braking extremely hard about 8-10 times until you can smell the brakes burning and then drive at a constant motorway speed for a few miles to let the brakes cool down again.

I don't know if this is true or not, just passing it on. :)
Absolutely true. This is why it is imperative that the brakes are bedded in before you stamp on them. The other cause is leaving your foot on the brake when the rotors and pads are extremely hot and not rotating which causes transfer of pad material to the surface creating high spots and in turn brake judder. If a rotor is warped, which technically is virtally non-existent, then the pads will deal with it anyhow by moving in and out - the disk is still flat and the friction isn't being altered. A mechanic will still call it a "warped disk" because they can't be bothered with the technical explanation.

edit: PS -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
 
My S3 is now on its 4th set of front brake discs and pads after they all warped after doing a couple of thousand miles on each set. The first 2 sets were Pagid which I fitted. The third set were from Audi fitted by my Audi independent mechanic. These have been replaced by Audi after my mechanic claimed on Audi's warranty. My mechanic did a full check on the front end of the car and so did Audi. The check included hubs and calipers and clean bill of health. The discs are not drilled of grooved so no build of pad material. They have no answers so I think its time to get rid of the car before they warp again. Hope you have better luck.
 
Absolutely true. This is why it is imperative that the brakes are bedded in before you stamp on them. The other cause is leaving your foot on the brake when the rotors and pads are extremely hot and not rotating which causes transfer of pad material to the surface creating high spots and in turn brake judder. If a rotor is warped, which technically is virtally non-existent, then the pads will deal with it anyhow by moving in and out - the disk is still flat and the friction isn't being altered. A mechanic will still call it a "warped disk" because they can't be bothered with the technical explanation.

edit: PS -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

I track my weekend car, and despite using it very heavily on its standard disks and pads have never had "warped disks" its all pad transfer. Which is why on a track day, one cool down lap, come to a rolling stop, and leave in gear, don't touch the brakes.

If anyone can show me the TIR for a set of warped disks I'll change my mind, but as none of my colleagues nor I have had this, and we rack up a few hot miles, I'm in denial.

K
 
Remaining stationary at lights after very heavy brake use will cause a temperature difference across the disc and can warp them as the pad holds the heat in. I use the handbrake as a matter of course or if the surface is flat no brakes at all at junctions after a blast.
 

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