Diverter Valve FAIL Images (2.0 TFSi Quattro)

[Scott.T]

Swapped the Diverter Valve today to the latest version.
This is what the original looked like.

I've only had the car for 1 week, and this change has certainly improved the turbo spool.
Still chasing a 1,700 - 2,200rpm missfire though even after plug and coil pack change.

 

[Custardsucker]

This is a well documented DV failure, nothing unusual apart from mine was orange in colour not green.

 

[Scott.T]

I appreciate it is a common fault, but just thought these images would be useful.
I come from an enthusiast forum (with my other caR) where we all like to help one another, rather then have a 'dealer' approach of "they all do that" or "it's a common problem sir" and then walk away giving no further information.

However, after just reading all about the turbo system on the 2.0TFSI and seeing images of the DV operation I can't understand why the split in the seal on the solenoid side of the valve would make any difference to turbo performace.

The sealing/blocking of the charge air is done by the button seal on the end of the DV, which is all case of DV failure seems to be fine.

 

[hades-]

yep quite normal looking.

 

[Custardsucker]

I appreciate it is a common fault, but just thought these images would be useful.
I come from an enthusiast forum (with my other caR) where we all like to help one another, rather then have a 'dealer' approach of "they all do that" or "it's a common problem sir" and then walk away giving no further information.

However, after just reading all about the turbo system on the 2.0TFSI and seeing images of the DV operation I can't understand why the split in the seal on the solenoid side of the valve would make any difference to turbo performace.

The sealing/blocking of the charge air is done by the button seal on the end of the DV, which is all case of DV failure seems to be fine.

Sorry if my reply wasn't as helpful as you perhaps wanted, I was just confirming that you had the normal failure mode.
The failure of these valves was covered in an article in Audi Driver magazine some time ago and showed the normal failure of a split diaphragm and was related to boost loss.
As mentioned in another post from yourself I have changed mine for the latest type and on inspecting the one removed I too could not see how this would reduce boost as the diaphragm appears to be there to protect the solenoid coil from airborne oil. The solenoid itself is dead ended and I do not see how boost could leak.

 

[Scott.T]

Sorry if my reply wasn't as helpful as you perhaps wanted, I was just confirming that you had the normal failure mode.
The failure of these valves was covered in an article in Audi Driver magazine some time ago and showed the normal failure of a split diaphragm and was related to boost loss.
As mentioned in another post from yourself I have changed mine for the latest type and on inspecting the one removed I too could not see how this would reduce boost as the diaphragm appears to be there to protect the solenoid coil from airborne oil. The solenoid itself is dead ended and I do not see how boost could leak.

No problem mate, and I agree I can't understand how it effect's it either. Being an engineer by trade I like to establish how things work.
But it certainly makes a difference. Maybe not so much in peak power, but certainly effects the way it spools up.
I can actually feel the turbo now, which I couldn't before.

 

[Steveiejay]

That's interesting, so is that like a re circulating dump valve? is it the same thing or am I totally off base?

Also where do you find the REV "D" version as this will be the first thing I check I reckon
Are they on eBay?


Thanks

 

[scotty76]

My rev C was green.

 

[Steveiejay]

I don't know what that means scotty

I'd the rev D a new one or more reliable one ?

I just need a link to a good quality one when I check the condition this weekend.
I take it some are better than others?

 

[scotty76]

Sorry managed to reply out of context. Was replying to an earlier comment about the colour of the existing one.

 

[Steveiejay]

Lol no worries

Where is the cheapest place for a quality replacement?

Seems there are several types and prices do I need RevD whatever that means?

 

[novril]

TPS for a genuine one. Rev D means the last letter of the part number. As they update parts they change the letter. Rev D is the latest version I believe.

 

[Steveiejay]

Ok cool TPS ?

Totally new to this sorry

 

[novril]

Trade parts specialists. Basically vag parts to the trade. Usually get a bit of discount from them. Dealers don't like selling trade parts. Hope that makes sense to you. And the parts revisions work like this. Part no 123a is a common fault, they update the part and change to 123b and onwards.

Hopefully that clears it up for you.

 

[Steveiejay]

Thanks buddy your a star!

 

[Av4nt]

Rev D has stronger internals ant not rubber so yes much better

 

[imotepify]

Any one got the part number and a rough price?

 

[novril]

I got one fairly recently from TPS and I'm sure it was around £50 ish. I'll try and find the invoice . My old one wasn't actually split if you are looking for a cheaper fix? I changed mine in error in the end.

 

[Av4nt]

Any one got the part number and a rough price?

The Rev D is about £50-£60 from dealer or TPS. I also have the version you had from when I swapped mine over in good condition still working perfectly, red diaphragm or however its spelt . £30 posted if u want it.

 

[Quattrodude]

I had mine repaired at Awesome GTi in Irlam for £94 and got a car wash thrown in.
The old valve was totally shot, the difference in performance is amazing!

 

[Steveiejay]

The valves must all be Rev D now then ?

 

[arch-stanton]

If you've not already sorted this..

part number O6H145710D which is the uprated spring version..

From under the car, it's on the offside, front of the engine.. 3 bolts to undo, one of the bolts is a bit tricky to get at, I used a angled socket from memory.. An hours job including a tea break admiring the shredded useless DV you're taking off ! :thumbsup:

 

[Steveiejay]

Yup I got a D version on the way thanks buddy

 

[Cumberlandjames]

Although a little late as you have repaired you cars, here is some info you may find useful. I have a 2012 A5 S-line coupe suffering from poor performance and about to order a new diverter valve. Unfortunately my dealer here in Ottawa and Audi Canada can't seem to find anything wrong with the car. Probably because none of them know how to actually troubleshoot other than hook up a computer and hope for a hard failure rather than a degradation. I worked all my life in aircraft maintenance and engineering so this type of response is totally infuriating. Readers can check out the links below which describes in detail the various DVs from Audi and the web site shows a very impressive replacement, superior to what VAG uses. I am ordering one now, well worth the out of pocket expense.
The Ultimate Diverter Valve Information Thread on Audizine
http://www.purems.com

 

[Graemetee]

Out of interest, can the diverter valve be removed from the top or does it need to be done from underneath?

I reckon mine's in need of replacement as the car seems to be a bit on the gutless side. Hopefully it's nothing more serious than this.

 

[Giosabcsl]

It can be done from the top but its very tight.

 

[Cumberlandjames]

I think from the bottom is the easiest way.

 

[Giosabcsl]

Well yes its the easiest way. But he asked if it is possible to do be done from the top. So the answer is yes it can. Thou it is tight.

 

[Graemetee]

Hmmm, I might have to try and figure out where I've hidden my axle stands then and get it jacked up if it's that much easier from underneath!
I'll give it a crack from the top first just in case I get lucky!

 

[Graemetee]

Just a quick update to this thread.

I bought a new diverter valve from Awesome GTI, it arrived a couple of weeks back but I've not had a chance to fit it until now.
I replaced the valve this morning, took about 30 minutes tops with the car jacked up, much easier to replace than I was expecting.

I was a little surprised when I removed the old valve to find that it appeared to be absolutely fine. I had a good look at it and the diaphragm has no splits or tears on it.
As I had a new valve anyway I stuck it on and buttoned everything up as there's no point in returning it when it was only £40 or so.

I've just got back after heading out in the car with the mountain bike.
All I can say is bl**dy hell it goes well now
It's like driving a different car, I thought that it was just the way the car was meant to be previously, seemed a bit flat but I just got on with it.
The difference with the new valve fitted is incredible, it's like it's got an extra 50bhp!

It's fair to say that after thinking the car was only so-so previously, I love it now it's going properly

The only slight problem now is that after having it jacked up I've started noticing a bit of a knock from the front suspension so it looks like that'll be getting fixed next!

 

[ckl139]

Hi all useful thread. I know the work is easier done from underneath but can the valve be seen from up top to identify the revision number. If mines not the latest in thinking I may do mine. Mines a 2008 but since buying it it' never felt like it has the power it should. Esp coming from a supposedly lower powered bmw

 

[Beardymat]

The diverter valve is located on the underside of the turbo on our engines so can not even be seen from above so I'm afraid you will have to get under it.