Another 2.0TDI EGR Valve Cleaning Thread - with before and after pics.

Good Luck!

Check all components are moving freely, and clean the pipes also. What I did was thoroughly clean around the egr and throttle first and then block off with a cloth until ready to fit the parts back on just so no dirt accidentally drops in. It should be pretty clean already and you may see some oil which is normal.
 
Just a question but should the small valve on the EGR be easy to open? I only ask as I couldn't open mine but presumed the motor under the black plastic cover was stopping it from moving
 
Daemon said:
Just a question but should the small valve on the EGR be easy to open? I only ask as I couldn't open mine but presumed the motor under the black plastic cover was stopping it from moving
Click to expand...

Both the valves are electronically controlled. Although the throttle valve is in an open position already you can still open the egr valve. I used a bit of force and was able to open this (use flat screwdriver wrapped tip with cloth to keep open). Dirt accumilates under here and can cause valve to stay open.
 
I went to Audi on Thursday and collected my new gaskets and seals. I was planning on fitting them tomorrow but... rather strangely today the car hasn't juddered once. I have been out and about in it for most of the day and it hasn't juddered once and felt perfect on every shut down yet i haven't touched it at all ?

Strange ! I am now in two minds whether to fit the new gaskets and seals or whether to just leave the thing alone. Any ideas why it has suddenly started behaving ?
 
Oddie said:
I went to Audi on Thursday and collected my new gaskets and seals. I was planning on fitting them tomorrow but... rather strangely today the car hasn't juddered once. I have been out and about in it for most of the day and it hasn't juddered once and felt perfect on every shut down yet i haven't touched it at all ?

Strange ! I am now in two minds whether to fit the new gaskets and seals or whether to just leave the thing alone. Any ideas why it has suddenly started behaving ?
Click to expand...

Sounds a bit like when I take my dog to the vet........ It knows!
 
Richardesty said:
Sounds a bit like when I take my dog to the vet........ It knows!
Click to expand...

Haha, it sounds exactly like that ! I was all set and ready to get my hands black tomorrow morning but now I am not sure whether to bother
 
Oddie said:
Haha, it sounds exactly like that ! I was all set and ready to get my hands black tomorrow morning but now I am not sure whether to bother
Click to expand...

Quit while you're ahead :) , you've always got the parts ready if it misbehaves again
 
Just thought I'd update on my progress on this topic...

I ran the BG44 through a full tank earlier in the month with a mix of economy spec commuting, mixed throttle country lane driving and motorway with a few full load runs up to high speed. Conclusions are:

- Still misfires on warm startup
- Started to smoke slightly on full throttle accel
- Seems to pull more keenly (makes the car feel lighter or as if the handbrake was on one click before)

The last point seemed a clear positive as the car is definitely pulling better now but with this better revving it's highlighted a light misfire (hesitation) throughout the revs once it's on boost. I assumed this was something like EGR or injectors or maybe the MAF.

I went to Audi and bought a gasket set for the EGR assy (thanks for the part numbers chaps!) and spent a hour or so cleaning out the EGR assembly (which was full of crud as per the previous guys).

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349014741468977

- Still misfires on warm startup
- Stopped smoking completely
- Still hesitates under full load
- Pulls the best since owning it
- Engine stops really cleanly on key-off (this is Reeeally noticeable)

I also made up an EGR blank and tried this to see if there was any noticeable difference between a clean EGR and no EGR, however the car went MIL on and into limp straight away, so this came straight out. (I now need the light resetting!)

I guess the smooth cut off is down to the anti judder valve being clean and woking properly, the hesitation is still there so I'm going to wait for its service next month and then look at having the injectors cleaned and possible reblanking the EGR but with the software modded to accept it.

I'm also going to run another can of BG through after the service and then see where we are.

To be continued....
 
- Still misfires on warm startup
- Still hesitates under full load

Mine was the same, changed the vacuum unit on the inlet manifold and it is sooo much better now, been about 2 months and not a blip.

You need to take the egr off again and then remove the inlet manifold, dead easy as long as you know beforehand ( which I didn't ) that there is a bolt inside the air intake which is covered in crud so you cant see it :)

Change the vac unit, it's obvious how to do it once the manifold is off and also clean all the flaps in the manifold with carb cleaner - they will be filthy too.

vac unit is about £10 and the manifold gasget about £3 from TPS

I opened up the old vac unit afterwards and the diaphragm inside had a hole in it.
 
audi upgrades
Thanks for the reply, however I'm not sure what part you're referring to though? What does the vacuum Do you have any pics?

Just to check it is the 2.0 not the 1.9 you're talking about right?

Cheers
 
This is the 2.0 inlet manifold, I can't/couldn't see any vacuum system attached, also the EGR and anti shudder are fully electric?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349037189876151
 
tr3m5 said:
Thanks for the reply, however I'm not sure what part you're referring to though? What does the vacuum Do you have any pics?

Just to check it is the 2.0 not the 1.9 you're talking about right?

Cheers
Click to expand...

2.0 tdi

Here is a pic View attachment 7200

At front of engine near top

Main dealer may not find this part however the part number
is S03G129061C

better still go to TPS they are much nicer in my opinion.

I think it controls the flaps inside the manifold which adjust the air
 
Ok I've found the valve...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349115913133115

Can't seem to find anything that says what it does but for not a lot of money I think I'll change it, would be great if it solved the remaining niggles.

Cheers mate, I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Cheers mate, I'll let you know how it goes!

Please do and have a can or two of carb cleaner at the ready for the flaps in the manifold :)
 
Just been to Audi (it's around the corner from work) and paid £14 for an inlet manifold gasket and the valve. Looks like that's my sunday morning booked then....
 
Let us know how you get on as I hate starting work on my car because everyone said it was simple and then find out it is anything but (usually screws not shifting etc).
 
I always spray a bit of wd-40 before starting the work, and making sure I have all the right tools... took me 20mins to strip pretty straight forward I found.
 
Don't forget about the bolt inside the air intake, it will probably be covered in soot. It caught me out, I spent about 15 minutes tapping the manifold all round with a piece of wood thinking it was stuck on :)
 
Took my egr off today and it's wasnt as dirty as I thought it would be, but still had some build up, so cleaned it all. Didn't take long and refitted easily. It is fiddly but not hard. Didn't take the inlet off, but I'm hoping just doing this will help.
 
Hi there, I've had the same fault and my emmisions control light is on. audi told me a new evr valve is needed. however, this thread has been a great help. My egr was quite dirty but nothing like as bad as the first pics. So now I've cleaned it, changed the gaskets and put it back together. The dam light is still on even after unplugging the battery for a while in hope to reset the EGU.
The two cogs inside the black plastic box seem quite worn could this be causing the light to stay on? Not sure what else I can do without replacing the whole valve. Any help is very gratefully received. Cheers
 
neilenty, same thing happened to me... cleaned the egr which wasn't really that dirty ... but the damn light still wouldn't go off... so i took the vag com and erased the error (motor for intake manifold flap v157 no signal error). unfortunately for me after just leaving the service stopping the engine and starting it for a few times, the light went on again.

today i bought the damn piece, a Siemens VDO egr - and i'm going to mount it this Saturday.

i advise you check out this link: 19558/P3102/012546 - Ross-Tech Wiki, and try to check the fuses and the wires connecting to your egr, Ross Tech recommends to check them out before actually purchasing a new EGR valve.

forgot to ask: do you experience hard shudder when turning OFF the engine? That's what i'm having plus the fuel consumption seems higher these days!

i will keep you posted with my progress :)

thanks,
Stef
 
Hi steff

no shudder. My wiring in to egr is fine (as far as I can tell). Not checked any fuses though. will do that. so still a little confused... Thanks for the reply
 
you should probably try deleting the error with a vag com if you have any... if i remember right the first times it happened to me the car had no other symptoms except for the yellow light... after a few days/weeks it started to shudder when i turned the engine off... check your fuses first, do a full diagnose and see what error you get.

keep in touch .
 
audi upgrades
Audi did a full diagnostic the other day when it has it service, but they only said that the ecr valve needed replacing.
I don't have a vag com myself and don't know anyone with one (except a garage, but I've just moved into an area and don't have any garage that i know/trust (Bolton).
Ive just checked all the fuses and they are all ok.
I'm wondering if the light would reset on its own if the dirt was causing the fault? because if it doesn't then it may be ok but needs resetting once reset. if it does then I may just need a new valve? Having said that, when I took the valve off it was in good condition, albeit dirty, however the white cog in under the black flap was worn in one part and so was the large black cog where the two meet. As such I wonder if this could be causing the light to stay on?
i just don't know. Any help is very kindly received.
 
neilenty i don't really know what to say, some pictures would really help. audi is probably right about this, but if the car has no shudder when you turn off the engine then you can probably still use your current egr valve. believe me your car will shudder like hell when the egr valve is broken - this is my case. i would firstly recommend you get in touch with someone who can delete the error (i actually own a vag com replica, spent $30) and see if it's going to come on again...
 
it's okay... if you cleaned it and placed everything back together then your egr is probably fine. by the way i noticed that you also opened the egr electronic part (that black plastic box), did you noticed any oil leaks there?

as for the vag com, no that's not what i use: Wholesale vag 11.11.3 VAG 11.11.2 VAG 11.11 VAG11.11HEX CAN USB Interface VW Audi Diagnostic Cable, Free shipping, $15.67-20.52/Piece | DHgate -it's chinesse but trust me it works okay!

this is what ii have.. you will also need a notebook with windows xp or 7. you can then delete/check all your errors!
 
btw, that's what i found on a quick google search, i'm not the one selling the product! try finding one in your city, so you can actually test it!
 
Cheers... there was no oil leak in the electronic part. The white cog was a little loose, looks like some of the plastic that holds it in place was worn so it had a little play in it and there were tiny bits of plastic loose in that area.
 
daveevs said:
There is a rubber seal between the anti shudder valve and EGR body, a gasket between the EGR valve body and inlet manifold, and another gasket between the EGR pipe and EGR valve body.
Click to expand...

It's been just over 2 years since I cleaned the EGR valve and now I only make small trips thought I'd check it and clean the intake manifold as well. Lumps of carbon had formed so cleaned it all and made my fingers black (wear gloves people!). Some tricky placed bolts as well. Thing is, I changed the seal on the above but the one from the dealer looked like a red rubber band but the one already in was flatter and more cylindrical. Is there a different seal between the 140 and 170?
 
Wrath said:
Let us know how you get on as I hate starting work on my car because everyone said it was simple and then find out it is anything but (usually screws not shifting etc).
Click to expand...

I know it's been a while since I last posted, I got sidetracked with a house extension so the inlet manifold and vacuum unit never got a look in...

Anyway, the car has been running well lately no issues on startup, still a little smokey on full load at certain speeds but only thing really bothering me has been the 'flat' feeling when accelerating from low speed which it has always had. Obviously i expect some turbo lag but it feels like more than that and after trying a mate's '05 2.0TDi i'm convinced its not right.

Summary of where I am now:
- No fault codes
- Recent service, including fuel and air filters
- Run BG244 through the system
- Cleaned EGR valve and intercooler pipework


After cleaning the EGR I didn't want it re-coking so after my first attempt at removing the EGR with a simple blanking plate (resulted MIL lamp and limp mode) I recently spoke to a few people about mapping it out. After a few phone calls, emails and forum searches I got in touch with Mike at Motech in Northampton and he offered to map out the EGR and apply his 'mild' remap (35bhp/50Nm) at the same time. I went ahead with this today and although I'm happy now that the EGR valve is out of action the re-map doesn't seem to have altered the performance much, and certainly not ~25% more power.

I'm a little surprised as there are plenty of happy customers with the same car, Mike commented it didn't seem to feel quicker and was smoking more than other TDi 140 PDs and offered for me to drive it for a couple of weeks and he will give me a refund if i'm not happy.
It's only day 1 and he advises that the ECU adaptations need to take place to get full effect, but my initial impressions are that the throttle response is definitely quicker (different throttle map) and the car seems to run more smoothly (no EGR?). I haven't blanked the EGR yet but it is mapped shut and Vagcom confirms its stuck at 100% closed at all times.

Mapping wise Vagcom shows a higher fuel delivery pressure and an increase of around 0.2Bar boost (only at high throttle demands), we discussed the performance with the guys at VRS in Northampton and they think based on the state my EGR was in before then cleaning the inlet manifold may make all the difference.

As per my previous posts i bought a new inlet manifold gasket and vacuum unit so i'm going to do the manifold this week and while i've got the car in bits i'll fill the turbine housing with Mr. Muscle oven cleaner and see whether and underperforming VNT may be contributing (VRS think this is normally an issue on cars with high mileage on the clock).

So with the above in place there really isn't much more i can do other than have the injectors properly cleaned (which I don't want to do).

I'll post pics of the inlet cleaning and update on the car's performance...fingers crossed
 
spent 5 hours on the car this afternoon...

First stripped the Inlet assy down, bearing in mind i cleaned the EGR valve around 5k miles ago it was in a terrible state again today:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370640569940514

Now that the valve is fixed closed I cleaned it all back to shiny bare metal again and fitted an ally blanking plate I made from 1.2mm sheet along with another gasket.

I then got the inlet manifold off and as expected it was badly caked in black sludge, over 5mm thick in places! My chosen cleaning method was to scrape out the big chunks and then fill with oven cleaner, leave for 10 mins and then thoroughly blast the innards with a power hose... after 2 rounds the insides were silver again and the switching valves shiny and free to move fully. I also fitted a new actuator even though mine worked fine as they are such a cheap part l.

While the inlet assy was off I also got the oven cleaner down the ports and have them a thorough clean as they were equally caked in thick carbon build up.

I also cleaned the intercooler top hose hose and looked at taking the cooler off to clean it internally but it looks like the bumper and grille need removing to access so have it a miss.

Then I went around the other side if the engine and removed the air box to get access to the turbo. Again the VNT felt fine but I removed the bung out of the turbine housing and filled it with oven cleaner.
While I was doing this i noticed a load of soot around the cooler, turns out the integral pipe between turbo and EGR cooler is leaking where the flange is brazed onto the pipe. I took it off and double checked and the gasket is fine so definitely the pipe, this certainly won't help the low down torque and may be contributing to the flat spot, so now that the EGR is disabled I'm going to make a stainless blank and blank the pipe off right where the EGR leaves the manifold, having looked at the system I'd recommend doing this anyway if you have EGR mapped out as any additional volume (ie pipe between turbo and cooler) will slow down turbo spool-up and this will be even worse if the pipe leaks like mine.

(Pic shows leaking flange)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370641710737257
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370641750554698

I didn't have time to make a blanking plate today so built everything back up with new gaskets where required and tested it.

Unfortunately the flat spot is still there but definitely lesser and the car seems to drive much more smoothly, especially when accelerating, power is much more progressively delivered and less smoke for sure.

If I can find some stainless sheet ill finish the job by blacking the EGR off at the cooler tomorrow and that is pretty much all I will do now other than run another tank with BG244 now it's EGR and sludge free...
 
tr3m5 said:
spent 5 hours on the car this afternoon...

First stripped the Inlet assy down, bearing in mind i cleaned the EGR valve around 5k miles ago it was in a terrible state again today:

View attachment 16585

Now that the valve is fixed closed I cleaned it all back to shiny bare metal again and fitted an ally blanking plate I made from 1.2mm sheet along with another gasket.

I then got the inlet manifold off and as expected it was badly caked in black sludge, over 5mm thick in places! My chosen cleaning method was to scrape out the big chunks and then fill with oven cleaner, leave for 10 mins and then thoroughly blast the innards with a power hose... after 2 rounds the insides were silver again and the switching valves shiny and free to move fully. I also fitted a new actuator even though mine worked fine as they are such a cheap part l.

While the inlet assy was off I also got the oven cleaner down the ports and have them a thorough clean as they were equally caked in thick carbon build up.

I also cleaned the intercooler top hose hose and looked at taking the cooler off to clean it internally but it looks like the bumper and grille need removing to access so have it a miss.

Then I went around the other side if the engine and removed the air box to get access to the turbo. Again the VNT felt fine but I removed the bung out of the turbine housing and filled it with oven cleaner.
While I was doing this i noticed a load of soot around the cooler, turns out the integral pipe between turbo and EGR cooler is leaking where the flange is brazed onto the pipe. I took it off and double checked and the gasket is fine so definitely the pipe, this certainly won't help the low down torque and may be contributing to the flat spot, so now that the EGR is disabled I'm going to make a stainless blank and blank the pipe off right where the EGR leaves the manifold, having looked at the system I'd recommend doing this anyway if you have EGR mapped out as any additional volume (ie pipe between turbo and cooler) will slow down turbo spool-up and this will be even worse if the pipe leaks like mine.

(Pic shows leaking flange)
View attachment 16586
View attachment 16587

I didn't have time to make a blanking plate today so built everything back up with new gaskets where required and tested it.

Unfortunately the flat spot is still there but definitely lesser and the car seems to drive much more smoothly, especially when accelerating, power is much more progressively delivered and less smoke for sure.

If I can find some stainless sheet ill finish the job by blacking the EGR off at the cooler tomorrow and that is pretty much all I will do now other than run another tank with BG244 now it's EGR and sludge free...
Click to expand...

I have been reading the thread and was interested if the blanking plate cured the slow response at low rpm......

I had the EGR mapped out and the DPF removed but car just feels the same........I really believe that there is some mileage in the vacuum theory regarding leaks or the vnt is sticking......
 
Hello All

I'm a Mulitskilled Engineer .....I fix things

Anyway .. My symptoms on AUDI A4 2006 73k on the clock .. on my way to ireland it lostpower.... It was an intermittent fault loosing power then regaining it again. overtaking on a hill was a hit or a miss ..very frustating ..intermittent faults are always the hardest to diagnose than a component failure .

As per blogs I cleaned out the EGR valve which was as clogged up with carbon... so I thought FIXED.. I was wrong !!

I nearly gave up .. I was about to take it to a garage as my colleagues had suggested.... butI thought .. to get beat .........na.....
T does not not give up... I decided to look at the motor and gearbox within the EGR.... So one again I removed it ....I had to overcome one of the bolts holding the Motor gearboxcover being plugged up with a glue type resin... why would Audi do such a thing ... £££££££..... I used a knife and some patience to overcome... see pictures attached.. COGS were worn away.. so worn that the mechanism wouldn't work ... so I drilled a hole fitted a screw...work it out if you can its in the pictures... I'm at full power all the time.. I know the valve wont fully close but its not made any differenceto the cars performance.
Also my symptoms were of erratic idle. the car shook a bit every know and again

Yesthe part needs changed......in due course.. £159 on ebay
 
Hello All

I'm a Mulitskilled Engineer .....I fix things

Anyway .. My symptoms on AUDI A4 2006 73k on the clock .. on my way to ireland it lostpower.... It was an intermittent fault loosing power then regaining it again. overtaking on a hill was a hit or a miss ..very frustating ..intermittent faults are always the hardest to diagnose than a component failure .

As per blogs I cleaned out the EGR valve which was as clogged up with carbon... so I thought FIXED.. I was wrong !!

I nearly gave up .. I was about to take it to a garage as my colleagues had suggested.... butI thought .. to get beat .........na.....
T does not not give up... I decided to look at the motor and gearbox within the EGR.... So one again I removed it ....I had to overcome one of the bolts holding the Motor gearboxcover being plugged up with a glue type resin... why would Audi do such a thing ... £££££££..... I used a knife and some patience to overcome... see pictures attached.. COGS were worn away.. so worn that the mechanism wouldn't work ... so I drilled a hole fitted a screw...work it out if you can its in the pictures... I'm at full power all the time.. I know the valve wont fully close but its not made any differenceto the cars performance.
Also my symptoms were of erratic idle. the car shook a bit every know and again

Yesthe part needs changed......in due course.. £159 on ebay

How do I attach pictures.......
 
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