Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

excellent thread. i was wondering if anyone could help me, i have a broken storage box that dosnt go all the way down, is there anyway to keep it down by messing with the mechanism? and also there is a microswitch that is, i believe to do with the roof storage "lid" does anyone know where it goes exactly and in what position ( as i took it out and don't remember where and how it goes back on ) .
any help appreciated, thanks ali
 
zedzo said:
excellent thread. i was wondering if anyone could help me, i have a broken storage box that dosnt go all the way down, is there anyway to keep it down by messing with the mechanism? and also there is a microswitch that is, i believe to do with the roof storage "lid" does anyone know where it goes exactly and in what position ( as i took it out and don't remember where and how it goes back on ) .
any help appreciated, thanks ali
Click to expand...

Hello Zedo,

See this link posted by JasonS on page 3
 
Krumz said:
Hello Zedo,

See this link posted by JasonS on page 3
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply, ive done this i think my storage box was damaged from one side ( the rotars? or whatever it uses inside ) is there anyway to keep it down without replacing it, as i cant seem to find another one so far.
 
Hi there . I have noticed on various threads that there is a fix for a faulty soft top. Mine is doing the same . It opens slightly and then no more. The problem I had was that the Camshaft Pulley went and took the power steering with it . Since then the hood hasn't worked . I have a new pulley but no working hood . Is the pulley problem linked to the hood issue ?
 
mikeyg46 said:
Hi there . I have noticed on various threads that there is a fix for a faulty soft top. Mine is doing the same . It opens slightly and then no more. The problem I had was that the Camshaft Pulley went and took the power steering with it . Since then the hood hasn't worked . I have a new pulley but no working hood . Is the pulley problem linked to the hood issue ?
Click to expand...

Check your fuses, sounds like the motor brushes are not making contact, knock the motor and see if that works.....
 
zedzo said:
thanks for the reply, ive done this i think my storage box was damaged from one side ( the rotars? or whatever it uses inside ) is there anyway to keep it down without replacing it, as i cant seem to find another one so far.
Click to expand...

Hi, not taken one apart myself but there must be a way....it might just be easier to replace it though....
 
Hello hello.
I bought a nice newish (2006) 1.8T Cabrio in the UK and all was fine.
I exported to Finland as I am British but live here and cars way more expensive here.
But anyway I accidentally stopped the roof as it was closing when my wife wanted to put something in the boot and so from then on the roof doesn't open and close automatically.

So what have I done. Well first I tried the 2-3 times manual effort which is a bit of a task on my own (the roof is actually quite heavy pulling up and down from one side). That didn't solve it. Note - I have had the flashing roof light on.
I undertook the lengthy check and clean on the commutator with the motor - took yonks to actually get all the bits from the back out - but with great pictures, :) from this thread, managed it.

So.... came to try and the light wasn't flashing any more BUT it didn't work.
First the roof went up nicely and the metal cover went up but before the roof came down and tucked in the metal cover started to close :(
I had to manually go under the back seat to release the lock as it was locked?! and then shut the cover and put the roof back up (closed) as it wouldn't close.
I might have one more go at a manual reset (2 times) but I don't have much hope.
I went to Audi (Espoo, Finland) before I tried the motor clean and they said "€75 thanks very much for a check which gave some error code" and followed up with a "next visit will be a time with the electrician and we will call if the work goes over €300" .. nice.

When the lights were out on the dash (after you start you always get all lights on but then they all go out) I was hopeful.

I am not an electrician and don't know any good independent Audi dealers here and for some weird reason they don't tend to have a lot of cabrios here .. (something to do with the snow and minus temps in the Winter).

Any thoughts .. I really thought it was near but when the back metal cover started slowly going down instead of the roof being stored I was saying 'nooooo'. :(

Frustrated cab owner in sunny, soon to be collllldddddd Finlandia.

.. update ..
Well I tried manually opening and then closing twice with the ignition on but to no avail .. :(
 
Last edited:
johnnyfinlandia said:
Hello hello.
I bought a nice newish (2006) 1.8T Cabrio in the UK and all was fine.
I exported to Finland as I am British but live here and cars way more expensive here.
But anyway I accidentally stopped the roof as it was closing when my wife wanted to put something in the boot and so from then on the roof doesn't open and close automatically.

So what have I done. Well first I tried the 2-3 times manual effort which is a bit of a task on my own (the roof is actually quite heavy pulling up and down from one side). That didn't solve it. Note - I have had the flashing roof light on.
I undertook the lengthy check and clean on the commutator with the motor - took yonks to actually get all the bits from the back out - but with great pictures, :) from this thread, managed it.

So.... came to try and the light wasn't flashing any more BUT it didn't work.
First the roof went up nicely and the metal cover went up but before the roof came down and tucked in the metal cover started to close :(
I had to manually go under the back seat to release the lock as it was locked?! and then shut the cover and put the roof back up (closed) as it wouldn't close.
I might have one more go at a manual reset (2 times) but I don't have much hope.
I went to Audi (Espoo, Finland) before I tried the motor clean and they said "€75 thanks very much for a check which gave some error code" and followed up with a "next visit will be a time with the electrician and we will call if the work goes over €300" .. nice.

When the lights were out on the dash (after you start you always get all lights on but then they all go out) I was hopeful.

I am not an electrician and don't know any good independent Audi dealers here and for some weird reason they don't tend to have a lot of cabrios here .. (something to do with the snow and minus temps in the Winter).

Any thoughts .. I really thought it was near but when the back metal cover started slowly going down instead of the roof being stored I was saying 'nooooo'. :(

Frustrated cab owner in sunny, soon to be collllldddddd Finlandia.

.. update ..
Well I tried manually opening and then closing twice with the ignition on but to no avail .. :(
Click to expand...

Hi Johnny,

The repair guide is only if the roof unclips and doesnt open, from the sounds of it you have a different problem. Have you put the car on a diagnostic?
 
Hi Krumz

Well I had a small service (oil, filters and all-round brake pads) done first at a local garage who have an Audi computer and there were LOADS of faults.

Address 26: Auto Roof
- 2000 Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal

Address 45: Inter., Monitor
- 01350 - Alarm via Theft Warning System; Rear
081 - Open
- 01839 - Transceiver Module 1 for Interior Monitoring (G303)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 46: Central Conv.
- 01370 - Alarm Triggered by Interior Monitoring
- 00962 - Alarm via. Tilt Sensor
- 01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch
- 01371 - Alarm Triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side

Address 56: radio
- 00858 Connection; radio ZF Output to Antenna Amplifier
29-00 Short to Ground

Then I had a basic mini service at MAIN AUDI DEALER - basically a 'check' (mentioned above at VV-Audi in Espoo) and the only fault I can see on their sheet is
- J256

I have a funny feeling that Audi might know and then say it is a grand (1K€) to fix or something daft :(

Cheers
John
 
I did have the top down today (last bit of Autumn Finnish sunshine) and it's a great car .. my only other cabrio was a TVR Griffith in the mid Nineties and it aint as noisy as that but the drive is much smoother :) Just wish the roof was automatic :D
 
johnnyfinlandia said:
Hi Krumz

Well I had a small service (oil, filters and all-round brake pads) done first at a local garage who have an Audi computer and there were LOADS of faults.

Address 26: Auto Roof
- 2000 Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal

Address 45: Inter., Monitor
- 01350 - Alarm via Theft Warning System; Rear
081 - Open
- 01839 - Transceiver Module 1 for Interior Monitoring (G303)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 46: Central Conv.
- 01370 - Alarm Triggered by Interior Monitoring
- 00962 - Alarm via. Tilt Sensor
- 01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch
- 01371 - Alarm Triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side

Address 56: radio
- 00858 Connection; radio ZF Output to Antenna Amplifier
29-00 Short to Ground

Then I had a basic mini service at MAIN AUDI DEALER - basically a 'check' (mentioned above at VV-Audi in Espoo) and the only fault I can see on their sheet is
- J256

I have a funny feeling that Audi might know and then say it is a grand (1K€) to fix or something daft :(

Cheers
John
Click to expand...

Hi johnny,

Wouldt worry about the rest of the codes as most of them seem to be related to the alarm...., does the radio work ?

The two things of concern are:
Address 26: Auto Roof
- 2000 Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal

Which basically means there is a problem with one of the position switches in your roof. Not sure which one, would need more information....

J256 is the roof control module, Audi may be saying there is a fault code stores in there.
 
Krumz said:
Hi johnny,

Wouldt worry about the rest of the codes as most of them seem to be related to the alarm...., does the radio work ?

The two things of concern are:
Address 26: Auto Roof
- 2000 Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal

Which basically means there is a problem with one of the position switches in your roof. Not sure which one, would need more information....

J256 is the roof control module, Audi may be saying there is a fault code stores in there.
Click to expand...
____

OK so I took it to my local garage who has a very good ex-Audi bloke with all the gear. The bill this morning was €200 for his 3.5 hours effort in checking all the switches and hydraulics.

This is his report ..

"Fault codes checked on code switch data switch illogical data checked.
Roof closed, all switches OK.
The roof opens the door switch information is not correct.
Door before the door falls down the roof is controlled by hydraulic valves of internal bleeding.
May have to be new to the hydraulic cylinders."

He reset all the switches with his system and the roof was the same (I confirmed that before by manually doing the same as suggested in this Forum).

Essentially he says it is 99% likely that a new Vent (Valve) Block 8H0871806D is needed @ €1200 from Audi plus €4-500 fitting. Nice. :( I found it cheaper (a little) from Germany https://www.hcsale.com/shop/8H0871806D plus VAT and shipping to Finland but still have to add garage work.

He noticed (and I did also) that the back part of the car (metal cover which should stay vertical when the roof is pushed in to the boot) doesn't stay vertical but slowly goes down causing the bad sequence. He says that is due to some blockage in the hydraulics and the new valve should cure.

I have looked on Ebay and there are none of these little boxes. Only options are:
- buy part from DE, get local garage to fit (I will remove as much of the panel in the back as possible.
- get Audi to double check at probably even more money and then fix at even more ..
- use the roof manually which is ridiculous (especially trying to use the T-piece)
- ??

Still like the car but having to change the lights (it is a RHD and I live in Fin) and now with this fault making me a little less pleased with the car :( Live and learn. Not paid the import car tax yet which will be decided when I get the car MOT-ready. If that is a shock then the whole car may have to be taken back to UK and sold :( .. remind me again why I am living in Finland :D
 
Hi Justin, well if you have a 8H0871806D part
which is in good working order then let me know.
Cheers
John
 
johnnyfinlandia said:
____

OK so I took it to my local garage who has a very good ex-Audi bloke with all the gear. The bill this morning was €200 for his 3.5 hours effort in checking all the switches and hydraulics.

This is his report ..

"Fault codes checked on code switch data switch illogical data checked.
Roof closed, all switches OK.
The roof opens the door switch information is not correct.
Door before the door falls down the roof is controlled by hydraulic valves of internal bleeding.
May have to be new to the hydraulic cylinders."

He reset all the switches with his system and the roof was the same (I confirmed that before by manually doing the same as suggested in this Forum).

Essentially he says it is 99% likely that a new Vent (Valve) Block 8H0871806D is needed @ €1200 from Audi plus €4-500 fitting. Nice. :( I found it cheaper (a little) from Germany https://www.hcsale.com/shop/8H0871806D plus VAT and shipping to Finland but still have to add garage work.

He noticed (and I did also) that the back part of the car (metal cover which should stay vertical when the roof is pushed in to the boot) doesn't stay vertical but slowly goes down causing the bad sequence. He says that is due to some blockage in the hydraulics and the new valve should cure.

I have looked on Ebay and there are none of these little boxes. Only options are:
- buy part from DE, get local garage to fit (I will remove as much of the panel in the back as possible.
- get Audi to double check at probably even more money and then fix at even more ..
- use the roof manually which is ridiculous (especially trying to use the T-piece)
- ??

Still like the car but having to change the lights (it is a RHD and I live in Fin) and now with this fault making me a little less pleased with the car :( Live and learn. Not paid the import car tax yet which will be decided when I get the car MOT-ready. If that is a shock then the whole car may have to be taken back to UK and sold :( .. remind me again why I am living in Finland :D
Click to expand...

Hi johnny I am not entirely convinced by the diagnosis above, as it appears to have some conflicting information.

"May have to be new to the hydraulic cylinder": Does this mean you need new hydraulic cylinders?
"new Vent (Valve) Block 8H0871806D": Is he saying to replace the hydraulic valve unit? Why? If it is a blockage then dismantling and putting it together should fix it, unless one of the valves it leaking. But Im am sure this is serviceable as it comprises of mechanical components

Look at the beginning of this thread where I have posted some links and you will find one on the Hydraulic Block Sequence Diagram. This should pinpoint which valve is faulty and you could maybe check it with a pressure gauge..
 
Krumz, what a helpful post! Thanks so much.

We tried your technique today and unfortunately, it didn't fix my A4's problem. Hmmmm. The top will go partially up from the down position but doesn't do anything from the up position. We've also 'reset' the top so many times, we're almost professionals at it. That's not the problem either. Now I'm getting the following codes:
-- 01992
-- 01986
-- 02000 switch position implausible signal

(We have the vag software but it's not a registered copy so the information is limited.)

Any suggestions of what to try next?? THANK YOU!
 
Cabrio NY Girl said:
Krumz, what a helpful post! Thanks so much.

We tried your technique today and unfortunately, it didn't fix my A4's problem. Hmmmm. The top will go partially up from the down position but doesn't do anything from the up position. We've also 'reset' the top so many times, we're almost professionals at it. That's not the problem either. Now I'm getting the following codes:
-- 01992
-- 01986
-- 02000 switch position implausible signal

(We have the vag software but it's not a registered copy so the information is limited.)

Any suggestions of what to try next?? THANK YOU!
Click to expand...

Hi, you need to identify which switch it is and if it's giving the correct reading under measuring blocks. If you can post your measuring blocks output for the switch positions for when the roof is opened and closed I'll compare it against mine...
 
Krumz said:
Hi, you need to identify which switch it is and if it's giving the correct reading under measuring blocks. If you can post your measuring blocks output for the switch positions for when the roof is opened and closed I'll compare it against mine...
Click to expand...

OK. Interestingly enough, the 01992 error message is gone now. So we're down to 01986 and 02000 for error codes.

As for measuring block output, when the top is CLOSED, it says:
- convertible top control switch> open
- switches & positions I> 00111010
- switches & positions II> 10 1010
- top frame position(G356)> 9.0
(when the convertible top control switch says closed, these numbers don't change.

When the top is OPEN, it says:
- convertible top control switch> closed
- switches & positions I> 00111010
- switches & positions II> 10 1110
- top frame position (G356)> fluctuating between 10.0 and 9.0

For your information, we found this youtube video that shows what our top is doing... Audi A4 convertible soft top problem - YouTube. Basically our top is getting stuck at the end of the closing sequence. The rear of the top doesn't want to raise to allow for the metal top cover to come down AND the very front of the top doesn't want to latch to the windshield. (And just for fun, the top doesn't want to OPEN at all!)

Thanks so much!
 
zedzo said:
excellent thread. i was wondering if anyone could help me, i have a broken storage box that dosnt go all the way down, is there anyway to keep it down by messing with the mechanism? and also there is a microswitch that is, i believe to do with the roof storage "lid" does anyone know where it goes exactly and in what position ( as i took it out and don't remember where and how it goes back on ) .
any help appreciated, thanks ali
Click to expand...

This problem we did solve! You can totally bypass the power top storage box and NOT have to spend $1000 to replace it if it breaks.
If you remove all parts of the storage box, the microswitch is on the right side of the trunk, where the box would land if it were down. Assuming the switch is still working, you can wrap a rubber band around it to secure it in the 'down' position, telling the car that the box is down and it's okay to put the top down. Then we've tucked the switch back away behind the carpeting to ensure it doesn't get in the way.
Also, I THINK that if the microswitch is not working, the two end wires can be spliced together to fool the car as well. It just needs to make the loop and tell the car it's okay to use the top.
 
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Andy,

I had this problem today and after working out how to manually close the roof I decided to close half way and then place the hood back in the boot. Switched ignition back on and it closed automatically.....

I had no warning signs and wonder if it was just confused or switches noy align?

Steve
 
Cabrio NY Girl said:
OK. Interestingly enough, the 01992 error message is gone now. So we're down to 01986 and 02000 for error codes.

As for measuring block output, when the top is CLOSED, it says:
- convertible top control switch> open
- switches & positions I> 00111010
- switches & positions II> 10 1010
- top frame position(G356)> 9.0
(when the convertible top control switch says closed, these numbers don't change.

When the top is OPEN, it says:
- convertible top control switch> closed
- switches & positions I> 00111010
- switches & positions II> 10 1110
- top frame position (G356)> fluctuating between 10.0 and 9.0

For your information, we found this youtube video that shows what our top is doing... Audi A4 convertible soft top problem - YouTube. Basically our top is getting stuck at the end of the closing sequence. The rear of the top doesn't want to raise to allow for the metal top cover to come down AND the very front of the top doesn't want to latch to the windshield. (And just for fun, the top doesn't want to OPEN at all!)

Thanks so much!
Click to expand...

Sorry for taking so long in getting back to you, what are the measuring blocks No that you have been reading? (I just want to make sure we are comparing the same addresses)
 
Ok, Krumz, are you ready for more parts of the puzzle of my A4?

We found the Convertible Top Tensioner Position Sender - G356 was broken, so we've replaced it. This has moved us forward!
Now we're getting the error message 01996 -- convertible top lock switch (open) - f294. It SEEMS like everything is working except for the front does not want to clip to the windshield. It won't latch. This also means it won't open because it won't UNlatch either.

Interestingly enough, the top unlatched once (the only time we tried it) with the key in the door but refuses to do so with the switch from inside the car. It's starting to make us crazy! Any ideas??
 
Cabrio NY Girl said:
Ok, Krumz, are you ready for more parts of the puzzle of my A4?

We found the Convertible Top Tensioner Position Sender - G356 was broken, so we've replaced it. This has moved us forward!
Now we're getting the error message 01996 -- convertible top lock switch (open) - f294. It SEEMS like everything is working except for the front does not want to clip to the windshield. It won't latch. This also means it won't open because it won't UNlatch either.

Interestingly enough, the top unlatched once (the only time we tried it) with the key in the door but refuses to do so with the switch from inside the car. It's starting to make us crazy! Any ideas??
Click to expand...

Right then thats great news ! You seem to be an expert !(probably better than i would be!), I've finally managed to get round to looking at this. Firstly comparing your measuring blocks output to

Audi A4 (8E) Automatic Roof - Ross-Tech Wiki

It appears that G356 was the bow position sensor as these values did not change, hence faulty, which is inline with what you said.

Also the measuring block data for when the roof is opened is different to what is on Rosstech's site, I would recommend to clear the codes open and to check the measuring blocks with the roof open and closed once again. This should help identify any other switches giving an incorrect reading.

The fault code 01996 is for the top lock open switch f294- which appears to be integral to the top lock motor, see link to VAG manual below

ElsaWeb - Exploded view of electrical components of convertible top actuator mechanism

Also on the first page of this thread there is a wiring diagram, find the switch on the diagram, open the motor, check, find the switch and test it using a multimeter ...
 
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Mine is going to Audi Thursday as I don't have the gear to check switches. Roof still doesn't work correctly.

They (Audi Finland) charge €176 per hour and a one-off €75 for the computer check. So I have asked to sit there and get an update every hour! Otherwise my VISA will be empty. :(

Just hope they see which switch it is and can replace at that point and not say come back another day for a fix which will again cost more :( .. if it is the switch and not the whole motor.

Should have bought a Volvo C70 cab !!
 
johnnyfinlandia said:
Mine is going to Audi Thursday as I don't have the gear to check switches. Roof still doesn't work correctly.

They (Audi Finland) charge €176 per hour and a one-off €75 for the computer check. So I have asked to sit there and get an update every hour! Otherwise my VISA will be empty. :(

Just hope they see which switch it is and can replace at that point and not say come back another day for a fix which will again cost more :( .. if it is the switch and not the whole motor.

Should have bought a Volvo C70 cab !!
Click to expand...

Hi Johnny,

As you didn't respond I was under the impression that you resolved it. My personal opinion is that the diagnosis by the independent dealer is incorrect and the issue is due to the Bow position sensor G356 (which is to do with the fault code 02000)

Remind me again, do you have access to Vagcom?

Looking at the issues encountered by Cabrio NY Girl, the fault code 02000 is related to the bow positions sensor G356. I would recommend to read the correspondence above also see link below:

02000 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Also if you look at the measuring blocks and compare it to the link below you should be able to see if the Bow Position Sensor is giving the correct readings

Audi A4 (8E) Automatic Roof - Ross-Tech Wiki
 
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Reactions: johnnyfinlandia
Thanks for feedback. No I don't have a VAG Computer. The independent guy did and charged €200 for 2.5 hours work and said it needed a new block for €1000 & fitting hence my reasoning to take to Audi. (Who originally diagnosed the 2000 fault). I will complain after that he misdiagnosed if indeed it is only a switch.

If it is a switch (Bow Position) which is faulty are they easy to swap (I mean for Audi) and don't cost too much? I read that one solution (above) was to tape or rubber-band the switch but Audi won't do that and where is that switch ? How does that help by the way .. is it just ensuring that the switch is not squeezed the wrong way and correctly acknowledges when it should be open/closed ?

If Audi have a new G536 and I replace .. or indeed can I .. I mean if they are sealed somehow linked to the main distributor? If it is EASY and CHEAP to replace I will try and get one today before Thursday so I could avoid Audi.

Thanks
John
 
Well I rang Audi Espoo (and Cardiff) and
€89 (Espoo, Finland) £67 (Cardiff, UK)
code - 8H0959613A
G356 Potentiometer (I mis-spelt it before as G536)
But they can't get it for a day :(
I have to buy it in case it is needed .. another possible cost but by the sounds of it maybe the correct one.
Not a clue where it goes but if it comes tomorrow I could try and fit it.
.. or at least it is there in case the Engineer needs it ..
 
Last edited:
Johnny,

woww woowwww slow dowwwn !!

Firstly I would not recommend carrying out any repairs without the correct diagnostic, a basic version Vagcom cable should cost no more than 20£ and you can download VCDS Lite for free off Rosstech's website. Then read the measuring blocks and compare them to the measuring blocks link on Rosstechs website.

Also do not be offended but you need to spend a little more time reading the post above, the repair with the rubber band is for the hood storage compartment. The fault code 02000 is for the bow position sensor which Cabrio NY... did replace. Also look above and you will find a link to the online VAG manual this should tell you how to replace the G356 sensor.

This is item 4 on the link on my post #145 "ElsaWeb - Exploded view of electrical components of convertible top actuator mechanism"
 
VagPro said:
...The fault code 02000 is for the bow position sensor which Cabrio NY... did replace. Also look above and you will find a link to the online VAG manual this should tell you how to replace the G356 sensor.

This is item 4 on the link on my post #145 "ElsaWeb - Exploded view of electrical components of convertible top actuator mechanism"
Click to expand...

If that's your problem, the bow position sensor was super cheap and easy to replace. It's located in the top right side, near the rear and pops right out with the top in half-up-half-down position. Fixed the problem and cleared the code!
I definitely agree with VagPro; the basic Vagcom diagnostic stuff is WELL WORTH the cost to be able to avoid the dealer! That's what I'm trying to do -- save money and avoid the dealer (while enjoying the challenge of working through these automotive puzzles). :eek:)
 
Well I have a working roof ! :)
Happy Days. Well until the snow arrives which could be any day now :(

I replaced the Bow Sensor €85 and it didn't work, although the roof did close in front which it didn't do before
Audi expert told me in 5 mins that it was one of two other switches that could be at fault.
He opened one and added some grease. The part was 8H0825395B. (€250 for that switch if it breaks though)
He also said there was air in the system and tested the roof over 10 times and all working now. So toal for all his work and getting the roof working again - €310 :( But it is now working again :)

So the first dealer (my normal garage) had mis-diagnosed the fault (replace the whole roof unit with the 20 connectors at a silly price and fitting circa €1500 here). I am currently in discussion with him for refund of that €200 as it was a clearly poor and incorrect advice.

Anyway very pleased this time with Audi and the guy who worked on it seemed to completely know these systems.
I am however going to get the VAG Lite SW and a small lead - I didn't know it was that cheap

Yes I was a little hasty but as I had the Audi specialist booked (who only comes to this part every 2 weeks) I wanted to try the switch just in case that was it. In the end it might have been that (G356) adding to the fault.

Also still have the lights to sort but that is in another thread (Have installed LHD rear lights but have fog and reverse lights wroing way round now).

So back to topic thanks for the help and is there any VAG lead I can use (there seemed a million on Ebay) or is there a specific one.
I can then use it next time to at least see where the fault could be as you say. :)
 
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Reactions: VagPro
I've read all the pages on this topic my roof is doing the same so I think I'm leaning to spending the time stripping the motor down

I have scanned the car and there's no faults in the auto roof module

There is one fault Code in the central electrics module 09

There's no noise from the hydraulic pump so I'm thinking the fuse has gone

Just want to ask people what they would do next should I take the boot and motor apart or is there something else I should check first?

I want to test the motor to see I'd power is getting to it but how do I go about that due to the boot having to be closed for the roof to open ???
 
Gazthesparky said:
I've read all the pages on this topic my roof is doing the same so I think I'm leaning to spending the time stripping the motor down

I have scanned the car and there's no faults in the auto roof module

There is one fault Code in the central electrics module 09

There's no noise from the hydraulic pump so I'm thinking the fuse has gone

Just want to ask people what they would do next should I take the boot and motor apart or is there something else I should check first?

I want to test the motor to see I'd power is getting to it but how do I go about that due to the boot having to be closed for the roof to open ???
Click to expand...


Hi Gaz,

Just give the motor a few knocks once you have the cover off, that should get it going. If that doesnt work you should be able to tamp two wires off it, run them out of the boot and connect them to a multimeter.

If that is the issue, don't forget to loosen the brushes in the carriers by prying them open slightly (see 1st page for more info)
 
Well great news I got the roof working :-D

It was annoying me the roof not working so tonight I decided to have a go at it.

Stripped the boot lining out, tested to see if the motor was getting voltage and it was so I stripped down the hydraulic motor to find the brushes were stuck so cleaned the arbour with some sand paper and opened the brush linings so they are free to move reassembled and cleared the fault codes and hey presto it's all working.

So just want to say thanks for the brilliant guide and for everyone who is having problems as described then try this

Just thought I would ask, for now the brushes in the motor are fine but just wandering if anyone knows where to buy replacement brushes. I know there is the company listed in this thread who will refurbish the motor but just wandered if anyone had sourced replacement brushes and swapped them out.

Once again thanks to everyone on the forum for providing some amazing advice and putting an end to my roof worries.
 
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Hi Gaz,

Glad you got it sorted!!! I know its a great feeling knowing the fact its working regardless off the weather....

In regard to brushes I did speak to the people who refurbish the motor and they said they can supply the brushes. However I would probably try some brushes out of a high powered RC car. (should be able to get them from a model shop)

On a side note, did you install puddle lights? How do you illuminate the cup holder? Ive installed "mood" lighting in mine (using high powered LED's from Maplins into the interior light holes)
 
Hi vagpro

I installed the puddle lights in my cab I brought some looms from Robin A3 on here and wired them into the door modules.

I have installed footwell lights aswell I made my own loom up for these and installed and coded them into the car

I also installed the interior door handle illumination LEDs by buying the bits and cutting the holes into the existing handles

The cup holder led I brought a donor unit from a scrap yard it was an a3 one so the wrong shape but it had the led and the clear lense and plastic bits needed. My cup holder had the spaces for the light so swapped the fittings from the donor unit. I then sold the donor unit minus the led on eBay

Then I ordered a couple of plastic 2pin connectors from Audi the ones that connect to vent illuminations. I made a Y chord so I could unplug one of the vent illuminations to give me power and then it had 2 ends on it one to plug back into the vent illumination and the other for the cup holder led.

I had a couple of left over OEM LEDs so I drilled a hole in the sun glasses holder in the dash and wired them up so there is red light in there when I open it up at night

And I will change the bushes if it breaks again but for now I'm happy it's working again
 
Hi all,
Excuse me for my english :)
I've the same problem described in this thread, month ago i've pulled out my electric motor, cleaned the brushes and all work fine. Recently the problem come back again, I've pulled out again the electric motor and did the same things, but the roof not work.

I have noticed that there is a brush that is completely locked, while the other is free to move.
Must move both?
how do I unlock it?
how can I make sure it gets electricity to the motor?
how do I place the multimeter?
How can I accept myself that the motor is not completely broken?
by scanning with vag not find errors in the form of the roof


thank you all :)
 
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