A3 TQS GT28rs anyone done it

69rush69

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I want to get a bigger turbo but for the money a ko4 just doesn't seem enough of a gain for how much it's going to cost.
i have a ko3s is it a straight bolt on - off to switch to a gt28rs
 
No, you need to change all the same parts as you would for a K04, but using Garrett specific components.

IE manifold, downpipe, coolant and oil lines, TIP, charge pipes.
 
Thanks for the info, I was looking on eBay for one but they only had ones for the fwd not the Quattro. Looks like I'm gonna have to give them a call to get all the parts I'm gonna need.

Would it be sensible to put the turbo on first (with low boost) then start upgrading the internals as and when I get the money or put the turbo on last
 
You will still need injectors and a custom map too...

<tuffty/>
I was thinking 550cc they should be ok for 300bhp
i also saw a gt28 that uses the standard manifold and down pipe that's why I thought it would go straight on
 
550's, S3 maf tube and a suitable inlet pipe too...

That turbo 'kit' is typically 'bolt' on in that respect but there are supporting mods required to make it all work without nuking your engine..

On a build like this I would be doing the rods too :)

<tuffty/>
 
550's, S3 maf tube and a suitable inlet pipe too...

That turbo 'kit' is typically 'bolt' on in that respect but there are supporting mods required to make it all work without nuking your engine..

On a build like this I would be doing the rods too :)

<tuffty/>

The standard rods are good till 280 I think I read it on here somewhere but I don't plan to get that much power out of it till at least Christmas then I can ask Santa for them.
 
The standard rods are good till 280 I think I read it on here somewhere but I don't plan to get that much power out of it till at least Christmas then I can ask Santa for them.

Ignore anything about what power rods are good too mate as at the age of the engines its too subjective... I have seen rods bend on std power and stage 2 power so power at this stage of the engines life is irrelevant... and its torque (cylinder pressure to be precise) that bends rods not power...

The rods can bend at any stage of tune these days due to wear and tear hence recommending them... Prawn has managed to make his std rods last on his 200k miles engine but he is very aware of what could happen...

Obviously its your call and you know how you drive and can have the engine mapped to calm down the onset of massive amounts of boost and timing advance to minimise the risk but tbh you would be silly to ignore changing the rods sooner rather than later..

<tuffty/>
 
That's a good point I like to think I wouldnt give it some but I probably will lol, is there any you could recommend.
 
That's a good point I like to think I wouldnt give it some but I probably will lol, is there any you could recommend.

IE or Brute as long as they are rifle drilled... Bill keeps drilled IE's in stock...

<tuffty/>
 
IE or Brute as long as they are rifle drilled... Bill keeps drilled IE's in stock...

<tuffty/>

Thanks for that will be giving him a call in the next few days. is it an easy job to change them myself or would it be better to take it somewhere.
 
Well it effectively involves rebuilding the engine. Only you know your level of skill as to wether it could be described as easy or not.
 
Well it effectively involves rebuilding the engine. Only you know your level of skill as to wether it could be described as easy or not.

I took an old game boy apart once, never got it working again lol so looks like that is a no no.