W3STY's Progress Thread

What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

  • Porsche Guards Red

    Votes: 43 57.3%
  • Kawasaki Green

    Votes: 32 42.7%

  • Total voters
    75
Im in for a GB, id have either pro race 1.2 or 1.3, im after some 17x8 and low ET for when i fit the brembos.
 
If I get finished early from work tomorrow I'll give them a ring. I was in regular liaisons with a few guys there and was offered a few very good prices for the older pro race 2 wheel as it was old stock
 
Sounds like a plan, anything under £400 would be awesome.
 
I would be interested in the Pro race 2 if they can be got at a good price, as has been said you might be able to negotiate a good deal if there is a few of us after them.
 
By pro race 2, are you guys refering to 1.2's or is their a actual pro ace 2 alloy?
 
Unsure mate, id be happy with either the 1.2's or 1.3's.
 
Stop being a girl and chuck a spacer on. They're no different to running a lower offset if you get decent ones.
 
im so glad they dont fit. I've had hemorrhoids that were better looking than those wheels. ok, i havent actually but, you get the point.

frederick, i personally think you should consider buying a set of TD rims brand new, and running them alll round, not just for track. 1. you get your moneys worth 2. you can sell the current wheels and the dotz to fund it. 3. its not a great deal of hard work or expense to have the track tyres put on for the few trackdays you might do. and 4. they are road legal track tyres anyway.

:cheers:
 
3rd time lucky???!

84a6fa28.jpg
 
He doesn't have one on the Ibiza, Mark and I fitted one to a customers Ibiza though... needs to be close to the nozzle to prevent too much syphoning from the length of tube from it to the nozzle..

We fitted it where the battery used to be in that casse... ran an ignition live to it (under the dash is fine but of course fuse it) and earth from the clusters under the battery tray...

Make sure the screw in push fittings are tight but of course be sensible as the seals will crush and leak...

<tuffty/>
 
(under the dash is fine but of course fuse it) and earth from the clusters under the battery tray...

<tuffty/>

Don't ****** confuse me! My electrical skills are pony at best. What amp fuse should I wire in? And what clusters do you mean? The main wires under the tray that all go to the same place?
 
Been a while since I updated!

Finally got round to fitting the Devils Own solenoid today and it appears to be working fine. I do however have an issue when I fit the AEM filter between tank and pump! The fluid doesn't make through to the nozzle with the filter in place, as soon as I remove the filter it's fine!

I did also get the battery icon on the dash which I think is where my car hasn't done a journey in 2 weeks since my holiday and the battery must be low. No idea I this is what's effecting the pump flow with the filter in place.

Anyway I'll go for a proper drive tomorrow to charge the battery and see what's occurring. I can't take any more issues with this ****** WMI system :banghead:
 
If you get the battery warning light wilst the engine's running i think your alternator is on its way out, result not charging the battery.

I never ha the engine running. No started the car since Friday. I was stupidly testing the WMI pump over and over again on a slowly depleting battery. The car has only done quarter of a mile in 2 weeks which is why it's died on me.

I'm hoping that once its fully charged the WMI pump will work fine with the filter in place and I can finally book my car in for it's remap.
 
Excuses excuses lol

In all seriousness though sorry to hear it mate and don't really understand how the pump wasn't pulling the fluid through the filter but maybe a charged battery will be enough?

Can't wait till you get it mapped and see what the bad boy can do ;)
 
Ok car is charged, just had a half hour drive. Got home and took the nozzle out the FMIC hose and hit the test button on the controller, nothing! I took the nozzle off the plastic feed and out came meth, killed the ignition and it stopped, ignition back on and it flows so the solenoid is working fine.

I fitted the old nozzle that was broken and that was spraying but syphoned once the pump stopped. Killed ignition and stop. Very happy with the solenoid.

So back to the new nozzle. I took all the gubbins off the check valve to see if it even cracks under pump pressure and it did! Nozzle back together and tried again, fine, WTF!

So I think it's working but I'm not going to risk fitting the filter between tank and pump until I know for sure all is fine. Is it actually possible that I've had this many problems with AEM equipment!???
 
Good news. The WMI appears to work. I've drunk quarter o a tank of meth in 100 miles! I'll run the tank dry and he the inline filter back in there and see what's what.

I have also started enquiring about custom maps today. I can get the car done before ADI but they will need the car for a week which leaves me with a bit of a problem! Need to source a car for a week for work.
 
Good news. The WMI appears to work. I've drunk quarter o a tank of meth in 100 miles! I'll run the tank dry and he the inline filter back in there and see what's what.

I have also started enquiring about custom maps today. I can get the car done before ADI but they will need the car for a week which leaves me with a bit of a problem! Need to source a car for a week for work.

Speak to Prawn, I think he has about 8 cars..
 
Wouldnt it make more sense to attach the solenoid to the pump feed rather than the ignition?

That way the solenoid is only open when the system is spraying and shut at all other times?
 
Wouldnt it make more sense to attach the solenoid to the pump feed rather than the ignition?

That way the solenoid is only open when the system is spraying and shut at all other times?

The controller is progressive... not tested it but its voltage is increased as the boost climbs (depending how its set on the controller) not much use to trigger a solonoid expecting 12v supply..

<tuffty/>
 
Speak to Prawn, I think he has about 8 cars..

I wish, used to have the Mini, track car, daily A3, and company car, and that random golf I bought! Now I have a Mini off the road, a track A3 with no engine, and a company car, so nothing to lend out :( Otherwise I'd have happily helped out.
 
Wouldnt it make more sense to attach the solenoid to the pump feed rather than the ignition?

That way the solenoid is only open when the system is spraying and shut at all other times?

The pump is connected to the controller which is in turn connected to the ignition feed.

The WMI kit hasn't been that reliable if I'm honest so I don't want to temp fate by adding something else onto the wiring. Nice idea though.
 
I wish, used to have the Mini, track car, daily A3, and company car, and that random golf I bought! Now I have a Mini off the road, a track A3 with no engine, and a company car, so nothing to lend out :( Otherwise I'd have happily helped out.

That's very kind mate but I'd never dream of asking for a car to borrow. I have a few ideas so I migh be booked in for a map tomorrow. Car will be ready for ADI then.
 
Just seems that you've only solved half the issue.

If the nozzle breaks again, then sure you wont empty half a gallon of meth into the engine when its parked up overnight, but it will still be passing meth all the time when the engines running?
 
Just seems that you've only solved half the issue.

If the nozzle breaks again, then sure you wont empty half a gallon of meth into the engine when its parked up overnight, but it will still be passing meth all the time when the engines running?

That's a risk I'll have to take. At least when the engine is on it'll be burning the syphoned meth. If you look back at my vids you'll see that the syphoning is very minimum but it was enough to cause issue when the car was left.
 

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