Intermittent Turbo Audi A4 2.0 FSI

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psd99

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Hey all,

I've only had the car since July and over the weekend I covered around 300 miles. (first proper long journey)
I did two long 100 mile journeys. I noticed yesterday and today that the turbo will sometimes not kick in.
It was quite quick before in the first and second gear (3rd to 5th rev) , but it doesn't always feel like a turbo now.

I had my cambelt changed recently (6th August)
when I went to the car the VAG specialist had the car plugged into the computer and he said that there was a problem with my AC and intermittent turbo - but at the time I had no problems. He then said it is probably because the sensors had been reset when they changed the cambelt, reran the rest (I think and no problems- he did this within minutes)
This was 3 weeks ago.

So the first question is what the VAG specialist said is that correct - can the sensors give a false positive?

I had a read on this forum and see it is a common fault. I need one of those devices to read the fault codes.
Should I be concerned with this? What could make the turbo intermittent?

BTW 61K on the clock.
 
Is there anything in the engine to stop someone from ripping the crap out of the engine and turbo?

I found myself testing this 10 times today and maybe 4-5 times it had no power.

I'm thinking perhaps because I was testing too hard, the turbo might have been disabled.
 
The car will go into limp mode when its not happy. This will limit boost hence it feels like the turbo has stopped working. This can be caused by a whole host of things such as fuelling or boost leak.

Best thing to do is get it connected to vag com and check for any faults.
 
audi upgrades
Chris Norman said:
The car will go into limp mode when its not happy. This will limit boost hence it feels like the turbo has stopped working. This can be caused by a whole host of things such as fuelling or boost leak.

Best thing to do is get it connected to vag com and check for any faults.
Click to expand...

thanks

when it goes into limp mode - will I notice anything on the dash? i.e How do I know it is limp mode?
 
of course loss of power :(

maybe the engine got hot
I could live with the car like this, but ought to get it checked out I might have bought a lemon :(
 
it will cut power so you dont **** it up
hence limp home
 
psd99 said:
of course loss of power :(

maybe the engine got hot
I could live with the car like this, but ought to get it checked out I might have bought a lemon :(
Click to expand...

you could live with your car going in to limp loss of power ?
get a mini
 
Well not dangerous to drive around like this so in that respect i would be ok

But i fear that the loss of power will become greater, i see your point so i will get it checked out


Will see how it drives in the next week though
 
Sorry for hijacking the thread. Do petrol cars go into limp mode.....I thought this only applied to diesels?

Could someone confirm.

Cheers
A
 
I am Fairly sure that
both diesel and petrol cars go into limp mode
 
Performance is okay now still fairly powerful

Just felt laggish after the long journey oh well

took it to the garage and there
There was no fault or error from the VAG console
i saw him running the test
 
psd99 said:
Performance is okay now still fairly powerful

Just felt laggish after the long journey oh well

took it to the garage and there
There was no fault or error from the VAG console
i saw him running the test
Click to expand...

Could be the diverter valve. If that was going then wouldn't show up as fault code and would feel like no boost.
 
northernlight said:
Could be the diverter valve. If that was going then wouldn't show up as fault code and would feel like no boost.
Click to expand...

Agreed, if it feels more like 150-160bhp than 200, then it's probably the diverter valve. I had this when I bought my TFSI last year. No fault codes or engine light, but it felt no faster than my previous car (Alfa 156 JTS) when I first got it.

£50 for a new DV from ebay, and the difference was unbelievable.
 
Thanks guys so how do u diagnose that the valve is a problem?
dont really know how to fit that valve

Any guides? Not really engine competent
 
For the sake of £50 for the part, I just took a punt and risked it. It was immediately obvious after the new one was fitted that the old DV was knackered - the rubber membrane splits and leaks boost pressure.

I didn't fit it myself as I'm pretty useless with cars (computers are more my thing), so just got a local mechanic to fit it. From memory it was only an hour's labour or less.

P.S. AFAIK, the only way to diagnose it would be to remove the existing DV and inspect it for tears in the membrane, if you don't want to risk the £50 on a new part first. The new part should be a revision D, which has apparently been redesigned to be more durable.
 
I seen some videos of how to change the valve
looks doable here
 
Are u competent enough to fit it yourself?
Fancy doing mine too please. Lol
 
If its not your Dv try your N75 boost control valve as mine failed and gave similar symptoms.

Both valves can be bought from Audi Dv around £60 the N75 around £20
 
Thanks if there was a problem with. 75would the n75
produce an error code?
 
What you need to do is check the Rosstech VCDS user map on here (if you are in the South i can assist) and offer someone a few beer tokens and they will scan your car and reveal specific fault codes eg faulty N75 / run a boost test. That's the 1st place to start.
 
Thanks already did that please read above


Wl get the dv changed
im excited lOl
 
Thanks guys

The valve has arrived but not fitted yet

Seen a video on utube but the valve is in an awkward place to get to underneath the car

So How much should it cost to replace the valve?

Btw does the valve always work when i use the right foot or will it only kick in certain times?
reason I say it because initially I always feel a kick and power but after engine been running for a while
the power feel is different more gradual and missing the kick feel
 
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