Audi A3 1.8T 1998 AGU Build !!!

[Chester999]

Took the beast for a little drive and what a beast it was lol didnt even hit boost and you could really feel the difference you could feel there was alot more lag but you tell it was gonna proper rip when it was finished and mapped. I have had to remove the MAF and replace with the standard one for now as prawn informed me it would be under fueling by 36% and unplug the N75 vavle so im running at actuator pressure 6psi so i dont blow it up before i have it mapped lol cheers mate.

 

[Chester999]

When i was out for my little rip the brake pedal just went soild on me and would not work pulled over had a little look could not see any signs of any leaks or anything but everything was hot so let it cool down then managed to get home using handbrake and gears lol. When i got home one of my mates said it would be the brake servo pipe to inlet manifold could not see any signs of damage that night. Next day prawn clarified it would be the brake servo to inlet manifold pipe if not could be worst and be a hard line so went out and checked again and found the brake servo pipe to be melted right behind the manifold i did have some heatshielding there but just not enough and dont think it was good enough anyway. So replaced Servo pipe with some steel braided hose and bought some better heatshielding was about £40 from Cam Auto Devlopments little bit cheaper than merlin motorsport but think it is the same stuff if not just as good.

 

[Chester999]

Managed to find another little touch up its a Chrome Power steering Cap from J Caps Online for about £40 so ordered one up.

 

[Chester999]

Bought a few interior touch up parts aswell it was a chrome Audi gear knob for about £15 off ebay some JOM chrome door pins off ebay for about £10 and a black Audi tax disc holder for £16 off ebay just to tidy up the inside a little bit.

 

[Chester999]

Couple of stickers for the outside to it had to be done lol.

 

[jamieA3]

loving all the work under the bonet. wish i had that sort of cash to spend on my car lol

 

[Chester999]

loving all the work under the bonet. wish i had that sort of cash to spend on my car lol

Cheers mate i shouldnt spend as much as i do but i just cant help it im addicted hahaha.

 

[Chester999]

Wellycooler should be here this week so time to fit that next and get all pipework sorted will upload more pics as soon as more parts turns up.

 

[jamieA3]

what are you doing with the broken ko4 mate ? definatly start a dispute on ebay. I wouldnt have it. let us know after you have a map done as im sure this car will go like siht of a shovel

 

[Chester999]

yeah i have started a dispute mate its going through now just takes time ill be finshed by the time i get my money back lol will keep you updated mate and upload more pics as soon as i take them hopefully the car will go alright.

 

[Prawn]

Jesus man, you've spent a ****ing fortune on that lately! Nice work

Where are these ****** V3 manifolds coming from though? Sam said they're not selling them at all yet, and that's clearly a new revised one, different pipe run, more clearance at the studs, and little gussets around the collector.

Looks good.

 

[Chester999]

Yeah the pounds are really starting to add up now lol just cant help it. I ordered my manifold from relentless through ebay for £160 so thought it was a V2. When it turned up it looked a bit different to me but couldnt really tell the difference untill sam was messaging me saying how did the V3 fit so dont know if i got sent out a test one or something because i thought the V3 was going to be a bit more exspensive.

 

[Chester999]

Postie brought me couple of goodies yesterday so thought i would upload couple of pics. 1st one of the wellycooler bought from ebay for £79 with postage and second one a brand new VR6 Clutch and a second hand ABF Flywheel (which you never have to change so its alright being used) with all new flywheel bolts and new clutch pressure plate bolts for £50 off of a good lad on this forum called slowcoach3 what a legend cant say thanks enough mate.





Just waiting for the 2.5" intercooler pipework to turn up then will get started on that first then clutch and flywheel at the weekend.

 

[Chester999]

After i seen prawns build thread where he installed a switch to switch between actuator boost and full boost i had to have one sorry prawn copyied you a bit to much on this one but you had the perfect switch and place for the switch only difference is i had to have a blue light on my switch lol but cheers mate great little mod. So went ahead and installed it yesterday with some Metal TT Pedals bought from Awesome for about £40 and installed switches and dials for the Plasma dials and Bass Cube Controller for the Sub also Carbon Wrapped the center plate that sits around the headunit etc.

 

[Reesy]

Amazed at the amount of money you've spent!

Got to ask, why would you want actuator pressure on a k04 though?

I know Prawn has the switch because his car has done a ridiculous amount of miles, and the hybrid would probably kill the engine if it were left to boost as it should.

 

[Dan-Jnr]

Great update. Coming along nicely.

 

[Prawn]

I think the actuator switch is a brilliant idea Reesy, I use it so often you wouldn't believe it.

Mine's not on there to stop it from blowing up, it's on there to make the power more manageable on wet days, and to save fuel and stress when cruising to and from events.

On actuator, it's still quicker than a st2 ko3S car, and ultra smooth too. Just so easy to drive in any weather. Dad also does trackdays and the Ring on actuator pressure. He doesn't drive the car much and hasn't built up to trying full boost yet.

On a full st2+ style ko4 setup like Chester has gone for I reckon you'll still be seeing 220+ bhp on actuator, so perfect for a daily.

Sam Bryant is running a switch on his now too and uses it loads, I think he still sees 195-200g/s on actuator.

Very worth while indeed

 

[Reesy]

I think the actuator switch is a brilliant idea Reesy, I use it so often you wouldn't believe it.

Mine's not on there to stop it from blowing up, it's on there to make the power more manageable on wet days, and to save fuel and stress when cruising to and from events.

On actuator, it's still quicker than a st2 ko3S car, and ultra smooth too. Just so easy to drive in any weather. Dad also does trackdays and the Ring on actuator pressure. He doesn't drive the car much and hasn't built up to trying full boost yet.

On a full st2+ style ko4 setup like Chester has gone for I reckon you'll still be seeing 220+ bhp on actuator, so perfect for a daily.

Sam Bryant is running a switch on his now too and uses it loads, I think he still sees 195-200g/s on actuator.

Very worth while indeed

All i hear there is blah, blah, blah I have a fwd car that doesn't work in the rain

Interesting theory and I can see the point for the hybrid but in a stock k04 turbo'd car, it seems a bit pointless.

But that's just my opinion.

Alsom 220 is not enough for a daily. I know this.

 

[Prawn]

Also 220 is not enough for a daily. I know this.

Then when are you going to do something about it and ditch your gay little turbo

At least Chester has realised it's gay and sacked it off already. We'll be waiting for you at the petrol station Gay03S boy

 

[Reesy]

Then when are you going to do something about it and ditch your gay little turbo

At least Chester has realised it's gay and sacked it off already. We'll be waiting for you at the petrol station Gay03S boy

I shall be ditching it soon, just not soon enough.

That race wagon you were in yesterday couldn't keep up with my sportback, so back to you!

 

[Prawn]

That race wagon you were in yesterday couldn't keep up with my sportback, so back to you!

True, but I had a damn good try!

Poor like focus was struggling against the mighty A3 estate!

 

[aragorn]

Surely throttle position dictates boost pressure anyway?

If i dont want 12psi i just press the throttle less and i get maybe 8psi instead? Or 3psi, or 10inhg...

So why would having the N75 enabled, and the ability to produce 20psi cause you to use any more fuel or cause the engine any more stress when cruising on the motorway? If its wet and slippy, you just dont floor it. If your crusing on the motorway and wanting to minimise stress, just dont floor it.

What would you do if it was a N/A 6.3L V8? Get out and unplug some of the fuel injectors because your only driving to the shops and only need 4 cylinders? Or just press the throttle the required amount?

 

[Prawn]

Surely throttle position dictates boost pressure anyway?

If i dont want 12psi i just press the throttle less and i get maybe 8psi instead? Or 3psi, or 10inhg...

So why would having the N75 enabled, and the ability to produce 20psi cause you to use any more fuel or cause the engine any more stress when cruising on the motorway? If its wet and slippy, you just dont floor it. If your crusing on the motorway and wanting to minimise stress, just dont floor it.

What would you do if it was a N/A 6.3L V8? Get out and unplug some of the fuel injectors because your only driving to the shops and only need 4 cylinders? Or just press the throttle the required amount?

No offence intended here Kev, but the simple answer to your above post, is....


NO.

 

[Chester999]

Haha didnt realise this little switch was going to cause such a discussion i think its a great idea to being able to keep it at actuator pressure as i am a heavy footed lol and it doesnt matter how much i put my foot down it will not go over actuator pressure therefore saving fuel and putting less stress on the engine great little mod.

 

[Reesy]

I can kind of see the benefits:

If you want a slightly more economical run
If you want to let someone else use your car

But don't you have to run an mbc for these? They are x amount of pounds which could have been spent putting fuel in and driving the car to the way you tuned it, and paying for a bus for the person that wanted to use your car.

Unless I am wrong and you don't have to use an MBC, in which case they are a reasonably good idea.

 

[jamieA3]

i think arragorn has a valid point. lighter foot equals less power. changing gear at 3000 equals less power when peak is delivered at like 5900 or something. but obviously a mod is more easily justified when you have spent time and money on it.

 

[aragorn]

Track/Race use i can understand the point, you can set a hard limit the engine wont exceed and drive without having to continually check yourself from using full throttle, which afterall you spend most of the time doing on track anyway.

But i just dont see the point for road use. If your sat on the motorway doing 70, its not in boost anyway, and the valves doing nothing wether its connected or not. Therefore you cant say it'll save you petrol. If your hitting even actuator pressure on the motorway, your driving in a manner which is hardly conducive to saving fuel, so its not really a valid point.

If you lack self control, then i guess it makes sense, but thats surely more a function of your lack of self control, than it being somehow better than just having all the power available all the time.

 

[Prawn]

Unless I am wrong and you don't have to use an MBC, in which case they are a reasonably good idea.

No MBC needed at all man, it's literally a £1.99 switch from ebay and 20 mins work to fit!

i think arragorn has a valid point, but obviously a mod is more easily justified when you have spent time and money on it.

Not really any time or money in it mate, £1.99 for the switch and 20 mins to install, so I've got nothing to justify in that sense. If you drove my car you'd understand

Track/Race use i can understand the point, you can set a hard limit the engine wont exceed and drive without having to continually check yourself from using full throttle, which afterall you spend most of the time doing on track anyway.


If you lack self control, then i guess it makes sense, but thats surely more a function of your lack of self control, than it being somehow better than just having all the power available all the time.

It's about smoothness as well though Kev, with full boost turned on, I would defy anybody to be able to drive my car, and modulate the throttle perfectly to give 13-14psi right across the entire rev range from 2k up to 7k and a perfect linear acceleration. it simply can't be done, or if it could, you'd be spending so much effort on modulating the throttle you wouldn't be paying enough attention to the road!

As for lacking self control, that sounds a bit like the flip side to your SMF argument in Chesters other thread, where you lack the inclination to be in the correct gear at the correct time

 

[Dani_B19]

Nick you got a link to plumbing the switch in? Tbh i think its a good idea and comes in handy if letting are lass or the folks drive my car.

 

[Chester999]

Found a video of how my 1998 AGU Audi A3 1.8T was running before i done the K04 conversion so thought i would post it up.

The Spec Was : Running A K03 turbo, Oettinger 195BHP Chip, Cold Side Forge DV And Inlet Pipe, Cold Side Induction Kit, FMIC, Downpipe And Decat Straight Through To A 3" Back Box.

I Put My Tunes On At The End Of The Video Dont Think The Camera Could Take It LOL.

 

[Chester999]

And heres a video of the first start after the K04 conversion.

The Spec Is : 1998 Audi A3 1.8T AGU Running A K04 Turbo, XS Power Manifold, Relenless 3" Decat And Downpipe, Straight Through To 3" Back Box, 3" Badger 5 TIP, 3" Custom Made MAF, Cold Side Air Induction, Cold Side Forge DV And Forge Inlet Pipe, Forge Coolant Hose Kit, Rest Of Hoses Changed To Steel Braided And Blue Hoses, FMIC.

 

[aragorn]

As for lacking self control, that sounds a bit like the flip side to your SMF argument in Chesters other thread, where you lack the inclination to be in the correct gear at the correct time

I'm sure i did point out that it was her indoors that drives the car in the wrong gear...

In my car at least boost is related to throttle position. If i push the throttle 3/4 down it'll come up to 6psi and just sit there. A bit more and it'll come to 8psi and sit there, etc. Not only that but its even possible (without trying particularly hard) to hold the engine at less than actuator pressure.

Its not like your constantly looking between the boost guage and the road and constantly adjusting the pedal. If you want moderate accelleration you push your foot down until you get the accelleration you desire, and hold it there. What boost pressure the engines making doesnt matter a jot, what matters is that the power the cars making is appropriate for the available grip and the amount of accelleration that you desire. In exactly the same way as if you've got your gran in the passenger seat, and want to draw off smoothly you mildly press the pedal rather than smashing it into the bulkhead, if you want 3/4 of the engines maximum power, then you press the throttle the right amount to achieve that.

Its all a bit of a moot point anyway, if you feel like you need/want a switch, then go right ahead and fit one.

 

[Chester999]

Just another little touch up for the interior a Alloy Facia Plate for the dials.

 

[Reesy]

Did you find out what the funky buzzing noise was?

EDIT: Just found it in your other build thread.

 

[Chester999]

Did you find out what the funky buzzing noise was?

EDIT: Just found it in your other build thread.

Yeah mate found the buzzing it was the inlet manifold to servo pipe forgot to put the 1 way vavle back in when i replaced pipe.

Put the vavle back in today and buzzing all gone sorted.

 

[Chester999]

Just had the pipes for the big intercooler (wellycooler) turn up will be fitting at the weekend have gone for a slighty different setup to most people on here just beacuse i want the chrome pipes to show through the bumper so im gonna use 90 Degree Alloy Pipes at the front instead of silcone ones and have only got to do the hot side because the pipe off my old intercooler on the cold side is 2.5" im 99% sure will find out at the weekend.

 

[Chester999]

And have got to get this little hose joiner welded to the 45 degree alloy pipe so the n75 pipe can connect to it.

 

[Chester999]

Just had the Gates Cam Belt Kit arrive today in the kit is the cam belt, water pump, vibration damper and tensioner will be having it fitted soon. Didnt get round to fitting the wellycooler or pipes this weekend will make a start tomorrow and upload more progress pics.

 

[Chester999]

Have not write on this build thread for a while so thought it was time to do a little update. Have had a few problems fitting the VR6 clutch and SM flywheel i bought from a member on here called slowcoach3. The problem is that the clutch friction plate rubs on the pressure plate not allowing the friction plate to sit on the flywheel face also the clutch release fork fouls on the clutch pressure plate. My friend who was fitting the clutch for me tells me that one of the parts supplied is not the right part so i decided to go buy a brand new VR6 Carbon Kevlar clutch and a G60 Lighten and Balanced SM flywheel kit for the AGU engine hopefully this one will fit and work.

 

[Chester999]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]One piece G60 solid flywheel lightened and balanced[/FONT]

[/IMG]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Carbon Kevlar lined VR6 clutch driven plate (balanced & anti-judder)[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Heavy duty VR6 clutch pressure plate (balanced)[/FONT]