Three faults coming up.

R

readyrangers

Registered User
Joined
Apr 9, 2011
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NULL
Hi all, looking for some help with my 2004 a3tdi sportback. I had a problem a a year or so ago where my car would all off a sudden not take throttle,if you gave it throttle it would judder like mad and lose power. After being on here and reading i found it to be the manifold intake flap, i changed it and its been fine till now.
Now i have this similar problem which i can clear if i turn off the ignition and back on again but it comes back four or five times then it is ok again for that journey. I have checked the codes no intake fault this time, this time the codes are 17055 cylinder 1 glow plug p0671 glow plug circuit fault q10. 1766 pump jet valve cylinder 4 (n243) implausible signal p1269. 17674 pump jet valve cylinder 3 implausible signal p1266.
Has anybody had the same faults as this and got to the bottom off it? Oh one more thing the motor on the (mif) keeps buzzing when you turn off the ignition, i took it off and checked when you shut off the ignition the flap shuts then opens again is normal for it to keep buzzing?

Thank you
 
Hello again, sorry if i have asked about this wrong or there has been topics with this before i have looked through posts and can't find anything that helps me. I was confident that somebody would have had a similar problem.
After cleaning the egr yesterday i went for a run about eighty miles, within five minutes of driving it started the juddering, i turned off the ignition and restarted it and it never done it again. What it is doing now is you can feel it as if it is missing slightly if you have your foot just touching the throttle,if you put the foot down it seems to be fine. I am going to try and check the glow plugs and harness today to see what it shows, i am guessing that wont help the problem with the pump jet valve. Would it be possible i have a problem with the glow plugs and the injectors?
Hopefully i have not do anything wrong with the forum rules in my posts if i have i am sorry not to clued up on this. I thought this would be a good place to get help rather than throw hundreds off pounds away to a garage.
Thank you.
 
The glow plugs only work for starting and, once the engine is running, they do not affect performance.

It is possible that the injector wiring harness is faulty but I think this can only be checked by replacement.
 
Hi again, thanks for the replies. I am just waiting on the glow plugs arriving, i checked them last night with a meter three were showing around 1.7 and one was showing 69 so i think that might solve the glow plug circuit fault. i will come back later once it is done to say how i got on.
 
Hi again. I got my glow plugs and changed them on friday,car was fine yesterday then today went for a longer run and within five minutes it started the juddering again like running on two cylinders. Once i came home i checked the fault codes and just the two now the pump jet valve ones in cylinder 3 and cylinder 4.
Can anybody help with this would it behave like this if the injectors were dirty, and is there anything you can buy to clean them without removing them? or is it that they might be faulty?
I don,t have any issues with smoke which is confusing me i thought if my injectors were faulty i would be getting smoke.
Thank you.
 
Hi checked the wiring loom for the glow plug and it was fine,if it was that could it be ok for that but not the injectors?
 
As explained, the glow plugs and their wiring loom have nothing to do with the engine when it's running. They only work for starting.

The injector wiring loom which is totally different from the glow plug loom has been known to breakdown with age and will cause misfire.

The problem is, that only by replacing it will you be able to tell if the problem has been cured.
 
Thanks for getting back to me again. When i had the rocker cover off there was one wiring loom running through the middle with wires out one side for the glow plugs and i am sure the others were going to the injectors. Am i wrong with this?
 
You cannot check the operation of the injector wiring loom when under load. The loom may look ok but inside the actual conductor can break down and cause misfire.

As far as I know the glow plug loom and injector loom have two separate part numbers therefore must be separate items. They may both be wrapped so they look like the same loom.

If I get chance tomorrow I will check with ETKA.
 
Ok thanks fot that, i did notice all the wires run back to one single plug. It was a round plug about an inch to a inch and a half in diameter.
With all the faults there seems to be with the A3 i thought surely somebody would have had this problem.At least i have cured the glowplug fault saving me money by not going to the garage.
Thanks once again for taking the time to reply to me.
 
I was wrong !! (again ) lol.

The adapter cable loom (as they call it) includes both injector and glow plug wiring looms as you correctly suspect.

The part number is 03G 971 033 L and costs £82 approx. That price includes all connectors including the round connector you refer to.
 
Hi thank you very much i just ordered one off ebay before looking in here, i think i may have boobed the number is 03g 971 033 m can anybody tell me if this will fit as its brand new and was bought for a golf 2.0l tdi pd engine. What does the pd stand for?
Thank you.

I just looked in google and i think the one with m fits from 2005-2009. I spoke to the seller and i think i can cancel the sale just shows i should not have rushed into it without checking first.
 
Last edited:
If you have a BKD engine as I suspect you have then that loom is not the right one. I do not know the difference but it is described as being for engine codes BMN and BUY. It may fit but there must be some differences. However, it's the same price !!

PD stands for 'pumpe duese' or something like that and just describes a direct injection engine rather than a common rail as in the latest models.
 
I found them new the model with the m was £50 and my one was £25 dearer. I will try get one tomorrow and get it fitted, i will come back on and let you know if this cures my problem.
Thanks again for your help.
 
Hi Mike, i never managed to get the harness today it is coming tomorrow. I decided to strip it out ready to change, my question is do you need to remove the thin metal clip totally that is around the connector where the cables all join the connector? I took the plug off the harness the quarter turn one, does the harness then just push back into the head? as it seems solid.

Thanks
 
readyrangers said:
Hi Mike, i never managed to get the harness today it is coming tomorrow. I decided to strip it out ready to change, my question is do you need to remove the thin metal clip totally that is around the connector where the cables all join the connector? I took the plug off the harness the quarter turn one, does the harness then just push back into the head? as it seems solid.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry mate - I haven't actually done the repair so I can't tell you but I'm sure all will become obvious when the new part arrives.
 
Thanks i was just taking a pot shot so at least i had it ready.It has to be the clip it sits in a hole in the head but i cant get it out off the hole,if i can get that out i am sure the connection will just come out. Anybody else changed one and able to help me?

Thank you.

Got the clip out still the harness wont budge.
 
Last edited:
Hi again. Just back to report that is it changed now,went for a run all seems ok no missing that i can notice thankfully. I will come back in a few days just to report if all is still ok.

I have another question if anybody can help. My egr valve has a high pitched humm as soon as you turn on the ignition and stays humming as long as the ignition is turned on,it turns off after 30 seconds to 1 minute once you turn off the ignition. Is this normal? i only noticed it about a month ago.

Thank you.
 
readyrangers said:
I have another question if anybody can help. My egr valve has a high pitched humm as soon as you turn on the ignition and stays humming as long as the ignition is turned on,it turns off after 30 seconds to 1 minute once you turn off the ignition. Is this normal? i only noticed it about a month ago.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

So does mine - don't know if it's normal but it's been doing it for 18 months without any problems !
 
Ok Mike thanks for that. I had a m8's vag to test fault codes and all was good,i had checked the one that comes up with the egr before and it was passing but now it comes up fail.Is this something i should be looking into? i have cleaned it about a week ago and that was when it passed.
Thanks you.
 
Hi just another update. Car running good again no problems, The egr is now passing again not sure why it failed for a day.
I hope this post helps somebody if they get the same fault codes. See you all next time i get a fault again lol.
 
Hi i know this is an old thread but i had forgot about it, my car run ok for about three weeks then back to the same again.In the time since i was last here the harness to injectors and glow plugs has been replaced again, the main harness has also been changed and four injectors also the ecu went away for testing and was reported as knackered so replaced. Everytime the car was tested after a part was fitted it would run fine for two test runs and on the third bang back to misfiring,it is now booked into Audi on monday but i fear htey will come back saying it is the injectors.My mate has givin up on trying to sort it,it is showing pump valve 2 and 3 now,it does not matter which injectors you try in that cylinder it is always that two now.
Does anybody have any idea off any thing else that could be causing this fault?
Thanks
 
Hi again,just another update.I had Audi look at it,the time they spent checking things on the car they just confirmed eveything i knew.They said they were unsure why something was shutting down two injectors,if i put it back they would get to the bottom of it but could not give me a time span on how long it would take.
I then put it to a diagnostic specialist and after doing lots of checks he found i had oil in my diesel,and injector 3 was showing 12v and 1,2 and 4 were showing 40v while testing. I have just got my new tandem pump today to try and solve my issue with the oil in the diesel,i have to decide yet if i am going to fit this myself. It was also suggested i get a full system flush of the tank and fuel lines to clean the oil out. Then hopefully i can talk my friend into changing injector 3 for one i have that was tested as working.
Can anybody tell me roughly how long it would take to change the tandem pump and get it primed again?
I will report back once i have any updates.
 
Hi again,just another update.I decided to change the tandem pump myself today,it took me an hour and a half from start to finish and was easy enough to do.
Can anybody help me with the injector 3 running at 12v and the other three running at 40v? I am guessing that's what was showing up when the guy had it hooked up to his laptop testing it, is 40v normal when running and i have one faulty injector running at 12v?
I am struggling to get any replies am i doing something wrong?
Thanks
 
Would you be able to share some instructions on swapping the tandem pump? Did you clean and flush the fuel system?
 
Hi, i dont know the tecnical names for all the parts but will try to explain.If you look at the the air pipes from the air filter box you have one electical connection pointing up,i removed it also the rubber hose along from it.I then removed the air filter top cover about ten screws that undo but don't remove,you will see two clips further along the air pipe big clips you squash to slacken.I released the second one and pulled the pipes apart which then let me remove the top cover of the air filter box,removed the air filter and removed the allan key bolt at the back of the box.I then removed the cover of the top of the smaller box that the curved pipe goes to above the air filter box,you can then pull the air filter box up and feed the curved pipe out.That lets you get in to remove the tandem pump,you then have three pipes that were tricky to remove i think they were just stuck with age,you need to use pliers to release the clips and slide them well up the pipe.I got a flat screw driver and put it in at the bottom of the hose and wiggled it to slacken slighty pulling as i done it and managed to free them,you then have three allan keys holding the pump in place.Two off them are ok to remove the bottom one was is harder to get as there is a pipe from the radiator i think it was slightly in the way but you can get it.I then had to release the plug for the wiring harness attached to the side off the engine to let you get the pump out,i then cleaned all the muck and bits off the old gasket stuck to the side off the engine.When you go to fit the new pump look into the round hole on the side off the engine that has oil in it you will see two bit sticking out they have to line up with the slots in the new pump,you can turn the pump by hand,When you line it up right you will see it sits flush with the side off the engine,i started with the two easiest bolts first then the harder one went in no bother.
Once you have it all back together i just turned the ignition on till i heard the fuel pump run and stop and repeated about five times and then started the car,it sounded rough for a second or two then it was ok.
I have not flushed out the fuel as i have nowhere to do that,i am hoping my friend who has a garage will do it when he replaces injector 3 for me.
I hope i have mentioned everything i done.
I will say sorry for my grammer it was never one off my strong points.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

sturs4
Parts coming up
Replies
13
Views
1K
PH1L
PH1L
xnox202
Few mods coming up!
Replies
4
Views
808
xnox202
xnox202
DaztheGuv
RNS-e Faults shown up
Replies
24
Views
5K
vw754
vw754
tdi-man
any rolling road days coming up ?
Replies
1
Views
429
Alex_Wil
A
R
Full Scan with VCDS has thrown up a few faults!
Replies
8
Views
2K
rikia93
R
Top
Back