Top mounts replaced - win.....headlight levelling mechanism broke...less win....damn

[Squirrelofdoom]

Alright guys?

So, replaced my top mounts today. Managed to do it without taking off the lower struts, so figured I don't need to take the headlight self leveling mech off because I'm not removing the lower arms and dropping them....I was wrong. See below for a few pictures of the black plastic bit snapped off. Couple of questions.

1) Can I buy this part as a spare? Anyone know costs / part number?
2) Does the rod usually have the kind of bend shown below? If so I will re-use the rod and just replace the black plastic bit if I can. If not, I could straighten it and do the same? Or do I need to buy the whole assembly?

Next question is about the top mount replacement itself. Replaced them all fine and the black plastic caps which go on the top were sitting flush with the top of the towers. Now when I get home they have popped back up again (see below). Should whip off the caps and torque them up again? Anyone know the correct torque setting?

Any advice most appreciated!

Thanks guys,
Aran

 

[knoxie]

alright dude see if sideways steve can help

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...fix-your-headlight-self-levelling-system.html

 

[Squirrelofdoom]

Thanks knoxie. Saw that sticky but I don't think it's talking about the same clip. PM'ed him just to be sure.

Anyone ideas on the top mounts torque / whether they should sit flush etc?

Cheers,
Aran

 

[knoxie]

Thanks knoxie. Saw that sticky but I don't think it's talking about the same clip. PM'ed him just to be sure.

Anyone ideas on the top mounts torque / whether they should sit flush etc?

Cheers,
Aran

someone done a good how to a few weeks ago so the search bar

but i do t believe they sit flush

 

[Splab333]

I looked into this also, i found that the plastic arm can't be bought seperately, can you repair it with a splint and some epoxy? I had to get a second hand unit for mine as it was broken before I bought the car so didn't have the original parts to repair. It shouldn't cost too much from someone breaking an s3 if needed. Also, the bar is meant to be bent, hope this helps, James

 

[Squirrelofdoom]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the help. Could try and repair it, will see what I can do. Regarding the top mounts, I've looked at the how to's - but also found conflicting ideas on here as to whether they should sit flush or not :S I'll give them another tighten at lunch today

 

[vfr800]

Hi

Can you upload the pics to somewhere that's publicly available? (We can't see them because they're in your gmail and you haven't given us your password. See the guide in the stickies.)

The mounts should be nice and flush once they're changed. When they stick up when they're knackered - when they're really knackered they dent the bonnet.

Here're mine which needed replacing. You can see one is higher than the other - that was the more b*ggered one. http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/152396-my-poor-s3.html#post1521701

There should not be much space between the plastic cover and the top of the arch.

Get 4WA done afterwards.

Edit: I was gonna say - can you get the arm or something similar from a model shop that sells remote controlled vehicles - I'm sure you'd be able to make something out of a servo arm that would do the job.

Liam

 

[Squirrelofdoom]

argh, didn't realize that the pictures weren't showing up! I usually upload them to facebook but thought I would try gmail this time...it loaded on my screen so figured it was ok...obviously not the case :S

here are the pictures again:

 

[vfr800]

No worries.

Top mount looks ok to me. Did you replace both sides? LCR or standard?

For the sensor - is it possible to remove the base of the arm or is it not designed to come apart.

If it's not then your best bet is to epoxy something on to it to hold it together.

Liam

 

[Squirrelofdoom]

Hi mate. Replaced both side with just standard Audi bushes - they are both like the picture now, nowhere near as bad as yours looked lol

Not sure if I can remove the black plastic from both ends. If not i'll have to replace the lot of bond it back somehow. Do I need to recalibrate or anything?

 

[vfr800]

Heh!

If you muck with the suspension you *need* to get your 4WA done! Unless you love buying new tyres all the time

Yes if you put a new sensor on or mess with the suspension or level sender you also need to re calibrate your headlights. Easy to do with a registered VCDS Lite or better.


Liam

 

[Squirrelofdoom]

Cool. I've still got N/S driveshaft and front and rear susp bushes to do, so won't 4WA until I've done it all. Sure I can find someone on here to help me out with re-calibrating once I get it fixed

 

[Sandra]

​Keep up the good work Aran, you soon be all sorted out. x

 

[Squirrelofdoom]

haha, here's hoping!!

 

[jojo]

In the process of changing my strut tops aswell, since the wheels are off, I just took a pic. It's suppose to be bent as you can see, and thankfully, mine is intact! I just undid the bottom bit. Going to WD40 the whole lot when refitting, it's getting rusty!!

 

[vfr800]

Going to WD40 the whole lot when refitting, it's getting rusty!!

I'd be careful WD40 will destroy any thing rubber and dissolve any proper lubricants in any bearings etc. So keep it away from the rubber boots on the linkages.

Also it's a light oil and won't hang around very long. If you're going for corrosion protection you might want to look at something like ACF50 which is designed for the job.

Liam