Dv wrong way round!!

Wilts

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Iv already asked about this b4 but easier to start again, iv seen some people have turned their aftermarket dv round the wrong way why would they do this? I really dont want the whoosh noise so how do i get round this? People on here b4 said if i just blocked pipes it wud **** the turbo.
 
Just fit a recirculating DV the correct way around and be happy... fitting the wrong way around can cause a boost leak and make the spool a little slower

Not fitting a DV at all will break your turbo..

<tuffty/>
 
if you want more noise just fit a jetex cone and a forge DV the right way mine makes more than enough noise
 
Sorry forgot to say mine is a resirc dv and makes alot of noise but i dont want it, just waste gate chatter id perfer really.
 
Sorry forgot to say mine is a resirc dv and makes alot of noise but i dont want it, just waste gate chatter id perfer really.

As said... fit a recirc DV like the Forge 007p properly and the right way around and thats it... BOVs and atmos valves don't work on these engine/ecu combos and not fitting one at all will lead to turbo failure... the 'wastegate chatter' you seek is a misnomer... its compressor stall... compressor stall is bad for any turbo which is why they fit dump valves to relieve the pressure...

<tuffty/>
 
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Just confirm what the correct way around it please, should the top nipple face the sky??

Cheers
 
In the picture below.... bottom outlet goes into the TIP, side outlet goes to boost from the charge pipe and the little one on top is for the vacuum from the N249 or if bypassed direct from the inlet manifold..

FMCL007P.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
Cheers tuffty as always fella, the above dv is what ive got but its just to loud whooshing all the ****** time lol!!
 
Cheers tuffty as always fella, the above dv is what ive got but its just to loud whooshing all the ****** time lol!!

Diverter valves do whoosh, it can't be helped. Albeit they are quieter than atmospheric dump valves, but they still make a noise. They are just doing their job.

Ways to make the whoosh quieter;

-Replace the under bonnet sound proofing or make it more efficient (add more) but then you risk higher under bonnet temps.

-Standard airbox, smoothed, with a green cotton filter if you want performance.

-Put the map back to standard (if it's remapped) as obviously, more boost = more pressure release on throttle shut off, therefore more whoosh.

-Buy a clio 172/civic type R or a similar N/A lightweight, shopping trolley.
 
Whats having it the wrong way around do?
How does it even work upside down?
 
Whats having it the wrong way around do?
How does it even work upside down?

Its not upside down in true sense... what it means is the outlets are connected opposite to how they are normally so instead of boost going in the side it goes in the bottom... the issue with this is that boost is then pushing on a larger surface area underneath the piston forcing the valve open rather than being in e the piston chamber helping keep it shut... this leads to potential boost leaks as the piston may not fully close and laggier spool

<tuffty/>
 
I remember that putting the DV the other way round use to be a mod on S3's due to the flow of boost, it's suppose to 'open' quicker! lol Boost leaks was never mentioned, and it made a better noise apparently. But with today's knowledgeable people on the site, it's all wrong wrong wrong! Put it the right way round!! :)
 
Somthing that sounds like wastegate chatter not the whoosh crap.
 
There's no such thing as "wastegate chatter". Not sure where that term came from.
 
No, it cant be done. As tufty said, waste gate chatter is a myth that doesn't exist on these cars.

Fitting a slightly stiffer spring in the dv will lessen how often it dumps during normal driving, but not stop it totally.

What air filter do you have? An air box will give you almost no dv sound at all like you want
 
Wen ya take dv off and block the pipes it makes a much better noise than whoosh so what do you call that? And wastegate chatter ive heard a millon time over the years so must of come from somwhere?? Ive got a a piperX filter and carbon pipe.
 
Wen ya take dv off and block the pipes it makes a much better noise than whoosh so what do you call that? And wastegate chatter ive heard a millon time over the years so must of come from somwhere?? Ive got a a piperX filter and carbon pipe.
IF you were to block the pipes and remove a DV, all you are doing is storing boost when you lift off, which in turn fights the compressor wheel in the turbo causing it to stall (compressor stall) and you get a sort of fluttering/pigeon noise.
this is BAD for the turbo, it puts lots of un-natural forces on the comp wheel and the shaft, rather than it being able to spin free.
this is why all turbo cars are fitted with DV's as standard, to dump this boost and empty the boost system so the comp wheel is able to spin free with no pressure opposing it.

if you actually knew what a wastegate was, i suggest you research it, you'd realise that there is no such thing as 'wastegate chatter'.
some complete spaz of a chav has obviously come up with the term at some point and his chav following have continued to use it.

cars, particularly jap cars, that make that noise are fitted with atmospheric DV's (blow off valves), and are designed to make such noises, some of these blow off valves even offer different attatchments to change the noise to whatever you desire. Some HEAVILY tuned cars, running so much boost also make this noise when lifting off on part throttle, you may see some cars rev a little and wooshwooshwooshwooosh, they will 'chatter', this is due to the amount of boost they run and the hhhhuge dv they require not quite getting rid of all the boost in the system, again giving compressor stall.

there is no way on these cars, unless you spend a fortune in tuning and stand alone ecu's and run mafless with lots of boost that you will make a similar noise.
all you can achieve is a standard 'ptsshhhhh', enhanced by a large open cone, increased boost, an aftermarket RECIRCULATING dump valve, and perhaps some sound deadening material removed from under the bonnet.

hope i've cleared it up for you
 
Wen ya take dv off and block the pipes it makes a much better noise than whoosh so what do you call that? And wastegate chatter ive heard a millon time over the years so must of come from somwhere?? Ive got a a piperX filter and carbon pipe.
You call it an eventual broken turbo, the "chatter" (flutter) is a nice noise (to some) but it's a bad noise as mentioned above.

Some mushrooms look lovely, but they will kill ya!
 
Wen ya take dv off and block the pipes it makes a much better noise than whoosh so what do you call that? And wastegate chatter ive heard a millon time over the years so must of come from somwhere?? Ive got a a piperX filter and carbon pipe.

erm...

DV is there for a good reason.. to prevent pressure surge getting back to turbo...
flutter chirpy noise you seek is like on cars which dont have functioning DV's... and on your turbo is not advised.

want chirpy noise, disconnect it, but dont come moaning back here when your turbos gone wrong.. cool noise or not its supposed to recirc boost back into intake, and if this "woosh" is too noisy for you, revert your intake to std airbox to silence it

simples

your choice

enjoy
 
Thanks for the info superkarl when i joined i did say its my first audi so people need to understand that, i can now tell others that tell me about this wastegate chatter noise is aload of porkys lol.
 
People are not having a go, it's just that you started a thread with a question and you got an answer (the answer you diddnt want, but the correct anwer none the less). Then further down you diddnt seem to be getting it lol.

I have never had a turbo car but by reading and taking advice of the guys n gals on the forum I'm now getting there and can bore most of my family senseless talking about turbo's lol.

You have been lucky in that, the lads who have replied on this thread are pretty dam knowlagable on these cars, I have gone as far as crowning tuffty as a geek on another thread of mine which I hope he is prowd of :)

So just to recap:

1. Westgate chatter - no such thing (unless you go out in wakefield on a fri/sat night).

2. No DV - Will kill your turbo

3. DV Wrong way round - will torture your turbo worse than the talaban did all those people and eventually kill it.

4. Stay away from chav's especially owning an Audi, you dont want your car catching a disese like rust by sitting next to a rusted chavvy corsa!.

:)
 
Slightly off topic but, i'm also getting this mentioned "fluttering" sound from the 007p (or something in that area)but when the turbo's spooling,especially in high gears at low revs..seems worse after fitting badger5 tip and jetex but it did it on standard airbox aswell..any ideas anyone?
 
surge, and spike of boost is the cause.. cap your likely spike with mbc or adjust map are resolutions to this. (check DV spring is holding and stiff enough also)

high flow TIPs flow more air, sooner......... so if spikey map, the rush of boost initially (presuming its doing this-likely) then until the engines ready to injest the airflow it can flutter... usually gone at 4krpm where the engine has enough revs on it to injest the airflows
 
Could this be damaging the turbo then Bill?..your right about it stopping above 4/4.5krpm, i serviced the DV when i fitted the tip and all seemed ok (yellow spring) although i am going to refit the standard one just to rule it out...the map is a customcode stage 1 (jbs) and always been a bit all or nothing when coming on boost..i am going decat and stage 2 in a few week (again at jbs as their nearest to me) is this surge/spike something they could adjust in the map?

Thanks,phil
 
yep.. they can map it to suit on stage 2. tell them about it and that you dont want on/off delivery and they can make the stage 2 to suit
 
Its not upside down in true sense... what it means is the outlets are connected opposite to how they are normally so instead of boost going in the side it goes in the bottom... the issue with this is that boost is then pushing on a larger surface area underneath the piston forcing the valve open rather than being in e the piston chamber helping keep it shut... this leads to potential boost leaks as the piston may not fully close and laggier spool

<tuffty/>


I know this is an extremely old thread but I've searched everywhere. My car (Audi A3 8l 2001 AUM) has always made a flutter on the dv sound, I have been driving it for 5,000km like this as I just haven't seen it as a real issue. As an experiment, I put my mates 008 Forge valve on and it still makes a flutter noise, wondering how this is even possible?

Anyway, as a random idea I decided to put my old one back on in reverse and now I have a much quicker throttle response, get higher revs quicker and just overall more powa. Don't see a downside in this as I know the valve is kaput and until I get something different I think I'll just run it like this.

So why am I still getting a flutter with a Forge Dv and why has my power and acceleration increased dramatically by putting the stock dv in backwards.

Cheers,
Shea.
 
So why am I still getting a flutter with a Forge Dv and why has my power and acceleration increased dramatically by putting the stock dv in backwards.
I would imagine you had a leak previously and the Forge valve spring is stiffer...

If the DV is leaking in any way then your performance will drop under boost... if you fix the leak then your performance will improve...

If you still get flutter then it suggests the valve is not opening quickly enough for what ever reason... flutter is the result of the boost pressure not being able to drop quickly enough when the throttle is shut and cause compressor stall (the flutter noise)...

<tuffty/>
 
I would imagine you had a leak previously and the Forge valve spring is stiffer

Yeah true, I only get about 6 psi...I didn't want to take my mates dv apart/change his tension though.

So pressure/smoke test my boost lines and check for a leak in all that jungle of pipes? I realised a little while ago what compressor stall/surge was, and so I'd like to fix it.

So a new Dv might be a solution I just need to make the spring the right tension. Anything else it could be?
 
Buy a new oem valve
Still on the fence about this one, I see it from both sides but here I'd be paying $140 for a 710N. If I save a bit more I can get a more durable one that I wouldn't have to worry about. I know 710N is rated for high boost but I've also heard of them just dying over time...

Simply want something reliable so I can move onto the next thing I guess.
 
Still on the fence about this one, I see it from both sides but here I'd be paying $140 for a 710N. If I save a bit more I can get a more durable one that I wouldn't have to worry about. I know 710N is rated for high boost but I've also heard of them just dying over time...

Simply want something reliable so I can move onto the next thing I guess.

They’re reliable, last longer, and require less maintenance than the overpriced tat from forge


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They’re reliable, last longer, and require less maintenance than the overpriced tat from forge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been told by quite a few and seen a bunch of other forum threads that state the 710N will die and over the years you will have to replace...which in the end adds up to be more expensive...

But my question is regardless of what I decide to do could there be anything else other than a leak and broken dv causing compressor stall.
 
Compressor stall is a symptom of not being able to dump boost in the charge air system... this is the job of the DV which is operated by vacuum from the inlet manifold...

If you are 100% sure that the DV you have fitted is operational then it can only be lack of vacuum to operate the DV or that the spring is too stiff (in the Forge DV)

basically... if the DV is not opening then you will get stall and flutter noises...

Have you done an N249 bypass?

<tuffty/>