S3 doesn't go how it should!

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Golfer1991

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Hello Guys!

I have a AMK S3, my problem is that I think my car doesn't go how it should really go!
I have a friend with a 225 MK1 TT, fully STOCK! And we tried some days ago to compare the cars and... He goes EXACTLY the same as me!
I have those parts fitted in my car:

42DD 3" Downpipe and 200cells cat
Milltek resonated cat back
Forge Air intake and all hoses in silicone
TFSI Coils pack
Forge Turbo L tube non resonated
ITG Maxogen air filter
N249 bypass
RS4 NGK plugs
Revo Stage 2 map

As you can read, the differences between the two cars are not little... I know the TT has a totally different aerodynamics compared to the S3, but this sounds me strange!

Hope someone can help me! And sorry for my not perfect english, but I'm a swiss Guy! :laugh:
 
Something not right , my standard s3 marginally beats my friends standard tt 225 ! With the amount of mods you have you should be putting distance between you and him......
 
Are you running octane 99 fuel?


Sounds daft, but with these mods would make a bit of difference, shell optimax best.

Also shouldn't stage 2 need a front mount intercooler??.??
 
I'm running 98 octane fuel!
Fmic is recomended on revo stage 2, not necessary!
Anyway i'm going to mount a AH fab fmic in the near future! But I don't think that my car goes much less just for the ICs!

Is it possible that my turbo is cracked or something like that?
I will order an APR R1 diverter valve next week, and try to put a boost gauge!
 
I'd go with forge 007dv , but there is definatly something not right , even an s3 just remapped would outrun a tt no probs.

If you have done n249 bypass just t in off the dump valve with boost gauge to test it. Ring revo and find out what boost psi it should be running.

Also smoke test for leaks, vacuum or boost leaks possible.
 
Vac leaks or messed maf? Get it health checked at b5 or somewhere where they know whet they doing!
 
What's the difference between the forge 007 and the apr R1?
It's not boring to trying to put the right spring, spacer and so on? I would like to have a dv with no maintenance and easy to manage!

Can cleaning the maf sensor help?
 
logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs


VCDS is your friend..
post em up
 
badger5:1619369 said:
logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs logs


VCDS is your friend..
post em up
Click to expand...

Is there a guide on how to do them?
 
Taken from bills post in another thread:

all too common now on these "old" cars is split pipes..
tell tales for those with vagcom or access to it....

is your fuel consumption poor, has it dropped over time?
if you look at block 032 in vagcom are the numbers high.... 25% for example
Start looking for leaks, preferably find someone local with a smoke tester and check it out...
If your car has SAI, does the air pump and pipes look rusty..... chances are the SAI valve itself is leaking, allowing combustion moisture into the pipes, into the pump, which seizes it, and remains as an airleak pre-cat...
If you can do a 3rd gear pull on a safe piece of road, wot, log maf (002 or 003) and see if you get ~170g/s from your 210/225..... Significantly less (like 119g/s) then maf is tired and needs replacing..

almost every car now I smoke test before anything else.. Cars book in for "just" a remap.. but sadly, unless the cars fully functional, it seldom is that straight forward these days. 90% of the time, the owners are oblivious to the cars issues. daft little rubber pipes, rotting and split being the most common cause.
 
Gops said:
Taken from bills post in another thread:

all too common now on these "old" cars is split pipes..
tell tales for those with vagcom or access to it....

is your fuel consumption poor, has it dropped over time?
if you look at block 032 in vagcom are the numbers high.... 25% for example
Start looking for leaks, preferably find someone local with a smoke tester and check it out...
If your car has SAI, does the air pump and pipes look rusty..... chances are the SAI valve itself is leaking, allowing combustion moisture into the pipes, into the pump, which seizes it, and remains as an airleak pre-cat...
If you can do a 3rd gear pull on a safe piece of road, wot, log maf (002 or 003) and see if you get ~170g/s from your 210/225..... Significantly less (like 119g/s) then maf is tired and needs replacing..

almost every car now I smoke test before anything else.. Cars book in for "just" a remap.. but sadly, unless the cars fully functional, it seldom is that straight forward these days. 90% of the time, the owners are oblivious to the cars issues. daft little rubber pipes, rotting and split being the most common cause.
Click to expand...

I bought the car in dicember of last year, the fuel consumption is the same as when I bought it!
I think there can't be any leaks on boost pipes and so on, I've changed about 2 months ago ALL the hoses and pipes with every existing silicone hoses they sell for the 8L S3!
I will look at block 032 and log on 002 to see if there's something strange!

I have an AMK engine, so I dont have the SAI!
 
Golfer1991 said:
I'm running 98 octane fuel!
Fmic is recomended on revo stage 2, not necessary!
Anyway i'm going to mount a AH fab fmic in the near future! But I don't think that my car goes much less just for the ICs!

Is it possible that my turbo is cracked or something like that?
I will order an APR R1 diverter valve next week, and try to put a boost gauge!
Click to expand...

Mate, with a stage 2 you need a FMIC.. A stage 2 map is basically a stage 1 map, it's the modifications on the car that the map works with that makes the difference.
 
Is the tt definately standard or are you assuming this? Loggin both cars will determin whats going on here. Get on it!! Daz
 
Lol at the above thread, his mate probably running big hybrid turbo conversion lol, in which case he doing well
 
Benjiman46 said:
Mate, with a stage 2 you need a FMIC.. A stage 2 map is basically a stage 1 map, it's the modifications on the car that the map works with that makes the difference.
Click to expand...

Of course I'm going to mount a FMIC as soon as possible!
But it sounds me strange that I go like a stock TT just for not having a FMIC! :D

I'm sure my friend has his TT stock! And hope that he knows what he has done to his car! lol

I will tomorrow do some logs to my car, which channel would be the more important to log?
002 or 003 for MAF and? which one more?

Really nobody had experience with an APR diverter valve? What's different between the forge one?
 
Did he buy it new though. I bet thousands of mapped cars sell as standard. Get those logs either way be interesting to see whats going on.
 
its mapped with boost request of 2550, but your turbo from the logs looks slow to spool and does'nt get to requested.
only short logs in 3rd... so not much resolution to see.

std it aint..
 
What can I do then? Do you need some more logs?
Do I have probably to change the turbo? Or can be the DV that is gone and need to change it? ( have the stock DV actually, will soon get a forge 008 or an APR R1 DV, just need to know which one is better).

Thanks from now anyway!!!
 
Golfer1991 said:
What can I do then? Do you need some more logs?
Do I have probably to change the turbo? Or can be the DV that is gone and need to change it? ( have the stock DV actually, will soon get a forge 008 or an APR R1 DV, just need to know which one is better).

Thanks from now anyway!!!
Click to expand...

things I would get done..

longer logs if safe to do so.. 4th gear more resolution to see..

leak check (smoke test) to check for vacuum or boost leaks
n75 off run to see if its 5psi on actuator pressure or lower (weak spring in actuator perhaps..)

I am guessing your not from the UK?
 
s3dave said:
Try to do longer runs is what he is saying so we can see a bigger picture.. :)
Click to expand...

Will do that then!

badger5 said:
things I would get done..

longer logs if safe to do so.. 4th gear more resolution to see..

leak check (smoke test) to check for vacuum or boost leaks
n75 off run to see if its 5psi on actuator pressure or lower (weak spring in actuator perhaps..)

I am guessing your not from the UK?
Click to expand...

I will do this evening a 3rd, 4th and 5th wot, think they should be enough!
For the smoke test, have to see first if I find someone that do this!
The N75 off run means that I have to disconnect the N75 and try to do a run, right? (which meas. blocks? Still the same as before?)

Yeah, you're right, I'm not from the UK, i'm swiss! Also wrote that on the first post :)
 
n75 electrically off = actuator pressure, which should be 5psi
dont they lock you up and throw away the key is Switzerland for speeding?

good luck
 
badger5 said:
n75 electrically off = actuator pressure, which should be 5psi
dont they lock you up and throw away the key is Switzerland for speeding?

good luck
Click to expand...

Haha, yes! You're right! it's difficult to speed up in switzerland, they're EVERYWHERE, you really can't know where the police is going to make controls, and all you have to do is to pray in these situations lol.
But there are some places where you're quiet sure they wouldn't put a radar and during the week in the evening there are just few cars, so it's a waste of time for them!

Anyway, didn't have the time to do the logs this evening, will try to do them tomorrow!
 
a little more timing pull than I would like to see, but not OMG or anything
fueling looks a little erratic on the logs but not lean
turbo n75 duty cycle is flat out.. and actuator pressure looks to be ~5psi is normal..

perhaps a little cranking on the wg rod to add a smidge more preload will allow the turbo to achieve the requested boost, which is falls slightly short of currently
 
I haven't read all of the posts so excuse me if somebody has already suggested this, but did you do the mods before the remap?
 
audi upgrades
badger5 said:
a little more timing pull than I would like to see, but not OMG or anything
fueling looks a little erratic on the logs but not lean
turbo n75 duty cycle is flat out.. and actuator pressure looks to be ~5psi is normal..

perhaps a little cranking on the wg rod to add a smidge more preload will allow the turbo to achieve the requested boost, which is falls slightly short of currently
Click to expand...

Ordered today the Forge 008 DV and, there are 2 hoses that I didn't change, the one that goes from the N75 to the WG and the FPR one, could one of those be leak?

a318t said:
I haven't read all of the posts so excuse me if somebody has already suggested this, but did you do the mods before the remap?
Click to expand...

I did the DP and the 200 cat the same day I mapped the car, all other stuffs were installed after the remap
 
I see :) I'm pretty new to the 'modifying' 1.8T scene, but from what I've read the golden rule is mods before remap. Obviously upgrading certain parts will benefit without remap, but in most cases this seems to be true?

Excuse me for my lack of detail however haha

Hopefully you can get the power back you feel your missing soon chap ;)
 
a318t said:
I see :) I'm pretty new to the 'modifying' 1.8T scene, but from what I've read the golden rule is mods before remap. Obviously upgrading certain parts will benefit without remap, but in most cases this seems to be true?

Excuse me for my lack of detail however haha

Hopefully you can get the power back you feel your missing soon chap ;)
Click to expand...

Revo remaps should be quite the same, so I really don't know if this can change something!
Anyway, I've heard that with a Stage 1 Revo map on S3, you get about 260-265hp, I made the hp calculation with VCDS logs, and found about 252hp!
I don't know if those data are true or not, but it's strange anyway!

How many hp do people usually get with a Stage 2 Revo remap?

I've ordered now 1m of silicone hose to change the FPR hose and the N75 to WG hose, will try to first change them, togheter with the Forge 008 DV and control ALL hoses if they're tight, hope that something will change!

I've also another problem, when I put down my foot in 4th, 5th and 6th gear, I see that the RPMs from about 3600 to 4000 "jumps", does anyone know what can be? clutch maybe?
 
If this is what we would call an over rev when changing gear then I'm in the process ofsolving this....
Clutch pedal sensor changed ,
2 specialists visited, and checked
And scrapyard pedal sensor fitted and reset by removing battery,
I've had no joy still but will not rest till I've fixed it.
Just to add Audi dealer said the s3 and tt " just do it". Like it's ok!
 
Hello guys!

I'm trying to resolve all my leakings atm! Found a leak under the inlet manifold the past week, the Y pump under the inlet manifold have a crack and will change it tomorrow togheter with the other tubes present under there!
I've also changed the hose that goes from the FPR and the one that goes from the N75 to the WG!

I have also a leak somewhere in the exhaust, will check it when possibile!
made a scan yesterday and found this error:

17863 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235): Implausible Signal
P1455 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Could be the exhaust leak? Or do I really need to change the sensor?

I would like also to change the MAF and the N75, do you think it's worth to change them?

I saw now that the V3 relentless manifold is available, BUT there's a problem: here in switzerland it's quite impossible to have certainly mods on the car, and the police is everywhere to control on these...
And as the relentless isn't a stealth mod, I was looking at the JBS exhaust manifold, which will probably not being seen by the police, but will of course improve the car!
Is there much difference between the two?

Thank you!
 
You need the EGT sensor... the probe is fitted into the turbo hotside and has been known to come loose giving you and exahust leak... You need to get round the back of the turbo and tighten it if thats the case...

The turbo/manifold gasket is also a common area for leaks as the bolts go loose and this leads to a leak... tighten or replace the bolts/new gasket as required

If the EGT sensor is not working as expected or disconnected altogether then you will use fuel like its gone out of fashion... default protection mode is something like 0.7 afr with no lambda correction or adaption... I would check the wiring (earths under the battery tray etc too) and make sure the probe is in the turbo tightly... if the fault code comes back then its most likely the sensor at fault so it will need replacing... they are not cheap though... around £160 here in the UK

<tuffty/>
 
Will watch after is the EGT is tighten! How hard is to reach there? :D
 
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