Crank Shells advice needed

[Dan s3 audi]

Been getting a knocking sound from my car so today i decided to take the sump off again and have a look. Took the baffel plate off so that i could see my crank and connecting rods. I have play in every connecting rod from side to side??? is this normal????? there seems to be no up and down play. How can i check the shels to see if they are okay is there anything i can use to check the gap?? and one last question, how are you suppose to take the chain off the oil pump.
Thanks

 

[<tuffty/>]

Sideways movement is normal in rods... there will be no noticeable 'up/down' play unless ruined and you would notice that from the noise..

To get the oil chain off the pump you have to undo the oil pump sprocket bolt... to refit you fit the chain to the sprocket and fit to the pump before doing up the bolt to the specified torque...

<tuffty/>

 

[Dan s3 audi]

Thanks for the reply i thought you had to take the sprocket off, do you know the torque that it has to be done up too? and the same with the bolts holding the oil pump in?.

I have been getting a bad knock from the car, hense the reason for taking the sump off. How would you tell if the shells need replacing?
thanks

 

[<tuffty/>]

Thanks for the reply i thought you had to take the sprocket off, do you know the torque that it has to be done up too? and the same with the bolts holding the oil pump in?.

I have been getting a bad knock from the car, hense the reason for taking the sump off. How would you tell if the shells need replacing?
thanks

I don't know the torque for the sprocket bolt off hand mate... I normally use a battery impact gun to gun it off and back on... just the right amount of torque and no need to hold the crank to stop it all turning...

Oil pump bolts are something small like 11nm so tight enough with a 1/4" drive sorta tightness..

You will need to remove the rod caps and inspect the shells... there are different signs to look for tbh... deep scoring, shiny areas etc... difficult to say really..

<tuffty/>

 

[S3SYD]

Hello mate you wana wish you ain't ****ed your shells as I did twice.
If you have im pretty sure you would of found bits in your sump when you removed it
Bits that look bronze like cooper

 

[Dan s3 audi]

I have a problem. i took the middle holder off that holds the crank up to fined the shell is slightly scored. all the other ones holding the crank in place seem all okay. This is the one with the thrust shells on the side. Question is, i dont want to take my crank out as it will mean takeing gear box orr etc, will it be okay to keep this in?

Now this is the con rod shell the second one along from oil pump, all the others are okay. they are all going to be replaced and new forged con rods put in. the question is on the crank there is some very slight scoreing, can this be left or cleaned up with some very fine wet and dry?

 

[<tuffty/>]

You can't clean the shells with an abrasive or anything else for that matter... new shells required...

Personally if you are doing the rods etc I would take the whole engine out and replace all the shells while you are at it... you need to have the head off anyway to do the rods.. the crank would be an **** to remove while the block is in the car... not even sure if its possible as the crank pulley needs to be removed (**** of a job) and then the front and rear crank seals that are bolted to the block... removing the engine is not as bad as it sounds as it will all come out the front..

<tuffty/>

 

[Dan s3 audi]

well i will replace all the shells with the conrods but was hopeing i would get away with leaving the ones in that hold the crank to the case. I just dont have the space to take the engine out at the moment, or the engine lift etc. grrrrr its so frustrating, only had this car for a few months, spent £1300 on parts for it already lol

 

[S3SYD]

As tuffty is saying mate best to take the engine out
Whole lot easier
took mines out. In about 4 hours on a pit from the front
But bear in mind I did take mines out twice so was easier second time round
Ain't going to be cheap either as the list of parts will
Be non stop I.e while you got it our mite aswell change this and that
Mite be a idea to go for race spec main bearings and shells like I did
don't cost much more then standard ones
I went for pec ones as I got pec rods
Good luck