Audi A4 Power Loss, jerking, cutting out...PLEASE HELP!!!

SteveSmith

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Hi I'm new to this forum, as far as posting a new thread anyway. I've been looking through many trying to find some answers / remedies to my problems.

I know there have been a lot of posts already about this fault / problem, but recently my 2005 Audi A4 2.0 TDi started to have a loss of power, mainly when in 2nd/3rd gear around 1500-2000 rpm. It also jerked sometimes, but eventually sorted itself out, usually after going past 2000 rpm, and was followed by a puff of black smoke / dirt / dust out of the exhaust. This was initially very intermittent, and usually when running a bit warmer (After about 20 minutes of driving) but gradually got worse, and when running cold (Starting up didn't sound very nice!)

After looking at some forums, it sounded like the MAF sensor / filter, so took it to the local dealer, although due to how intermittent it is, i couldn't show them the problem. Funnily enough, the MAF sensor / filter is what they replaced, at a cost of approx. £280 (Plus diagnosis charge and labor).

Drove away...still happening. Wasn't very happy, called them back and had a chat / argument with the service manager saying that I'd payed for the fault to be diagnosed, but it wasn't, and he said to bring it in for another look.

This time, it was the EGR cooler at a cost of £260 (Part only with 10% discount - They didn't charge me for diagnosis check or labor this time). Drove away....still happening, and this time the 'Emissions Control System' Light had come on. Once again, i called, argued again and they said i had to bring it in ASAP due to the light. This time it was the EGR Valve (what a friend of mine at work said it was/could be to begin with).

So another argument, with me saying that i wasn't convinced they would ever repair it due to them failing to do so two times already, plus at a rather large sum of money to me too, and they said they it could of been any of the parts already replaced that went down, and i argued again why i was paying for all three parts when they should have diagnosed the faulty one straight away. Anyway, EGR Valve replaced and i only paid for the part (£240) with the manager guaranteeing me it would work and said that if it didn't work this time, he'll pay for it himself.

Drove the car away for the 3rd time, and all seemed great. It drove really well (as it used to) and i was finally happy-ish. Then two days later, pulling away from a roundabout, getting up to 3rd gear, sudden power loss again, lots of jerking to the point the car virtually stopped and nothing would happen. I had to pull over, hazard lights, turn it off and re-start the car and then it was fine again. Another two days later (Approx. 40 miles later), its happened again. No lights have come on or anything, just no power, jerking, stopping, some smoke and the only way to get going again is to restart. I know they said they do it for free, but i'm loathed to go there, only i may not be able to contain my anger and drive the car through their showroom window. But it would be nice to go there with some top tips, possible solutions, and or least some comments from others who have experienced similar problems.

Please please please can someone shed some light on what they think the problem could be, and why Audi are so useless to finding out the problem themselves. Any help would be very very much appreciated, thanks.
 
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Hi Mate,

i'm in a very similar situation. I have a A4 2.0TDI 170 and only had it for two Weeks. was going to post query but will wait to see if any one shed some light on this. Took the car into Audi today and have quoted £1000 to repalce one of the diesel injectors which COULD be casuing the problem, but reading some of the threads it could be a number of things.......so gutted.
 
The maf's hardly ever go on the 2.0tdi's so I've no idea why they did that unless they did some logging using the computer while the car was driven, the oil cooler was a previous recall for a few cars so they might have though it was that and the egr valve can stick open and cause some shuddering someone here a while ago had a similar problem. I have heard that there is a problem with some injectors on the 2.0tdi's, so if they are going to do it for free I'd let them, as new injectors are expensive but they can be refurbished for a lot less. But if they try to charge you ask for your money back for the things that didn't solve the problem and go to a specialist for the injector problem.

Realiste1 Did you get a warranty with the car? It should cover the cost of new injectors. and as I said before they can be refurbished.
 
Brought the car privately. Might look into getting warranty cover from a third party? any recomendations?

car when into Audi specialist who mentioned it was the No two injector that was shwing as being faulty and said sometimes it the wiring harnace that could also cause the problem. so opted for the cheaper option of getting the wiring harnce replace, car seemed fine. over the weekend was on the motorway the problem re appeared! so i pulled into the next service turned off the car for about 10 mins and it was fine??!!!

Steve whats the progress with yours?
 
I have an Audi A6 with the same problem! i have had the problem before about 6 months ago! i drove through the shuddering only to blow my turbo by doing so! i had to replace the turbo and the EGR valve, i did this with Audi! Very expensive but i had warrenty so all was fine! but now the problem seems to have started again. i had all the problems that you said various people checking the car over and saying all was fine, but none of it helped took about 5 trips to the gargage. it was only when the turbo went that they went over the problems, this time first of all im trying to clean the injectors using the diesel cleaning liquid that is available only because i dont want it to be a major problem yet again! but i think its not time to go see audi, if i get anymore information from them i will keep you posted, if you could also do the same to me it would be very apreciated.

Thanks
 
I have mine in for service and MOT on the 5th of next month, they said they should be able to find out what the problem is, so hopefully i will be able to let you know some ideas of what it might be! also black smoke has now started! :( bad times
 
Hi guys,

My car has been doing exactually the same, i have had an air mass sensor, new glo plugs a new turbo but still the problem persists, when driving if you try and put your foot down there is now power the engine is slowly revving and the revs slowly going up whilst all this is hapening a tonne of black smoke is coming out and then all of a sudden the car just flys... until the next gear change and same problem.

I have taken it to my cuzions garage who has been working on it and evcerytime they give it back the same problem, even he is getting annyoyed as the problem is intermittent.

its going in again tomorrow to see what the problem is has any of you guys had any luck with what may be the problem??

thanks
Naym
 
Hi Guys,
I have the exact same problem and reading this thread there is one thing in common (or almost one): 2.0TDI 2005 engine. Could it be that Audi had a problem with a lot of engines?

My problem is exactly as described in your threads and here is what I done so far:
- changed EGR valve, problem still there
- changed MAF sensor, problem still there
- changed Injector 4, problem still there.

Was told by Audi (after spending a ton of money...) that in their opinion, the cylinder head needs replacing because the injectors have "worn out" the socket in which they sit!!!! Cylinder head - GBP3,000.00.

I read that one of you has changed the electrical harness but still no change.
I'm just wondering what in the world can be wrong because my car (same as yours) does not do it all the time. I am yet to link the problem to a particular weather, temperature, etc...
When the problem is not there, the car simply flies away!

Looking forward to hearing any news from you. If I get to the bottom of the problem, I will let you all know,

Cheers,
 
My mum had injector and fuel pump issues on a 2005 A3 2.0 tdi. Symptoms were very poor starting, Audi swapped the battery, glow plugs and said it may be the starter, which was odd because it cranked fine.

The AA always got it going with a squirt of easy start. Anyway after probably 12 months if stopped dead in the middle of the road. It needed all 4 injectors and a fuel pump - in tank I think. Audi reckoned fuel contamination. It's been perfect since.

Chris
 
Have you run the tank dry at anypoint recently?
 
i have the same problem with my audi a4 2l tdi 2005 the mechanic already chack everything seems fine now im waiting on Tuesday he gonna check if the problem is the injectors in case is injectors reconditioned them will be a good option ?? someone help please
 
Could this be an indicator of the chain driven oil pump that relates to all these 2.0L tdi engines (BLB). I am starting to see the same issue.

Search "2.0 tdi chain driven oil pump" if you are unaware, sounds nasty.

Tony
 
same problem here the dpf light on glow plug light flashing put your foot down no power and dies back off it will poodle along help please
 
We have an audi a4 2.0 TDI SE, 2005 too and have had the same problem, intermittant loss of power for no apparent reason.

A garage in London changed the air mass meter/ air filter / fuel system flush (and mentioned that if that did not work could be the turbo pressure valve). (The guy there seemed to know about the problem - Niall at dovercourt, wandsworth) But it did work to get me home after conking out at Fleet services! And after that was much less troublesome. But kept being a problem sometimes, always better after audi flushed through their fuel cleaner stuff though I think. Then after one of its services it stopped doing this and ran great for over 2 years. Now it's started up again, and we have just run the fuel low till the light came on for the first time. So I am wondering whether it could be just dirty fuel and am going to have that cleaner stuff put in again and see what happens, fingers crossed! Just thought this may help others as people seem to keep getting hugh bills and it may be just something simple like this. Will post again once found out if cleaning the fuel helps.
 
I have a 51 plate Audi A4 estate 1.9 TDI.
Recently I was driving down the road when all of a sudden my dash board went blank and I had no power. I cursed for a 100 yards or so with no nothing happening when I turned the ignition. I took the key out and back in still crushing and it came to life!!? I was mystified and found this forum for answers.

Today I drove to heathrow from the midlands and back with my folks in the car and this thought at the back of my mind. With just a few miles to go it happend again, this time as I accelerated! To say I shat myself would be a understatement. I was lucky I was on a B road and one that happened to have a garage, 40 yards from the power out.

Enough of the storey, the mechanic at the garage checked my battery. To the right of the battery there is a small black box that houses a metal strip. The mechanic said that there is a metal strip and it was this that had corroded and had caused the outage. It is there to prevent a system over load or something.

Anyway he fixed it temporarily and I have just got it back from my garage.

The replacement part was £5, labour 30 mins. The chance I don't have to folk out for diagnostics, air filters, new oil coolers and all the other stuff Audi dealerships suggest.....priceless

I hope this helps and is the answer that helps you.
 
I have a 51 plate Audi A4 estate 1.9 TDI.
Recently I was driving down the road when all of a sudden my dash board went blank and I had no power. I cursed for a 100 yards or so with no nothing happening when I turned the ignition. I took the key out and back in still crushing and it came to life!!? I was mystified and found this forum for answers.

Today I drove to heathrow from the midlands and back with my folks in the car and this thought at the back of my mind. With just a few miles to go it happend again, this time as I accelerated! To say I shat myself would be a understatement. I was lucky I was on a B road and one that happened to have a garage, 40 yards from the power out.

Enough of the storey, the mechanic at the garage checked my battery. To the right of the battery there is a small black box that houses a metal strip. The mechanic said that there is a metal strip and it was this that had corroded and had caused the outage. It is there to prevent a system over load or something.

Anyway he fixed it temporarily and I have just got it back from my garage.

The replacement part was £5, labour 30 mins. The chance I don't have to folk out for diagnostics, air filters, new oil coolers and all the other stuff Audi dealerships suggest.....priceless

I hope this helps and is the answer that helps you.

Welcome to ASN. Its nice to have you aboard and making a contribution to the site and helping out another member. Thank you. I hope you enjoy the forum. :)
 
We have a 2005 2.0 tdi se Audi A6 and we have same problem! After paying for a diagnostic from Audi weve been advised to change the EGR valve at a cost of £380 although having read forums, especially this one were not convinced that we should keep the car!
 
As Wrath said have you tried a new fuel filter. Friend has a Focus that was playing up when hitting 3k rpm and generally not pulling well. Fitted new fuel filter, problem solved. Filter was overdue by approx 12k and had green algae growth on it. Worth a try if you don't know service history.
 
We have a 2005 2.0 tdi se Audi A6 and we have same problem! After paying for a diagnostic from Audi weve been advised to change the EGR valve at a cost of £380 although having read forums, especially this one were not convinced that we should keep the car!

Don't get a new one, just take it off and clean it.
 
Just had my injectors changed at Audi Nottingham Free of charge. Best advice is to contact your local dealer and ask service if there are any recalls outstanding on your model of A4. Checking the injectors etc is usually free. I think Audi have a legal obligation to rectify any outstanding recalls, this includes faulty injectors on some models including the A4 2.0TDI 170bhp.

Cheers
Rich
 
So is the general consensus that this is an injector problem? My friend's 2005 2.0 Tdi (BLB) started this yesterday, I drove the car and it suffered from a serious lack of power at when in 3rd/4th gear at low revs, started stuttering when accelerating, and started smoking. I found the way to temporarily get over it was to rev it to 3000 rpm where it would free up and then dump the clutch, and floor it. The car then went back to normal for a while. Though it might be dodgy fuel and there is just under 1/4 of a tank left so told him to fill it up with fresh stuff.

Today he started the car fine and drove 15 miles or so and all was fine, after parking up for a while got back in the car to go to fill up with diesel and the problem came back, but way worse than before. Out of gear it struggles to rev, and there is visible grey smoke coming from the exhaust, car only made it 400 - 500 yards. It's been fully serviced about 5000 miles ago, including oil, air and diesel filters.

leonie: did the flushing with injector help any bit?
 
I know I say this too often but yours does sound like EGR particularly because of the smoke issue. It's an hour job to check and clean and even if it isn't that you probably will notice a difference,
 
Thanks for the quick response, I got to do a quick scan on the car and it threw up a few codes, which were:

4 Faults Found:
17057 - Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Circuit (Q12)
P0673 - 000 - Electrical Fault


16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 000 - Implausible Signal

16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached

16785 - EGR System
P0401 - 000 - Insufficient Flow

So the EGR valve will be my first port of call tomorrow and hopefully it will sort the problem. I'll keep you posted.
 
Do the MAF as well if you can. Sadly it uses some strange 5-star torx but others have managed to remove them with pliers and mole-grips. Once out don't touch the metal, just spray some carb cleaner in it.

As an aside, my stepdad found his Leon took a while to start on a morning so he changed all the glowplugs and it starts and runs far better.
 
Ok, so got around to the EGR valve, it was fairly bad alright and looked like up to 5mm of build up in places but generally about 2-3mm. Gave it a good cleaning and put it back in, and still the same problem.

Moved on to the MAF then, was out of carb cleaner at this stage so I couldn't give it a clean as you suggested (motor factors not open due to the bank holiday), so I disconnected it and the really bad jerking went away. So I'm searching for a MAF locally to check out if that is the problem.
 
Update: Got a MAF from a friend who has a Leon Cupra (same part no) and tried it in the car. Still the same, once the MAF is connected bad jerking etc, but once it's disconnected it will drive away fine but just is a bit down on power. Got a brand new replacement insert for the MAF and put it in and still the same problem. I put it back the way it originally was and now it wont start with the MAF connected or disconnected.
 
Have an 07 Audi A3 170 TDI.
Bought at 50000 miles with DPF issues so remap and DPF removed thinking the stuttering/hold back at 3000rpm in 4-6 gears was all due to the regeneration issues. Problem made worse/more noticeable following remap.

Audi changed loom and injectors following previous advice on threads.

Replaced MAF....no change

No change....

At last problem solved - the fuel filter wall well past change date and with biofuels needs changing every 20K as opposed to service schedule Audi suggest in manual.

Cheap fix compared to all the other options suggested so far!
 
Simple rule, always check the simple things (and often cheapest) first before assuming the worst. As said earlier by Wrath and myself I think perhaps the originator of this post should also try a new fuel filter, you just never know.
 
My mate had the same thing happening all be it on a late date Astra cdti it was going into limp mode and dropping all its power first thing I replaced was the filter and topped the filter housing up with diesel system flush with added lubricants and that solved it with any modern diesel they rely on a smooth flow of diesel if they struggle to pull the diesel in the system will detect that an pull all the power to protect the pump. On any modern diesel that starts to drop power or play up the filter should be first port of call. I make a point of changing the filter on my TDi Golf every 10'000 miles as that's a lot cheaper then replacing a pump

Sent from my BlackBerry 8520 using Tapatalk
 
Update: Problem now solved, as per Wrath's initial deduction, it was the EGR valve. Despite cleaning it, and it looking like it was operating ok, when running on the car it was causing the problem. New one now installed and it's running fine again.
 
Update: Problem now solved, as per Wrath's initial deduction, it was the EGR valve. Despite cleaning it, and it looking like it was operating ok, when running on the car it was causing the problem. New one now installed and it's running fine again.
Dude I have the same problem on my 2007 A4 2.0TDI 170BHP, slight judder, hesitation, around 1800rpm…
Took it into my local Audi dealer and they tell me its an EGR valve failure and they have quoted £750 to fix!
Did you install the new one yourself or get a garage to do it?
And how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
Many thanks
 
Have an 07 Audi A3 170 TDI.
Bought at 50000 miles with DPF issues so remap and DPF removed thinking the stuttering/hold back at 3000rpm in 4-6 gears was all due to the regeneration issues. Problem made worse/more noticeable following remap.

Audi changed loom and injectors following previous advice on threads.

Replaced MAF....no change

No change....

At last problem solved - the fuel filter wall well past change date and with biofuels needs changing every 20K as opposed to service schedule Audi suggest in manual.

Cheap fix compared to all the other options suggested so far!


Hi Mate, im going spare getting the same issues so im going to give it a full service. What did you mean by Fuel Filter Wall Well?? I will be changing the fuel filter but what's that. if somone can help me out would be appreciated. cleaned my EGR and anti shudder out last night car feels much nicer to drive but still gets hesitant on power in 3rd 4th and upwards when putting my foot down over 3000k... Cheers guys - I also blanked the EGR off.
 
Hi, I had got the same problem - 2006 Audi A4 2.0 Tdi b7 103Kw - So I had cleaned the Egr Valve and by my own mistake forgot to put back the throttle body acuator cable. I tested the car and had no black smoke or shudder. When I re-installed the cable the car began to smoke again and shudder. Just wondering if this means that the Throttle body is not working eventhough I got no error codes when it was plugged in or is this a sign of something worse.
 
Hi my 2006 A4 2.0tdi BRE also had the same problem recently having a loss of power, mainly when taking off and will start jerking around 1500-2000 rpm. few days ago it decided shut the engine while driving from the parking and never start again till to date... PLEASE HELP. it seems like there is no power to fuel pump while cranking, its just comes once when switching on the key.
 
My a3 170 pd is shuddering like mad doesn't no weather to go r not then decides it wants to. It's had a new maf sensor, new turbo, new n75 egr deleted and dpf removal and remap 2nd hand tandem pump. all this coz of no pwer problems. But now this shudder? I've read it's the tandem pump is putting oil in the fuel but also been told it's dual mass. Anybody ant ideas. Yes dual mass is noisy but has been for a while
 
Hi, I had got the same problem - 2006 Audi A4 2.0 Tdi b7 103Kw - So I had cleaned the Egr Valve and by my own mistake forgot to put back the throttle body acuator cable. I tested the car and had no black smoke or shudder. When I re-installed the cable the car began to smoke again and shudder. Just wondering if this means that the Throttle body is not working eventhough I got no error codes when it was plugged in or is this a sign of something worse.

So after a few months I had finally found the fault - It ended up being the Boost Pipe (Turbo to Intercooler) that had a tear on it.
 
yeah my late 2006 audi-a4 convertible 2.0 tdi had the same issue power-loss-jerking-cutting-out but when cold it ran fine
my first guess was fuel stavation so it must be the pump,
but my 2006 audi-a4 convertible 2.0 tdi is no stock version this cars engine was was not in good shape when i purchased it even thou it has 20 service stamps in the book,
all that FSH talk is ******** the cams were ****** @ 191 k on the clock, the only reason i got it was because the body and interior are very clean for the age but the engine made loads of deep resonating sounds at idle and it ran rough.
any way i dropped the sump and noticed the balance shaft hex hole has been welded and re cut as a hex, this worked but i was not happy with that mod so took the whole pump out to find the blanance shaft had worn in to the oil pump body
so i purchased a used 2011 a3 pump that also had worn hex key but the balance shaft its self had not been molested by some nugget
so i sent the a3 pump to Sampson engineering where they use a ultra hard incert thats machined to a hex and pressed in via 15 tonne press and fit ultra hard longer hex key
i also purchased the oil pump timing tool pin for the oil pump all i had to do to make the a3 pump fit on the a4 was swap the pickup over.
i pinned up the engine, set the oil pump idler gear clearance with a slip of paper ( important or it will run like **** and remove the paper)
i then fit the sump and sub frame back etc
at the time i had a vw passat 1.9 tdi 130 on a 52 plate awx engine that i was going sell but it had very good parts on it only 89k on the clock so i checked some of the parts and noticed the cylinder head injectors, tandem pump, cam cover, (original was blocked) cam shaft & lifters and turbo, front brake calipers, disks pads, lower arms battery were all the same as on the audi a4 so i thought i would swap all the passat bits round and put the old audi bits on the passat then flog it.
so i swapped all the above components round and cleaned out all the original a4 manifolds egr etc and changed all oils and filters and all belts and tentioners water pump, and did the head gasket at a cost of £250, free labour (i do my own work 8 year ex mechanic)
after the parts swap round i purchased x4 18" audi BBS speed line split rim wheels had them straightened professionally i split and sprayed them black and gun metal gray, the wheels were 200 off ebay 90 for all 4 straightened professionally @ top alloy wheel refurb place in leeds i forgot the name, 100 pound on paint primer, base, and clear coat,
then i fit 4 brand new b rated tiers 235 50 R18 V RATED £240 and balanced them my self £0 (i have a wheel balancer in my garage)
then steam cleaned and did a 3 stage polish on the car,
After all that work the car looked and ran perfect and i spent less than 500 quid then sold the passat for 400 all the bits off the passat and looked like new, the original a4 cams were badly worn and all the bits from the passat were in perfect condition and i even got new injector seals and did the head gasket with new bolts manifold gaskets and full timing kit new pads all round as well the lot
any way back to this topic 7000 miles later car experienced power-loss then started jerking then even cut out on the motor way this went on for about a 3 days and was intermittent
in that time i plugged it in no fault found i changed fuel filter no luck then changed the Maf sensor with a cheep one off ebay and it got worse and the engine started to hunt at idle (never by Chinese engine parts ) so i cleaned the original maf sensor and re fit but still it was the same,
i removed the box where the ECU is (google it) and swapped the fuel pump relay off my 05 caddy van still had same problem,
i knew my engine was mint and clean so i followed my gut instinct my first guess was fuel starvation so it must be the pump in the tank as the tamdems are bullet proof and mine was off the passat and still had under 100k on it, i was right i took it out
it was full of black gunk and at the bottom the pump cup the pump its self has a little gauze filter on it and it was full of crap,
i took it out stripped it down cleaned it out with a tooth brush and hot water and TFR then tested the pump in hot and cold water in a sink for 30 mins and it worked fine off a 12v battery charger
then i blew it out with compressed air built it back up checked the tank and re fit in the car then filled with fuel
started it up and its fine also took it for a run and its got all its power back and runs like a dream again
so the lesson is don't listen to people on here who dont have a clue about cars saying change the egr maf injectors etc,
always check the intank pump because they are away neglected
ho yeah the cost of my fix was £0
 
Hi all. My audi A4 2ltdi kept on going to limp mode. My problem was solved by a plumber. Car still boosting all the time. Opened up dust covers of the EGR. Each has 4 screws. Plastic links smooth on one side causing the valve to hook against housing of EGR. About 4 teeth smooth.Moved it forward, used some qbond to add a piece of plastic at the back of the half moon black runner. This caused the white wheel to perfectly run with black half wheel. Opening the valve when necessary. My problem solved. Cost me nothing. Have a look. Regards