Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

I have now booked some holiday as the forecast has perked up so will be commencing with the build weds so will hopefully have it completed by the end of the week all being well.....hip hip horay

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Well I noticed something on the liquid this morning as I thought I would check all the gauge values etc as a precaution and wahlah I have found a problem which is likely to be causing my cold start problems

Spot the issue? (the engine is running in the pic)

Well besides eml and abs

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The eml is now coming on for the evap and the abs occasionally rears its ugly head which comes up as right rear wheel speed sensor but have got a new sensor for it waiting fir when get the chance to fit

The coolant temp on the liquid gauge was displaying 90+ when I checked only about 30 secs after starting where as the dash is displaying <60?

Is there more than one coolant temp?
 
Good to hear about the build getting back on track!

Could it be the temp sensor or thermostat?
Haveyou tried the code 49 reading on your AC unit?
 
Sound like a temp sensor fault to me mate!

Ive noticed that the liquid coolant temp differed from the dash (which we all know is an Adjusted value) yet its also 1 or 2 degrees different from the climate49 reading! Chuck a new green sensor in there and see what happens
 
The coolant temp sensor has 2 circuits- 1 for the dash and 1 for the ecu. I'd imagine the liquid gauge uses the ecu half of the sensor so it's pretty likely one half of the sensors knackered.
 
Good to hear about the build getting back on track!

Could it be the temp sensor or thermostat?
Haveyou tried the code 49 reading on your AC unit?

Cheers mate hopefully will be all up and running well with a few more ponies soon ;)

Will have to try the climate control and see what it comes up with
 
I got all excited for a minute then, thinking it was Christmas! Then I checked my calendar and it's only May :(

Lol cheers mate does feel like it at times when I don't see all the lights ;)

Yeah think a new sensor is best bet may have to order one tommorrow

Only downside is that it'll mean am having to change 3 sensors in a matter of a week :(
 
The coolant temp sensor has 2 circuits- 1 for the dash and 1 for the ecu. I'd imagine the liquid gauge uses the ecu half of the sensor so it's pretty likely one half of the sensors knackered.

Cheers mate that sounds like that'll be right on the money as iirc there's four cores in that sensor?

Will replace it as soon as poss :)
 
Have just changed my coolant temp sensor and all is now well and started first crank :)

But checked the before and after temps on the liquid and was 86 on old sensor where as 2 mins later it dropped to 14 on the new one
Just to put it into perspective when I was trying to start it last night after it had been sitting for a 12 hour shift the liquid gauge was reading 125 so was an absolute ***** to start from cold

Just one more sensor to change when I get the chance and that's the wheel speed sensor as done the clutch position switch yesterday

I also modified my charge pipe yesterday for the new turbo as my current one has a feed for the n75 on the housing

I quickly turned this beauty as i wanted it welded on although finish isnt best as was rushed

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Then smacked a quick bit of jizzum round it

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I will be making my own alloy charge pipe in the near future as this one will be sold with the turbo kit

And please excuse the other welding on the pipe as this was how I recieved it ;)
 
Well but of a late start as had a lay in but got it up on stands removed the rear seats and drained fluids

Just about to start stripping down hopefully don't find anything to sinister, but on the same note would be nice to see why it's been down on power
 
All is going well so far as it's the easy bits :)

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Does anyone know if there's a vag with the coolant housing that doesn't have an outlet at the bottom as mines got to be replaced and won't need the lower outlet as will be running an oil cooler??

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If not I will probably just tap a thread into the outlet and put a bolt in there with sealant unless any ones got any other ideas?
 
Normally use a bit of suitably sized hose and a bung mate... think most of the housings are the same...

<tuffty/>
 
Cheers Paul :)

I've just realised that I hadn't bought an oil filter, plugs or exhaust sealant.....doh

What would you guys recommend as would like to order today to hopefully recieve tommorrow?
I did try ordering the sealant bill uses (red forest or something) a little while ago but ecp said they don't do it anymore?

Plugs I pressume some form of 7's?

Cheers
 
Cheers Paul ;)

Decisions have got to be made....

Well downpipe took nearly 5 hours to get off and out of the car

And after all the effort the new k26 housing is different to the one there is about 11mm difference from the manifold flange to the downpipe flange so the centre line of the turbo is different :(
 
Cheers Paul ;)

Decisions have got to be made....

Well downpipe took nearly 5 hours to get off and out of the car

And after all the effort the new k26 housing is different to the one there is about 11mm difference from the manifold flange to the downpipe flange so the centre line of the turbo is different :(

Yeah, been there mate... the T3 housing is bigger... tbh that was expected... I had to remake mine...

<tuffty/>
 
Well what a day!

Think this turbo on this mani is do able but is it worth it as is already a bit of a compromise and will compromise things further

After a lot of fettling manged to get the turbo on but it required removing the prop doughnut and refiting after turbo to allow it to slide on the studs and is extremely close :(

Heres a few pics of them side by side

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You may be able to see but the distance from the manifold mating flange to the downpipe flange is greater

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Old MTM K26

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New Garrett K26 Housing (sorry managed to cut part of this pic out)

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Comp cover to Prop

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Turbine housing to bulkhead (theres more room than it looks)

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But the problem with this part is the fact the downpipe outlet is further back and makes getting nuts on the studs pretty much impossible where as the current one it a pita but manageable

So i could get a few mm milled off of the housing at an angle to bring it up slightly and give a little more clearance at the back

Or i am going to contact ATP and see if we can sort something out as its supposed to be the same dimensions and fit existing K24/K26 manifolds and downpipe fitments and was assured it will fit, i know the housings are bigger but when i measured up the turbo centerline was used as a reference which shouldn't have changed

I'm going to see what they have to say but am looking at changing to top mount as haywards have agreesd to refund me all the costs as is still rubbing and have put a dent in part of it today as rather worryingly it was wearing its way through the metal power steering pipe that comes off of the rack

Pics of the new dent :) Forgot pic of the pipe and will grab one tommorrow but has a very clear flat on it

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So if anyone knows of any top mount mani's worth using or second hand ones please suggest... have already had a chat with bill about TSR, CTS's (kinect?) and fullrace iirc
 
Feel for you mate... been there and still wearing the t-shirts :(

I remember when I first did my conversion and put the head on the engine with the turbo fitted only to find the ****** housing hit the bevel box... was heart broken but managed to sort it... same when I fitted the new housing recently... all sorts of stuff hitting bits like the block, the oil drain etc... nightmare ++ but bit of creative engineering and bingo..

Clocking the comp cover may give you the clearance you need from teh prop... DP is a different thing though and will need modding/remaking in places...

The Kinetic seems a good top mount and not a bad price considering... tubular stuff gets expensive of course...

Kinetic mani...
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You might need a new wastegate too... the gate position on the Kinetic is not the best for RHD cars so some creative fabrication would be needed... the CTS kits have the gates coming out on top... not ideal and presents other issues..

Don't forget to add extra heat shielding too... std stuff is inadequate on its own... you should look to put some insulating heat fabrics behind the factory shield

<tuffty/>
 
Theres a guy here building an S3 with a precision 6262 (from memory) which is mahoosive. He's using the kinetic. Is top mount much better space wise?

It's going to be awesome once its all together. I'll just be happy with non knocking bushes :(
 
Theres a guy here building an S3 with a precision 6262 (from memory) which is mahoosive. He's using the kinetic. Is top mount much better space wise?

It's going to be awesome once its all together. I'll just be happy with non knocking bushes :(

Fitting a large from turbo on most top mounts can be tight.... here is the TT we did recently..
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Using a Kinetic mani and a GT3076 but same hotside as Stacey's... this has the larger comp housing and we had to push the aircon pipework back further and heat wrap everything behind the factory heatshield to be sure it was protected...

Top mounts aren't any better/worse space wise generally... just present different fitting issues but tend to make the turbo easier access

<tuffty/>
 
Cheers guys :)

And cheers paul completely forgot about clocking as that should certinally give me some more clearance to the prop ;)
This modding malarki does seem to have its major ups and downs but at least when its running its rewarding

Am still in two minds of what to do?? The main worry for me is the clearance to the bulkhead as can't really tell in the pics but the heat shielding behind the hotside is nearly touching the bulkhead where it over the times of fitting and removing the turbo on this mani have pushed it back

I was maybe considering getting a few mm (4 or so?) machined off of each face (manifold and turbo flanges) but really don't want to turn it into 034 cracksvile lol
Thing is the mani port has a csa only marginally larger than a T25 and was going to port it but fear i will weaken it to much if i machine the face?

Am really wondering wether to cut my losses now and go for what i would really want as with most over bits i have ended up compromissing and then revisting it later craving more or trying to improve it

Do i bite the bullet?? :think: :shrug:
 
Thats the thing isn't it... I was (still am to a degree) in the same boat... I had the mounting face on my mani machined to give me some room too as my hot side is the same as yours and had the same height issues...

What I would be doing if I had the cash to do it again is the TSR/Tial hotside route of the LCR we had in recently... that was fecking awesome... top mount but sat low enough that it was just out the way of everything...

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Just a shame about the boost creep issue which we believe to be due to the wastegate takeoff pipe being too small... was a tad smaller than the 38mm gate...

The way to look at is the K26 setup is saleable as it is now... you will need a manifold, downpipe and external gate as a minimum to get back up and running plus oil drain, oil feed and water lines... the old saying do it right do it once sounds appropriate but tbh having been in the same predicament as you its never as easy as that...

<tuffty/>
 
Thats generally my thoughts and probably will get some more ponies ;)

The other plus side is i will then have a near new manifold to sell with my turbo etc rather than the old one repaired so spec to sell would end up

Turbo just over 5000 miles since refurb (cost >£900 to refurb)
MTM injectors >5000 miles £440
MTM Manifold with under 5000 miles (should have been >1000 but got for 500)
4 bar reg <5000 miles
All oil and coolant lines from original kit
Downpipe with twin cat fitment
Wastegate which was rebushed >5000 miles (£80 for refurb)
Custom 3" Tip
Charge pipe for this setup
And probably a full set of gaskets

Have got reciepts for turbo refurb and injectors?

What you guys reckon could fetch for this kit? This will be helping fund any other ventures ;)
 
Sorry last post took so long to write have only just seen you two's ;)

Funnily enough Paul was leaning towards this option after a discussion with bill last night and even said it cleared the coolant pipes and also had enough of poxy downpipe fitments and nuts and bolts in impossible places, everytime i work on it i always say at least this is the last time lol :)

And cheers for the pics as have been searching through his thread most of this morning
 
Yes agree with the do it right do it once but like you say its easier said than done lol

In one aspect the downpipe will be almost free as haywards have agreed to refund the costs once returned to them and lines will have to have been made anyhow so costs will end up being manifold and wastegate although i will be saving around £100 on not buying an rs2 on to complete my kit for sale :)
 
Here's some pics of my power steering pipe where the downpipe has been rubbing

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Am a bit concerned about this pipe :0

Anyhows didn't get much done at all yesterday as really couldn't get motivated to get up and crack on (was in bed to gone 3 browsing the net) lol as was unsure of direction I was heading

After ATP getting back to me yesterday and they're words "we'll support you what ever route you decide" which was comforting so the k26 is on it's way back in for now and have got plans afoot ;)
 
Its a right pain in the **** when stuff like this happens but goes to highlight the issues that crop up when modding at this level... had my fair share of this during my build and you learn from it and move on...

Pity you aren't local as I reckon a couple of hours in the pub one evening could have all this ironed out lol ;P

<tuffty/>
 
Its a right pain in the **** when stuff like this happens but goes to highlight the issues that crop up when modding at this level... had my fair share of this during my build and you learn from it and move on...

Pity you aren't local as I reckon a couple of hours in the pub one evening could have all this ironed out lol ;P

<tuffty/>

You don't want to get Stace in the pub for a couple of hours, he's an animal!

This is the back of his car after he's done the weekly shop :faint:

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You really need to sort out that DP mate, it's been a massive ballache since day 1 and you dont want it to wear right through that pipe :faint:

I know a man thats pretty good with downpipes :)

<tuffty/>
 
Got afriend with a trailer who run it to haywards last time but really don't think he will be up for that kind of distance and I'm pretty sure I can't tow on my licence :(

I'm sure I'll find a way one way or another ;)
 
You don't want to get Stace in the pub for a couple of hours, he's an animal!

This is the back of his car after he's done the weekly shop :faint:

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Lmfao I'm not that bad I just don't like revisiting the shop to often ;)

Although at the ring we had a pretty heavy session :)
 
Although at the Nurburgring we had a pretty heavy session :)

just edited so it doesn't sound to suspect lol

"Heavey session" is an understatement! We all got steaming, you could have been arrested, we nearly got in a row with a load of huge Germans who were chasing you, we then destroyed James' bed tipping him upside down at the hotel, I then broke my toe in the morning with my hangover and staggering into a jack that was stupidly positioned at the end of my bed :)

Happy days :beerchug: