a few issues and problems after remap (and possibly before!)

John Spooner

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ok just had my custom code stage 1 on my a3 agu 1.8t which im happy with, few things iv noticed are that before the remap vagcom was reading 137 bhp - after remap 173 bhp so something dont seem right there, iv not got a boost gauge so atm i ant say what its boosting to untill i put vagcom through it again as all i was interested in at the time was the lack of bhp as i was hoping for at least 190 bhp, other thing iv noticed is that every now and then it feels as if its not boosting at all as if its just running on standard map! almost like i can feel the engine working harder but no turbo at all, im sure its not my imagination as i cant hear the bosch dv either when i experience it like i usually do WHEN i can hear the turbo spool and bosch dv flutter which is fairly loud so a problem is there somewhere! it not always like it tho, 80% of the time its boosting fine and a lovely turbo spool sound. Maybe the problem lies in the..... N75? Turbo? DV? or maybe boost leak which i cant seems to find any, any specific places on agu engines? help appreciated thanks.......also my engine has done 155k
 
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155k miles yea?
original turbo?

vagcom aint 100% on power estimate.... so was there a REAL power run on a dyno before/after?

got a boost gauge?
 
155k miles yea?
original turbo?

vagcom aint 100% on power estimate.... so was there a REAL power run on a dyno before/after?

got a boost gauge?

yep 155k not sure about turbo as only owned the car for 2 months so i would assume it is and no iv had no proper dyno run but vagcom'd my mates engine with 33k on a revo stage 1 and produced 203 bhp so there must be a fault somewhere if im only getting 173 bhp!, no boost gauge but was thinking of doing it through vagcom
 
anyone have any ideas? just been out in it and it was fine, then went to give it some and couldnt hear no turbo spool, couldnt feel any surge of boost , 5 mins later and it was fine
 
can't get boost readings via vagcom on the AGU engine due to it not having a MAP sensor.

fit a boost gauge.
 
yea so iv just realized, just wondering why iv not got the full power im supposed to get from the remap and why iv got an intermittent boost problem with the turbo etc
 
vagcom results, although i dont understand some of it, could any of these explain the boost problems or power loss im experiencing?

vagcom.png

vvagcom.png
 
Clear the codes and start again..reset the throttle body..

will do that, and repost, also just had the throttle body cleaned and reset before remap so should i do it again? well they told me they reset it weather or not they did i can only take their word for, just did a bit of a comparison to my friends mk4 20v non turbo and to be fair he nearly beat me:shrug:
 
Where did you get the map done? never seen a Custom Code map throw a 'Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded' fault before... thats from a raised rev limit that hasn't had the diag value increased too... std rev limit is 6.8k on these cars so guessing yours is 7.2k now as that fairly std on stage 1 maps...

<tuffty/>
 
I don't know much about VAG COM, but I do know that you should throw that standard bosch dump valve away. They're useless mate especially on a remapped car. Get a forge 007p or a 008 and fit the yellow spring.

My guess is it's leaking boost past the bosch DV. Also, "turbo flutter" isn't as innocent as it sounds, it's actually very bad for the turbo. It's what happens when the dump valve opens, but not all the excess boost can escape because it's not up to the job, causing pressure to build up instantly and stop the turbo spinning. The waste gate then opens and closes rapidly to try and get rid of the excess boost causing the turbo blades to stop and start rapidly.

Hope this helps
Ben
 
thanks so much guy for your help i am grateful cause to be franked im screwed without your help, yep its revving to 7.2 now tuffty il put up my logging results from my 3rd gear run in a bit, 173 bhp is disappointing so im really hoping i can source the cause, im bidding on a 007 right now, if i dont win il just buy a new one, trying to do a tba but keep getting to many coms error with vagcom so gotta recharge the laptop and try again, would any of you say iv got a serious problem and could i possibly get the 190 bhp iv been quoted to get after remap?
 
As VAGCOM calculations for power are based on airflow and as everything the ECU does for an AGU is based on airflow I would suspect your MAF is past its selby date...

Logging airlfow would help work out whats going on but unless you have had your car run on a dyno then take power calculated on VCDS logging with a pinch of salt... and get a boost gauge :)

<tuffty/>
 
ok well iv tried the throttle body reset and im having a slight issue, my agu is a drive by wire and its telling me to go to block 060 on ross tech site but when i do that i get N/A on the 4 white blocks, is that defo the right blocks i should be checking? my engine speaks KW-1281
 
TB reset is different on AGU's... can't remember the procedure but you are probably thinking of drive by wire TB reset which you can't do as your TB is cable operated..

<tuffty/>
 
so what would you say my options are now? throttle body was cleaned before remap anyway so it must self adjust, could it be anything to do with the other codes? and possibly dump valve! n75?

logs below

log.png
 
vagcom results, although i dont understand some of it, could any of these explain the boost problems or power loss im experiencing?

vagcom.png

vvagcom.png

Why would anyone still map a car with all of those faults eludes me.


Think of it this way, you were 13 BHP down to start with, that's what you should be thinking, . This makes the increase genuine one
 
Why would anyone still map a car with all of those faults eludes me.


Think of it this way, you were 13 BHP down to start with, that's what you should be thinking, . This makes the increase genuine one

what that suppose to mean, why shouldnt i map the car with the faults, not that i even new they was there before, and tuffty what makes u think the maf? do u think my power will return and also with a 007p?
 
mate, as Mark has said... no one should remap a car if it has faults... its a pointless task as you are now in a situation where you have spent money on a map thats no use to you as you have other problems...

Every decent tuner I know will log fault codes and advise accordingly... faults like that should be sorted prior to mapping...

As for the MAF... everything the ECU does with boost control and fueling is based from MAF readings... if the MAF is reading low due to it being faulty it will give less boost and therefore less performance... low reading is not a fault in the eyes of the ECU so you won't see it logged... 9 time out of 10 on the AGU,low airflow is a MAF sensor on its way out... they are a part that should arguably be a service item as they go so frequently..

I suggest you either borrow a sensor from a friend that has an AGU engine code VAG (A3 or Golf) and see if thats any better or just buy one anyway as they do and will expire... if you do not know when it was last changed then chances are its the MAF..

<tuffty/>
 
If the OEM DV is leaking then you will loose boost pressure... change this first for another OEM DV or a 007p... this may be the issue you are having assuming the noise you are having is a 'choo choo choo' type noise as you let off the throttle... you should only be hearing a psssst type of noise if the DV is operating correctly but can sometimes make the same noise on part throttle lift off if just on spool as the DV will react more slowly to lack of a decent vacuum...

Change first and if you are still down on power then look to change the MAF

<tuffty/>
 
If the OEM DV is leaking then you will loose boost pressure... change this first for another OEM DV or a 007p... this may be the issue you are having assuming the noise you are having is a 'choo choo choo' type noise as you let off the throttle... you should only be hearing a psssst type of noise if the DV is operating correctly but can sometimes make the same noise on part throttle lift off if just on spool as the DV will react more slowly to lack of a decent vacuum...

Change first and if you are still down on power then look to change the MAF

<tuffty/>

ok thanks for the advice, so as to the other faults il get them seen to aswell but i didnt realize they would cause other problems as to the remap!?
 
Another fine example of cowboy mapping by tuners who couldnt care less about the cars they work on.
Ah well he made his quick wedge.

Hope you get it sorted
 
but to be fair they aint to blame as they didnt know of faults and neither did i until after the remap
 
but to be fair they aint to blame as they didnt know of faults and neither did i until after the remap
a huuuuge company like that, and all they did was load a map, take your money and off you go. thats shameful.
like many top vag tuners out there, cars should be checked over, thoroughly, diagnosed and run on the dyno etc etc.
how the hell can they just load a map and expect it to be perfect for that particular car, especially when they could have faults, as yours did. it covers their own *****, as well as building their reputation. i just dont get it. i really dont.
for the money you've paid, you should expect either A) a sweet running car or B) some advise on how to get your car map worthy, then you'd go back to them, its an investment at the end of the day.
rant over.

like i've said, good luck, and hopefully soon you'l be happy
 
but to be fair they aint to blame as they didnt know of faults and neither did i until after the remap

No excuse mate... should have scanned the car prior to mapping... did the car get a before and after on the dyno? I assume it did considering you went to JBS...

A scan and a before dyno would have shown up the issues before you spent your hard earned cash...

<tuffty/>
 
137bhp is 13bhp down to start with, add 13bhp to the 173 you got post map and you're at 186, which is about bang on for a stage 1 AGU on 155k!

Find the cause of the initial loss, and all should be well.

As tufty says, more than likely a maf or leak in the system due to split DV or PCV hose.

I'd bet good money that the PCV hose in the middle underside of the inlet manifold will be cracked, I've only ever come across one AGU before where this hose wasn't split and costing power and economy!
 
yep it was chipped and KJM sent the ecu away, all done through KJM Crediton, im not blaming anyone apart from myself so il get it sorted and thanks prawn il check that pipe later and let u know if its split
 
what that suppose to mean, why shouldnt i map the car with the faults, not that i even new they was there before,

Are you for REAL?

why shouldnt i map the car with the faults

Is'nt it obvious?!?!?!?!?!

not that i even new they was there before


Whoever stuck the remap on *should* have checked... and if these were present then, NOT, stuck a map on.. You have'nt said who mapped this....... Why so evasive?
 
but to be fair they aint to blame as they didnt know of faults and neither did i until after the remap

no before and after dynos done obviously........... as its obvious if the "before" figure is lower and faultcodes are present something needs fixing...
 
You might want to look at your temp sensor and/or stat too, as they could help explain the lambda values? What temp does the car run at during normal driving, 90deg or less...?
 
defo runs at 90deg but i know the sensor has an implausible signal so after awhile it drops back to 60 and wont come up again till im parked or on idle, badger 5 im sorry im not clued up as you guys are as its your job to know what your doing, im not that technical and clued up with cars, its all a bit of learning process for me but i appreciate the help and i said it was jbs who did the map and it was fitted though kjm
 
All good bro... we all started somewhere :)

Just go through the stuff discussed in this thread mate and report back once done....

<tuffty/>
 

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