Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

Just a quick update - the opening & closing manually several times certainly appears to have sorted it (for now) - so thanks very much for that tip! However, I can't help but feel that if it went wrong before it'll happen again... I'm hoping to get a garage to read the codes - not sure I can justify the expense of the cable...
 
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Hello,

Just about to attempt this on my 2008 A4 Cab. It failed when out and about, roof was open/down. When I went to close roof the storage compartment only opened a couple of inches and nothing else happened. Took it to local Audi Garage and they closed the roof manually.

Before I attempt the above do I need to open the roof and store it or can I complete the above and see if it works?

Many thanks
 
bolert said:
Hello,

Just about to attempt this on my 2008 A4 Cab. It failed when out and about, roof was open/down. When I went to close roof the storage compartment only opened a couple of inches and nothing else happened. Took it to local Audi Garage and they closed the roof manually.

Before I attempt the above do I need to open the roof and store it or can I complete the above and see if it works?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Bolert, I would definitely recommend opening and closing it manually a couple of times first, if you cannot hear the hydraulic unit then open up the cover and see if the motor is getting any power with a multimeter on the black and red wires going to the motor.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply.

Do I need to get a friend to activate the roof switch while I am testing with the multi meter, or is there always a 12v supply?

If I cant hear anything from the motor and there seems to be power I'll clean the contacts. do I need to have the roof in open position before I activate via the normal switch?

Thanks
 
Also will the sync/ sensors be out as the roof was manually raised if I try to lower it via the switch in the cabin?

Thanks again.
 
bolert said:
Thanks for the reply.

Do I need to get a friend to activate the roof switch while I am testing with the multi meter, or is there always a 12v supply?

If I cant hear anything from the motor and there seems to be power I'll clean the contacts. do I need to have the roof in open position before I activate via the normal switch?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Bolert,

Yes you need to activate the roof switch when testing for power, you will get a +ve voltage when opening or a -ve voltage when closing (dependant on which way you connect the leads)

If there is power then yes clean the contacts. The roof has to be in closed position for access issues.
 
OK Cool, thanks. Will give it a go tomorrow. Once its working again do I need to manually lower it or should it operate as normal.

I'll let you know how i get on. :)
 
Hi Krumz,

Disconnected the Red & Black wire connector on the motor and started car, got a friend to activate the roof switch while I was using the multi meter. I got no voltage in either direction. Could it be a relay? Checked fuse in drivers side compartment all OK. The oil reservoir on the pump is at minimum, no evidence of a leak.

I proceeded to take apart the motor and clean the connector that was dirty, re assembled and placed motor back in position.

Started car and tried the roof switch, the roof popped up at the front but nothing happened at the back, rear glass didn't raise.

Also just popped to local garage and got a VAGCOM read out.

Address 46: Central Conv.
Part No: 8H0 959 433 M

Fault Found:
00830 - Convertible Top Control Module (J256)
49-10 - No communications - Intermittent

and

Address 26: Auto Roof
Part No: 8H0 959 255 A

Fault Found:
02000 - Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal

Hope this makes more sense to you than me. What is the next thing to try?

Many thanks and hope to hear from you soon.
 
Last edited:
bolert said:
Hi Krumz,

Disconnected the Red & Black wire connector on the motor and started car, got a friend to activate the roof switch while I was using the multi meter. I got no voltage in either direction. Could it be a relay? Checked fuse in drivers side compartment all OK. The oil reservoir on the pump is at minimum, no evidence of a leak.

I proceeded to take apart the motor and clean the connector that was dirty, re assembled and placed motor back in position.

Started car and tried the roof switch, the roof popped up at the front but nothing happened at the back, rear glass didn't raise.

Also just popped to local garage and got a VAGCOM read out.

Address 46: Central Conv.
Part No: 8H0 959 433 M

Fault Found:
00830 - Convertible Top Control Module (J256)
49-10 - No communications - Intermittent

and

Address 26: Auto Roof
Part No: 8H0 959 255 A

Fault Found:
02000 - Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal

Hope this makes more sense to you than me. What is the next thing to try?

Many thanks and hope to hear from you soon.
Click to expand...

Hello Bolert,

The roof is unclocking from the front but the hydraulic control unit is not actuating. I would have tested for power with the loom connected to the motor.

Did you have the ignition on and disconnected the control unit ? Have you cleared the codes and see if they re-appeared?

The switch position one will come up if the roof goes out of sync and once the roof is working it should clear up....if it doesnt the switch will need replacing.
 
Krumz said:
Hello Bolert,

The roof is unclocking from the front but the hydraulic control unit is not actuating. I would have tested for power with the loom connected to the motor.

Did you have the ignition on and disconnected the control unit ? Have you cleared the codes and see if they re-appeared?

The switch position one will come up if the roof goes out of sync and once the roof is working it should clear up....if it doesnt the switch will need replacing.
Click to expand...

Will try the power again with it connected to the motor. I disconnected the loom with ignition off and then turned on to check for +ve and -ve feeds.
Codes are cleared but haven't checked if they reappear. Roof still wouldn't work once they were cleared.

How do I get it back in sync? It failed when the roof was open so do I need to manually open it and then see if it will close automatically?

When you say switch you mean the one next to handbrake? Is this the part no: in relation to the Auto roof fault code?

Many thanks
 
bolert said:
Will try the power again with it connected to the motor. I disconnected the loom with ignition off and then turned on to check for +ve and -ve feeds.
Codes are cleared but haven't checked if they reappear. Roof still wouldn't work once they were cleared.

How do I get it back in sync? It failed when the roof was open so do I need to manually open it and then see if it will close automatically?

When you say switch you mean the one next to handbrake? Is this the part no: in relation to the Auto roof fault code?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Bolert,

Getting it back in sync would involve completing a couple of open and close cycles manually or electronically.

No I mean there are a number of position switches on the roof. It is one of them. Do not worry about the implausible signal fault code for now. Just get the codes cleared, operate the roof and see what appears.
 
Krumz said:
Hi Bolert,

Getting it back in sync would involve completing a couple of open and close cycles manually or electronically.

No I mean there are a number of position switches on the roof. It is one of them. Do not worry about the implausible signal fault code for now. Just get the codes cleared, operate the roof and see what appears.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I had the codes cleared yesterday but it still did the same thing, only lifting abit at the front.

Today I opened the roof manually, quite easy when you've done it once. Locked storage compartment and tried it again automatically, windows went down and storage box popped open but didn't raise.

Closed the roof manually and locked it all in place, tried automatically operating but front only popped up but nothing else happened.

Is it worth doing 2 complete manual cycles before trying it automatically?

After that what else is there to try? Many thanks for your help on this, very much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Krumz said:
Once you cleared the codes did they reappear ?
Click to expand...

Not sure, garage wouldn't do a 2nd reading for free! Will have to pay £45 to find out.
Then make a decision on how to proceed and whether I get Audi or the local garage to do it.
 
Krumz said:
The thieving c11nts !!! Our guy charges £25 here, he clears the codes and sees what comes back up. Bottom line is if you are getting a communication error from the roof module, the only thing you can do is check its getting power and there are no wire breaks

herwise it's repair or replace it
Click to expand...
Yeah I know!!!!

Where is the roof module located? Or is that all part of the pump which is where I checked the power before when I disconnected it?
Is there anywhere else I should check power (ie. relays)
The roof hasn't had much use really and car has only done 22k.

Are the roof modules expensive, could I replace myself?

Thanks
 
audi upgrades
Krumz said:
It's part of the pump, look at the wiring diagrams (in my first post) and look where there should be power. The part number is on the module. You really need to get vagcom and elsa first mate before you go any further
Click to expand...

OK will try and get another reading.

Opened and closed roof manually a couple of times in succession to see if that would help, but still nothing. Should the ignition be on when doing this?
 
Bolert,

Just noticed you are not a millon miles from me, i'm Bexleyheath area. I have full VCDS. If you want to come to me this Sunday maybe we can both work this out together? Plus I wont charge you £45...lol :racer:

Andy
 
Amason007 said:
Bolert,

Just noticed you are not a millon miles from me, i'm Bexleyheath area. I have full VCDS. If you want to come to me this Sunday maybe we can both work this out together? Plus I wont charge you £45...lol :racer:

Andy
Click to expand...

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the link and the offer. This weekend isn't going to work I'm afraid. Are you available Bank Holiday Friday or the Monday?

Tris
 
Let me get back to you on that. Not sure if the MRS has anything planned for the B/H week end yet!

Andy
 
No worries, having said that, either first thing Friday ot the Monday would work better if you are free. Otherwise can arrange another time. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
Hi i have some questions about this procedure. I have cleaned the collectors 2 times but with no gain. When i check with vag-com it looks like all sensors is fine. They are 11011010 and 10 1010 when the roof is on. When roof is manually folded to trunk they are 00100001 and 10 1010. I think thats right. I have raised the roof manually och it looks like all the bits "toggles" on and off (except that one that is not used, second in 001,3). Then they should be ok?

The roof just "unlatches" from the windshield frame and then stops, after stopping i have to manually lower it, button does not work. After lowering it it works again (but ofcourse stops at the same point). The hydraulic motor shold engage there i think.

G356 goes from 236 to 28, looks like numbers other ppl are having also.
003,0 is all zeroes. ?
004,1 is all zeroes.
006,0 to 007,4 are all not used ?

The varible storage compartment lever and its sensors does not show in vag-com? When i move the lever front and back nothing changes in vag-com. Will the roof start raising (it unlatches) even with that lever in the wrong position? Mine does.

When i use "output tests" the steps that test relay J588 and J321 both seems to run the hydraulic pump/engine. That proves that its not the collectors that is dirty, right? All other steps show "on" in that first square.

I have also tried to connect another car with jumpercables and have that one running and then looked in realtime on the voltage on pin 30. It barely sinks. I tried this because i have some 00532 (and 18010) errors.

Please give me all your ideas because i am pretty stuck.
 
@Krumz
Thanks a lot mate for the detailed explanation.

I have fixed a relay problem with the help of you.

Cheers.
 
Danne980 said:
Hi i have some questions about this procedure. I have cleaned the collectors 2 times but with no gain. When i check with vag-com it looks like all sensors is fine. They are 11011010 and 10 1010 when the roof is on. When roof is manually folded to trunk they are 00100001 and 10 1010. I think thats right. I have raised the roof manually och it looks like all the bits "toggles" on and off (except that one that is not used, second in 001,3). Then they should be ok?

The roof just "unlatches" from the windshield frame and then stops, after stopping i have to manually lower it, button does not work. After lowering it it works again (but ofcourse stops at the same point). The hydraulic motor shold engage there i think.

G356 goes from 236 to 28, looks like numbers other ppl are having also.
003,0 is all zeroes. ?
004,1 is all zeroes.
006,0 to 007,4 are all not used ?

The varible storage compartment lever and its sensors does not show in vag-com? When i move the lever front and back nothing changes in vag-com. Will the roof start raising (it unlatches) even with that lever in the wrong position? Mine does.

When i use "output tests" the steps that test relay J588 and J321 both seems to run the hydraulic pump/engine. That proves that its not the collectors that is dirty, right? All other steps show "on" in that first square.

I have also tried to connect another car with jumpercables and have that one running and then looked in realtime on the voltage on pin 30. It barely sinks. I tried this because i have some 00532 (and 18010) errors.

Please give me all your ideas because i am pretty stuck.
Click to expand...

Hello Danne,

The guide is only to solve a dodgy connection between the brushes and motor commutator, this is usually caused as the brushes become tight in the brush housing, they do not make "good" contact with the commutator and this causes arcing, which in turn leads to poor contact.

1 - I have seen you have carried out a lot of diagnosis. If you can break it down line by line, I can do the same on my car and you can compare the results.
2 - When closing the roof does the storage compartment unlatch ?
3 - Are you getting any fault codes?
4- Have you put a multimeter on the power cord going to the hydraulic unit motor to see if it is getting power?
 
Krumz said:
Hello Danne,

The guide is only to solve a dodgy connection between the brushes and motor commutator, this is usually caused as the brushes become tight in the brush housing, they do not make "good" contact with the commutator and this causes arcing, which in turn leads to poor contact. I understood that, i was just trying to get confirmation that this could not be my fault. (because the hydraulic pump runs in "output tests in vag-com)

1 - I have seen you have carried out a lot of diagnosis. If you can break it down line by line, I can do the same on my car and you can compare the results.
I have to do this later because i just now dont have the vag-com pc. But one thing i should want to get confirmed is that the roof dont even start to unlatch when the variable starage lever is in the "wrong" position.


2 - When closing the roof does the storage compartment unlatch ?
I cant manuver the roof when its above latches (about 230isch on G356). Even when fully retracted and folded in compartment id does not respond when pushing the switch.

3 - Are you getting any fault codes?
Yes 02000 switch position- 008 implausible signal and sometimes 00532 supply voltage to low.

4- Have you put a multimeter on the power cord going to the hydraulic unit motor to see if it is getting power?
No i have not my multimeter just past on, have to get a new one and start messuring.
Click to expand...

BTW you my man is awsome!!!! THX!!!

EDIT: I think i should also look at the "ground braids"(?) and maybe a new battery.
 
3. Switch again? Has already changed one of thoose, and that time it worked out. But this time it behaves a bit different. But it might be worth a try. In vag-com it open and closes when pushed/pulled. But maybe it is more advanced then that?

I have been thinking on this error like ut was some "microswitch" in the roof that was sending "bad information".
The fault is always there after i have pulled the cab button so that the roof unlatches.

2. After the roof "unlatches" and the error occure i cant in anyway move it (exept manually) until i pull it all down again and lock it with the emergency handle. Even if i put the roof in som inbetween position it does not respond when pushing/pulling the button. Fully retracted and folded in to trunk does not change that.

1. Great, one thing less to trouble my mind.
 
Hi Danne,

3. If you are getting a code saying "implausible signal" that means the switch position cannot be true with the other inputs the control unit is getting. So its either that switch has an issue or something else which gives the roof position is giving a wrong reading.

2. Yes if there is a code present, to prevent damage the roof will not move....

How about a vid? have you got an iphone?
 
bolert said:
Booked in at the stealers on 24th. See what they say.
Click to expand...

Audi have determined that the Hydraulic Motor has failed as the commutators are not connecting to the motor spindle to make contact. I did try and clean the slides but it still wouldn't slide down far enough.
Usually £500 to replace, Audi are doing it for £250 due it not being 4 years old and has less than 25k on the clock.

Shame it wasn't a simple fix.
 
bolert said:
Audi have determined that the Hydraulic Motor has failed as the commutators are not connecting to the motor spindle to make contact. I did try and clean the slides but it still wouldn't slide down far enough.
Usually £500 to replace, Audi are doing it for £250 due it not being 4 years old and has less than 25k on the clock.

Shame it wasn't a simple fix.
Click to expand...

Just to refresh my memory did you check the voltage to the motor (black and red wire plug) to motor with a multimeter ?


If you ain't given Audi the go ahead this guy repairs motors
 
Krumz said:
Just to refresh my memory did you check the voltage to the motor (black and red wire plug) to motor with a multimeter ?


If you ain't given Audi the go ahead this guy repairs motors
Click to expand...

Yep I did check, even stripped motor apart again after discussing with electrical engineer at work who explained how the motor worked.

Not being done until end of May.
 
Awesome, followed the instructions to a tee!!!! And now have a fully working hood :) Thanks Krumz
 
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Hello

I oponed the soft top on my audi A4 2006 but when i attempetd to close the roof, the staorge compartment only opned a couple of inches and nothing else happens. I called the AA who managed to close the roof manually and advised me to take the car to an Audi dealer. I note very usefull tips from this thread which may resolve the issue. Any advice on what i need to try first to reslove the issue will be much appreciated.

Many Thanks

Abe
 
Krumz - You sir are a legend!
I thank you for your detailed instructions and I have now have a fully working roof after 4 weeks of misery. My local Audi stealer wanted £120 an hour to just look at it to tell me what was wrong. It's taken me a while to get sorted as I also had a broken bracket on the roof stowage box system but I've fixed that with "Q-Bond" (fantastic stuff) and now cleaned my pump and hey presto!
Just in time for the sunshine!

Abe - Mine was a Feb 07 (2006 car) and your symptoms sound exactly the same as mine! Check your roof box mechanism works properly first and nothing is broken then just do what Krumz says here.
 
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