F***ing car

S3featesV9

S3featesV9

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Cars gone again, lost oil pressure and engine knocking AGAIN. Really at my
Wits. How much is the s3 worth needing new big end bearings? Lol.

All I can do is laugh, otherwise I'd cry! Stupid arsing **** 1.8t engine.
 
Yeah pretty much. Just not sure if it's the garage at fault or place that reworked the crank and supplied new bearings.
 
Gutted for you mate.

Hope you get it sorted.
 
I have to agree with aragorn here mate... have built a few of these in the past with no issues... you had the crank reground didn't you?

<tuffty/>
 
Wow, you are certainly not having an easy time of it. Hope you get some joy out of the garage who did the work and don't have to pay to get it sorted again.
 
audi upgrades
Yeah had crank reground. Livid at the moment.

It could be something else, but I am pretty sure it's bottom end. it has a brand new oil pump and oil pick up. Well is supplied them, so hopefully they were fitted. So just doesn't add up. New bearings, crank fresh, new oil bits mentioned, new forged rods, rifle drilled. New piston rings, new valve stem seals. New cambelt new pulleys, new everything!!
 
Point is even if the engineering shop that reground the crank messed it up, the folk building the engine should have plastiguaged it to check all the clearances before putting it together, especially after the first failure, everything should have been triple checked.
 
True. Manager of garage isn't in today so won't here anything until mid day tomorrow. Not having anyone else touch it.

If something wasn't done right...surely this would of happened ages ago? I've done loads of miles. Like four tanks worth so about 1200 miles. Should all of this worth be covered by the garage? Or can they just turn around and bull**** then make me pay again?
 
audi upgrades
S3featesV9 said:
Yeah pretty much. Just not sure if it's the garage at fault or place that reworked the crank and supplied new bearings.
Click to expand...

Mate, that's rubbish!

I guarantee though it's the place that reworked your engine and not the garage. Get in touch with them. Surely you should have some warranty after only 1200 fu**ing miles!
 
Mate this is seriously crap news! When I had works done by the garage you used they realy didn't fill me with confidence ant it was only a small job! I don't realy trust them at all. Just my thoughts though, if you are thinking of selling your car on you will probs be better off just breaking it to recoup most of your losses......

If so I'll have your TIP lol!
 
bagsy the rods!

thing is it will be hard to trace the problem and then you have the hassle of getting the garage/engineering place to admit fault.
best of luck. no one likes to see a poorly 8l S3 die :sob:
 
Stripping the engine will tell you... I suspect looking at the state of the shells will indicate whats happened... thats where I would start looking... the other thing is if they have fitted the rods correctly... I have heard of garages not doing the ARP bolts up properly in the past doing the factory method (stretch bolts) which is not suitable for ARP bolts... there is a specific sequence for this...

<tuffty/>
 
Yep it sounds like the rod bolts have come loose to me and spun the bearings maybe....anyway whoever s fault it is i am gutted for you and the one thing i am dreading,, i hate stories like this 200 mile into running mine in...:sadlike:
 
Can I also suggest the Rod caps have been put on the wrong way round, Ie the tangs on the bearings and caps not facing each other. I've seen this before more than once, and althoug they go on the engine get will run they wear the bearing out in 500-1000miles just like yours. They issue you have is that if you take it back to the garage that did the work, you need to be there to watch them when they take it apart or they can easily say, oh we did it right and blag you! or get it inspected by an independant garage getting them to look very closely to the build and the way parts are put together.
 
One word mate : Gutted :(

I had issues with my last S3 and a clutch change which almost broke me whilst trying to get it sorted. Still after the effort and money taking to get it back on the road this is just another hurdle to overcome and from whats been said above by clever people sounds fair and therefore i believe you should be able to get it sorted by the people who were at fault.

Rob
 
ARP bolts? They used the bolts supplied with the rods. And yeah I have tomorrow off work now so will be over there as soon as end and crack are off to see it for myself.

My dad has said it will be fixed whatever. He isn't taking any ****. He's had enough of it more than me. Even when it is fixed, it'll still may be put up for sale.

Will have more info on it tomorrow. And yeah Matt, I wish I never went there in the first place. But as they did the work (horrendously) they can fix it.

Really hope it is rods bolts come loose. What torque should they be? I'll ask them tomorrow and see what they say ;))
 
S3featesV9 said:
ARP bolts? They used the bolts supplied with the rods. And yeah I have tomorrow off work now so will be over there as soon as end and crack are off to see it for myself.

My dad has said it will be fixed whatever. He isn't taking any ****. He's had enough of it more than me. Even when it is fixed, it'll still may be put up for sale.

Will have more info on it tomorrow. And yeah Matt, I wish I never went there in the first place. But as they did the work (horrendously) they can fix it.

Really hope it is rods bolts come loose. What torque should they be? I'll ask them tomorrow and see what they say ;))
Click to expand...

The bolts supplied would have been ARP fasteners and should also have included the lubricant used to install them. There is a specific sequence you need to follow when fitting them, torquing them up and undoing them a couple of times IIRC to a specific torque and then finally torquing them to the required load. If they have cocked up any part of this or not even used the lubricant then you could have a bolt that has been torqued up too little or too much and has been stretched and won't clamp the rod and end caps together correctly.

Good luck with getting it sorted mate, it's too easy for them to pass on the blame but perservere with it until it is sorted.
 
ARP bolts on the rods are normally torqued to 55ftlbs 3 times (3rd time being the final torque)... you apply a bit of moly based grease (IE rods come with ARP grease in a packet) as the bolts are hard and will give false torque readings as they bind on the rod cap... then tighten to 55ftlbs once... slacken off... torque to 55ftlbs again and slacken off then torque to 55ftlbs for the third and last time...

OEM spec is some torque (can't remember figure) then 90 degrees iirc... fine for OEM stretch bolts, not so good for hard ARP ones..

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
ARP bolts on the rods are normally torqued to 55ftlbs 3 times (3rd time being the final torque)... you apply a bit of moly based grease (IE rods come with ARP grease in a packet) as the bolts are hard and will give false torque readings as they bind on the rod cap... then tighten to 55ftlbs once... slacken off... torque to 55ftlbs again and slacken off then torque to 55ftlbs for the third and last time...

OEM spec is some torque (can't remember figure) then 90 degrees iirc... fine for OEM stretch bolts, not so good for hard ARP ones..

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Oh crap! How important is it to slacken off after the 1st and 2nd torque ups? We did mine 3 times to the torque setting specified but didn't slacken between each one. IT was the same way Stacey did his engine and the same Pete had done his so fingers crossed it will be fine.
 
Westy said:
Oh crap! How important is it to slacken off after the 1st and 2nd torque ups? We did mine 3 times to the torque setting specified but didn't slacken between each one. IT was the same way Stacey did his engine and the same Pete had done his so fingers crossed it will be fine.
Click to expand...

ARP-bolts.com | ARP - World-leading Fastener Technology

On ARP's correct lubricant and re-torque cycling is fairly important... they don't stretch like normal bolts and need to be done right... article above is quite general but will give you an idea...

If you didn't use any lube at all then I would be more concerned... not using the recommended tightening sequence could mean the preload on the bolt is not enough and could cause the bolt to work loose over time...

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
ARP-bolts.com | ARP - World-leading Fastener Technology

On ARP's correct lubricant and re-torque cycling is fairly important... they don't stretch like normal bolts and need to be done right... article above is quite general but will give you an idea...

If you didn't use any lube at all then I would be more concerned... not using the recommended tightening sequence could mean the preload on the bolt is not enough and could cause the bolt to work loose over time...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

The ARP lube was used yes :yes:

aragorn said:
I did mine like you did Westy and mine hasnt fallen apart yet :p
Click to expand...

Great news lol
 
Great! Bet they did the OEM torque, if they did any at all. All was going so well too. Paynes who did the crank have said they are willing to inspect it all too see what's happened. Roger who has been in the business for 40 years said he has never had a problem. And guarantees the garage have messed up installing it. Thinks a bearing has slipped too.

And that red grease, was still in the box when I picked it up. Opened but half ish remaining.

Am hoping the rods aren't scarred. As they cost a fortune.
 
Westy said:
Oh crap! How important is it to slacken off after the 1st and 2nd torque ups? We did mine 3 times to the torque setting specified but didn't slacken between each one. IT was the same way Stacey did his engine and the same Pete had done his so fingers crossed it will be fine.
Click to expand...

Mate I don't get how you torqued them up 3 times without undoing the bolt each time and slackening them off?
 
Maybe he was just triple checking they were torqued correctly
 
I'm sure your have no issues any way dude. Garage I've used are just monkeys. Live and learn! Actually would of been cheaper for me to take 2 weeks off and do it myself after all this 'extra' work.
 
S3featesV9 said:
I'm sure your have no issues any way dude. Garage I've used are just monkeys. Live and learn! Actually would of been cheaper for me to take 2 weeks off and do it myself after all this 'extra' work.
Click to expand...

You don't need 2 weeks mate. All you need is the ASN Engine Response Team to come round an blitz it in 2 days. You just have to pay for their services with beer and curry ;)
 
Westy said:
You don't need 2 weeks mate. All you need is the ASN Engine Response Team to come round an blitz it in 2 days. You just have to pay for their services with beer and curry ;)
Click to expand...

well if the garage refuse to pay and its coming out of my pocket then i will be doing it at home, so ill take you up on that offer!! poppadoms too yeah? haha
 
Just popped to the garage to see my car still sat outside not even touched yet. So spoke to the manager who did that work. I mentioned that I'm sure it's span a beating, he said he had started it up and built up revs to 1k and could here it. He agrees. So I asked why do you think this has happened. He said until the sump is off he can't comment why. So I jumped in and said the Rods were torqued correctly right? He just replaced with yeah to OEM spec. :( so explained that these are different and require specific settings. He said well, if that's the case they should of stated 'please torgue to x y z etc. so how was he to no. My comment of your the professional mechanic not me.

What do I take as next step now? Assuming it is this?
 
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