W3STY's Progress Thread

What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

  • Porsche Guards Red

    Votes: 43 57.3%

  • Kawasaki Green

    Votes: 32 42.7%
  • Total voters
    75
Westy said:
Hey I can't blame my parts advisor, I asked you to order them ;)

I still need a few more bits off you anyway. I'm in Bedford this Saturday if you're in work or about I can give you back the small end bushes.
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Picking up your head? Im going to Cylinder head engineering this morning to drop some bits off for a head we have there lol. I`ll be fitting my coilovers on saturday so probably wouldnt be able to meet you up there. Just drop them at St Ives or something and i`ll get them next week :)
 
Jason.s said:
Picking up your head? Im going to Cylinder head engineering this morning to drop some bits off for a head we have there lol. I`ll be fitting my coilovers on saturday so probably wouldnt be able to meet you up there. Just drop them at St Ives or something and i`ll get them next week :)
Click to expand...

Yes mate collecting the head, finally.

Ok I'll drop the parts off at St. Ives VW.

Can anyone advise whether its worth me changing the wrist pins?
 
I didnt bother.

Unless they look totalled like tufftys were, i dont see any point.

I've stripped three engines including one that had siezed and one that had done 200k miles and none of them had worn gudgeon pins.
 
aragorn said:
I didnt bother.

Unless they look totalled like tufftys were, i dont see any point.

I've stripped three engines including one that had siezed and one that had done 200k miles and none of them had worn gudgeon pins.
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Thanks, that settles it then. They appear to be a pain to order too as they aren't listed as a separate part on ETKA, they come with new pistons. Jason said that he can send some forms to Audi to get them separate but I'll save him the hassle ;)
 
Mine were ruined mate but I inspect every engine I do and mine were the first I had seen that bad...

Be interesting to see how much new pins would be I guess... I have a set of perfectly good S3 pistons but no pins :(

<tuffty/>
 
Hi Westy,

Just had a skim through the thread. Excellent stuff and an interesting read. A real labour of love has gone into this. I didn't realise you were the person behind the order! We do usually have stock of the standard IE rods, however the rifle drilled rods are special order. I can assure you we ordered your rods with IE the very same day that you placed the order with us on the 27th of Jan. I can only extend IE's apologies for the delay, but you won’t be disappointed when they arrive.
 
Backdraft Motorsport said:
Hi Westy,

Just had a skim through the thread. Excellent stuff and an interesting read. A real labour of love has gone into this. I didn't realise you were the person behind the order! We do usually have stock of the standard IE rods, however the rifle drilled rods are special order. I can assure you we ordered your rods with IE the very same day that you placed the order with us on the 27th of Jan. I can only extend IE's apologies for the delay, but you won’t be disappointed when they arrive.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments and reassurance Steve. I ordered them nice and early in case there was any kind of delay as I had heard about others waiting long times for rods from IE.
 
Removed my phenolic gasket tonight so I can start porting one side to match the large port head.

Here you can see just how much larger I need to port it:

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I also fitted my TFSI coils so it'll be nice to see how they go over the next few weeks.
 
I collected my refurbed cylinder head on Saturday so here's a few pics:

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Has anyone got any procedures for cleaning a cylinder head before install? There are a few bits of swarf and filings floating about.

Also when I get this engine all built up is there any running period needed due to the head refurb? Should I use some different oil for running in before filling it with 5w40 platinum?
 
Righty... forgot (as ususal) when I got home last night but...

Cleaning wise I would pull the followers out (number them if you plan to reuse and I use the suction cup of a valve lapping tool or a blob of blue tac would do as long as you wipe the residue off afterwards) and then rinse through with brake cleaner or clean water from a hose checking for obvious signs of swarf etc... then airline to blow dry or try to remove as much water residue as poss to prevent corrosion... once done spray a light coating of wd40 or similar over the steel components to protect them...

When you build the head using your cams etc I would advise using an engine assembly lube rather than oil as it sticks better for initial startup and while its sat waiting for it to be fitted... keep the followers out until you are ready to do the build

If you think the followers in the replacement head are ok then there is no reason not to use them but I would inspect these and the ones on your BAM head to see if either are worn...

As you are replacing rings and shizzle then I would be tempted to use a mineral or semi synth oil to do the initial running in then dump it for fully synth... I used 10W40 semi synth when I did my rings but I also did some running in on the dyno as well as 400/500 miles on that oil before dumping it and the filter for 5w40 fully synth and a new filter..

This was me of course... Aragorn ran in his a little while back but his process was a little more involved than how I did mine... rings will need some pressure behind them to run in :)

<tuffty/>
 
I'm not doing the rings mate. Hoping that the pistons and rings are in ok shape. Do I still need to run with semi synth oil if I dont do the rings?

Also, is there any recommended amount of miles I should do to run in the head?
 
Ah, ok... no real need to run in a head tbh... if you build with engine assembly lube then I would be tempted to drop the oil sooner rather than later especially if you plan to take to the track...

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Ah, ok... no real need to run in a head tbh... if you build with engine assembly lube then I would be tempted to drop the oil sooner rather than later especially if you plan to take to the track...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Cheers for the info mate. Man of your word as always :thumbsup:

1 last question. What are the signs of wear and tear on the followers? I would like to think that the head place would have mentioned any wear to me when they refurbed it. Also I'd expect my BAM followers would have taken a lot more of a beating then the ones from this Passatt AEB head but you never know.
 
They normally wear in the middle... sometimes the case hardening goes and the cams start to dig a groove in the middle... circular 'marks' tend to be fine as the followers will turn around under normal operation... its not a massively common problem tbh and as long as the AEB head was in fairly good shape then I can't see it being an issue... just worth looking anyway to be sure...

Only other problem is they can go sticky but again if everything looked clean then I can't see a prob... I ended up fitting new ones on mine as I was chasing a rattle that turned out to be the small ends (DOH!)... 2 heads, oil pump and a set of followers that cost me lol...

<tuffty/>
 
also check springs are seated..
rotate head a few times once assembled off the car to be sure all rotates freely and nothing binds etc
 
So as I'm not doing the rings, how many miles roughly shall I run it on semi synthetic before changing the oil to the good stuff? I'm guessing it'll be good to flush any little bits that have found their way into the oil channels.
 
Couple of hundred tops I would imagine... can't remember what I did the first time I changed mine... I think I ran 10w40 for a bit then droppped it but can't remember how long it was in there for..

<tuffty/>
 
Why arent you doing the rings?

IMO its a really crappy idea to take it all apart and not replace them for what they cost (about £80 for the set)

Why on earth would you goto the effort your going to, and distrub everything, then refit some skanky 12 year old rings?
 
aragorn said:
Why arent you doing the rings?

IMO its a really crappy idea to take it all apart and not replace them for what they cost (about £80 for the set)

Why on earth would you goto the effort your going to, and distrub everything, then refit some skanky 12 year old rings?
Click to expand...

The plan was to only replace them if necessary. I was going to inspect them when I get the pistons out.

You do have a point and I suppose I should really get new rings considering everything else is being done. I feel reasonably confident with most jobs in this build but gapping the rings isn't one of them.
 
Here's a question: If replacing rings should you rehone the bores too? Do you run the risk of glazing by putting fresh rings in a polished worn bore? I was under the impression that the cross hatched honing and new rings ran in together?

I've built engines before, but always on a fresh rebore with new pistons and rings, I've never changed rings in an existing engine.
 
Prawn said:
Here's a question: If replacing rings should you rehone the bores too? Do you run the risk of glazing by putting fresh rings in a polished worn bore? I was under the impression that the cross hatched honing and new rings ran in together?

I've built engines before, but always on a fresh rebore with new pistons and rings, I've never changed rings in an existing engine.
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Ahh yes, now you've reminded me why I wasn't going to do the rings. I remember seeing a youtube guide and you should hone the bores first.
 
So hone them, its not exactly difficult man!

I've got a 1.8T sized flexhone you can borrow if you want to use that method.

When i rebuilt the Sheds motor i had the machine shop hone the bores, but i did the TT engine using the flexhone and the bore finish was pretty much the same.

I found the slight bore wear on both engines meant the rings didnt need gapped, they were all within spec streight out the packet.
 
Prawn said:
Here's a question: If replacing rings should you rehone the bores too? Do you run the risk of glazing by putting fresh rings in a polished worn bore? I was under the impression that the cross hatched honing and new rings ran in together?

I've built engines before, but always on a fresh rebore with new pistons and rings, I've never changed rings in an existing engine.
Click to expand...

Westy said:
Ahh yes, now you've reminded me why I wasn't going to do the rings. I remember seeing a youtube guide and you should hone the bores first.
Click to expand...

Yes you should and the link to that set of 'engine build' videos is in my build thread from when I did my rings at christmas...

<tuffty/>
 
aragorn said:
So hone them, its not exactly difficult man!

I've got a 1.8T sized flexhone you can borrow if you want to use that method.

When i rebuilt the Sheds motor i had the machine shop hone the bores, but i did the TT engine using the flexhone and the bore finish was pretty much the same.

I found the slight bore wear on both engines meant the rings didnt need gapped, they were all within spec streight out the packet.
Click to expand...

I may take you up on your offer then. I'm guessing it attaches to a drill?

Also do these rings look ok?

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
 
audi upgrades
Oh yeah... and make sure you cover the crank journals so the crud doesn't get on them and watch the oil squirters!!!

<tuffty/>
 
Westy said:
I may take you up on your offer then. I'm guessing it attaches to a drill?

Also do these rings look ok?

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
Click to expand...

While they state they may send Mahle (the OEM make of the VAG pistons) I am still a little dubious about them... tbh... VAG ones may be a safer bet... but they are not the cheapest...

<tuffty/>
 
Now my system is up i can qoute properly lol.

4 sets inc vat with the usual discount comes to £118.68.
 
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