ECS Race N75 valve?

Steveo_A3_1.8t

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anybody using one of these?

ECS Tuning VAG 1.8T Race N75 Frequency Valve - ES#122 | eBay

im pretty sure i need a new N75 valve and just wondering if this is a good idea rather than a standard one??

my car is a 2002 AUM with a remap, obviously the car is used on the road everyday for work, so it would need to work well under normal driving conditions, any info would be great.

Steve
 
Nope... this has been discussed to death... fit a std valve if you need one but I would be tempted to diagnose your problem properly before just buying a new N75.. they don't go wrong often and the 'problems' people experience that makes them think the N75 is faulty rarely turns out to be due to the N75..

What issues are you having that makes you think you need a new N75?

<tuffty/>
 
righto, im experiencing good initial boost then a slight fluctuation 1 or 2 times throughout rev range. i have recently done a boost leak test with a compressor up to 25psi and there were no leaks. checked re-circ valve (forge007p) and its working fine. vagcom isnt showing any fault codes. i was hoping to borrow a n75 to check out of curiousity but there is nobody near me.

have you any ideas??

cheers

steve
 
Borrow one first and see how it goes.. needs logging really to see whats going on... any fault codes?

<tuffty/>
 
no fault codes a week ago but maybe showing some now who knows. i know how to log data on vagcom, but what measuring blocks shall i measure and what am i looking for??

Ta
 
003, 020 and 115 initially...

Not sure what to look for as yet but need to start some where...

<tuffty/>
 
003, 020 and 115 initially...

Not sure what to look for as yet but need to start some where...

<tuffty/>

ran the log on those blocks, but i cant work out how to get the data from exel to this thread without it all being jumbled up!! its late and im loosing my rag with it lol!

one thing i have noticed is my car will only come up to temperature if im in traffic, otherwise it will only go to about 60-70 degrees. which i would presume is a water temp sender or most likely the thermostat. could this be causing any fluctuations in boost delivery??

Ta
 
Freeze the rows where the column headings are then scroll down to a run and take a screen shot or use the snipping tool in Win7..

Upload to your favourite picture host and display in a post thus...

Log-01-003-020-11820110526_2216.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
What fuel are you using? lot of timing pull... you do those in second gear? best to use third for road logging... better resolution... start from 2k rpm...

Difficult to see exactly whats going on... actual boost is following request it appears but without a longer run its a tricky one to see anything definitive.... airflow looks good though...

Also log blocks 003, 031, 115 and check block 032 after the runs (no need to log just make a note of the values while the engine is idling)

<tuffty/>
 
Im using normal 95 ron unleaded. That was second gear, I'll log some 3rd gears tomorrow. The problem only happens 3 out of 5 times i reckon, when I go full throttle, you can just here turbo note change and power drops slightly. Other times it's pulls very well through the whole rev range.

Like I say I'll get them logs done tomorrow. My TIP is a standard one and it does feel quite soft, it wouldn't be that collapsing would it?

Thanks for your help.

Steve
 
runs in third,

the first run has a small hiccup due to the traction controll (that i forgot to turn off) kicked in over the top of a bridge, can be seen in rows 229 and 230

blocks 003,020,115



blocks 003,031,115



block 032 on idle post runs

idle O2 adapt 1.7%
Run O2 adapt -16.4% (sounds rich to me??)

Thanks in advance

Steve
 
Will have a proper look later when I have 5 mins but if its taking out 16% fuel then I suspect you have a boost leak

Smoke test FTW...

<tuffty/>
 
ta, is a smoke test DIY able? ill do another boost leak test with the compressor, maybe i missed something. as the car is AUM code the chargepipe has the 'C' clip assembly and that has become dislodged.

steve
 
ta, is a smoke test DIY able? ill do another boost leak test with the compressor, maybe i missed something. as the car is AUM code the chargepipe has the 'C' clip assembly and that has become dislodged.

steve

It is if you have the £600 worth of kit to do it with :)

Don't use a compressor on the intake side... too high a pressure can do damage... most decent garages should have smoke test facilities... they work really well :)



<tuffty/>
 
Last edited by a moderator:
heading that way... should be obvious with a smoke test tbh...

<tuffty/>

Hello again!! Lol
Since we last spoke I have fitted a boost gauge to monito vac and boost leaks. The car peaks at 20psi and settles about 18psi. It idles at 20hg vac. Is this about right?? Also my number 2 coil pack packed up today, that couldn't have been related to my probs could it?? Cheers for all your input mate.
 
Hello again!! Lol
Since we last spoke I have fitted a boost gauge to monito vac and boost leaks. The car peaks at 20psi and settles about 18psi. It idles at 20hg vac. Is this about right?? Also my number 2 coil pack packed up today, that couldn't have been related to my probs could it?? Cheers for all your input mate.

Boost sounds ok but its subjective at best as different remaps have different boost levels... still could be leaking even if making 30psi... boost is not airflow...

Still worth getting a leak test tbh... I had mine done and was surprised to see I had a leak from where the TIP connected to the turbo and I have been over mine several times tightening stuff...

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah I still plan on getting it tested.

Also before when you looked at my logs you said it had alot of timing pull. Is this map related or is it another problem?
 
Yeah I still plan on getting it tested.

Also before when you looked at my logs you said it had alot of timing pull. Is this map related or is it another problem?

It will be map related if the map is asking for more timing than the engine can handle but typically this isn't the case unless you have a Revo thats had the timing turned right up...

Timing pull is a result of knock detection generally.. other factors are considered such as intake air temps but typically this happens when a map thats designed to use 98 ron or higher octane fuel is being run on 95 ron fuel (which is typical these days as petrol gets more expensive)... could be due to the engine breathing heavy and there being oil in the charge air diluting the octane of the fuel even if running 98 ron or greater...

<tuffty/>
 
It will be map related if the map is asking for more timing than the engine can handle but typically this isn't the case unless you have a Revo thats had the timing turned right up...

Timing pull is a result of knock detection generally.. other factors are considered such as intake air temps but typically this happens when a map thats designed to use 98 ron or higher octane fuel is being run on 95 ron fuel (which is typical these days as petrol gets more expensive)... could be due to the engine breathing heavy and there being oil in the charge air diluting the octane of the fuel even if running 98 ron or greater...

<tuffty/>

I see, when I done those logs for you to look at, the car wasn't reaching full temp, sat at around 70degrees. So I fitted a new stat yesterday. I got in car this morning and the coil pack went!! But came up to temp as it should. I've just fitted the coil pack reset fault codes and went for a drive and I must say car feels alot better pulls well with no weird fluctuations in the boost. Maybe it was a combination of the coil pack and lower operating temperature? Anyway I'll log the data again and compare with the last lot.

Steve
 

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