When to remap the S3? just hit 1k

RedDejavu

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Just over 1000 miles. Is it ok to start looking around for a remap yet? Got two in mind Revo or Shark both seems good but still not sure due to fact of common hesitation. Anyone heard from Warren testing Revo stg1 with any issues? Cheers!
 
The hesitation thing seems to be quite car specific,and farmore have no problems than get them.
Your car is basically new,and the engine will probably loosen up a bit still over the next few thousand miles,but there is no reason why it shouldn't be mapped.....my choice would be Revo.
 
Have to say once i got some decent plugs fitted i didnt have any more problems after the revo map so that rather points to a plug issue and not a revo issue. I had mine done a 2k miles and i would say it peaked performance at about 4k miles a it loosened up.
Revo stg 1 added 10% to insurance, knocked a couple of MPG off but still getting 30mpg. You do need a SPS switch if you want to tone it down for services back at Audi but then you need it to fine tune the map because as its supplied its a bit "safe"....TBH you are never going to fool Audi because just the fart from the DV gives the game away instantly when you change gear :)
 
i'd go and spend another £300 on fuel and get another 1000 miles done

drive the car like you stole it (once warmed up obviously), because if there are any hidden problems with the car, audi will not fix it under warranty due to the car having a map....
 
Have to say once i got some decent plugs fitted i didnt have any more problems after the revo map so that rather points to a plug issue and not a revo issue. I had mine done a 2k miles and i would say it peaked performance at about 4k miles a it loosened up.Revo stg 1 added 10% to insurance, knocked a couple of MPG off but still getting 30mpg. You do need a SPS switch if you want to tone it down for services back at Audi but then you need it to fine tune the map because as its supplied its a bit "safe"....TBH you are never going to fool Audi because just the fart from the DV gives the game away instantly when you change gear :)
I don't think the local dealers are too bothered,and mine said that more than one of their own employees have their cars mapped......it does get amusing around service time,as they all start looking around to see what's been done.
I don't think the corporate side is so reasonable though.
 
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i'd go and spend another £300 on fuel and get another 1000 miles done

drive the car like you stole it (once warmed up obviously), because if there are any hidden problems with the car, audi will not fix it under warranty due to the car having a map....

Started to put my foot down properly for few days now and its really nice but god I want more power now:]. Surely can tell that it fells restricted a lot indeed. Although might keep it running in for next 1k as you advise and then start making changes. Dont want to end up with broken S-tronic gearbox and no warranty:slapped:.


Cheers all for quick and solid replies!
 
The flywheel clutch can't take it! REALLY!

On my 2002 S3: I had a Custom Code re-map which was ok for a time (1000 miles), but then clutch slip appeared and then got worse, and worse and then much worse, slipping in 4th, even under light load.

I had Audi Stafford do a clutch swap. The objective assessment of the original 60,000 mile clutch plate was that the clutch friction plate and flywheel was ok, and I had to agree, no problem at all with the plate and/or flywheel. The characteristics of the re-map were the issue.

I had a NEW clutch fitted and sold the S3. I wanted fault-free acceleration.

So I’ve purchased an RS3; this has a suitably designed drive-train and the problem has gone.

ANSWER: buy a car designed to provide the acceleration you’re after. Modifying, in the long run, is money wasted.
 
loads of people have a mapped 8l s3 with no clutch problems...... infact go in the 8l section and ask! your statement may have been true for you, but in my opinion your car must have had a problem elsewhere, even i had a map on a 8l s3 and i had no problems with the clutch whatsoever and i did around 18,000 miles in it

it seems to me that the audi mechanics did not know what they were doing and fobbed you off, could have easily been something liek a faulty slave / master cylinder or even a build up of crap in the hydrolics (trust me, if you do not bleed the clutch it gets gunky in that area)
 
The flywheel clutch can't take it! REALLY!

On my 2002 S3: I had a Custom Code re-map which was ok for a time (1000 miles), but then clutch slip appeared and then got worse, and worse and then much worse, slipping in 4th, even under light load.

I had Audi Stafford do a clutch swap. The objective assessment of the original 60,000 mile clutch plate was that the clutch friction plate and flywheel was ok, and I had to agree, no problem at all with the plate and/or flywheel. The characteristics of the re-map were the issue.

I had a NEW clutch fitted and sold the S3. I wanted fault-free acceleration.

So I’ve purchased an RS3; this has a suitably designed drive-train and the problem has gone.

ANSWER: buy a car designed to provide the acceleration you’re after. Modifying, in the long run, is money wasted.

Very helpful thanks.
So you traded in your£4k S3 for a £40k RS3...problem solved
 
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As if we can all just pop out and buy an RS3 rather than spending money gradually to improve our lowly S3's ?!

No problem with remapping now as you can still run the car in gradually if this is your preferred method, at the end of the day the car is only as fast as your right foot so treat it accordingly.

I mapped this car when I bought it first time around at 65 miles but didn't open it up for a while.

As other posters have said, the cars with hesitation issues are in the minority so go ahead and enjoy the car as it should have been direct from Audi :)
 
The flywheel clutch can't take it! REALLY!

On my 2002 S3: I had a Custom Code re-map which was ok for a time (1000 miles), but then clutch slip appeared and then got worse, and worse and then much worse, slipping in 4th, even under light load.

I had Audi Stafford do a clutch swap. The objective assessment of the original 60,000 mile clutch plate was that the clutch friction plate and flywheel was ok, and I had to agree, no problem at all with the plate and/or flywheel. The characteristics of the re-map were the issue.

I had a NEW clutch fitted and sold the S3. I wanted fault-free acceleration.

So I’ve purchased an RS3; this has a suitably designed drive-train and the problem has gone.

ANSWER: buy a car designed to provide the acceleration you’re after. Modifying, in the long run, is money wasted.

The OPs car is an 8P not 8l.
The OPs car is S-Tronic not manual and therefore no conventional clutch/flywheel arrangement.

Well done on the RS3, but I dont see how any of what you typed helps the OP??
 
The hesitation issues were Revo revision 9 related on late S3's 2010, and then other issues are spark plugs on later S3's, though this could be on all remapped cars as well as unmapped. If I had the choice again I would not get Revo.
It makes no difference when you remap the car after the initial run in period, as you the driver determines how hard you drive it.

Regarding the RS3 poster, seems like someone does not like the fact they spent so much money on an RS3 to have a remapped S3 up ya backside, I am guessing a stage 2+ S3 would be pretty close to being on an RS3's heels.

I do feel the S3 is de-tuned, and needs a remap bad.

Regarding the Warranty, down to the dealer really at first, but if Audi HQ get a wiff on a serious warranty issue you got no chance, but Some dealers do repair them under warranty knowing it is remapped, the only way they do know is to drive them, so having a switch is worth it just for the time you may have to spend getting it switched off if it needs to be connected to the Audi Network, and back on again after you get the car back.
 
Given the relative weights,a Stg2+ S3 would be all over a stock RS3 and should be.

I think the point about modifying an S3 vs buying an RS3 is going to be personal taste(do you want a 3 door or a 5 door etc) and also the fact that for the price of an RS3, you can have an S3 that goes as fast if not faster.

It's all personal choice.

I didn't want a slightly overweight 5 door hatch so I stuck with the S3.
 
but then a remapped rs3 would be all over the stage 2 s3...... lol
 
It would be interesting S3Alex, remembering an RS3 is DSG, and actually a lot quicker than the book gives it, hitting 60 sub 4 secs in the right conditions and driver, anyone ever timed an S3 hitting 60 sub 4 secs?
 
TBH once you are down to the 4sec 0-60 its not going to make any difference on the road. You might build a lead over laps on a track but thats not where i drive. I agree with Alex its down to aesthetics, like do you need an estate car because lets face it, if you dont you would do a lot better with a TTRS.
People slammed my old V6 because of all the weight up front but dont forget the 5cy weighs more with its Turbo and intercoolers etc.


 
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After today I decided to hold of for a bit with the remap and let myself know the car better and learn how to deal with the power wisely after I nearly crashed into some f***ing idiot cutting me across on a roundabout when he pulled out from junction getting onto my lane. Ok I wasnt driving slow as I just put foot down a little bit to see how it grips and hence he didnt see me I assume but still makes me think what if I have had more power:]. Probably would ram into him badly smashing front end to the bits and got killed by my missus afterwards:faint:. Need to calm down that for sure and have proper sleep now:p.
 
Paddy -

Think I might have asked you this a while back but is the NGK PFR7S8EG plugs you are running now? Do you know what you had fitted from factory?


Thanks,
Andy
 
It would be interesting S3Alex, remembering an RS3 is DSG, and actually a lot quicker than the book gives it, hitting 60 sub 4 secs in the right conditions and driver, anyone ever timed an S3 hitting 60 sub 4 secs?
There are a few,and there will certainly be a few at the Inters this year,including a 600bhp Golf R and some other interesting cars.
Don't forget there are a good number of 500bhp+ S3's around,but as yet,very few TT-RS or RS3's hitting those figures,and in both cases,it means a big turbo and a lot of work......for all intents and purposes at certain price levels(i.e.cost of car plus mods)the 2 cars are quite well matched,but the potential for the 2.5L engine,once the problems are solved,is obviously better.
 
but then a remapped rs3 would be all over the stage 2 s3...... lol
Comes down to power/weight ratio.....the S3 weighs about 1500kg and the RS3 is a bit heavier at 1600kgs......now,most Stg2+ S3s run 360bhp giving around 240bhp/tonne,and most Stg1 RS3s run around 400bhp,which is about 250bhp/tonne.
Yes,it will have it,but not by a slaughtering margin.
 
i spoke to a garage because i am thinking of getting my a4 done and i said well i have not done much miles he said it wouldn't matter but i think the remap will work better after a few k miles when the engine is more bedded in, recommended revo though.
 
After today I decided to hold of for a bit with the remap and let myself know the car better and learn how to deal with the power wisely after I nearly crashed into some f***ing idiot cutting me across on a roundabout when he pulled out from junction getting onto my lane. Ok I wasnt driving slow as I just put foot down a little bit to see how it grips and hence he didnt see me I assume but still makes me think what if I have had more power:]. Probably would ram into him badly smashing front end to the bits and got killed by my missus afterwards:faint:. Need to calm down that for sure and have proper sleep now:p.

The Joys of DSG, it does take a bit of getting used to from a standing start, and can quite easily get you into as lot of trouble, Another driver sees you waiting and thinks you are not going to pull out in front, and stops looking at you, DSg lags like hell and then you press harder and all of a sudden you are up there Back Side, I try and get in a position to let it creep.
 
can you really get 360 bhp out of an s3 without any major changes? seems a bit optimistic to me, a stage one map gives you around 300 bhp, so not sure how changing the exhaust, airfilter and downpipes would give you 360 bhp ?
 
can you really get 360 bhp out of an s3 without any major changes? seems a bit optimistic to me, a stage one map gives you around 300 bhp, so not sure how changing the exhaust, airfilter and downpipes would give you 360 bhp ?
Results vary according to the rolling road lottery and individual cars,but the overall results seem to be as follows:
Stg1 gives you around 310bhp.
Stg2 around 330-360bhp,but with a significant mid-range torque dip due to HPFP fuelling limitation.
Stg2+ will give around 360-370bhp,but removes the torque issue with the HPFP upgrade.
So in terms of major changes,no,but the entire collection of exhaust,filter and HPFP plus mapping is going to come to the thick end of £2k.....for a pretty quick car.
 
Results vary according to the rolling road lottery and individual cars,but the overall results seem to be as follows:
Stg1 gives you around 310bhp.
Stg2 around 330-360bhp,but with a significant mid-range torque dip due to HPFP fuelling limitation.
Stg2+ will give around 360-370bhp,but removes the torque issue with the HPFP upgrade.
So in terms of major changes,no,but the entire collection of exhaust,filter and HPFP plus mapping is going to come to the thick end of £2k.....for a pretty quick car.

Alex I hate you:lmfao:! You've made me think about going stage 2+ now :/ Bye bye holidays this year LOL!


PS: this morning again some Tw** cut across my way forcing me to nearly stop. Do people in my town really drive like a bunch of muppets? Will blame Christmas for this for now;)
 
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Thank you!

Always my pleasure to drag others onto the path to engine heaven.
 
Tbh this would be the best option, just get all the parts first and then jump on STG2/STG2+. Saves money and gives massive difference!

Definitely.

Put aside the cash and do it in one go,but be sure to do the suspension as well.
 
Would ARBs be enough or do coilovers too?
If you have the money.....coilovers.....I chose kW v3,but the Bilsteins are as good.
If you don't what you're left with is something that goes pretty well in straight lines,but handles badly,as the stock suspension is pretty squishy.
What I did was to get Stg1 done,and then do the suspension before Stg2+,and around that time also got the brakes done.
 
I went straight to stag 2+, but I had done it on 2 other K04 2.0t so knew what to expect and had the parts. The only suspension upgrade I did was front and rear arbs from H&R which drastically reduced the understeer, I was happy with ride and height as also my daily driver. Well worth planning a brake upgrade at this level as the car will be seriously quick.

I'd consider an RS3 at some point as I have 2 young kids but would have a preference for the TTRS as far better looking.

The S3 is in my opinion crying out for at least a stage 1 which is also the stealthy option, it is also by far the best car for the money at this level offering luxury, practicality and a high level of fun once breathed on - a map or better brakes can't help you with the Numpties on our roads though - just keep em peeled :) You can go from feeling seriously cool to seriously stupid if you are standing next to your expensive crumpled car - a time and a place for testing the limits of you and your car, a traffic island was'nt the best place Dude
 
I think the S3,like the RS3,is a car that in stock form,is crying out for more power,and even the Stg1 remap for the S3 goes a long way to lift it from being brisk,to what it should have been.
The brakes are adequate for Stg1,but once the power is upped again to 360bhp or more,their shortcomings are pretty obvious,and the things weigh a huge amount as well,but even with ARB's fitted,there is a large amount of understeer left,and coilovers will go some way to getting rid of it,as will a Haldex controller,which is also useful once the power goes up.
 
The only thing that stops me from getting stage 2+ is good bye to OEM look and I'm not big fan of noisy exhausts (I mean ridicules loud)/intakes for example ITG looks like made in a shed tbh not sure about the noise though. Do you guys know Milltek resonated/non resonated is much louder than stock exhaust? I mean Full TBE system of course.
 
The only thing that stops me from getting stage 2+ is good bye to OEM look and I'm not big fan of noisy exhausts (I mean ridicules loud)/intakes for example ITG looks like made in a shed tbh not sure about the noise though. Do you guys know Milltek resonated/non resonated is much louder than stock exhaust? I mean Full TBE system of course.
I have a sort of bastardised resonated system on mine due to all the other mods on the car.
The resonated is pretty quiet at normal throttle openings and really not a whole lot louder than the stock system at full throttle.
Don't be fooled by looking at the ITG from pictures......it's very well made,and a lot of work has gone into making it work very well indeed.....whether due to other things on mine like the bigger turbo,the ITG is actually quieter than the previous Forge system,and is good for a lot more than Stg2+.
 
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Alex you stir my mind in the wrong direction:]. Seriously haha!
When I bought mine,it was just going to be another Audi I kept for a year and chopped in for another....now look at it...!
 
As Alex says the S3 doesn't have to be loud at stage 2+.

Go for a resonated Milltek, hang fire on the ITG as they are using my car this month to develop a closed/quiet system so when one I'll post my findings, ITG have recognised there is a market for quieter tuned cars, there is a small chance the power may be slightly down but not by a great margin - some would say worth the sacrifice for a stealthy, quick car.

I'm after a quiet, understated car this time around hence the above, my new signature aims to be "Arrive quietly, leave quickly.."
 
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When I bought mine,it was just going to be another Audi I kept for a year and chopped in for another....now look at it...!

Its very addictive indeed and now being convinced by yourself I start putting money on a side and getting parts ready for Stage 2/2+ within 2-3 months. No holidays for life looks of it:p