hi all just wondered if anyone can shed some light on my mates prob ive serched the threds for some one that mite have had the same probs but no luck, it a apy 2000 but with esp but dosnt seem to have a fuse in the car for the heldex, basickly it dosent work at and it has no faults showing, it didnt have an earth strap so one was put on and the plug at the back was clean, i was thinking controler? but wouldnt that bring up a code? it will show lo on the vagcom when the ignisihon is on then hi when the car is started, when it primes should it sound sort of like a fuel pump sounding or just a very small quiet electronic noise? (sorry about spelling im s**t i know lol)
haldex prob
- Thread starter S3Zek
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Alright Zek, my 99 APY S3 doesn't have a fused Haldex, but my 2000APY with ESP that I sold to Gops definitely had a fused Haldex! Off the top of my head, it's fuse31, though I could be a mile out.
for beer money of corse 
My light was on constantly. I never had mind on vagcom but it should throw up a code for the controller but not 100% sure. Worth checking the connections with the contrOller first before replacing.
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I think it threw up 'No comms to Haldex' on scan Gops, or nothing at all on your car.
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Ignition needs to be on to communicate to any module in VCDS...
If it can't talk to the haldex its not going to show any faults as the faults are held in the controllers memory IIRC
<tuffty/>
i guessed that would be the case i just tried it out of curiosity, im new to playing with the vcds
lol
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The haldex can be tested with VCDS but I don't know the details of how... one of the yank forums may have some info as its the same for TT's and R32's...
<tuffty/>
hi, i got the same problem..looking to swap the control...is it easy to do...my garage reckon they would have to drop the diff to get to it!!..i thought it was just two bolts? any help appreciated
cheers
rich
cheers
rich
I done my controller on the driveway with no ramps or even jacking it up, it's a bit of a pain in the *** but not difficult. You don't need to drop the diff! In fact if I remember correctly you can get straight at it mate
Same as S3Hoggy, I did mine on the drive, super easy process, admittedly its a bit fiddly at times doing it on your back with only a few inches of clearence tho, best advice is to wear something to cover your eyes as you'll get a lot of crap in them!!!
To check your pump
Check the electrical plug is ok, its behind a little shield on the rear diff.
If there oil in the plug, your seals on the pump have gone.
New pump time, some guy on the bay sells refurbs for 120 plus postage although he hasnt got any at the moment.
Volvo use the same kinda pump, thinks its called the dem on there cars.
read this excellent write up about the pre charge pump VWVortex.com - Haldex pre-charge pump removal / disassembly PIC HEAVY
Check the electrical plug is ok, its behind a little shield on the rear diff.
If there oil in the plug, your seals on the pump have gone.
New pump time, some guy on the bay sells refurbs for 120 plus postage although he hasnt got any at the moment.
Volvo use the same kinda pump, thinks its called the dem on there cars.
read this excellent write up about the pre charge pump VWVortex.com - Haldex pre-charge pump removal / disassembly PIC HEAVY
good news..thanks fellas....on the lookout for a control now then gonna hard wire it in...take the plug out the equation
cheers
cheers
on the subject of the control my car is a 210 APY does the replacement unit have to come from the same year and engine model and would it need coding .or is it a straight swap.
thanks again
rich
thanks again
rich
Only thing to watch out for when buying a replacment is ESP, if yours doesn't have it then you've got to buy one from another car that doesn't and vice versa... Other than that theres no coding or anything like that, just an oil and filter change
If you do go down the pump route if the controler dosnt fix it I did find that I had to remove the bolts on the prop at the back then leaver it out the way a little to help get the pump out on my mates one, also don't forget to get a replacement gasket as his was split when the pump was removed, Pump did fix the prob in his case in the end and works spot on.
S3Zek, was reading your earlier posts and it wasn't clear when you were doing the output tests on the pump which sound was correct.
What is the correct result when the pump output test : Should there be a buzzing sound, a clonk or no sound ?
I'm sure years ago when i did the test it made a noticeable buzzing sound and thought that was correct action. Nowadays when i do the test there's just a faint single clunk noise ?
Even though mine is the later model , I am hoping they work in principle the same.
What is the correct result when the pump output test : Should there be a buzzing sound, a clonk or no sound ?
I'm sure years ago when i did the test it made a noticeable buzzing sound and thought that was correct action. Nowadays when i do the test there's just a faint single clunk noise ?
Even though mine is the later model , I am hoping they work in principle the same.
Yeah it should buzz a bit like a fuel pump but not quite as fast, if you have just a clonk then I would say its the pump like his was, my mates one would just make a clonk when you told it to engage and then again sometimes when it was told to release.
