S3 8L Haldex Issues - Driving like a solid rear diff!

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Jas Lad

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Hi Guys looking for some advice.

Basically bought an 2003 S3 8L, first thing I noticed was it was able to spin the front wheels, leading me to believe theres a haldex issue.

Checked No31 fuse - Perfect
Checked Earth Strap on diff - Broken - Now fixed
Check wiring - the small stuff cable that goes in 90 degree bends I believe plugs into the haldex pump was disconnected - I connected

Now the car drives like it has a fully locked rear LSD, no more wheel spinning but it scrabbles stones etc when doing 3 point turns, or on full lock driving slowly. Obviously the rear diff shouldnt do this.

Got the car VAGCOM read and showed an intermitent fault with Haldex but not the controller.

Where do I go from here? I have ordered new haldex oil and filter in the hope that its dirty oil causing the clutch plates to bind?

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks
 
Ok small update, went to a carpark and drove in circles, sure as the rear end is scrabbling for grip, however tried the handbrake test and pulled it up one nick, haldex disengaged!

Is this pointing towards the control unit?
 
This sounds like the haldex clutch pack has seized.... a few others have had this experience too... this is typically because the oil and filter for the haldex isn't changed regularly and the plates stick together...

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/135545-haldex-fualt-code.html

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/134712-haldex-problem.html

A search will have picked these threads up...

Maybe an oil and filter change might help.... either that or replacement haldex unit...

<tuffty/>
 
Can anyone tell me would an 01 VW Golf 4motion's Haldex Controller be the same as my S3 8l?
 
<tuffty/> said:
This sounds like the haldex clutch pack has seized.... a few others have had this experience too... this is typically because the oil and filter for the haldex isn't changed regularly and the plates stick together...

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/135545-haldex-fualt-code.html

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/134712-haldex-problem.html

A search will have picked these threads up...

Maybe an oil and filter change might help.... either that or replacement haldex unit...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

See I initially thought this too, but if the clutch has seized how come when I pull the handbrake it is able to disengage it automatically?
 
Jas Lad said:
See I initially thought this too, but if the clutch has seized how come when I pull the handbrake it is able to disengage it automatically?
Click to expand...

Under normal conditions the haldex isn't engaged anyway... the car is essentially front wheel drive... the sticking haldex plates could be causing drag on the rear diff... beyond that I have no answer but the car low speed manovoures are not sufficient to engage the haldex so I suspect its the plates sticking and not the controller... if the controller wasn't working then you would not have rear drive...

<tuffty/>
 
So you think give the oil a change first and after that try a new haldex unit?
 
Jas Lad said:
So you think give the oil a change first and after that try a new haldex unit?
Click to expand...

Oil change won't hurt... I doubt it will be an instant fix and you may have to change the oil again in a 1000 miles or so if its that bad as it will get contaminated with the cruddy stuff thats been left behind...

<tuffty/>
 
Mine wont engage at all and it's the intermittent mechanical fault code I get too so hopefully an oil and filter change fixes it. If not new haldex unit time. Why didn't they just make it proper Quattro like the a4 etc? So much more relliable.
 
Does changing the haldex oil also change the rear diff oil or are they separate?
 
With the ammount of threads on here and other forums about haldex problems i wouldnt say its that reliable. They just over complicated things by using the haldex system if you ask me,whats wrong with a proper diff?
 
ian52 said:
With the ammount of threads on here and other forums about haldex problems i wouldnt say its that reliable. They just over complicated things by using the haldex system if you ask me,whats wrong with a proper diff?
Click to expand...

Haldex isn't a diff... its a clutch... there are benefits to using the haldex system rather than a full time torsion setup like 'proper' quattros (lol)

Haldex is a generally reliable piece of kit but needs regular servicing like anything else... on older cars that are now getting serviced by regular garages its easy to overlook a haldex service and this can overtime have a detrimental effect on its reliability...

My S3 has 114k on the clock but I have religiously serviced both the engine and haldex appropriately and is is still good in the world...

If you are capable its worth doing these services yourself as they are not difficult to do and the benefits are obvious... I drop my engine oil every 5/6k now and do the haldex oil every 10k or so....

A lot cheaper than replacing the haldex unit for sure...

...and lets not forget that the Veyron uses Haldex clutches so if its good enough for a car costing over a squillion pounds then its good enough for my lowly S3...

<tuffty/>
 
Just did the haldex oil and filter change on my car. Bought the oil, filter and filter tool off ebay for about £50 took me about 40mins to do the actual change. The oil i took out was pretty dirty and had a few bits in it so am glad its been done as i think iots been a while and for the effort it took to do i cant see why its neglected.

Hopefully this should keep my 4wd going well ready for the winter
 
Its a terribly flawed system imo and tbh once I sell the car probably my last, never had any such problems on any M car subaru/evo...
 
But you did buy the car knowing that there was a problem with the 4WD system...? I'm sure that not maintaining any car component correctly will cause it to fail.
 
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I only found out after buying mine it didn't work. Got the oil and filter sat here. Just need the tool to get the filter out now.
 
If you need a replacement i have a perfect S3 diff/haldex set-up you can have for £150
 
ian52 said:
With the ammount of threads on here and other forums about haldex problems i wouldnt say its that reliable. They just over complicated things by using the haldex system if you ask me,whats wrong with a proper diff?
Click to expand...

The Haldex oil/filter servicing gets forgotten most of the time...
When I ask haldex owners the question re when was it last changed most dont know its even required!
 
Well when I took mine to the dealer for its last service, I had to suggest they did the haldex oil and filter. They wouldn't of bothered otherwise, even though it was in it's schedule. Maybe in an effort to be competitive, they just do the minimum
 
It's crazy. Just get them to change the oil/filter once a year, stamp the service book and leave. Then do the rest of the jobs yourself so you know they're done properly. It's not even as if the Haldex & filter is hard to do!
 
Can anyone tell me what haldex's/rear diffs i can use in a 02 S3?

Was told cars without ECP can't be used on mine as it has traction control etc? So there for would that rule out pre facelift S3's?

Or is it only the controller that causes the issue?
 
Just bought a 2002 41k S3 diff... hope it works!
 
I've always wondered does anyone actually believe advertisers when they state a a particular part has come off an XXX milegae car ? Unless you see the car with your own eyes and check the mileage when they take it off then surely the part will always be off a so-called low milegae car !
someone else had similar problem on the boards and replaced the whole unit and cured the problem........and others I've read...NOT.
 
New diff is in it, its ****ed too... making like an ABS pulsing vibration when doing 3 points etc.

Think its the controller so going to swop it for me old one, if that doesnt work guess its another diff and more money fitting/oils.
 
My haldex would occasionally lock, usually i'd notice when i'd park and it would go BANG after turning the ignition off and clunk the drivetrain from the back as the trasmission unwound. Only did it when the ignition was off so similar to yours, locked when powered but would happily unlock eventually. Don't forget when driving it's not 'open', it delivers 5% power the rear (or similar) probably to prevent drivetrain shunt by keeping the rear diff gears engaged in the forward direction.

Mine was solved with new oil / filter. I don't think it had been changed in 60k. I change it around every 10k and it stays quite sweet. It's not a hard job.
 
Guys its had a new diff and iv swopped the haldex controller from my "new" diff to me old one and its got worse again, all very similar problems, no faults showing on vagcom except this which comes and goes:

Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,22,35,37,45,54,55,56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 8N0 906 018 BH
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0001
Coding: 10710
Shop #: WSC 66565
WAUZZZ8LX21016331 AUZ7Z0A1987800
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0010 0001
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 8N0 907 379 E
Component: ESP 20 CAN V005
Coding: 18448
Shop #: WSC 01236
1 Fault Found:
01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Anyone any ideas??
 
Exactly what it says on the tin really... check the earth strap, the plug wiring etc... failing that its the controller...

<tuffty/>
 
Brand new earth strap fitted
Diff
Diff oil
Haldex filter
Haldex Controller/Unit (probably faulty controller)
Haldex Oil

A friend has a scrap v6 4motion and has very kindly allowed me to try his controller so going to give it a bash....
 
I put an older controller in my car as the differences between the designs of the two were visible! When you drive, is the ESP light constantly on? Have you jacked the car on all 4's to see what it's actually doing?
 
as I mentioned earlier....and some having replaced the controller and haldex still NOT fixed the problem. I have haerd of one person replacing the abs control unit and fixing the problem.

And...just in case you thought what else could could it be....well, as someone else has mentioned you also have the 2 sensors in the car and also the 4 at each wheel - ALL of which contribute to the working of the haldex unit !

I believe the haldex IS WORKING properly, it's just that something is telling it to engage at the wrong time.
 
Gops said:
I put an older controller in my car as the differences between the designs of the two were visible! When you drive, is the ESP light constantly on? Have you jacked the car on all 4's to see what it's actually doing?
Click to expand...

No ESP light, traction control can be turned on/off

All 4 wheels are def working, the problem is the rear is locked solid!
 
thegoal007 said:
as I mentioned earlier....and some having replaced the controller and haldex still NOT fixed the problem. I have haerd of one person replacing the abs control unit and fixing the problem.

And...just in case you thought what else could could it be....well, as someone else has mentioned you also have the 2 sensors in the car and also the 4 at each wheel - ALL of which contribute to the working of the haldex unit !

I believe the haldex IS WORKING properly, it's just that something is telling it to engage at the wrong time.
Click to expand...

Totally understand mate, but i checked with a snapon and vagcom ecu reader, all speed sensors are reading the exact same, steering angle etc also spot on, brake light and handbrake switchs work 110% too, no errors and on my tests show being engaged/disengaged.

ABS unit is a good shout. Big job replacing?
 
Okay another update.

Vagcom testing, section 22 AWD

Basically If I run the diag. test, to engage the pump I can hear it turn off and on as the test runs, good I think
Next clutch engage/disengage no problems

Now while testing, with the pump state in "hi" all I get is clunk clunk clunk, when disengaged and pump goes into "lo" state, the car does 3 point turns etc perfectly, no issues.

If I do a hard launch or hard circle it pushs the pump state into "hi" again producing the clunking and is thus stuck in "hi" untill I go into vagcom and tell it to cycle again.

So this is leading me to one of 2 things, the controller isnt capable of telling the pump the correct state to be in (I have just got a 110% working controller yet to fit) or the pump is getting stuck in "hi" although VAGCOM is able to tell it to go to "lo"

My money is on the controller? Although no errors are showing.
 
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