Inertia's S3 Upgrade Thread

porting is straight forward, and not uber work at all - slacker! lol

you dont have to take off the hotside if you take precautions, but taking it off will obviously keep filings away... but you can easily clean it out.
 
Work is continuing now. I had to have the manifold collector bolt holes drilled out with a 12mm Reemer (By my dad who is a precision engineer) so the turbo would bolt up, then found the hotside of the turbo touched the manifold very slightly which has been rectified by chopping a little bit away.

Lee is getting on with the jobs now he has everything as required.

Lee has told me I need to put 1000 miles on the engine after he has built it keeping it under 3,000 rpm. this may be airing on the side of caution but because its his work i will do as he says so if I have any problems I can go back to him. Then an oil change, then it will be ready to run properly

Of course the mapping session will require putting the engine under lots of load, am i ok to disconnect the N75 and drive the car with the above mods for ~1k miles before getting a remap? its not going to cause any problems is it?
 
You'll be fine driving it with the N75 unplugged Mark, that's what i did when i had my head work done. Will be scary when Wayne's mapping it though as it'll be the first time the engine will get so much load after the rebuild.

Bill and Tuffty will clarify but if it was me i'd do a few hundred miles of both normal road and motorway. Then do some loaded runs with the N75 disconnected and do some logs to see if there are any issues. I take it your actuator will be in the 8-10psi?

You want to have little/no issues on the 19th
 
Inertiauk said:
I believe its set at 10psi at the actuator.

Getting excited now. Fingers crossed nothing goes wrong.

Bet you are excited, yours is in 2 days.
Click to expand...

Ssssh :sly:....but yes...i am kinda excited :happy: (hope nothing goes wrong!)

It'll be good to compare your hybrid against my standard though
 
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Progressing slowly due to a busy mechanic and hitting hiccups (the joys of modifying)

My main problem at the moment is getting the Frankenturbo Manifold onto the head. I have it drilled on the collector side with a 12.5mm reamer (my dad is a precision engineer) so the turbo fits. Now it needs drilling on the head side because its too tight on teh bolts to slide flush. the problem is if i get it drilled like this there wont be a whole lot of metal left around the bolt holes.

I'm considering another option Audi / VW TT S3 Quattro GTi Stainless Race Manifold K04 | eBayIt means importing and waiting weeks again, but they claim it wont need ant mods and will fit straight on, looks very good on the pictures, any thoughts ?
 
What were the mods ? did you have to Re-drill every hole and chop away at a bit of pipe to stop it touching both the turbo and the head ?

I'm just worried once I've finished modifying mine to fit there wont be much left.
 
The ebay one is an xspower one. that will still need modification just like the ft one, so your back to square one again. it did serve welly well tho, and they may have revised the design.

what gets me is these companies, especially frankenturbo that have actually tuned h6brid cars and have used the manis, sell ones that dont fit. I don't get it.
 
sneaky aren't they putting it on top of a HKS box like that and just not mentioning the brand.

It does look very similar to XS power ones but it looks a bit fatter, probably just the angle of the picture though.

Also in his description it actually says "just bolts on no modification needed" which could be true if its a perfected version, or could be a lie, or just an incorrect presumption.

I've not given up on the FT yet, just struggling a bit and looking at the options again.

Feels like i don't even own an S3 its been off the road that long lol. Touch wood it will be done soon.
 
No Idea Paradox we will see when its done. Hopefully a lot due to the issued I have been having.

We have had problems because of the FT prototype manifold, should've got an XS power one afterall.

First of all the turbo would not bolt to the collector, so had to have the holes reamed out, then the Manni would not fit the head, had those holes tweaked as well, plus had to modify the heat shield on my head to accommodate.

Fitted the manni and started to put the head on, turbo did not line up with collector in its mount, modified turbo mount to position it differently (by around 1.5") Bolted turbo to manifold, bolted down head and setup timing belt etc,

all good close to job done, except because the turbo has been moved the downpipe will no longer bolt up to it.

Mechanic is currently struggling to find a way to get the downpipe on, however its not looking good and its looking like the head is having to come off again to fit a different manifold.

Wishing i bought the XS power one to begin with, I know the FT manifold is a prototype but mine is not even close.
 
Have you tried fitting yours dave ?

after a (quick) reply from FT by email I'm going to head to the garage tommorow afternoon with the old turbo and manifold and see if I can see what's different.

Doug suspects something else is wrong.
 
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Inertiauk said:
Have you tried fitting yours dave ?

after a (quick) reply from FT by email I'm going to head to the garage tommorow afternoon with the old turbo and manifold and see if I can see what's different.

Doug suspects something else is wrong.
Click to expand...
Not yet mate... its been put off a month or 2 as im to busy at work..hopefully next month
 
Mine is finally on but it caused a lot of problems. and had to modify everything around it to make it fit.

Engine is running sweet, very smooth and quiet. But the half moon seal is leaking. so rocker cover is back off to sort that out, then ready to bed the engine in before the map.

Mechanic has recommended changing spark plugs before the map just to be safe, he said good quality ones that can handle increased temperatures. I also recall somone mentioned a different Gap to use them for hybrid setups ?

can anyone recommend which plugs to get and where to get them from ?

Thanks.
 
Inertiauk said:
What were the mods ? did you have to Re-drill every hole and chop away at a bit of pipe to stop it touching both the turbo and the head ?

I'm just worried once I've finished modifying mine to fit there wont be much left.
Click to expand...

I added a spacer to the base of the FT collector and welded it on. Also clearancing the holes to correct for their mis-drilling.
Holes on head flange were also clearanced so it slid onto studs without binding..

IMAG1179.jpg

IMAG1183.jpg


Welded it on the inside seal face, and as much as I could reach on the outside
IMAG1184.jpg


Turbo fitted no interferance to hotside like before
IMAG1185.jpg


Offending runner now cleared (without resorting to grinding either part)
IMAG1187.jpg


Bolted onto head.. 2 of the studs are biatches to access to tighten..
IMAG1189.jpg


These 2 are an **** to do up... hence different nuts on here which had more flats to tighten on, and also had to carve up a spanner to get at them. Not very clever design in this area. Mine bolts up perfectly no special spanners required in comparison.
IMAG1191.jpg


DP fitted up fine. No misalignment issues on this one.
 
Thanks Bill, looks a really tidy Job, mine is on now.

Did you not have problems with it fouling on the head ? we had to modify the heat shield on my head because it fouled where the second runner comes back up to meet the collector preventing it from fitting, I have marked on the photo's ... (Click to enlarge)




wish we took pictures of the work but we didn't and its built up now.
 
OK, engine built, and bedded in, I have done 1300 miles without going over 3,000 rpm

I get smoke in idle but I think this is unburned fuel because the map isn't set-up properly yet. Driving the car clears this.

My main concern is an oil pressure fault I cant seem to solve then it can go for its map.

What happens once the car has been running for over an hour and got pretty hot is that I get an intermittent oil pressure warning.
When driving over 2,000 RPM (but under 3k of course) this fault never occurs,
When idling this fault also never occurs.
When driving between ~ 1100 RPM and 1900RPM after a 10-20 seconds the oil pressure light comes on. When I take it over 2000RPM, within 5 second it goes off.

When the fault first comes it might not happen for a while but once the car has been running for 2 hours+ it happens constantly when you are in the above rev range.

the engine is not noisy, and drives smooth and as expected.

I have since fitted a new oil pressure switch, which didn't solve it, then a new oil pump and pick-up pipe (the last one was clean though, but just to be safe).
The problem remains.

Here is a video : Audi S3 1.8t oil Pressure Fault - YouTube

Sorry the picture is a bit small by the time I rotated it to be the right way and uploaded it to youtube it ended up like this.

Any ideas ? could it be anything to do with the fact that its not yet mapped for the turbo and injectors ? is it possible the new sensor (bought from BMS) is also faulty ?

My mechanic and my friend both suspect its an electrical problem throwing the warning because there is no sign of problems with the engine. the car has been stood for 4 months waiting for parts and having the work done.

What does everyone thing please ?
Thanks.


/edit, its been on VAG com at various times and never logged one single fault.
 
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if I were you, to satisfy yourself that it's an electrical problem, I'd rig up a mechanical guage just as a temoprary measure, and visably see what the oil pressure is doing when the light comes on...
 
Inertiauk said:
Thanks Bill, looks a really tidy Job, mine is on now.

Did you not have problems with it fouling on the head ? we had to modify the heat shield on my head because it fouled where the second runner comes back up to meet the collector preventing it from fitting, I have marked on the photo's ... (Click to enlarge)




wish we took pictures of the work but we didn't and its built up now.
Click to expand...

trimmed heatshield yes, but fitted head ok
 
same as prawn says.. validate this with a physical oil pressure check.
oil beeps wont come on below 2krpm, so thats normal..
wiring to the switch could be the issue if oil pressure is checked and >2bar on idle and >4bar over 3krpm (guide figures, these will vary)
 
Thanks Bill,

does mechanical gauge not mean I have to have an oil feed to the dashboard area ? don't like that idea, an electrical gauge with its own sender and wiring would be ok wouldn't it ?
 
Inertiauk said:
Thanks Bill,

does mechanical gauge not mean I have to have an oil feed to the dashboard area ? don't like that idea, an electrical gauge with its own sender and wiring would be ok wouldn't it ?
Click to expand...

for testing I use mechanical... simple look at it.. confirm its ok, and when happy remove it.
my badgerwagen runs SPA dual gauge oil temp/pressure and outputs to my DTA/Digi dash so is also logged... but this is somewhat ott for what you are wanting to confirm. Is pressure ok or not
 
Time for me to get involved in this i think, i rebuilt this engine etc etc, oil light came on after 190 miles of driving, the car idle in my garage for 4 hrs when 1st crank up-no smoke or anything. Drove well on road test considering i kept revs below 3000 rpm and told Mark to do same for 1st 1000 miles until engine beds in.
I have had car back several times foe oil light but i have yet to see it on, done oil pressure test and was spot on, then the plot thickens, after starting the car up in my garage the other day after doing oil change the water light came on in the information cluster, to which i checked and it was fine ?
therefore with new oil pump,switch,pressure test, 3 oil changes and water temp light apperaring, i suspect the clocks may have a fault.
My only issue is when the oil pressure test was conducted the oil light was out so pressure was ok and i wont see bad reading, so its a good idead mark gets is own gauge.........
 
Ruled out clocks being at fault by grounding the wire to the oil pressure switch permanently, this made the warning completely stop and never come up.

Once plugged back into the sensor it starts coming up again under the previous conditions.

The oil switch sensor fitted last time was from a motor factors, so I have just fitted a genuine one from Audi, just because you never know.
Will test drive with this fitted tonight.

Stacks Mechanical oil gauge ordered but not here yet
 
I bought one of them mk4 pods in grey, fitted it at first but the material obviously didnt match

2281d1c4.jpg


So i got some material from a salvage s3 headlining and wrapped the pod so it matched...

233c59fe.jpg


The second pic is in bad light but the effect is great, very subtle but in a great position.
 
Lesson learnt. Never ever use sensors/switches from motor factors. Genuine Audi oil pressure switch fitted and the problem is gone.
The BMS supplied oil pressure switch we fitted was as useless as the failed one we replaced it with.
 
Fitted facelift back lights today and did some more shopping.

Badger 5: fuel pump and fitting kit.
Awesome GTI - Forge DV (the new one with spring set), Magnetic Sump plug and TT Pedals
TPS - new heat shield which the back box fixes to.

tempted to get some facelift front lights, but all the problems people seem to be having with the adjusters failing, and they never seem to give problems on pre facelift, so i'm also tempted to keep mine.
 
My 008 DV :

DV.jpg


and My Pedals :

Pedals.jpg


and sump plugs came today. \0/

How shall I build the DV up for my hybrid setup ?

I was thinking Red spring and 1 or 2 Shims, or yellow spring with none, what do you lot think ?
 
F$*% ^£&^£**"! :haudrauf:

Done 300 miles on the new pressure switch and the fault has come back, is the car 'blowing' pressure switches ?

I chased my mechanical oil pressure gauge as its not yet here, should be here tomorrow with any luck.
 
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