My S3 Thread

A day of fail basically. I went to fit the thermostat and failed because the bottom bolt is such a pain in the *** to get to. I think I need to either a) get a decent 1/4" socket set to get in there or b) get a garage to do it and pay through the nose.

It seems my battery was on the way out too as its finally died. I went to start the car and it just clicked. Took the battery out, tried to charge it and it didn't really take a charge (the charger is meant to take 12 hours or something and it said fully charged in 1). The indicator that is usually green on batteries was not even lit up and the multimeter said it had 0.0 volts. Dead.

Does this car ever stop costing money haha :)

I did clean the IAT sensor (it was covered in oil glaze) but won't know what difference it made till I get a battery now :(
 
Well. It gets better.

I fitted the new battery, topped the water up and thought awesome all sorted but noooooo. I reverse out of my garage and notice a small (couple of inches) patch of oil at the rear. The ****** controller started leaking I think. I've never noticed it before and I've made a habit of checking when I park etc. I wonder why it's suddenly started?

I've ordered a new gasket which I'll fit ASAP and getting the fluid topped up at the weekend. I'll do the thermostat and sort out the dipstick tube at the same time. Then it's gotta be sorted??
 
Well. It gets better.

I fitted the new battery, topped the water up and thought awesome all sorted but noooooo. I reverse out of my garage and notice a small (couple of inches) patch of oil at the rear. The ****** controller started leaking I think. I've never noticed it before and I've made a habit of checking when I park etc. I wonder why it's suddenly started?

I've ordered a new gasket which I'll fit ASAP and getting the fluid topped up at the weekend. I'll do the thermostat and sort out the dipstick tube at the same time. Then it's gotta be sorted??

It's never sorted mate, there's always something.
 
Haha true. Sods law something else is bound to break and cost an arm and a leg. Touch wood it doesn't...
 
Well the aeroquip fitting arrived in. Now I just have to worry about getting the old hoses out and finding a spot to mount the can.

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Do I need anything else to replace the hoses with this setup? I guess a 1 way valve for the brake hose but that's about it right?
 
I'm going to get the fluid topped up in the Haldex tomorrow but to get it there the guy said its probably best to pull the fuse for the Haldex. Am I correct in thinking it's fuse 31 to disable the awd on the S3?
 
Turns out I was a total idiot and in the madness when fitting the controller, I had to refit it a few times and managed to put the gasket on the wrong way around. I feel like such a tool, I've never made a mistake like that. Ah well I guess you live and learn.

Going to get the fluid topped up tomorrow and probably do the thermostat and if I have time, the catch can, later today.
 
True, luckily I don't think I lost too much fluid so should be back to health after the top up. I'm still learning this VAG lark. I've come from a very basic 205 :)
 
Fluid topped up and all good now. I had a good chat with Seb who runs Euro Automotive (where I went). He's building some absolute monster cars. R32/VR6 Turbos, RS6's all sorts, even a $1300 13 second car (some sort of challenge).

I thought you might be interested in this S3 that he's building. I think it's a CTS Stage 5 kit. Looks awesome. He's hoping to track and drag it. He has a GT2871 (with .83 housing) kit that I'm hoping we can come to a deal on for a website build ;)

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It gets better, he has an ECU with a map already on it for my car so it'll just need a tweak. Apparently it's a Unitronic 630? I assume 630cc injectors. Not sure if it's MAFless or not.

Hopefully we can strike up a deal.

He said he'd been running this setup for 50,000km's without issues on the standard engine (no rod change). From what I can see this is very hit and miss, some say its down to mapping. I suppose a torque spike could easily cause it. I guess the best way to do it is to try and stay on the safe (not exactly 100% safe) side of 300lb/ft.
 
He said he'd been running this setup for 50,000km's without issues on the standard engine (no rod change). From what I can see this is very hit and miss, some say its down to mapping. I suppose a torque spike could easily cause it. I guess the best way to do it is to try and stay on the safe (not exactly 100% safe) side of 300lb/ft.

IMHO, it's a BIG risk.

Some engines run high power forever with no side effects. Just because someone has done something in the past successfully, doesn't mean that it will be the case for all engine.

I'd rather have the piece of mind. There was one one here recently with a Backdraft conversion, did 10,000 miles on stock rods, then one of them died. Most of the time when you put uber amounts of stress on them, it's not if, but when.

Just my thoughts.
 
Yeh I guess you're right. The problem is I'd be too tempted to do the head (big port & new valves) while I'm there so the costs soon skyrocket. Ah we'll see. The engine has to come out to fit the kit so it might all be able to be done at the same time. I'll get some rods from the states, they're not expensive. Just the fitting I guess!
 
Yeh I guess you're right. The problem is I'd be too tempted to do the head (big port & new valves) while I'm there so the costs soon skyrocket. Ah we'll see. The engine has to come out to fit the kit so it might all be able to be done at the same time. I'll get some rods from the states, they're not expensive. Just the fitting I guess!

Honestly mate, not fitting rods when doing work like that is short term gain, with potential for HUGE long term loss....
 
Would you suggest changing valves while you do rods?

I haven't, although I did have them all cleans, checked and relapped during the head's last session off the car.

Valve train mods are expensive, Supertech valves are NOT cheap. Stock valve train is good to around 7500 - 7800 RPM.

Get the exhaust guides in the head changed though would be my advice.
 
Cool, cheers dude. I imagine none of this will happen for a while.

Quite jealous of his build though. The turbo is huuuuuge.
 
Managed to do the thermostat today. Top tip is just to use a small 1/4" ratchet set. I managed to get a neat little ~20 piece stanley set for about £10 from the equivalent of B&Q (Bunnings). Did the job perfectly. Another tip I'd give is try to fit the o-ring to the plastic pipe rather than to the block. First time I fitted it I put the o-ring in the block and rather than sealing properly, it got caught and water just leaked straight out. I mostly drained the system in the end so had to use a fair bit of G12+ fluid. Sits nicely at 90c now and gets there much quicker. Awesome :)

I was also going to sort the little ring of the old dipstick tube that was stuck in the metal tube to the block today too. I didn't need to in the end because when I pulled out the replacement dipstick tube the little ball on the dipstick caught it and pulled out clean, saved me a job!

The list is getting smaller now, just the oil leak (cam covers perhaps) and fit the moroso catch can. Oh, and the B5 TIP and Jetex when it arrives.
 
Just ordered all the parts to convert the breather system to -10/-12AN:

2 extra 90 degree -12AN push fittings
1 block adapter (from IE)
1 cam cover adapter (from IE)
1 -10AN female to male -12AN expander
1 -10AN male to -12AN male adapter

Probably take an age to come but I thought do it once and do it right :)
 
I've just sorted a very good deal on a brand new Peloquin rear diff :)

I think I might well do what Westle is doing and create a "sorted" K04 car. Later down the line I can do more...
 
I got this package today:
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Inside was this:
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It's smaller than I thought it would be but it's mega heavy! Solid bit of kit. Looking forward to getting it fitted. Not sure whether to have a go myself as it looks like I'd need a bearing press.
 
I am definitely keen to find out how the Peloquin goes, especially with the Haldex Blue
 
I'm not sure it'll make a massive difference. As per usual, there's massively varying opinions on the net. For the price I got it though it was almost rude not to buy it. It'll be great for the future when I eventually get the front diff and decent power :)
 
Still trying to get the diff fitted but in the mean time the parts to sort my breather system have arrived. I bought the Integrated Engineering adapters for the block and the cam cover. I mainly wanted to replace the block one but once you start you gotta finish. I was going to get a new block L shape pipe from Audi/VW but they wanted more than the parts to replace it with aeroquip fittings from the states!! I'll try and get this little lot fitted tomorrow...

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Yeh shame most of it you won't be able to see. Ah well at least it'll be trouble free.

Very jealous of your FMIC setup btw. I keep looking at the wagner one:
Audi S3 FMIC
 
That Wagner one looks tidy but I suppose it should for the price....I wonder how well it fits...?
 
Yeah, I wonder too - it's a thinner core than most at 50mm which might help clearance a touch. The fact it's black I like. OEM almost. I emailed them - might have to buy one and bring it back next time I'm over...
 
Yeah, I wonder too - it's a thinner core than most at 50mm which might help clearance a touch. The fact it's black I like. OEM almost. I emailed them - might have to buy one and bring it back next time I'm over...

You can just get a silver one powder coated black, that's all they've done. I wasn't overly bothered with mine.
 

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