The TQS Owners thread

Drop the "r" from my name mate or just call me Westy ;)

Basically to simplify the PCV system you remove that pipe on the right hand side (end) of the inlet manifold. There is a 1 way valve just befor the forked piec of rubber and you reuse this. You block off the forked bit which is going in between the inlet mani then connects to that pipe underneath.

I cant see the black pipe by the FPR you mean? Can you upload a larger pic and I'll start circling bits ;)
 
engine1.JPG


sorry m8 will just call ya neil or westy found this pic if you look at the fpr you will see a black pipe that sticks up its about 4mm hose not the 19mm stuff behind it that goes to the tip and its form part of the pcv valve but as i removed mine i left it open and un attached to anything although i do have two nipples under the inlet manifold one at the rear of the dipstick and another one to the right of this would i be right in conecting this pipe to the nippe to the right of the one behind the dipstick as the pcv valve guide only showed 1 nipple beeing blocked off.
 
thought i would show this while i was searching the web for some engine bay pics.
g60_charger_outlet.jpg
 
this one might be better for ya westy.
15nah5u.jpg


its not the pipe that is circled its the one right next to it going down behind the fpr where the fpr line goes
 
Last edited:
engine1.jpg


Do you mean the piece of hose i've marked in red by the FPR? Is there 2 pipes coming from the FPR on a fork?

On the S3 mani there are 3 nipples underneath roughly marked in the positions of the blue bits. 2 3/4mm nipples and an 8mm (I think) one in the middle behind the dipstick, which you block off.

The rear nipple should go straight to the top of the DV as shown by green line. and the front nipple to the FPR.

You can then block off the pipe i've put a red bit on as this connects to the 8mm nipple behinf the dipstick.

I'm guessing that your mani and engine is quite different now.
 
when i removed the pcv system it was part of that and it goes to the tip as you can see in the first pic the blue pipe coming of the tip just above where it says forge.

would i be best blocking it off or conecting it up to the nipple on the under side as my pcv valve conected to both nipple underneath the manifold that pipe was conected into a pipe that was conected to the nipple that is closest to the battery side.
 
and you can also see how my n249 works from that pic above where i would take the pipe from the top of the dv and tee into the fpr as i dont have all the pipes like an s3 does ontop of the engine
 
The BAM engine is sooooo much simpler.

I would say, block off the tip inlet/outlet for that pipe and remove it but I think you need some help from someone with the same engine code as you who has done this before.
 
i wish at times i had got an s3 but i just love the colour of mine. cheers westy will have a play about at the weekend see what i can do.
 
true there is another 1 or 2 in the country so im on a hunt to find them and respray there car overnight a different colour so im the only one :aggressive:
 
Ah, the joys of not having a really popular car :lmfao: Who am I trying to kid, it's a pain in the anus!

Noticed any more difference since you added the inlet manifold pipe Paul?
 
nope non as off yet m8 only it helped the engine a bit by the pipe beeing bigger.

i may have the solution to the n249 as you have a ARY same as me.

basically when you remove all the crap under the inlet and fit a catch can there will be two nipple's under there one you block off which is behind the dipstick, and the other will be left free also you will have a pipe which comes from the tip and conecects to the pcv system its the pipe on the pics i was showing westy.

so you would conect this pipe to the spare nipple then connect the pipe from the top of the dv and tee into the pipe that comes from the tip to the nipple under the inlet. this would make the n249 inactive which you would want then if fitting a boost guage tee into the same line again near the dv end and all done. doing mine at the weekend and also extending the pipe for the fmic as its to short and leaking.

will do some pics at weekend of this and boost guage for ya.
 
Sounds too complex for me mate, let me know how it goes anyways. Where did you mount to gauge in the end Paul, did you go with the drivers side vent?

Also, when are you getting the bits done at awesome?
 
Paul I think I now understand? As there is only 1 4mm nipple under the mani you need a T-piece so that it goes to the FPR and the DV, is that correct?

So if you then fit a boost guage you effectively have 2 T-pieces running off the same line???
 
reesyboy said:
Sounds too complex for me mate, let me know how it goes anyways. Where did you mount to gauge in the end Paul, did you go with the drivers side vent?

Also, when are you getting the bits done at awesome?
Click to expand...


yeh i mounted the boost gauge into the driver vent,

which bits would you be on about, if you mean the suspension then im still saving for that lol and probs do it with me bro save money and get bro's work to 4 wheel align the car.

may have a good quick spin in the gt3 when im there :yahoo:
 
Yeah i'm on about the suspension, I'd say you'd be better buying the bits and getting someone else to fit it.

Any reason why you are going for FK coilovers? I'm thinking of going for the Billy B8's and Eibachs/APEX springs
 
Westle said:
Paul I think I now understand? As there is only 1 4mm nipple under the mani you need a T-piece so that it goes to the FPR and the DV, is that correct?

So if you then fit a boost guage you effectively have 2 T-pieces running off the same line???
Click to expand...

i have two nipples under the inlet mani one was blocked which is behind the dipostick and the other is free so i may be able to connect the spare pipe from the tip tee the dv into that and tee agin into that for the boost guage
 
reesyboy said:
Yeah i'm on about the suspension, I'd say you'd be better buying the bits and getting someone else to fit it.

Any reason why you are going for FK coilovers? I'm thinking of going for the Billy B8's and Eibachs/APEX springs
Click to expand...

billy b8 and eibach pro springs is an amazing set up although i had this this on my 106 and its didnt reduce the height just made the car go round like it was on rails lol.

the reason for the fk's is they cheap and also i wanted coilovers so i can lower the ca and get it sat exactly where i wanted it also the fk's have good ratings
 
paul syverson said:
i have two nipples under the inlet mani one was blocked which is behind the dipostick and the other is free so i may be able to connect the spare pipe from the tip tee the dv into that and tee agin into that for the boost guage
Click to expand...

Yeah but you only have 1 4mm (thin) nipple? If you trace the hose that comes off the FPR where does it go?
 
I like the sound of going around corners on rails, and as long as It drops 20/30mm, I'm happy.
 
paul is yours a 5 door?!

i need to get a catch can fitted, just looks a total PITA i need to properly read through westles thread when i got some time :/
 
5 doors are the best!

Can't remember what you said mate, but how long was it/how much did it cost to do the ball joints?

Spoken to Bill, and he is booked up for 3 weeks or so. I might try and get up around then and try and sort something out
 
Are your ball joints bigger then ours?

What are you having done at 4rings mate, I thought they were a mobile jobby?
 
reesyboy said:
Are your ball joints bigger then ours?

What are you having done at 4rings mate, I thought they were a mobile jobby?
Click to expand...

I would have thought they'd be the same as yours as both cars are quattro but I'm probably wrong. Superkarl used cheaper ones from ECP and he had to modify them to fit properly.

It's in for a service but at the same time they are removing the turbo and sending it to Turbo Dynamics for a refurb ;)
 
If you don't mind me asking, what are they charging you for a service?

All I could see on their site was about the mobile side of things. It'd be nice to try and find a reputable garage up that way, as I'll be moving about 35/40 miles south of their base, within the next month or so, and the old banger will need a service/gearbox oil/haldex oil change soon.
 
reesyboy said:
If you don't mind me asking, what are they charging you for a service?

All I could see on their site was about the mobile side of things. It'd be nice to try and find a reputable garage up that way, as I'll be moving about 35/40 miles south of their base, within the next month or so, and the old banger will need a service/gearbox oil/haldex oil change soon.
Click to expand...

I cant recommend them enough mate, they have done all the work on my car since day 1 of ownership.

The standard service I'm having done is £185 all inclusive.

I tend to do haldex oil changes myself as I bought the tool and dont want to waste it ;) I only get them to do the service as I get a proper stamp in my book otherwise I'd do it myself too.
 
I have a mate who can do the servicing for me, but I like you would like to keep the stamp up to date. At least until she goes over 100/110k anyway. £185 is pretty reasonable as well, beats the hell out of Audi's steep prices. Mind you, how else would they afford the coffee machines and the flat screen T.V's..

Is the haldex easy to do then, if you know the right tool, sorry someone with the right tool. :lmfao:
 
reesyboy said:
I have a mate who can do the servicing for me, but I like you would like to keep the stamp up to date. At least until she goes over 100/110k anyway. £185 is pretty reasonable as well, beats the hell out of Audi's steep prices. Mind you, how else would they afford the coffee machines and the flat screen T.V's..

Is the haldex easy to do then, if you know the right tool, sorry someone with the right tool. :lmfao:
Click to expand...

Their labour charge is £50 an hour but they are all ex Audi mechs so they know their stuff.

The haldex is easier than the engine oil change with the right tools.
 
grrr stuck in three minds send the car to psi get hybrid done along with rods etc looking around £1500 or just keep the car as is and remap exhaust etc.

or sell up and get something else,

its just the car is so f*****g slow i constantly have corsa vxr's and astra's golf r32's pinned to the rear and carnt loose them. then i speak with my mechanic (brother) and he said leave it as is because if i go down bigger turbo route will end up breaking down more as there is more stress in engine and will end up fixing it every weekend like his old rs turbo.

the problem is my last car was complete track slag all stripped out and cammed up to death it broke something every week but the thrill and way it pulled was great but cost a fair bit to keep on the road i just dont want this with the audi as i know audi parts aint cheap.

if i sold it i think i would buy either a 350z or a civic type r
 
my only worry about going down big power route is is the car gonna be reliable answer i don't know,
my inital plan was go stage 2 roughly 230-240bhp lower the car fit exhaust tidy up engine bay done, im so indecisive.
 
Hybrid shouldn't cause too many problems, as they chuck out about the same as a stage 1 s3, and they aren't known for their engine problems, every thing else goes as it does in the a3, but the engines seem to be o.k.
 
it may not cause any problems but for an extra 20 bhp is it worth it im gonna go with original plan as i will need all that stuff apart from the map any way.
just been looking at some 350z's its just soooo tempting to sell the car on and get one only thing making me keep the car is the colour lol
 
I've got to ask what you mean for an extra 20bhp. Our cars run a max of around 225, and so 265/270 would be a massive difference. I know the jump from 180-220 was massive, so 220-260 would be equally as big. All that from a pretty stock engine.
 
Cost me 35 for both balljoints from europarts and took me 30 mins per side to fit myself! I've just bought a second a3 for a daily driver so that's the first thing I'm going to replace on it so I'll do a guide with pics for u lol
 
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