Over revving between gear changes

g dawg

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hi i've researched all i can about this problem and have had no joy!! i brought the 2001 s3 weeks ago and so far have changed the g sensors clutch switch at audi, this made no difference the maf looks new and is not throwing up any fault on vag com i changed the throttle body to no joy the car still does it the d v has been done too. hope someone reading this can give me an idea of whats going on before i go to audi and loose mega bucks!
thanks
Gareth
 
Have you considered the clutch slipping?
 
the clucth is fairly new and audi didn't think that was it they cant seem to find the fault i'm back there tomoz
 
Could be something simple like a clogged up throttle body.
 
i put a knew throttle body on this morning though
 
I wish people would leave out the 'clutch slipping' bit! Its a completely different problem. The car ADD's revs as you dip the clutch to select the next gear.

Mine has done it for ages now and i give up trying to find the fault. I've had clutch switch, a new clutch etc, asked the remap company but no joy. Someone suggested it was a function programmed in to prevent turbo stall/damage. Not sure why this would be required because the DV does this but makes me wonder!

I just live with it now!
 
i know what you mean mate i've tried everything i've now left it with audi for 2 days personaly i think the throttle may be at fault its about the only thing left to change!!
 
not all of them do it tho which is odd.
rev hanging on non S3's is usually the clutch pedal switch.

Do you have any implausable signal type code on scanning errors?
 
mine does exactly the same thing. Had the throttle body off and it shines inside now. Also replaced clutch switch. Going to replace coil packs as the car hesitates at FOT. Really starting to lose my patience with it tbh. Oh yeh, had a new clutch and flywheel which didnt help it. On the plus side, i am driving extremely sensibly.

i did have a remap which made the rev jump more noticable. Therefore somethings making me wonder if its boost related, as its running higher boost now (think it peaks at 1.6 and comes down to 1.4/1.5 - need to get a boost gauage in the car!!)
 
mine did the same when i first got it revs hanging on gear change and not dropping for a few seconds. It was the MAF on mine :thumbsup:
 
Hmm, could try changing the MAF. is it a straight swap or is vagcom required
 
i had this on my A4 along with other issues 17705 etc

anyway changed coil packs plugs DV no different i was thinking of changing MAF but changed temp sensor first it seems to have cured the over revving but not the 17705

you could try that there only cheap
 
Hmm, could try changing the MAF. is it a straight swap or is vagcom required

No vagcom needed!

Just a case of taking the top of the air filter housing off, unscrewing the MAF from the back of it then undoing the jubilee clip on the other side of the MAF.
What you're left with is essentially a section of plastic tubeing with a sim card sticking out inside it.
Replace with the new one and reverse the process. Happy days!:arco:

Also worth noting - Buy a genuine one. I tried to save the pennies by buying a cheaper one, ended up paying for a genuine one as well cos the cheaper one was iffy. You live and learn...

EDIT: Just realised that we're talking S3's here. That up there is for an A3, assume they're the same?
 
I guess they're very similar if not the same.

I'll perhaps give it a go.

Interesting about the Temp sender too. Mine does the low temp reading unless in traffic thing so perhaps there is a fault there which is linked. Really its just the over revving which dents the otherwise enjoyable driving experience. I find myself changing gear at about 4k revs slowly. Not a bad thing though as my last car was at 8k revs most of the time!
 
Have a look at this post:

http://audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=82577

Mine did exactly the same on gearchanges, as did my brothers S3, all we have done is reset the clutch swith so I would give the clutch switch a go, may cost you nothing if the switch is fine and only needs resetting or a new genuine replacement cost around a tenner.

Maybe worthwhile picking up and changing your temp sender too as they are also prone to failure and they are pretty easy to change. Failing that, I would say that the temp problems are down to the thermostat. HTH,
 
Forgive me if its not very helpful but when I had my re map, they re newed the clutch switch, (was £12 I think) but its not a straight swap like most of the sensors, they had to use vag com to get the new component to communicate with the ecu and for the ecu to accept its signal etc. I was there when they did it and they didnt charge for it so I cant see they were pulling the wool over my eyes for more labour time, could it be as simple as a working part just not 'introduced' properly to the ecu?(if you excuse the expression!) :)
 
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Never heard of that either, but then I'm no master in using VCDS Vagcom. I didn't use VCDS when I reset my clutch switch (or on my brothers car) and it has worked fine since. I must admit that it didn't work first time when I tried it but I followed procedure again, reinstalled it and it has been fine ever since.
 
Yeah, they were doing it when I turned up to pick up the car, maybe it is something along the lines of the throttle body alignment procedure? Like I say, they charged me for the part but not fitting it as its where I had my custom code done it certainly stopped the revs rising everytime I used the clutch!
 
Hmm, thats an interesting one also. I've not heard of needing vagcom for the clutch switch either but i'm new to all this really.

I've tried numerous times to reset my clutch switch when i installed it but nothing seemed to make a difference. I'm thinking of taping the switch 'IN' to see if that does anything, then i'll know if its switch related or not.

Also think the car needs a temp sender but not sure if thats linked.

Not too much info around with regard to this issue i see!

Good luck all!
 
You can reset the TB using VagCom, which would make a bit more sense. Thats another thing people have done to see if it gets rid of their over revving issue.
 
just did the TB reset, although havent driven the car yet. I also ran Vag com on it and came up with the below fault...

1 Fault Found:
17863 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235): Implausible Signal
P1455 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

I wonder if this is contributing...
 
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Just realised I didnt reply. No, the TB alignment did not help. I am ordering the EGT sensor (G235) today and have a saturday to try and fit it. Will also be doing the thermostat as well.
 
Mine started doing this AFTER I cleaned and aligned throttle bodie, I think its just the TB not snapping shut quick enough or idle control valve, bet this only hapens on fly by wire models. either way im not really bother by it
 
Did the thermostat. Didnt solve the problem, although you can tell the car is at a more efficient temperature now. Have the EGT sensor, just need to fit the damn thing. Oh, and replacing the thermostat was hassle!! Little room for manouvere. Asked Audi how much they charge to do it and laughed at the £330 quoted, especially as its only a £30 part.
 
The mystery continues then. Had a spirited drive home last night and found thte over revving rather annoying. Still enjoyed the journey though!

Strange problem this one, with no known cure!
 
Another pain in the **** from Audi.......thanks!! I changed my clutch switch the other day and it's still doing it! Someone in this topic said they changed their MAF and it solved the problem. Has anyone else done this?
 
Thats my next thing to do after I change the EGT G235 sensor. Im doing all this and might infact be selling the car because Im going travelling for 12 months at the end of April! Have a Blueflame turbo back exhaust sitting in the garage aswell. Reluctant to put it on until I get rid of the issue.
 
I had to refit mine a couple of times before it actually worked. Check block 066 in VCDS and you should notice it change when you dip the clutch.
 
I just setup a laptop on the passenger seat with 066 block and played around until I got it to register. The new switch doesn't seem to have the same ratchet setup the old one did so it doesn't need adjustment as far as I know.
 
I had to refit mine a couple of times before it actually worked. Check block 066 in VCDS and you should notice it change when you dip the clutch.

Tip top tip!! :thumbsup: Will be doing this as soon as I get home.