S3 Issues

Sam_

Sam_

Down under
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I'm having some issues with my S3 at the moment; idle is rough and if I drive at very light throttle between 2k and 3k I get the odd stutter. I checked for any obvious leaks and the guy before me had not connected the breather hose to the TIP so it was just getting open air through there (I wondered why I could hear the diverter valve so loudly!). I did notice the breather hose was split (like completely split off) on the front. This isn't a picture of my engine but I've highlighted which hose I mean:
Broken breather hose | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Any idea if that would cause the dodgy idle and missing at light throttle? It did seem a lot better since I plumbed back in the breather hose but it was still a bit flaky pulling away from lights etc.

Measured the MAF at cold start and it was around 5g/s so assume thats ok but I've not tested it flat out yet. I have bought a full version of VCDS Lite so I'll clear the codes when that comes through and try it again. I've filled in the gaps using google. Here are my faults (I haven't cleared anything):

Code: 
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,22,35,37,45,54,55,56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 8N0 906 018 BJ
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 26710
Shop #: WSC 12853

4 Faults Found:
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17536 - Long term fuel trim - System too lean
P1128 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17947 - Clutch switch fault
P1539 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 8N0 907 379 E
Component: ESP 20 CAN V005 
Coding: 18448
Shop #: WSC 01236
2 Faults Found:
01542 - Yaw Rate Sensor (G202)
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor
57-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

Would the N249 cause a loss in performance too? I assume the MAF fault and system too lean will be fixed with the breather hose being refitted so now its not getting unmetered air. Also the clutch was changed recently so I hope that switch is ok but I will check block 066 tomorrow when the license (hopefully) comes through.

Any help appreciated.
 
Personally I would clear the codes now which the shareware version will let you do, drive it for a bit and then re-scan for faults.
 
Maf is gone, that error will come up again. I would look into cleaning your fuel system i.e injectors, fpr & the filter.
 
Thanks for the replies. OK cool well I'll give it another run tomorrow. Where's the the cheapest place to get a decent one? Do the dealer do them on exchange?
 
euro car parts ang GSF around £70 for an exchage of a recon one, uses a new sensor as good as new
 
Shame they don't do worldwide. I'm in Sydney. I'll call the dealer if it comes back and see what they go for...
 
Ok so I cleared the faults and took it for a spin and it was an absolute monster all up until the point where (I think) a coilpack died.

The car ran on three and I limped it the short distance home. Checked for faults and sure enough a misfire code on cyl 3. Does this sound like the coilpacks? Could explain the idle too I guess? it happened after I gave it a bit of a thrash...

I'm told you're meant to replace all 4. They're $80 each from VW here (Sydney) so want to make sure!
 
Does the S3 have an ignition module? I've read this can cause issues also. Especially on cylinder 3.
 
OK cheers. Does it sound like a coilpack? Do they fail suddenly or intermittent? It felt a bit odd at a set of lights prior (felt like the engine was shaking a bit) but it went away and then after a heated run it dropped to three cylinders?
 
Yeh that was my plan, then if it fixes buy the other three? I hear the trend is to have a spare in the boot.
 
That does look pretty hopeful. I wonder if it's the same in Australia? I mentioned it to the parts guy and he had no idea...
 
I changed only one and it made no difference to the rest, its all marketing for the seller. just get 1 you need
 
Audi have said there is a recall for an ignition check on the car so sounds like coilpacks. Thing is, to get it there I'm going to have to buy a new coil. Drive it like 100m away from the dealer, change the duff coil back in and then let them test it! They said if I change it then the warranty is void and they won't change them!
 
audi upgrades
Nope I got it from a small dealer. I'll clear that code before I take it to Audi and if they tell me it needs doing then I'll get it on paper and take it to the garage...
 
Audi replaced the busted coil pack but only that one. Apparently the rest are not included in the recall (they had newer part numbers). They didn't mention anything about the yaw sensor. It recently had a major service including the haldex service etc so I'll clear the codes and check if it comes back. I've read that it can be caused by dry solder joints on the VWs.
 
I am yet again having issues with cylinder 3 coil.

Audi found that the coil in #1 was due for a recall so instead of replacing #1 and #3 (faulty), they put the recall coil into #3 and a new one into #1. Surely that is a bit dodgy? Well it turns out that the coil they moved from #1 to #3 has blown again.

My question is:
- Are Audi meant to have replaced all 4 even if they have the newer part numbers?
- Could something else be causing cylinder 3 to blow coils faster? Spark plugs perhaps? I'm going to change them this weekend incase its that.

It was fine for about 12 hrs !
 
Audi will only replace the coils that are affected in the recall, they only replaced 1 for me aswell

If the coil has been replaced then i would suggest pulling the plug out of cylinder 3 to check what conditions it's in, it could be the the plug has been damaged due to running lean (hot).

Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if the missfire stops?
 
Nope I'll try unplugging it. Strange that it was fine for 12 hrs though.

Well I'll try Audi but I assume they'll say "bring it in and we'll take a look" which will require an $80 tow again. I'll try unplugging the MAF and see if that changes anything. If not, I'll order 3 coil packs and a new set of plugs. I assume the OEM NGKs are the best?
 
Disconnected the MAF - no difference to the misfire. I'll grab some plugs and coils if Audi won't help (I assume they won't). They replaced 1 coil but the coil in #3 is old (its the one from 1 that was included in the recall).
 
Do bolt down hitachi (06B905115E) coils fit the BAM engine, would they be better?
 
Have you seen the thread about the coils keep blowing, if you do a search it will come up, it was done by Welly, its to do with the coil pack wiring and making sure its all ok....maybe worth a look.
 
Well I ordered the Hitachi bolt downs today:
06B 905 115E – coils
N10 117 405 – bolts (x8)
058 905 261A – seal (x4)

Hopefully, combined with new gapped ngk plugs and a coil pack harness check, they solve it once and for all.
 
Removed the plugs today and it looks like BKUR6ET's have been fitted. They generally looked ok but the ceramic insulator part (outside of the combustion chamber) had brown discolouration at the bottom.

I'll grab four PFR6Q and gap them to 0.032"/0.8mm when the new coils arrive. Hopefully have no problems with ignition after that!

Also, I managed to break the coil pack connector clip on removing #4 plug (brittle I assume), will that be an issue? It seems like the plug won't vibrate loose.
 
audi upgrades
I done this the other week is that the one nearest to air box if so should be fine as it's got the shortest cable and mines been fine ..
 
From VW. I'll post the part number when I get home.

Can't believe I'm already on first name terms with the guy at the VW parts desk two weeks into ownership...
 
Last edited:
Hitachi coil packs fitted along with 0.8mm gapped BKR6EIX iridium plugs and the car is idling nicely and driving well.

My only worry now is how it sounds on boost, it's pretty loud when it's spooling up and on boost, is that normal? I'll take a video later and log the boost. Which blocks should I log for boost and MAF flow? I'd like to work out if its been chipped or anything also. I'm worried I'm going to break it after these issues and I've only had it two weeks!
 
mate i have had mine 3 weeks and had coils, plugs, disc pads, rear caliper, clutch pedal snaped last night, got a front lambda fault that i need to get and change. seems to me these cars are not very reliable at all.
 
Sam S3 said:
Hitachi coil packs fitted along with 0.8mm gapped BKR6EIX iridium plugs and the car is idling nicely and driving well.

My only worry now is how it sounds on boost, it's pretty loud when it's spooling up and on boost, is that normal? I'll take a video later and log the boost. Which blocks should I log for boost and MAF flow? I'd like to work out if its been chipped or anything also. I'm worried I'm going to break it after these issues and I've only had it two weeks!
Click to expand...

Check your coil pack wiring for splits and crack in the plastic sheathing. This can cause coil packs to keep blowing up - I know, I went through 4.

Cut back the looking and just have a look see - any shorts in amongst the wiring will cause problems. Also take to 10mm bolt out of the earth from then look on the rocker cover and give it a quick rub with some fine sandpaper to ensure a good contact.

After that you should be set.
 
Thanks Welly. Is the loom easy enough to get out? It looks tighter than a nuns crutch in there. I'll give it a check though for piece of mind. Better safe than sorry...

The car drives well now but I am scared to give it stick incase it goes again.
 
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