Jacking Up An A3
- Thread starter Smoothie
- Start date
You can jack up an A3 with a flat trolley jack. Had it done on my A3 on both front and rear by an Audi Tech
Got the bits today - needless to say typical VAG quality and fit perfectly !:thumbsup:
As promised - here are the pics of the jacking pad install :-
Pic 1 - The two parts
Pic 2 - The removed cover plate
Pic 3 - Install position
Pic 4 - Installing the pads
Pic 5 - Finished install
Pic 6 - Being used
Two things to bear in mind chaps.
Once it's in it doesn't come out !!! - now I know why that website sells them in fours !!
Finally, you can't replace the plastic cover plate 'cos the fixing hole is already in use !!!
Total cost £5.44 and install time of approx 30 mins of which the first 15 were figuring out how to get the cover plate off. You just lever it with a big screwdriver !!
Sorry about the pics guys but I'm not very good under a car - it's the arthritis you know !
Pic 1 - The two parts
Pic 2 - The removed cover plate
Pic 3 - Install position
Pic 4 - Installing the pads
Pic 5 - Finished install
Pic 6 - Being used
Two things to bear in mind chaps.
Once it's in it doesn't come out !!! - now I know why that website sells them in fours !!
Finally, you can't replace the plastic cover plate 'cos the fixing hole is already in use !!!
Total cost £5.44 and install time of approx 30 mins of which the first 15 were figuring out how to get the cover plate off. You just lever it with a big screwdriver !!
Sorry about the pics guys but I'm not very good under a car - it's the arthritis you know !
Sorry guys on this one, I sent Bero a message on DW and asked him if he was ok for me to post his email, he said that he wanted to post himself so that he could keep track of items and orders.
If people are still interested I will get him to come over (again) Ive now subscribed to this to not miss anymore updates
If people are still interested I will get him to come over (again) Ive now subscribed to this to not miss anymore updates
To be honest mate, I think the above 'official' solution would be more ideal.
I know it will be for me anyway - to have permanent trolley jack pads at the ready
Yeah I do actually recall some holes like your pics show, whether I'm confusing with the rear lower arm spring holes, who knows lol.
I've just fitted the genuine Audi jacking points to my 2001 S3 8L, easy enough to fit, I used a bit of soapy solution and the piston out of an old brake caliper to help press them into place. I paid £18.12 in total for all 4 mounts from Boston Audi. Below are the pictures of my install:
Could someone please reassure me that I am jacking the car up in the correct place. I have fitted all my mounting points and although the rear points seem nice and strong the front points don't inspire me with confidence. The front hole where these fit into looks to buckle in when you put the full weight of the car on them. I have no fancy plastic cover underneath my 8L unlike the 8P's so it's easy to see if the under pan is flexing.
Could someone please reassure me that I am jacking the car up in the correct place. I have fitted all my mounting points and although the rear points seem nice and strong the front points don't inspire me with confidence. The front hole where these fit into looks to buckle in when you put the full weight of the car on them. I have no fancy plastic cover underneath my 8L unlike the 8P's so it's easy to see if the under pan is flexing.
Better pics than mine mate ! Can't reassure you because I don't know about the 8L chassis.
However, if the pads fitted tightly to start with but you can now twist them in the sockets then it would seem that they are 'made to fit' the holes you have used. As you have bungs in other holes then I would assume that if these were not the right holes, then they would have had bungs in as well !
However, if the pads fitted tightly to start with but you can now twist them in the sockets then it would seem that they are 'made to fit' the holes you have used. As you have bungs in other holes then I would assume that if these were not the right holes, then they would have had bungs in as well !
lads dont meant to be rude .but all i see in here in this pic is a simple'' ice hockey puck'' with a big efin chunk being cut out of it.
so you might as well manufacture theese for ur self.just buy a hockey puck and get some proper tools for the cutting part as its vulcanized ruber (quite strong)
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This has got me thinking now....
Can anyone on here confirm that they have jacked up their A3s with the pads without any bother to the floorpan? I bought some the other week but yet to try them out.
TBH it stands to reason tbh, if that areas not reinforced then it can cause deformity, I'm steering clear.
1inchpunch
Registered User
I jacked my car up by putting the jack just past the seam. I use a rubber pad that is actually an old rubber CD wallet that is about 3cm thick. Done one side, slipped an axle stand in then did the other side. The trouble I had was that the road outside my garage appears to be soft as pudding as the axle stands had dug into the road when I went to remove them 2 hours later.
What jack did you use Paul, and when you say just past the seam, where do you mean exactly in relation to the jacking notch recommended for the standard scissor jack?
Sorry to bring this thread back to life Mike,
Going to order these as like many others, I damaged the vertical jack points using a trolley jack. Lucky I got side skirts so it does not show.
Question is, when I give my dealer the part numbers you kindly supplied, do I order two of each, one for drivers and one for passenger?
Also would these be the same for the rear?
Until they arrive, if I remove the trim as you showed, do you or anyone else thing I would be ok using a bit of wood on that point just as a temporary measure.
Many thans
Forgotten about this thread !!
Yes, you need two of each. As you will see from the photos one part actually goes inside the other and then into the jacking point.
As far as I'm aware the rears are the same although I haven't got them.
Once the cover is removed you can use that jacking point with a block of wood or something provided it seats properly on the jacking point.
One thing to bear in mind is that you should really jack up both sides at the same time (presumably using two jacks) to ensure that you don't twist the chassis too much.
Good luck.
Yes, you need two of each. As you will see from the photos one part actually goes inside the other and then into the jacking point.
As far as I'm aware the rears are the same although I haven't got them.
Once the cover is removed you can use that jacking point with a block of wood or something provided it seats properly on the jacking point.
One thing to bear in mind is that you should really jack up both sides at the same time (presumably using two jacks) to ensure that you don't twist the chassis too much.
Good luck.
I solved this problem years ago and used on many cars. First a hard block of rubber placed on the jack cradle. ( several layers of rubber mat sections gaffer taped together works for a while ). Then using a section of old rubber pipe ( the cold/hot flexible pipes used for washing machines is ideal ) cut lengthways and slid over the seam. What is mega sad I have made a set of 4 using red washing machine pipe and they are permanently in place at the jacking points.
moag
she's no d-turbo
Synchromesh
:-)
I just use the points described in the manual (I don't use the standard jack though, that thing is scary)... I've done this many times and my sills are still perfect.
On a related note, can someone point out where I should put the jack stands at the back of an a3?
On a related note, can someone point out where I should put the jack stands at the back of an a3?
This method is what I use. It's the simplest and cheapest and can be used on all the VAG range of cars.
lads dont meant to be rude .but all i see in here in this pic is a simple'' ice hockey puck'' with a big efin chunk being cut out of it.
so you might as well manufacture theese for ur self.just buy a hockey puck and get some proper tools for the cutting part as its vulcanized ruber (quite strong)
