number plate light bulb holders

why would you put yourself so much hassle to changes number plate lights to led lights are you mad lol

Its no real secret that we are possibly mad and im most defiantly warranted to be certified as "weird" which i kinda take as a complement from my local JW's office when i got invited in for a chat about God and was asked to leave after drank all there coffee and i asked far too many questions that they had no reply too,
 
Its no real secret that we are possibly mad and im most defiantly warranted to be certified as "weird" which i kinda take as a complement from my local JW's office when i got invited in for a chat about God and was asked to leave after drank all there coffee and i asked far too many questions that they had no reply too,

Lol
 
Its no real secret that we are possibly mad and im most defiantly warranted to be certified as "weird" which i kinda take as a complement from my local JW's office when i got invited in for a chat about God and was asked to leave after drank all there coffee and i asked far too many questions that they had no reply too,
Hahaha
 
I have a set of bulbs sitting here (2nd ive had to waste money on actually as first set went walkies) Im now massivly put off bothering if im gonna get the same problem - what a waste of nearly 20 quid on bulbs :\
 
I couldn't rest knowing that the light surrounds were rusting away inside the tailgate like mine were

:ohmy:
 
hmmm just a thought guys if you take it to say audi how much do you think they would charge to change them. i mean if they have all the problems you lot are having do you think they can charge you for that or would you get away with just the price of a bulb change ? reson i say this is if thats all they charge evan if it needs new light holders thats not your fault if they brake the old ones there for cant charge for the new parts im prob wrong mind. and then when its all done you go home and pop the LEDS in ;-)
 
Nice try mate, but Audi are well aware of this problem, and I'm sure they'd charge you for the new bits required!
 
dammmit worth a thought a ;-) ill leave mine till its a must do then lol
 
just to update, i had a quick look - found my balls and went and fitted haha, lucky (for once) and it went straight forward - had to fiddle with one side to get the connection tidy thats all. Easy as peas :)
 
Had a go at changing mine and thank god the screws came out without too much fuss; I refitted them with LED festoons, HPI R/C screws and a dab of copper grease.

The pics are crap, but you get the idea..........

 
those LEDs look trick, where can i procure a set o these bad boys??
 
This might help you with the tailgate trim:

Tailgate1.jpg


Tailgate2.jpg


Have you got one of these tools James ? I want one. removing the interior trim on the Avant is a right bitch to do !!

I not have an issue that my LED lights stay on (all be it very dim) with lights & ignition off

Any ideas on how to resolve this ?
 
Have you got one of these tools James ? I want one. removing the interior trim on the Avant is a right bitch to do !!

I not have an issue that my LED lights stay on (all be it very dim) with lights & ignition off

Any ideas on how to resolve this ?

I haven't no, I just yanked mine off ..... so to speak .... but did break a couple of the little clips on the way, be careful but firm and you should be ok.

There must be some small voltage trickle that's keeping them illuminated. Not my field I'm afraid, maybe Woorlord can advise here?
those LEDs look trick, where can i procure a set o these bad boys??

I got mine off ebay, as did several others from this seller:

eBay My World - f1autoparts

The exact ones are no longer available, they just need to be Canbus compatible to prevent bulb errors.
 
I'm trying to replace my plinth now as my 1st attempt to just change the bulb holders wasn't the best! I've got the new bulb holders and plinth and have stripped it all back but can't get the old plinth out as it's stuck on the boot lock with that hooked piece of metal. Mine is a saloon so I'm not sure if it's the same as the avant set up but there doesn't seem to be enough room to twist the lock mechanism off the plinth. Any ideas/tips?
 
Cheers Woorlord, I was missing out the removal of the boot catch! Once that was removed it gave me enough slack to remove the plinth. All changed over now. Thanks again.
 
My boot lid switch has stopped working in the handle the other day and now have to use the remote to open the boot. I took the boot lid trim off today and all around the handle and lock is all corroded, so looks like I will have to replace the lot.

Does anyone know the part number of the boot lid switch assembly so I can order a new one?

Will also change the lens covers while I've got the handle off and replace to the screws like suggested in this thread :icon_thumright:
 
Yes, the bit were you put your fingers to press the boot release switch in the handle, the rubbery bit.

Can that bit be replaced or can it be stripped down and clean as it must only be a switch of some sort.
 
The boot release switch is held into the cast surround by a couple of Phillips screws iirc - I just swapped mine into the new cast bit, but I imagine you could strip it down to a certain extent. But I can't confirm, sorry.
 
The boot release switch is held into the cast surround by a couple of Phillips screws iirc - I just swapped mine into the new cast bit, but I imagine you could strip it down to a certain extent. But I can't confirm, sorry.

Cheers James, When you press it to open the boot it feels a bit clunky and not as smooth as it did a few days ago, so either something has broken or come loose inside the housing. I'll try and see if I can strip it down to see whats wrong, that way I can get the part number at the same time.
 
Can't you cut the bottom off them?

Put a nut on there before you do, then unwind it off to clean the threads up.
 
Quick question - On the back of the moulding does the micro switch (part that is inside the rubbery handle bit) come part of the wiring loom - Part Number is A8E0 971 145.

Thanks
 
sorted,,
and at the risk of sounding brash,,, "piece of cake"

took me about 10 minutes per side without having to remove anything at all,, other than the old lenses and rounded screws obviously!

remove the number plate to save scratching the reflective finish,

you will need a fine drill bit on a cordless,,

lift the boot lid up to chest hieght (stops you getting back ache if nothing else) and drill 5 or 6 holes around the screw untill you have pearsed the lenses,

gently tap a fine flat blade electrical driver in through one of the wholes to the inner side of the screw as this part is hollow,,

put your hand over the cover and gently pry the lense, which will pop off easy peasy and drop into your hand,, this is what you will be left with below
lucypics008-1.jpg


as seen in the picture,, use a small electrical screw driver to remove the old weak bit of lense from around the screw,, both mine popped off by wigglening the driver in a circular motion!!!

then simply use some small pump grips,, as seen below,, or long nose pliers to release the screw
lucypics009.jpg


insert the new led and lense and screw the badboy down,, hey presto,,, job done!
lucypics007-1.jpg


and heres what you should be left with if you take your time
lucypics012.jpg


fair enough,, not as easy as just unscrewing the ****** thing,, but saves all the hassle of taking the unit apart and/or even buying a new one!

ps,, sorry for the poor quality pics,, had to use my phone !

Thanks for the advice guys! Decided to tackle this at the weekend, just ended up replace the lens covers. Followed the above steps but removed the unit and had no issues! Cheers
 
I could do with an online heads up on which screws to buy to replace for the lens?

anyone got a link of what to buy?

Stainless Steel A2 screws (M3 x 12mm Cap Head)
Ebay is an easy option to purchase or go to a Fastenings Trade counter.
 
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Just check the measurements and must have typed it in wrong originally and in Post #5.
Thread length from bottom of screw head is 12mm which would suggest screw size is M3 x12mm - changed in post above.
The total length of the screw from top of head to bottom of thread is 15mm.

Hope this clarifies the correct size and sorry for wrong info in Post #5.
:keule: