Another hybrid conversion thread....

I know that mate, i mean the code's, theirs loads, i.e. code 6097, code 1283 etc.
 
Thanks paul, yeah i know that, it was just the 2667 part i needed to know.
 
The "code" is the supplier s number, the plugs are just as listed.

I use the Eks too as they are twin electrode so don't need gapping.
Copper all the way for me as they handle the heat better but last less time. I just change every other oil change
 
Byzan A4 said:
The "code" is the supplier s number, the plugs are just as listed.

I use the Eks too as they are twin electrode so don't need gapping.
Copper all the way for me as they handle the heat better but last less time. I just change every other oil change
Click to expand...

Every oil change for me, but then again, I don't run iridium plugs.

My problem looks to be a coil anyway to be honest, a pain, but there we go, what can you do?

Ordered all the gear for doing the manifold today - and two coils as well. With ECP's 20% discount offer came to £109 for the lot.

Ordered:

Head Gasket, Head bolts, Exhaust Mani gasket, Sump plug, Inlet mani gasket, Coils x 2. Already have a belt at home so we're laughing.

Anything else I need I shall get from Bill. :thumbsup:
 
I have also decided that the time has come to change my oil pickup pipe inside the sump... Top end is beginning to get a bit rattly, and I suspect that this is the likely cause.
 
audi upgrades
Welly said:
I have also decided that the time has come to change my oil pickup pipe inside the sump... Top end is beginning to get a bit rattly, and I suspect that this is the likely cause.
Click to expand...

Have you done the oil pump, tired oil pumps can also cause noisey tappets. Might aswell change it whilst the sumps off " would be rude not to" :)
 
sandip said:
Have you done the oil pump, tired oil pumps can also cause noisey tappets. Might aswell change it whilst the sumps off " would be rude not to" :)
Click to expand...

Going to change the pickup out and then test the oil pressure afterwards. If needs be then I will drop the sump back off and do the pump.

Its £80 I haven't got really as taking the head back off as well and the associated costs with doing that, plus an extremely expensive engagement party, mean I can't do everything annoyingly.
 
OK, change of plan.

Bit concerned about this whole thing so I am going to take it off the road tonight and use the woman's car to get to work for the rest of the week, and anywhere else I need to go.

Going to start taking it apart tonight I think, as want to see what's what when I lift the lid off.

My FPR pipe had a colossal split in it when I looked yesterday, and so I want to make sure all is OK piston and valve wise.

And so it begins again.

A bit more in depth this time though as I will be having a good look up into the block whilst the sump is off...

Will take photos tonight.
 
Welly said:
OK, change of plan.

Bit concerned about this whole thing so I am going to take it off the road tonight and use the woman's car to get to work for the rest of the week, and anywhere else I need to go.

Going to start taking it apart tonight I think, as want to see what's what when I lift the lid off.

My FPR pipe had a colossal split in it when I looked yesterday, and so I want to make sure all is OK piston and valve wise.

And so it begins again.

A bit more in depth this time though as I will be having a good look up into the block whilst the sump is off...

Will take photos tonight.
Click to expand...

Hope the pistons/valves are ok Welly, just when you think everything is going well something else happens!

Bit off topic but is it easy/possible to put a knock sensor on the 1.8t's
 
sandip said:
Hope the pistons/valves are ok Welly, just when you think everything is going well something else happens!

Bit off topic but is it easy/possible to put a knock sensor on the 1.8t's
Click to expand...

Yeah, not a hard job at all dude. They are right on the front of the block. When replacing make sure that you do them up to the correct torque - 20nm I think, but best to check.
 
Adding to the previous, this is the last time I want to take this damn head off.

First time this year, but 6 times last year. I've had enough.
 
badger5 said:
AEM one is..
weld an additional lambda bung in DP and wire it in

I am not a fan of digital boost guages.. they constantly flick between digits.. give me good old analogue any day for boost
Click to expand...

Welly > sorry for drifting off topic and going on about gauges

Bill > I like analogue too to be honest, can you get any other boost/afr gauges? Ideally afr digital, boost analogue:) I've got 1 pod in the vent and i'm not a fan of having gauges on the pillar
 
Are you still off work this week then fella? Shame about the problems, but mate, a Welly thread wouldn't be the same without them!

Still a cracking read - really tempts me into stage 2+ at Awesome/Bills :(
 
Just to let you know you can get oil pumps for £55 from GSF, changed mine a little while ago.
 
Part numbers :

oil pump
06A115105b - ~ £120

oil pick-up
06a115251 ~ £9.14

oil pick-up o-ring
n0282222 ~ £3.53
 
Useful post, cheers dude. Pickup already ordered though, should be in today.

Last night went OK - I couldn't really be ***** to be fair (not a good day at work), was feeling a bit lazy and had a laptop and a PC to look at and sort out as well.

Got everything off anyway, only spent about an hour working on the car. Head is ready to unbolt, as is the manifold, so 13 bolts remain for head removal.

Sadly, I broke my breaker bar (no pun intended) last night so I couldn't actually unbolt it. Mainly the reason I went in...

Won't have time for it tonight, or Friday night now, so will crack on on Saturday day time, amongst paternal duties and get the little ****** off so I can have a lookie.

I'm still working this week which is a pain, work really gets in the way of other stuff.

Got the missus' 206 1.9 non turbo to potter around in for the rest of the week. It actual is the slowest car on earth, nearly died this morning on the motorway pulling into the fast lane, put my foot down, and nothing happened.... :scared2:

Also selected a non existent 6th during my trip to work, which is also known as reverse... Not a good noise - I may not mention that....:think:
 
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audi upgrades
I've done the "where's sixth????" in mum's before, luckily reverse is up and left!

Although remember going to the Lakes for a weekend in October, driving mum's as it's an estate. Went the wrong way, did a U Turn in the middle of a quiet, dark country road, couldn't find reverse!!!!!! Had to switch the interior light on and by that time three cars were beeping at me asking why I was in the middle of a dark road!!!!!! :scared2:
 
i know I went for 7th once when I hit the limiter in 6th in ickle ibiza a few years ago playing with superbikes on an early sunday morning
 
OK, the lid is off the engine.

And all looks OK to be fair. Pistons have no DET marks. Head looks fine with no signs of too much heat, and no cracking etc.

Did come across a bit of a problem with the turbo - manifold bolts though. Two of them had basically welded themselves to the manifold. First off, the wouldn't undo, and ended up snapping leaving two studs sticking out of the turbo. ****. Then, I couldn't even get the head off, as the manifold 'studs' were hanging on grimly to the manifold itself...

So that had got a bit hot then.

Anyway, a bit of brute force sorted that out... :eyebrows:

The manifold is shagged basically. It is now very badly out of shape at the flange, to the point that I had to prise it off the head in the end. It's cracked all over the shop and has clearly been blowing like crazy as there is carbon residue everywhere.

I'll take pictures of it tonight/tomorrow when I have 5 mins.

The XS mani has required a bit more work on the flange holes to get it to fit at it's best. Also came across something I hadn't thought of before, the charge pipe support/heat shield which bolts on to the back of the head. This will, realistically, need to be cut in half to leave the bit that holds the charge pipe support.

Having popped the XS mani onto the turbo to mock up, the fitment looks like it will be very handy actually. I've removed the rear heatshield to give more room in the back of the engine bay, and as long as I move the brake servo pipe (replace with silicone as it's split) out of the way, there shouldn't be any contact issues with the bulkhead. Nothing else there to damage or heat up. Brake lines run a little below, but not in line for trouble...

So, the job continues...
 
DaveA3 said:
what happened to ur HD movie excitement lol
Click to expand...

lol, the problem is that it's dark at night when I am doing stuff normally. The phone camera doesn't have a flash at all, and the camera, even with the flash, doesn't take good pics at night. I normally try to take them in the daytime - annoyingly, work gets in the way.
 
Welly said:
I'll take some I promise. Been a bit lazy with the camera lately...
Click to expand...

pictures-or-it-didnt-happen-brah.jpg



In all seriousness though, are you doing the pickup pipe?
 
OK progress for this evening... Didn't do too much as have been hung over, and have tomorrow afternoon, and daylight to crack on which will be nice.

Anyway, started off the evening with relooming the WMI pump and all associated bits n bobs.

96.jpg


Sadly, the Devils Own controller I have here isn't working, even after I soldered it all up inside and repaired it, which is disappointing. But there we go, not the end of the world. So I'm stuck using the pressure switch that comes with the kit. I guess that will have to do for now.

Anyway, then I attacked the ****** studs stuck in the turbo. Got both of them out eventually - lots of WD40 and my braker bar seemed to do the trick.

Then would the K03 turbo downpipe studs into the turbo:

97.jpg


98.jpg


Look good, fit nicely, just the right size for the manifold. Pleased.

In all fairness though, I did at this point test fit the manifold to the turbo - and realised how hard it will be to fit with the head on. Not going to be an easy job. At all.

Other issues include space, and the risk of damaging other things like the brake servo pipe. I have decided to modify the bulkhead heat shield to give enough room for the manifold, whilst still protecting all of the braking equipment.

Took a little while and a trimming with some tin snips, however managed to get it to fit the way I want. Will take photos of this tomorrow.

Engine is looking good considering the beating it gets - bless it. Exhaust valves look like might have seen a little heat - however there are no cracks which is good.

100.jpg


102.jpg


Have also tonight fitted the manifold to the head. Again, not the easiest of jobs, as you have to wind the nuts on to two of the studs whilst lowering the manifold down.

Anyway, fits like a glove after Bill's slight mod (thanks Bill :thumbsup:) to make runner 1 fit a bit nicer around the head - see below:

101.jpg


Really pleased with how well it's bolted up I must admit...

103.jpg


104.jpg


Going to swap out the belt tomorrow and reset the tensioner damper, then will be looking to put the head back on... Maybe tomorrow if I get a wiggle on...
 
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